Hornet + Booster

[Dylfish]

Hi Guys!
My mate and i are planning on building the hornet fuzz pedal, and i know i am getting a little ahead of myself but would it be possible to have another circut in there? such as a booster just to give more juice during a solo? i was thinking of a DPDT switch to bypass between the hornet and bypass while having a 2 way switch to add/bypass the booster after the hornet stage? i know this might seem confusing but im new , ill doin a diagram if required.
Regards

[Dylfish]

anyone....?

[billings]

Yeah, that'd be easily done.  Just put them in the same enclosure and hook the output of one to the input of the next.  That input may be a DPDT depending on what you want to do.

Just get out a sheet of paper and draw out the switching you want, then plug the circuits into the switching.  Should be a diverting little exercise.

[Seljer]

Something like http://aronnelson.com/gallery/The-Mod-Zone-%21/WIRING_MULTIPLE_FX_IN_ONE_BOX
that would also allow you to use the booster without the hornet

If you want the booster to be only available in conjunction with the hornet, take one of those sections and jam it in between the out of the Hornet circuitboard and the main bypass switch
edit: (or between the switch and the input of the circuit, depending on what side you want to boost)

[Dylfish]

so your saying i could have 4 states? such as

1) Complete FX Bypass
2) Hornet
3) Boost
4) Hornet + Boost

Using 2 DPDT Switches?

My original plan was for having 1 DPDT Switch and just a toggle switch as for either turning the boost on or just bypassing it after the hornet stage.

1) Complete FX Bypass
2) Hornet
3) Hornet + Boost



Is this too hard to do? Thats if you understand my idea like i do
I dont really undertand how id get all all the outputs for the thing linking up to the last audio output
Also can anyone recomend a good boost to use that wont take a massive amount of room?
Thanks in advance

[sfr]

Yeah, I've basically done that, although I like my boosts *before* my distortion in many cases.  (Depends on the distortion, of course.) 

And LPB should fit just about anywhere.  I fit a dist+, an LPB and a Brian May Treble booster all in a hammond 1590bb  (MXR phase 100 size)  With small boards like that, you can align them along the side wall and have plenty of room for switches and pots in the midle.

Your switching diagram looks fine, however if you want both effects to be engage-able independtly, look at the link that was posted earlier in the thread.  Basically, wire up two switches like you normally would, but with the first switch, instead of sending the "out" to the output jack tip, send it to the "in" on the second switch (where the input jack tip would connect if the pedal where on it's own)

While I like my box with two stomp switches, one for boost, one for distortion, and being able to switch them both on/off independently, it find it kind of a hassle at times, as my box is pretty small and I hit both switches by accident sometimes, and it's wierd if you turn just one off and there's a strange volume drop or jump because of how they interact.  (since the boost is *before* the distortion in my case, if I have both on, and then turn off the distortion, my signal cleans up, but then gets louder) 

[Pushtone]

snip...
I fit a dist+, an LPB and a Brian May Treble booster all in a hammond 1590bb 

That is a nice combination sfr for sure.
I love the way the Dist+ pushes the Brian May TB for solos. Updates the TB sound in a way.

My original plan was for having 1 DPDT Switch and just a toggle switch as for either turning the boost on or just bypassing it after the hornet stage.

I just did this with a 3PDT footswitch and a 4PDT mini-toggle.
The two booster circuits are AMZ mini-booster and Brian May Treble Booster



But I'm already regretting not just using two 3PDT footswitches.
The 4PDT toggle cost me 9.50! AND bending over sucks.

I have experimented with a couple of switch wiring.
I've settled on this (which is not what I wanted!!):

3PDT | 4PDT | =
Up     | Up     | bypass
Down | Up     | Mini Booster

Up     | Down | bypass
Down | Down | Series MB --> BMTB

In some kind of a dream I drew a schem of a 3PDT and 4PDT that
accomplished the above and also had "swap" mode.
It must have been a dream because I could never find it and
wasted many hours and sheets of paper trying to figure it out.


I was after this:

3PDT | 4PDT | =
Up     | Up     | BMTB
Down | Up     | Mini Booster

Up     | Down | Series Mini Booster --> BMTB
Down | Down | bypass



Good luck Dylfish.
Two boosts in a box is a fun and worthwhile project.
Adding switches can make it more flexable.
Check out what a 4 pole 3 position rotary switch can do.

I don't know the Hornet's sound but I would recommend a treble booster on the output.
I like the Brian May TB over the Rangemaster.

I did something stupid a while back and built this FIVE boosters in a box.
It was cool to have all five together while I tried them with every amp I could get with.
Now that box is empty and the circuits are all mounted in 1590B boxes.


