9V Electric Mistress Pre-build

[markusw]

4) Will work. However, I recommend you to use a 15V Zener and run the thing with 12V (or even 15V) supply. Really sounds better! 
5) I believe that's the same chip I used. I suppose every 4013 should work...
7) No. You'll end up with a much smaller LFO rate range. With 200k (or actually 166k) max resistance slowest LFO rate will be 5x higher than with an 1M. If you can't get an 1M revlog you might use a 1M log. Pot would work the other way round though.
10) C13

Anybody knows if i can get a true bypass with a dpdt and milennium in this project??

Shouldn't be a problem..

I too would go for a non-inverting opamp stage. Personally, I would increase the 10n to 1µ and decrease the 1M to 10k (or maybe a bit larger but - as a bass player -  that's just my panic to loose bottom end  ). This might reduce noise a bit but most likely it won't really matter....as I said.. "personally"...

Sorry for answering that late  I've been very busy the last week...

Regards,

Markus

[rasco22862]

Thanks Markus for your replies, and thank you slacker for the schematic. Is this layout ok?


Thanks

[slacker]

I made a mistake on the schematic, the output from the opamp should be pin 6 not pin 5, so that needs changing on your layout, sorry about that, I've changed it now.
The grey wire from the pot should go to the pin 2 side of R1 not the Vref side, the out on your layout should be from where C2 and R3 join, then it should be correct.

[rasco22862]

Ok, thanks, what about now?

[slacker]

that's right, good luck with it

[rasco22862]

I order a 1uF tantalium cap in my electronic store, and they give me a kind of ceramic in size that says 105, but has no polarity, i mean, there is no + or -, only says 105, is this right?

[QSQCaito]

Rasco, is there any leg larger than the other?

[rasco22862]

no, there isnt.

[GREEN FUZ]

It`s a 1uf alright. Probably Mylar, in which case I`d also hazard a guess it`s non-polarized.

[rasco22862]

Looks like the right one of this image, and says 105, and his legs are the same size

[GREEN FUZ]

105 is the code. First and second numbers are the significant digits read as Pico-farads. The third is usually the amount of zeros to add. Therefore 10 =00000 = 1000,000pf = 1000nf = 1uf. Baddabing.

[rasco22862]

but is polarized or not? what should i do?

[slacker]

The one in that picture is a ceramic it's not polarised, so just put it in any way you like.  The 1uF in my schematic doesn't need to be a polarised cap, I just drew it as one because most caps that big are polarised.

[rasco22862]

With a 12v zener diode, i can make it work with both, 9v and 12v right?

[rasco22862]

With a 12v zener diode, i can make it work with both, 9v and 12v right?

[rasco22862]

with 15v zener diode, can i run it with 9v too??

[rasco22862]

OK, i finished building it. I´m using 9V to power it and a BZX55c10(10v zener 0,5w diode). I got all the voltages matched with these(they are a little bit higher, but all are related with them:

I only have 3 voltages different:

LM311 PIN 7: 6,85V
CD4013 PIN 3: 6.82V (I THINK ITS CONNECTED WITH THE LM311 PIN 7)
CD4013 PIN 12: 0,8MV
CD4013 PIN 13: 7.6V.

And is not working.I got no sound at all when the fx is engaged. Nothing, not even hum. When i turn the trimpot, i listen a little bit of interference, nothing more.
I´m using true bypass, and i´m not using the bypass lead, i just wired the dpdt for a milennium switch.
Also i noticed that there isnt a hole for the output ground, so i just connect it with the input ground.
The only replacements are the 1n4007 for the 1n4001, 4,7uF for 5uF, HEF4013BP for CD4013

Thanks

[rasco22862]

OK I finished building and now is working. But i dont know if its working like it has to be working. Can anybody explain me with details how i should set the trimpots?

Thanks

[Bassco]

I just finished mine and set the trimpots in the following way:

The bias trim I turned intill the effect was obvious, i didn't notice a lot of difference between different settings so I just configured it in the way it was working.

For the feedback trim I first adjusted the feedback potmeter for maximum feedback. Then I adjusted the trimmer until I heard a lot of feedback. After this I turned the feedback trim until the feedback was gone. This is best done with the guitar volume off, to not confuse the feedback with the effect sound.

The clock trim didn't do a lot for me. The sound changed but it seems it doesn't affect the rate that much. I also have the problem that the rate changes the most at the end of the turn of the rate potmeter, makes it hard to fine tune the effect. Maybe I connected the pot wrong or maybe the effect is designed this way. I adjusted the clock trim until I got an effect I liked.

How does yours sound?

[rasco22862]

Hi, thanks for you reply. In mine the bias trim has maybe 30 degrees where the effect is working, in the other, the effect doesnt work, just clean sound, so i think this one is ok.
Now for the feedback, i set it to the middle, then i noticed that when i was adjusting the range pot to maximum a creepy and very high noise "from space" was coming out. So i adjust the feedback trim with the range pot to maximum, and when the noise dissapeared i leave it that way.
For the clock trim (this one is the hardest to set) I set the rate pot to maxiumum rate (i put a 1m log backwards), and the range and color almost to maximum, and started to set the clock trim, when i heared a complicated sound "with a lot of effects", set it to that position. I dont know maybe its incorrect.
Can you upload some sound clips Bassco?
Im going to do it tomorrow. (Maybe a comfortably numb solo with a big muff)

Thanks again