Cheap and cheerful labelling

[gez]

I posted something similar to this in a thread a while ago, but in case any of you missed that here's a variation on the theme:



Print your graphics onto an adhesive label, slap it on your box and protect with an acrylic plate secured using the fittings.  Make the label slightly bigger than you need for any edges where the metal is bent (and cut the acrylic slightly smaller to account for the bend), then trim the excess with a scalpel once the plate is secured.

I get the acrylic cut for me at my local plastics shop (costs next to nothing if you buy offcuts). The edges are a little rough (too lazy to sand) but then again, so am I!  Tape the plate to your box and drill the two together so everything matches up on assembling.

Need to get some spray-on fixative to prevent the colour fading/paper yellowing.  Also need to anchor the top corner with a little countersunk bolt (the economy Maplin box is slightly buckled), but it's a cheap and cheerful way of doing labelling in only a few minutes.

You can also use transparent 'window stickers', though air bubbles are sometimes a problem (a lot depends on the box).

[puretube]

[MartyB]

Cool!  Very tasteful Gez.    I don't recognize those switches in the lower right  - footswitches?

[gez]

I don't recognize those switches in the lower right  - footswitches?

Yeah Marty, they're momentary switches from...er, Maplin.  :oops:
One toggles between two LFO settings the other is for bypass (it also kills the LED when the effect is off - the LED is bi-colour).

There's a Maplin 5 mins away from me so it works out cheaper to get some things there (if they stock them that is!).

[Mark Hammer]

Brilliant.  Beautiful.  Elegant.  Durable.

Those considering trying it should just keep in mind that you'll need to have enough thread on the collet/neck of the pot to attach a nut with after it has passed through the chassis AND acrylic AND washer/s.  It can be easily done, just be mindful of the acrylic you buy, the pots you buy, and the chassis you plan to stick them in.

I suppose a side benefit is that the slight give in the acrylic (especially if there is a locking washer involved) will grip the nuts very nicely.  Another is that the increased thickness of the acrylic+chassis brings the control knobs a little closer to the chassis - a cosmetic plus.

[gez]

Those considering trying it should just keep in mind that you'll need to have enough thread on the collet/neck of the pot to attach a nut with after it has passed through the chassis AND acrylic AND washer/s.  It can be easily done, just be mindful of the acrylic you buy, the pots you buy, and the chassis you plan to stick them in..

Good points Mark.  I use 2mm sheet.  It's not a problem with these cheapo boxes, but you do have to watch it with diecast ones (there's just enough clearance with the ones I use).  

The shop I get the acrylic from are able to cut it with bevelled edges too, which would look a lot better, but they don't recommend it for 2mm (needs to be thicker, or so they say).  They also sell a whole range of coloured acrylic which is cool stuff.  The best looking is black, but not too good for seeing what everything is (a minor detail)!  

I suppose a side benefit is that the slight give in the acrylic (especially if there is a locking washer involved) will grip the nuts very nicely.  Another is that the increased thickness of the acrylic+chassis brings the control knobs a little closer to the chassis - a cosmetic plus

Right on both counts.  I've been using this method for quite a while now and so far everything is holding up nicely.

Thanks for the kind words Mark (and everyone else).  :oops:

[StephenGiles]

Looks terrific Gez, I'll have to try that sometime - on my ADA Flanger in an EH 5 knob case!!

[gez]

Thank you Stephen.  Labelling takes me about 10 mins using this method!

[Harry]

I like it and i like them knobs too

[bancika]

Very nice looking! Good idea. If there's thinner plexi even better.

[Processaurus]

Oh man, I wrote this whole thing up and the PC lost it, anyway the gist was:

Great work Gez, you may have changed my whole technique. 

Here's the solution to the potential problem with the pot's threads not being able to go through the thickness of the double layer of plastic and diecast box, or if someone wants thicker plastic:   Drill or punch a hole that is big enough for the pot's nut + a socket wrench + a smidgen more.  That way the pot only has to go through the box, but everything looks the same.  Or, make a larger hole, big enough for the knob to sit down in it, and use a counter sink drill bit or uni bit to bevel the edge, for that pro finish.

Mr. McGuire: I just want to say one word to you - just one word.
Ben: Yes sir.
Mr. McGuire: Are you listening?
Ben: Yes I am.
Mr. McGuire: 'Plastics.'
Ben: Exactly how do you mean?
Mr. McGuire: There's a great future in plastics. Think about it. Will you think about it?
Ben: Yes I will.
Mr. McGuire: Shh! Enough said. That's a deal.

[SolderBoy]

I've used a sort of similar method, but I think your's is better.

Basically, I printed the artwork in reverse on a sheet of inkjet OHT.  Then used clear spray contact adheasive to attach first a piece of white plastic (from a shopping bag or whatever), then the printed label.  Looks glossy and is very quick, simple and durable, but too much glue will make the ink bleed slightly, and the label can be slightly distorted when the knobs and switches etc are tightened down.  I guess you could refine the methed a few ways, but the clear acrylic is a great idea!   


SB

[gez]

This is an old thread by the way folks.  Anyway, seeing as it's been revived here's a variation on the theme.  I used to use transparent stickers and, when I was trying out various brands, bought a pack made by Avery.  To my disappointment they weren't clear but translucent, so I stored them away.  I dug them out recently and decided to use their translucent quality to my advantage:



If you print in colour they allow the 'marbling' of a die cast box to show through (with an inkjet that is).  You can get some pretty realistic copper/brass effects if that's your thing.

Just spray the labels with fixative and it protects them from light and moisture.

Edit: with diecast, it only works well with Eddystone boxes as they have square corners.

[MartyMart]

Great idea Gez .... I like that a LOT !
I may even be able to "ween" myself off those pre-painted Maplin Bimbox's  !!! 

MM.

[Paul Marossy]

I did this a while back, too. I think it's pretty slick.

[JonFrum]

I'm new to pedals, but I'd be concerned about the acrylic scratching up. Of course, any surface will scratch, so I'm not sure how much of a problem it would be.

[JimRayden]

I'm new to pedals, but I'd be concerned about the acrylic scratching up. Of course, any surface will scratch, so I'm not sure how much of a problem it would be.

Look at the bright side - it will look retro!

Besides, changing the acrylic plate is a thousand times easier than re-finishing the whole box.

----------
Jimbo

[gez]

I'm new to pedals, but I'd be concerned about the acrylic scratching up. Of course, any surface will scratch, so I'm not sure how much of a problem it would be.

Acrylic isn't like scratch-plate material, it's far less prone to scratching, though that's not to say it won't with time.  I've been using this method for over two years now and the first boxes I did show no signs of scratches.  Even if they do eventually, what's new?  Paint scratches too! 

Paul.  Thanks for the pic, nice to know other's are using this method.

[Ge_Whiz]

Nice work, Gez. I must track down your plastics shop!

[gez]

Nice work, Gez. I must track down your plastics shop!

'Abplas' in South Wimbledon:

Abplas
33 Abbey Pde
Wimbledon
Colliers Wood
SW19 1DG
020 8540 3105

I dare say there'll be somewhere closer to you Phil (just check the Yellow Pages for 'plastic sheeting' or similar).