Wedgies Anyone? A 1590B tutorial

Started by Cozybuilder, April 03, 2015, 06:34:31 PM

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Cozybuilder

I really like the Hammond style aluminum enclosures, and also the wedge shaped boxes, so decided to make my own wedgie.

The 1590B is a great box, has plenty of room for a huge variety of pedal circuitry, so this is what I came up with.


1: Mark out the cut lines, I used 0.45" from the face on one end, and across the top 2.15" from the end, then drew the lines. You should also draw a line 0.1" down from the face.

2: For this prototype, I simply used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Cut the two lines along the side, (0.1" down, and the angle cut).





3: Next cut along the top line and remove the piece. You should sand the side and top cuts with course sand paper on a block, to obtain a good fit. It should look like this:





4: Now mix up a small batch of JB Weld- this takes about a day to cure, is super strong, and is machinable.



5: Put a decent coating on one side of the cut, and join the pieces. Use regular masking tape to hold them in alignment. Then place a strip of masking tape across the seam on the inside to form a barrier. Oddly enough, it releases from the cured epoxy. Then fill the gaping hole on top and set aside to cure. You can speed this process up quite a bit by placing in an insulated box (old stove or refrigerator is great, styrofoam cooler is fine) along with a 60W incandescent lightbulb. Tip- works great for curing primer and paint too.



6: Sand the surfaces with medium sandpaper on a block (150 grit):



7: Hopefully there won't be any voids, but if so just fill them with a little JB Weld and repeat step 6. Now go over the whole box with 220 grit (on a block), until you're happy with it:



8: Now up to the spray booth and dust it with primer and set aside to dry, sand with 320 grit



Voila- wedgies for everyone!

Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

vigilante397

THIS IS THE GREATEST THREAD EVER OH MY GOODNESS.

Sorry, I excite easily :icon_redface: Legitimately cool though. 8)
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canman

That's awesome!!

So...how does the JB Weld hold up if you bake on paint?  I'd hate for everything to fall apart whilst baking...haha...

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt

Russ this is an excellent tutorial ! Thank you for the write up and as always great work!

The JB weld will hold up to baking quite well.  It can withstand 500 degrees f. Use the grey stuff not that newer formula

thomasha

Nice work!

That's a nice tutorial!

I saw some pedals like these and always wondered if it would work and look nice, and you made it.

know I need to try it with another wah pedal!





vigilante397

Quote from: canman on April 03, 2015, 07:12:10 PM
So...how does the JB Weld hold up if you bake on paint?  I'd hate for everything to fall apart whilst baking...haha...

I've used JB Weld to patch holes in enclosures before painting and baking, and if it cures fully before baking it holds up just fine (my usual bake cycle is 10-15 minutes at 300 fahrenheit).
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"Some people love music the way other people love chocolate. Some of us love music the way other people love oxygen."

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Cozybuilder

Thanks guys, this was the first time I've started a thread.

@thomasha- your work is truly amazing, you're an inspiration. Now I want a mini-wah  :icon_biggrin:
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

canman

Quote from: vigilante397 on April 03, 2015, 07:39:47 PM
Quote from: canman on April 03, 2015, 07:12:10 PM
So...how does the JB Weld hold up if you bake on paint?  I'd hate for everything to fall apart whilst baking...haha...

I've used JB Weld to patch holes in enclosures before painting and baking, and if it cures fully before baking it holds up just fine (my usual bake cycle is 10-15 minutes at 300 fahrenheit).

Wow 300 fahrenheit?  If I go much over 160 I get smoke marks on my paint...maybe something is wrong with my oven..?

LiLFX

That's a big nope. I love it, but I'm a lazy sack.

vigilante397

Quote from: canman on April 03, 2015, 08:23:44 PM
Wow 300 fahrenheit?  If I go much over 160 I get smoke marks on my paint...maybe something is wrong with my oven..?

Hmm, that's a little weird. The only time I've ever had smoke was when I didn't let the paint dry all the way before baking. So definitely let the paint dry, but after that it should be fine even higher than that.

I don't actually remember why I chose that temperature, pretty sure someone recommended it on one of the many spray paint tips threads on here. Best lessons I ever learned were:

1) proper surface prep
2) Rustoleum self-etching primer
3) Rustoleum paint (though I have had good results with Krylon as well when 1, 2 and 4 were used)
4) Toaster oven
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www.sushiboxfx.com

davent

Ingenious! People are always looking for that shape of enclosure and you've just made them available to anyone willing to put in the time, beautiful!
dave
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canman

Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha.  I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch.  So I may have to let it dry and try it that way.  How long do you let it dry?  The full 24 hours?

Back on topic...did you start the cuts from the end of the box or up there towards the face of the box, where the cut gets shallow?  (If that makes sense)

canman

Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:33:23 AM
Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha.  I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch.  So I may have to let it dry and try it that way.  How long do you let it dry?  The full 24 hours?  And...is it rock hard after you bake it at 300 for 15 mins?

Back on topic...did you start the cuts from the end of the box or up there towards the face of the box, where the cut gets shallow?  (If that makes sense)

Cozybuilder

I started at the end, but really it doesn't matter. If you have access to a bandsaw it would take 2 minutes tops. Try the lightbulb in a box solution for a curing oven- it really works. Cuts the time down to about 4 hours for the epoxy, Rustoleum, ....
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

bloxstompboxes

Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:34:05 AM
Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:33:23 AM
Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha.  I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch.  So I may have to let it dry and try it that way.  How long do you let it dry?  The full 24 hours?  And...is it rock hard after you bake it at 300 for 15 mins?

Back on topic...did you start the cuts from the end of the box or up there towards the face of the box, where the cut gets shallow?  (If that makes sense)

I have been following beavisaudio's guide to toaster oven paint drying and, if I remember correctly, he says to throw it in the oven just after spraying. That is the way I have been doing it but I have noticed a few things. I do my baking outside and when it is cold, it seems it takes the oven longer to heat up than if it is warmer outside, obviously. So what I am thinking is that the temperature sensor, whatever it uses, is taking more time than necessary to detect that the oven chamber is at the selected temperature when it is actually much higher. That overly high temperature is causing the smoke, and if the chamber gets too hot like mine did before, then you get smoke or even fire!

I have since tried setting the temp lower and then waiting a cycle on the heating elements before raising the temp. I have also just done a preheat at the regular temp and then throwing the enclosure in. Both ways have worked and I believe that it is because the temp sensor has now been able to read the correct temp and the chamber is nolonger too hot.

Either way, letting the enclosure sit for a couple minutes for the paint vapors to evaporate is a good practice too. I don't think you should have to wait for it to dry before tossing in the enclosure. Kind of defeats the purpose of the toaster other than to completely cure the paint. Of course you want a nice ventilated area as well.

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Mark Hammer

Um, not to be a party-pooper, but one normally has only modest clearance for a 3PDT contacts in a 1590B.  With the wedge, do you have enough room?  Is it simply a matter of eliminating the inside nut?

But it does look gorgeous, I have to say.  Well done.

deadastronaut

+1 looks great russ..nice work. 8)

but like mark said , 3pdt room enough?..

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chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

armdnrdy

#17
One could use these:

http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/#!/Low-Profile-3PDT-Footswitch-Latched-Solder-Lugs/p/33283018/category=5027572

Regular 3PDT: 21mm (from top of switch body to bottom of pins.)

Low profile: 16.4mm
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

deadastronaut

https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

armdnrdy

Quote from: deadastronaut on April 04, 2015, 11:58:45 AM
^ ooh...they look nice.. 8)

I've been designing builds more and more with these switches lately.

The solder pin and board mount.
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)