best way to fix and mount a PCB on a hammond box?

[mongo]

I'd  really like to hear what people here in the forum do once the PCB is ready, how do you fix it into the hammond box for instance?

 Maybe there are some answers in the archives but I can't come up with something specific.


 what are the good techniques? and the  safer ones?

Thanx!

Andy

[Samuel]

i know alot of people use the adhesive board standoffs that smallbearelec.com sells. Personally i use little adhesive plastic things designed to hold cable ties, then i just cable tie the board in there.

alot of people use metal standoffs that take a screw - then they just epoxy (or use JB Weld) to hold the standoff to the inside of the case. This is probably the easiest method for removing the board later, for repair, etc.

[dr]

....If I can, I try to incorporate the pots and switches to the pcb,then mount to the inside top of the box-if that's not possible, I mount the pcb on standoffs (plastic) to the bottom lid of the box;wire the pots and switches to a harness and use 15-25 pin DB connectors or header pins to header connectors to connect the harness to the pcb....and sometimes I just search for a large enough box and cram it in wrapped in packing foam....I wish they made wire with adhesive on the coating-that would make it easier.....

[Skreddy]

My personal favorites:

#1 Use board-mounted pots (like the old Big Muff Pi's).  This eliminates the problem of how to mount the board plus cuts down on off-board wiring and as a result cuts noise and build time too.

#2 Cut a piece of aluminum angle stock, maybe 1/2" x 3/4" x 1 1/2" long, drill and tap holes into it & drill holes through the PCB edge/ground plane for mounting the board, drill holes through the wall of the Hammond box for mounting the angle stock/board to the box.  A lot of work, but neat result.

#3 Drill and tap holes into the case and use the brass standoffs that screw into the mounting surface.  A machine screw mounts the PCB to the standoff.  No wimpy adhesive.  Down side: this generally affects the face of the pedal, but with planning you can place the standoffs where they won't hurt your design

[Samuel]

respect to the standoffs mounted through the box design, but with a proper JB Welding those things ain't goin nowhere...

[Fret Wire]

#3 Drill and tap holes into the case and use the brass standoffs that screw into the mounting surface.  A machine screw mounts the PCB to the standoff.  No wimpy adhesive.  Down side: this generally affects the face of the pedal, but with planning you can place the standoffs where they won't hurt your design

You can do the above, and use JB Weld as a "lock tight" with standoffs that are screwed into the case. The file the protruding threads flush with the face, sand, and finish as normal. JB Weld is no wimpy adhesive. Method #3 allows the board to be mounted over all the off board components, giving you maximum board space.

There's also the method of adhesive pads on the back of panal-mounted pots to hold the board. Pretty reliable method, if you use decent pads. I use that alot. Saves space on the board that pots would take up.

PCB mounted pots are nice, but in small boxes like the 1590b, they eat up a lot of board real estate. Depending on the ckt, you may not have enough room for panel mounted jacks and switches. You could use pcb mounted jacks and switches (mxr), but the most desireable jacks and switches (3pdt) are still panel mount design.

Don't forget, MXR left the board loose and wrapped it with foam. Plenty of those still working today. Boss leaves theirs loose and insulates it with a plastic sheet.

[KORGULL]

I used the JB weld and metal stand-offs method when I wanted to raise the board over the pots.
I also have used sticky- back velcro strips to mount the board directly to the bottom of the enclosure. I first lined the box with electrical tape under the board to be extra sure nothing can short out.

[guitarhacknoise]

shit!
just use solid core wire and let the pcb float in the box, maybe a little gasket material to cover any trouble spots and blam................I mean how many times are you gonna need to go back in there ?
-matthias

[Skreddy]

I mean how many times are you gonna need to go back in there ?

Famous last words...   :twisted:

[MartyMart]

I've used those sticky plastic stand offs with good result, mostly just leave the board "floating" or tucked under the switch, short wiring and a through box LED seems to hold it all steady.
I line the box floor and lid with sticky clear plastic, about 1mm thick.

Marty.

[birt]

my enclosures are usually filled to the edge so that board isn't going anywhere
otherwise i use some epoxy

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

When there are a lot of PCB mounted  pots & sockets & the board is very light, I use the pots & sockets to hold on the board. Otherwise, formy commercial stuff, the posts are put in at the factory.
For one-offs, I use the adhesive standoffs. I'm astonished at how good they are (OK, 3M the company are pricks.. but their adhesives are good).