Vero off board wiring

Started by stodd420, July 13, 2015, 03:49:05 PM

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stodd420

Hi,

Has anyone got any good tutorials etc. for off board wiring on vero builds?

Going to build a DAM meathead.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/dam-meathead.html#comment-form

Thanks

Elijah-Baley

«There is something even higher than the justice which you have been filled with. There is a human impulse known as mercy, a human act known as forgiveness.»
Elijah Baley in Isaac Asimov's The Cave Of Steel

stodd420

I am relatively new to this whole thing, It will be my first vero build however I have made some fuzz kits and a delay kit before.

Now I now want to try something new. 

Should I use that off board wiring diagram in the link for the DAM meathead?

Thanks.


stodd420

Where does the negative of the 9v go?

Rookie questions.

mcknib

#4
The negative or ground goes to the largest lug on your DC jack (bottom in the pic.), top small lug for the board +9v and the middle one for the battery snap +9v with the battery snap negative or ground going to the ring lug on the stereo IN jack ( if you're including battery power as well. )

If you're not including a battery snap just ignore the middle DC jack lug and use mono jacks for IN and OUT. You only need a stereo 'switching' jack for the IN socket if using a battery snap.

Like so:


stodd420

#5
Thanks - Very helpful.

Does the ground from the pot also go to the same place as the board ground?

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/dam-meathead.html#comment-form

LightSoundGeometry

#6
Quote from: stodd420 on July 13, 2015, 06:48:42 PM
Thanks - Very helpful.

Does the ground from the pot also go to the same place as the board ground?

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/dam-meathead.html#comment-form

I am in the belief you can ground anything as long as its at a grounding point ..most people make the star ground point at the input or output jacks because it has a large hole to accept the ground leads - so no, I would ground it to the jack ground and not the DC input ..dont want a large glob of wires or heat installing it on a critical point like a DC jack ..in my opinion only

mcknib

#7
As LSG says you don't want blobs of solder anywhere - if you're using this vero layout there looks to be no breaks in the track near the ground wire so you could use the holes to the left of it to ground your pot and another to the out jack ground lug and star ground from there across to the IN jack to the 3pdt ground lug 5 you could then just solder your LED negative leg straight to lug 4 as shown below (ignore the purple and red throw 1 & 2 lines it was done for something else.) as long as it's all grounded it'll be fine.





LightSoundGeometry

hey, what is that connection between 1 & 6 on the bypass switch ? are you pointing to lug 5 & 6 as ground spots on the 3pdt switch ?

mcknib

#9
Lug 1 input is grounded in bypass mode via lug 6 basically grounded input I just didn't edit it out

Lug 5 is connected to ground on the common middle row when it's in effects mode common row is thrown onto effects row lugs 1 board in lug 4 LED cathode and lug 7 board out are connected to the common lugs
2 in jack tip 5 ground and 8 out jack tip lighting the LED and connecting your jacks to the effect circuit as shown by the purple lines (throw 1 here).

Thrown the other way ( red lines throw 2.) lugs 2,5 and 8 are connected to 3, 6 and 9 or input jack straight to output jack bypassing the circuit via the linked lugs 3 and 9 and LED ground is broken so it goes out (lug 6 connected to lug 1 would then be grounded by lug 5) 

Some people ground the in and out or both I don't with filtering and pulldown resistors in the circuits I make to stop popping, power supply noise etc as far as I know grounding the input / output is supposed to help cut down any unwanted noise.

mcknib

#10
Here's another wee bit of wiring from the same PDF I was working on which might be of interest this time using lug 6 as a ground for a common anode bi colour LED I use them quite a lot for a an instant visual indication that my pedals are all powered / bypassed (red) or in effects mode (green) obviously you can use whatever colours you like.



I use one of these cheap coin cell batteries to quickly check which cathode is green and which is red - obviously putting the middle leg to the + side and touching the cathodes with the other side then I put a dot on the LED red side. Handy for checking LED's in general I don't know about you but I mix my colours up a lot.