Transfer Advice...pnp, photo paper, magazine paper..other?

[Earthscum]

A good reason to use thicker paper is that it will push into inconsistent surfaces better. That's all.

Up until recently I would just screenprint with lacquer and I could wipe it off with denatured alcohol. The last board I made was a simple clean booster with MPF102. I just used a sharpie, using perf board to mark my holes. It ended up being a pretty decent board. Since I'm not a screen printer anymore, I'm probably going to move over to the transfer method. I've tried some stuff made just for transferring laser print to materials, and it worked ok (similar to PNP), but I had issues with boxes that weren't perfectly level. I like the look of a raw box with etch or screen print.

[Canucker]

I'm thinking a big part of peoples preferences comes from what kind/quality of printer ink they are using.. When I read about prepping boards and doing decals I always read the word "laser printer"...mine is an ink jet and until I started using the photo copier with my press n peel blue I didn't have one good etch with my printer....to the point where I just took a black marker and drew out some really ugly layouts on to the boards....lengthy process for ugly results.... it even took a few different black markers before I found one that worked well. Glad those days are behind me.

[Labaris]

By the way.. there is this stuff, transparent laser jet paper... No fibers in it at all. I think you can iron it but you would probably have to put a piece of regular paper over the iron side so it wouldn't melt onto the iron... It's high temp to withstand the fuser heat but I don't know about prolonged periods under a clothes iron? The toner comes off of it fairly easy so I would imagine it would transfer well onto copper or an enclosure.

I have some, I may mess with it and see if I get time.

Do whatever Rob is doing!!! His stuff looks FANTASTIC!!!

Waiting for the results 

[J0K3RX]

By the way.. there is this stuff, transparent laser jet paper... No fibers in it at all. I think you can iron it but you would probably have to put a piece of regular paper over the iron side so it wouldn't melt onto the iron... It's high temp to withstand the fuser heat but I don't know about prolonged periods under a clothes iron? The toner comes off of it fairly easy so I would imagine it would transfer well onto copper or an enclosure.

I have some, I may mess with it and see if I get time.

Do whatever Rob is doing!!! His stuff looks FANTASTIC!!!

Waiting for the results  

the stuff I have is kinda like this stuff...
http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/542290/Apollo-Laser-Printer-Transparency-Film-8/#firstTab

http://www.mybinding.com/apollo-laser-printer-transparency-film-50pk.html

[pakrat]

I also use photo paper for etching boxes, but I use thick, glossy magazine paper and a laminator for pcbs... 3 passes and it's done. I guess the best method is whatever works for you.

Probably a silly question by why the preference for thicker paper?
I just tried using birthday wrapping paper (which was pretty thin)  as opposed to magazine paper....it got all of the details but I was etching a piece of artwork into steel as opposed to copper or aluminum....steel its more difficult because its so hard...so the results weren't all that great but for copper or aluminum I think it would have been ok.

I wouldn't say I have a preference for the thicker paper, but I get a monthly specials flyer from one of my distributors for work and the paper is perfect for etching. It just happens to be thicker than standard magazine paper and isn't super glossy. To be honest, I don't think the paper has as much bearing on a successful transfer as does the box itself. I have several different brand enclosures that "like" a certain method. Some only like glossy photo paper, some only pnp. Maybe it has to do with the oil content in the casting process?
+1 on the dollar store photo gloss paper, that's what I use too and it works great.

[deadastronaut]

^ yep, ive said it before, but eddystones are a different animal compared to hammonds...

hammonds are a lot harder to sand, i tried an NSC  box too,(the competition box, that were still waiting to see btw ) and that was an utter soab to sand...stay away..unless you want one big arm..

eddystones are like butter compared...i stick with those. and glossy 150gsm.


@canuker: you can get a laser printer for £50-80. with toner...the mad thing is a new' genuine'  toner cartridge will cost roughly the same

but on the plus side , will last a few years....

[haveyouseenhim]

I use the pages of Taylor Guitars magazine called 'Wood and Steel' with a laser printer I found in a dumpster and ferric chloride. I get results like this...

[deadastronaut]

looks terrible...

[haveyouseenhim]

looks terrible...

Yea, I was just showing people what not to do. I'm a total failure

[Perrow]

Inkjet on transparency, home made UV box (1W led in a metal candy box with a LM317 as a current regulator), developed in caustic soda, etched in NaOH.

Transparencies are re-usable, no prepping the board*, no scrubbing residue off the board, no iron to heat. 4 to 5 min exposure, 1 to 3 min developing depending on how fresh the solution is, a quick cleaning in water and you can drop in into the etch.

