instruction: how to ransform a schematic into a veroboard?

[barret77]

Hello all

I'm trying to create a veroboard from the MXR Microamp schematic, but I'm very, very, very beginner, and I've been spending hours in non-efficient layouts.

Is there a general instruction on how to proceed when creating a vero layout? Where to start? things to look for? Any hints or tips?

(or sure, more easy: any link with a vero/perf of that pedal?    )

Thanks!

[MartyMart]

Hi,
I think that I'm on my 30th/40th veroboard build now and about 25 of those have been "laid out" by myself.
I'm no expert, but here's how I do it :

Oh, first off go to my "marty's layout lounge" and look at a couple of my
layouts, also Dragonfly's gallery has an MXR Dist + which is quite close to
the micro amp .....

I follow the schematic through, from input to output, looking at the "flow"
through all the components and try to "visualize" that as a small circuit.
My layouts usually follow this "schematic flow" which sometimes makes
things a little large ! but I'm getting better at shrinking them down now.
Torchy - who used to post here, was fantastic at layouts, he would
"twist" the circuit flow around, so that it was much more compact, but all
the "nodes" or inter-connections all made sense .
I would pay attention to a few layouts, inparticular the ones with op-amps
to get a feel for how they are laid out on vero.
So long as you take your time, and make all the connections and "cuts"
correctly, you should have no problems.
It takes 4-5 to get comfortable ....

Cheers,
Marty.

[StephenGiles]

Make that 40-50 to get comfortable, I've been using veroboard since 1975 or so and believe me it takes time. To start with, forget tiny boxes bcause it makes the boards very dificult to trouble shoot, next - mark all copper track cuts on the component side with a marking pen so you know where they are. The best thing I find about veroboard is that you are in command, and you can make your own rules up as you go along. My first ADA flanger was built on a board roughly 11" long in order to provide plenty of space, then my second was made on a piece 41/2" long.
Stephen

[petemoore]

I'd have to redraft, and try different layouts to find the one that's most optimal, even then I might not find it...might have to redraft again a few times for that.
 Of the Vero's I've seen, a decent percentage of them could fairly easily be made a touch or two smaller...just by 'tightening loose areas', but using the same basic topology/map.
 Drafted, posted layouts made from the same schematic by different people differ in size / shape...to find the absolute the smallest size or most workable layout you'll have to think like everybody.
 How it fits in the box with the pots etc. may be something to think about before drafting.

[MartyMart]

OK, maybe more than 5 to get comfortable/confident with it !!

I got a bit distracted this morning, so here's a few more "tips"

1- try to keep 9v power and "ground" as far from each other as possible.
With a one op-amp or a two/three transistor build I try and use a strip
that's around 10/12 strips by 15-20 holes.
Top strip is 9v power, bottom strip is Ground.
This should allow you to make easy connections between the two, where
the circuit calls for it.

On bigger builds, you may have to "jumper" power/ground down the
board from time to time.
You may have a piece thats 15-20 strips by 25 - 35 holes !!
Try to think this through, so you can connect things that need either 9v
4.5v or ground together.
As stephen said, building a little "bigger" than perhaps required will make
things much easier to fit, I've been caught out a few times !!

2- Move through the circuit from right to left on the board - input to
output.

3- try if possible, to keep the connections to jacks/pots/switches at the
"edges" of the vero - this is sometimes difficult, but keeps things much
neater.

4 - Use coloured "marker" pens to keep track of the power/ground VB
( 4.5volts ) and in/out/pot connections as its easy to get "lost" in
particular when coming back to a project a few days later.
It may look "childish" but helps a LOT  !!
EG:
Red - power
Pink - 4.5 volts ( VB)
Black - ground
Green - in/out
Blue/purple/yellow - external tone/drive/switch connections

Let us know how you get on with it, or post the layout so it can be checked  

Marty.

[Khas Evets]

For vero, it helps me to start with the opamp and work out from there. I know this is not the usual input to output approach, but since the opamp has a fixed footprint, you have to work within those limitations. Also, I look at the net list to see where there are many connections.

[MartyMart]

For vero, it helps me to start with the opamp and work out from there. I know this is not the usual input to output approach, but since the opamp has a fixed footprint, you have to work within those limitations. Also, I look at the net list to see where there are many connections.

I agree, "positioning" the opamp first is a good idea, leave room for the
connections, but I never "solder it down" 'til I have some components &
jumpers around it  !!

Marty.

[barret77]

wow

thank you guys. There's some serious instruction here.

I guess I really need experience; maybe start by veroboarding a lpb-1 just to learn... I'll try to adapt the mxr distortion by now, since they're really close.
I need to train more these things!

Really thanks

[Khas Evets]

It also helps me to think in terms of nodes rather than components. I know it's obvious, but I'm used to focusing on components and signal flow when looking at a schematic. The vero represents the nodes.

[BigLloyde]

[quote="1- try to keep 9v power and "ground" as far from each other as possible."[/quote]

What is the technical reason for keeping the power and ground as far from each other as possible?  I have built a few where they were on adjacent strips or only seperated by one and had no problems.   Please explain.
Thanks
BigLloyde

[BigLloyde]

"1- try to keep 9v power and "ground" as far from each other as possible."

[/quote]
What is the technical reason for keeping the power and ground as far from each other as possible?  I have built a few where they were on adjacent strips or only seperated by one and had no problems.   Please explain.
Thanks
BigLloyde

AAHHH