Yes I get lazy! Anyone make PCB for 3TDP switches?

PurpleStrat · July 02, 2008, 11:51:58 AM

Like this

tiges_ tendres · July 02, 2008, 12:07:00 PM

Is that one of the new danelectro pedals? nice!

Darren has one that he has been kind enough to share. I can't find it though. I know his website is: http://www.dazatronyx.com

railhead · July 02, 2008, 01:05:05 PM

Hmmm, I never thought of doing a PCB for JUST the switch -- I always fought with integrating the switch to the full PCB.

DADGUM, I LIKE this idea! I'll have to come up one ASAP. IF it pans-out, I'll post it here.

Ben N · July 02, 2008, 01:12:05 PM

Quote from: railhead on July 02, 2008, 01:05:05 PMDADGUM

Hey, that's not some fancy open/modal/Celtic/blues tuning, is it? No wait, can't find the dern U and M notes.

ianmgull · July 02, 2008, 01:24:53 PM

I thought about this before. VERY cool idea. I remember a thread about different bypass methods on here recently. It would be cool to use the kind with the grounded input, led connects (maybe even the led resistor?) all on the same board.

railhead · July 02, 2008, 01:38:17 PM

My boardhouse has a minimum dimension of about 26x31mm (1x1.2 inches). Here's a basic layout, showing the extra space:

JI - Jack Input Sleeve
BI = Board In
SG = Switch Ground
LE = LED Ground
BO = Board Out
JO = Jack Output Sleeve

What else should be added?

EDIT: You'd need a ground connection between this board and the main board for sure...

aron · July 02, 2008, 01:47:19 PM

Looks great! Let us know if it saves time.

railhead · July 02, 2008, 02:07:49 PM

Okay, let's figure this out.

All grounds need to be connected, so how should we connect this board to the main PCB? Why can't we just connect the jack and switch grounds (lugs 4-5-6) together, then the trace SG could go to the main board for a complete ground circuit? Does the functionality of the switch require that 4-5-6 *not* be connected like that?

PurpleStrat · July 02, 2008, 02:30:20 PM

Great! Now mabye we can get John Lyons or someone to make some!

Filament · July 02, 2008, 02:35:21 PM

Analog Mike has been using switch PCBs for some time. He claims that they offer many benefits and that they help reduce pop. Mike is a pretty open guy and I'd wager that he might even share his design if someone asked nicely. Then again, he's been kicked around some on that "other" forum so he might not be as willing to share as before. Either way, it's worth asking.

railhead · July 02, 2008, 02:47:52 PM

Quote from: PurpleStrat on July 02, 2008, 02:30:20 PM
Great! Now mabye we can get John Lyons or someone to make some!

I can get them made for us at around $0.85 to $0.90 each -- I just need to know about the ground issue.

PurpleStrat · July 02, 2008, 03:23:27 PM

With all that extra room you could put a place for the drop down resistor!

railhead · July 02, 2008, 03:26:01 PM

Quote from: PurpleStrat on July 02, 2008, 03:23:27 PM
With all that extra room you could put a place for the drop down resistor!

True, that. How about a pulldown on in and out? I've used both in some of my boosts.

PurpleStrat · July 02, 2008, 04:40:23 PM

You could do it this way and add another ground out.

railhead · July 02, 2008, 04:41:38 PM

Here's a new versions with support for pulldowns on in and out:

I can get these plate-through with soldermask and screening.

Anything else to add before I order a batch to test?

cpnyc23 · July 02, 2008, 06:18:49 PM

Really psyched to see people doing this! I've thought about it a couple of times but never followed through.

Can't wait to see how it turns out.

-chris

railhead · July 02, 2008, 06:30:38 PM

Here are a couple of life size shots of the board:

As you can (hopefully) see, there's still plenty of room for a battery, and the jack in/out are right there handy. Also, the board doesn't extend any farther than the lugs on the jacks, so you're still able to get around 53mm of depth from the edge of my board to the front interior edge of a 1290NS.

The "bad" thing about including the pulldowns is that existing PCBs that provide for them make them unnecessary -- but all you have to do is either make a 12mm jumper, or just tap your wire to the switch end of the resistor spot.

What do you guys think? Anything else to add?

cpnyc23 · July 02, 2008, 07:26:05 PM

well, if you have the DC input jack on the side, next to the switch, you could also include a spot to run power from the jack to the limiting resistor for the led.
While you're at it, why not put a spot for V+ in from the DC jack that then splits. One leg for the LED resistor and one for board power. That would eliminate the need to try to hook two wires into the DC jack.

-chris

cheeb · July 02, 2008, 07:52:02 PM

Quote from: cpnyc23 on July 02, 2008, 07:26:05 PM
well, if you have the DC input jack on the side, next to the switch, you could also include a spot to run power from the jack to the limiting resistor for the led.
While you're at it, why not put a spot for V+ in from the DC jack that then splits. One leg for the LED resistor and one for board power. That would eliminate the need to try to hook two wires into the DC jack.

-chris

Keep on going and you'll end up with a Soggybag board. lol

ambulancevoice · July 02, 2008, 08:40:20 PM

Quote from: cheeb on July 02, 2008, 07:52:02 PM
Quote from: cpnyc23 on July 02, 2008, 07:26:05 PM
well, if you have the DC input jack on the side, next to the switch, you could also include a spot to run power from the jack to the limiting resistor for the led.
While you're at it, why not put a spot for V+ in from the DC jack that then splits. One leg for the LED resistor and one for board power. That would eliminate the need to try to hook two wires into the DC jack.

-chris

Keep on going and you'll end up with a Soggybag board. lol

i was waiting for someone to post that

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Yes I get lazy! Anyone make PCB for 3TDP switches?