A/DA Flanger powering: would this work?

[cathexis]

Hi!
I've spent most of my christmas vacation drawing a veroboard layout for the A/DA Flanger using Moosapotamus schematic with the MN3007 retro-fit. I've built it and it works well, produces the best flanging effects I've heard. I need to spend some more time calibrating it (lots of trimpots), and I want to see if I can fix a slight volume drop when the effect is engaged. Then I'll tidy up my drawing and post the vero layout in my gallery if noone has any objections to this.

But, for now, a question:

I've had trouble finding a good 18V DC power supply. I've bought two and returned them because of massive hum and noise. I do have a good 18V AC supply, though, that I use for my Neo-Vibe with no noise problems whatsoever.

Could I make a contraption like the one below to power my A/DA Flanger? Would this work? It's just a combination of the power supply on RG Keens Neo-Vibe schem and the one on Moosapotamus A/DA schem.

If it works I'll use it for the Clone Theory as well, making a vero layout for that one was how I spent New Year's...

LARS

[zyxwyvu]

I'm surprised you got a lot of noise from those 18V supplies, because moosapotamus' A/DA flanger has a regulator on the board. If you want to make your own, though, that schematic looks good aside from a couple things:

-There is no need for the 1N4001 diode in the middle, or the 470uF capacitor after it
-The regulator in the pedal is a 7815, so it needs about 18V to function properly. Thus, I would switch the 7815 in your schematic for a 7818. You'll have about 24V out of the bridge recitifer, so you've got plenty of room to increase the regulator voltage.

I use a diy power supply very similar to this to power mine.

[cathexis]

-There is no need for the 1N4001 diode in the middle, or the 470uF capacitor after it
-The regulator in the pedal is a 7815, so it needs about 18V to function properly. Thus, I would switch the 7815 in your schematic for a 7818. You'll have about 24V out of the bridge recitifer, so you've got plenty of room to increase the regulator voltage.

Thanks!
Actually everything on my drawing to the right of the two 1000uf caps is what's already on the board, in accordance to Moosapotamus schematic. The 7815 is the pedal's "own" regulator, so to speak. When I connected my 18V AC supply to the diode bridge I got a reading of about 18V DC across the + and - pins of the diode bridge. I was thinking I could just add the diode bridge and the two 1000uF caps to my board and then hook up the 18V AC PSU through the power jack to the diode bridge. Will the existant 1N4001 and the 470uF cap cause problems?
LARS

[zyxwyvu]

Thanks!
Actually everything on my drawing to the right of the two 1000uf caps is what's already on the board, in accordance to Moosapotamus schematic. The 7815 is the pedal's "own" regulator, so to speak. When I connected my 18V AC supply to the diode bridge I got a reading of about 18V DC across the + and - pins of the diode bridge. I was thinking I could just add the diode bridge and the two 1000uF caps to my board and then hook up the 18V AC PSU through the power jack to the diode bridge. Will the existant 1N4001 and the 470uF cap cause problems?
LARS

In that case, I expect your solution will work fine. The diode and capacitor will not cause any problems. The diode is just there for reverse polarity protection. It doesn't affect the circuit other than dropping the voltage by about .7V. Also, my guess is you won't need 2000uF of capacitance, but it couldn't hurt.