Flash = Fetzer Valve
Fire = MiniBooster
Superman = Stratoblaster
Wonder Woman = BMTB
Green Lantern = Rangemaster


I ended up combining the Fetzer and the Stratoblaster with the
Stratoblast as a buffer in place of bypass. A booster pedal with "buffered" bypass is
great to have at the head of a long line of TB pedals to prevent capacitance tone suck.

I also put the MB and BMTB together as pictured above.

The Rangemaster went into a box by itself because it didn't get along well with the other circuits.

[Dylfish]

man that looks so sweet

thanks to all you guys for your help, im loving this community already

but thanks again

[petemoore]

  I just added LED's [amber and red] for a Mosfet Boost/Dist+ in a woodbox I have, I realized I was having trouble, because theyre' both low noise [and I have other compressors and FuzzFace] Telling what's on and what's bypassed..doing a buncha 'tap dance switching' to find 0 [or what I thought was 0 effects]...these little LED's have already prevented further 'blasts of accidental feedback.
    For the DIST+ I considered using the third row of the 3pdt to turn the M.booster down when the DIST+ is off...that way I can get the 'ultra+' sound [with booster set high> to DIST+] and switch the DIST+ off and have a booster that isn't 10x too loud.
  OR choice 1 could be, Mosfet Booster set to sound good with some' boost
  Choice 2 would be Dist+
  Choice 3 would be DIST+ with Mosfet Boost HAMMEring it's input
  Choice 4 bypass.
  I connect the input jack to the left side of the leftmost switch, output jack
to the right side of the rightmost switch, then connect them at the middle[s, leaving the circuit I/O's left to wire last. I do it this way so I don't again wire 'em wrong first. 

[Pushtone]

Looking at your diagram again and I notice that you have the pedal output connected to the slide switch AND the PCB out.
This can be a recipe for tone suck as the bypassed signal will be loaded down.

You will need another pole in there so the input and output switch simultaneously.

Try this...

[petemoore]

  That's better, but still with that diagram...can PCB 2 be 'alone'...it looks like for PCB 2 to be 'in' PCB 1 is feeding it.
  There was discussion of:
  efkt 1
  efkt 2
  efkt 1+2
  Bypass
  or..4 options, which could be had using a seriesed arrangement.
  injack>'efkt 1 or bypass via sw1' > 'efkt 2 or Bypassed vias sw 2' > outjack

[Pushtone]

 
  There was discussion of:
  efkt 1
  efkt 2
  efkt 1+2
  Bypass
 

Yes yes, thats what I was after! Swap, series and bypass.
The only way I could figure it was with a 12way DIP switch which of course can not be switched with a foot.
can you suggest how to achieve that.

[petemoore]

  Take any Schematic or layout you can follow that has a 3pdt BP like what you want.
  Double it, but remove the jacks...ie where the first effects output Would go to a Outjack, instead that switch lug goes to the lug of the next switch that would have been going to the input jack of the second effect.
  Think about like...you want the first effect to go to the second effect / without the jacks...output of effect #1 through switch goes to input of efkt #2 input jack lug.
        1 bypassjumper   4           1   BPJ     4
J>in  2                        5 out>> 2            5> output Jack
        3     Effect           6           3  effect   6
  The holes in a 3pdt blue can be looked through from the side, if not, turn the switch 1/4 turn...other wise you'll have to pull the wiring / turn the sw 1/4 turn and rewire.
  Another way to find switch orientation is make sure lugs 2 and 3 connect when lugs 2 and 1 don't....hit the switch and 2 and 1 connect 2 and 3 don't.

[MartyMart]

http://aronnelson.com/gallery/The-Mod-Zone-%21/WIRING_2_FX_IN_1_BOX

I think that your question was answered a while ago ... unless I'm reading this totally wrong !

( that does happen )

That wire up above gives 4 states, as pete said  :

effect 1 only ( 2 bypassed )
effect 2 only ( 1 bypassed )
effect 1&2    ( 1 driving into 2 if 1 is the "boost"  )
bypass both

MM

[Pushtone]

The original poster wanted this to be configured with ONE footswitch and ONE toggle.
As opposed to two footswitches. Perhaps to keep the box size down.
This is a little different than the 2-IN-ONE wiring above.

I got out some more scrap paper and came up with this.
This switch diagram uses a mini-toggle to impose two "modes" on the footswitch.

Mode 1: Footswitch swaps between the two circuits, no bypass here.

Mode 2: Footswitch selects between bypass and series.

This uses a 3PDT footswitch (GREEN SW) and a 4PDT mini-toggle (YELLOW SW).
I'm going to re-wire my black box (pictured above) to see how bad the poping noise is with this config tonight.

[Pushtone]

Oh yeah, one pole on the 3PDT footswitch is used to switch two LEDs so you can follow
what circuit is on when in swap mode (mode 1).