Inkjet printer ok for PC transfers??

Started by csmatt45, August 25, 2006, 01:01:37 AM

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csmatt45

The one's from Steve at Small Bear. Does it matter?

Thanks!

Matt

Meanderthal

If you mean press and peel, no, you need a laser printer or a dry toner copier. I can't do it either. If anyone knows a reliable way to do it with inkjet, let me know!
I am not responsible for your imagination.

csmatt45

yeah, thats what I thought. Was hoping I'd be wrong though!

thanks

Snuffy

I'd suggest cruising on down to your local copy shop.
I went into one today for the first time in a while and they have everything.
I'm sure you'd be able to get the printing done for cheap, too

Seljer

I rearrange all the PCBs to fit onto one A4 sheet (so I can fit as many as possible on there), print it out at home, then go get it photocopied onto the PnP

alfafalfa

I use my inkjet printer and print on a transparent sheet which I use on photosensitive eurocards , I cut out the right size. Then expose it to  ultraviolet light and develop it and finally etch it.
This works great.
The inkjetprinter is set to inkvolume: more and drytime: longer.

Alfafalfa 

R.G.

Inkjet on transparency with presensitized PCB stock works.

Laser on transfer paper works. Transfer paper can be: Press-N-Peel, label release backing paper, glossy magazine paper, others.

Inkjet on transfer paper DOES NOT WORK.

Inkjet directly on cleaned PCB stock with stuff like special impervious inks, Mop-N-Glow, stuff like that, works. But you have to heavily modify your inkjet printer to get it to print on PCB stock.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

csmatt45


Ardric

I've been using an inkjet on plain copier paper with presensitized PCB stock.  I sandwich the paper with the printed side down between the board and a sheet of glass from a picture frame, clamp it, then expose it to sunlight (straight on!) for about 3-5 minutes.  I know this has less contrast and resolution than transparency sheets, but it still seems to work fine for the chunky traces on Tonepad layouts.  The exception was my GT2 board, which wasn't clamped well and developed a gap between the art and the board.  I had to clean up the spaces around a number of blurry pads on that one.


DVB_master

Hi, here's what I do: I go to buy some transparent sheets. These have two sides: one is for Laser Printer and the other (that is rough) is for Inkjet printers. I use the rough side with my Inkjet. Once a the layout has been printed, I use UV lamps with photoboard etc... In my city those sheets costs 3 euros (about 3.80 USD  :icon_evil:) but i can print more than a layout on a single page.  Anyway if u own an old printer it's better printing the layout on a common sheet and then do a photocopy on a transparent sheet so that the ink is more uniform! Hope this helps! ;)