My next refinement of my method will be buying another 1W UV led (~$5) to cut the exposure time in half. Not that I can't wait 5 mins' for the exposure (I etch about one or two boards a month) but just because I can, might even go to three leds while I'm at it

* Other than cutting it and sanding the edges but that's no different than any other method.

[gjcamann]

Could someone recommend where/what to buy for supplies for PE and/or PnP? What's working best for you guys and where do you buy it? I live in the US. Thanx.

[Labaris]

Inkjet on transparency, home made UV box (1W led in a metal candy box with a LM317 as a current regulator), developed in caustic soda, etched in NaOH.

Transparencies are re-usable, no prepping the board*, no scrubbing residue off the board, no iron to heat. 4 to 5 min exposure, 1 to 3 min developing depending on how fresh the solution is, a quick cleaning in water and you can drop in into the etch.

My next refinement of my method will be buying another 1W UV led (~$5) to cut the exposure time in half. Not that I can't wait 5 mins' for the exposure (I etch about one or two boards a month) but just because I can, might even go to three leds while I'm at it

* Other than cutting it and sanding the edges but that's no different than any other method.

Great board!! Not just the etching but also the tracing. Which software you use?
So, it's clear form that Positive Photo Resist PCB is the way to go... Could you share your design of UV box? Thanks

[jmwreck]

this is the paper that I've been using, it works 100% accurate for me, ebay link, anyone tried this yet?

[haveyouseenhim]

this is the paper that I've been using, it works 100% accurate for me, ebay link, anyone tried this yet?

I'm going to find out. Bout to order some.

EDIT.   nevermind........I just read the sellers feedback comments.

[Labaris]

this is the paper that I've been using, it works 100% accurate for me, ebay link, anyone tried this yet?

Does it leave residue on the copper or aluminium?

[artifus]

is it not about substrate and toner rather than paper thickness? though earthscum has a point about inconsistent surfaces, though this would be more relevant to box etch i guess? does anyone know what materials are generally used to coat paper with? anything to look for on the blurb? different chemicals would have different properties, ie reaction to heat. would be interesting to know.

new to toner transfer having recently acquired a laser printer. still a little nervy with it so have been wary with media. yet to try magazine paper even. some success so far. experimented a little with uv without much success last year before the inkjet died, may try again sometime since i've made the light box, but will stick to transfer for now having picked up a little a6 laminator for pennies in a junk shop which works quite well - less effort than ironing anyhow.

so  in no particular order and aside from commercial offerings, for laser toner transfer media recommendations we have:

glossy magazine paper
glossy inkjet photo paper

have also heard of folk using and/or have contemplated trying:

laser transparancy
parchment / greaseproof / baking / sandwich paper or whatever it's called where you are.
vinyl eg: http://www.instructables.com/id/Vinyl-Sticker-PCB-How-To/?ALLSTEPS - not what i was thinking of but googles first offering.
laminator pouch / laminated paper (would worry about glue on printer rollers?)

have i missed any? any to add?

[Perrow]

Great board!! Not just the etching but also the tracing. Which software you use?
So, it's clear form that Positive Photo Resist PCB is the way to go... Could you share your design of UV box? Thanks

That'll be DIYLC done the curvy style.

Whipped up a wiki page about the UV Box.

[davent]

Great board!! Not just the etching but also the tracing. Which software you use?
So, it's clear form that Positive Photo Resist PCB is the way to go... Could you share your design of UV box? Thanks

That'll be DIYLC done the curvy style.

Whipped up a wiki page about the UV Box.

I've never had any issues just using regular fluorescent tubes/bulbs to expose the boards. Does take a longer exposure ~9min and needs to be close to the tubes,  1"/2.5cm, but really couldn't be simpler.

dave

[artifus]

had loads of issues last year, mostly due to ignorance, no doubt. that and cheap sh!t. made a couple of light boxes. tried daylight bulbs and various other uv sources before settling on leds but was still not happy. laser transfer has been least hassle/best results so far but plan to return to uv when time allows.

oh, the irony - i made pcb's for my light box with photocopies and clothes iron:
timerpcb
ledpcb

[Labaris]

^ yep, ive said it before, but eddystones are a different animal compared to hammonds...

hammonds are a lot harder to sand, i tried an NSC  box too,(the competition box, that were still waiting to see btw ) and that was an utter soab to sand...stay away..unless you want one big arm..

eddystones are like butter compared...i stick with those. and glossy 150gsm.

What's the difference between Hammond and Eddystone? Hammond purchased Eddystone in 1998. See this link
Are there two different types of boxes made by the same manufacturer (Hammond)?