I bought some from radio shack. Part Number 64-022. I tried it and for the first time was actually able to fully fill a solder lug. It seams like I remember reading on here somewhere that this isn't supposed to be used though. Is this true? If so, it seems like alot of pedal builders use it from looking at their solder joints. I can usually see what looks like a little flux was added.

I know flux is in rosin core solder. I use 60/40 .032" Diameter-Standard Rosin Core solder from radio shack. Part number 64-009 I believe. Is this solder any good? I've been soldering for a while now but still can seem to get it down.

Also, I just get a Hakko 936 soldering station and iron pretty much brand new in box for a very good price...It was highly recommended on a guitar forum. I was using a Weller Therma Boost TB100 30w-130 iron but it was hard to control being it's shaped like a damn gun. I also tried a Radio shack iron and it just sucked. As far as the Hakko, is this thing gonna be way to hot for pedal applications? It's hard to tell how strong it is. For the Station it says power consumption 100, 110, 220-240V/60W, 120V/65W. Output voltage-24V AC, Temperature Range 200-480 Celcius, 392-896 F. For the iron it says Power Consumption 24V AC-50W. If it is to powerful would someone please let me know so I can send it back asap?

Thanks in advance guys.

It sounds like that stuff is exactly like what most of us use. Also, the Iron is a good one.

Jacob

So the flux paste is alright to use? Also, about what temperature should I put the hakko on? I was told around 700-750?

Essentially, flux cleans up the surface of whatever it is you're soldering so that the solder can adhere to the surfaces well. One issue we usually face in our builds is the flux residue (As opposed to the flux capacitor.... sorry, it's my geekdom rearing it's head). Anyway, the flux residue can easily be cleaned up with rubbing alcohol/acetone and a tooth brush. We all tend to use the rosin core 60/40 solder, so that's fine.

Using just plain flux like plumbers use is overkill in the least.

If you're having trouble soldering and getting a good bond, use some rubbing alcohol and steel wool (synthetic is fine). Scrub the surfaces to clean it up a bit and it should work out just fine for you using rosin core solder alone. You shouldn't need the regular flux stuff.

Jacob

That flux paste is likely to be ok, as it is a rosin base. It's ACID flux (bakers fluid, killed spirits, zinc chloride) that you want to stay right away from when dealing with electronics!

Rosin flux both excludes oxygen & is a chemical cleaning agent. When it is heated, the activators lift surface oxides & allow the solder to alloy with ('wet') the surface of the parts being soldered. Usually there is enough in the cores of even 'low residue' solder to make this happen. The word of the day, though, is CLEAN. The parts should be clean, free of grease & oil, & bright. A plastic scouring pad (Scotch-Brite?) is a good thing to have around, as is a quantity of pure alcohol & paper tissue- (iso-propyl is the alcohol of choice for cleaning), when dealing with old components. Flux residues (particularly the spent activators) are another possible problem & cleaning those off after all soldering is finished is also recommended! In other words, you probably shouldn't need extra flux for everyday work, but poorly plated metal parts- like lugs & tags- will often respond well to additional flux (as you have found!).

As for temperature, 700F would be great. It really depends what you are trying to do,  as an example - the industry-standard weller WTCP* pencils have a selection of temperature controlled tips, and for general work a '7' tip (700 deg F) is usual (you might see an '8' (800 deg F) in use for certain things, such as hi-temp solder for the later-inaccessible side of turrets/pins).

To answer your wattage question:  as a general rule it is said a 25W iron is enough for electronics work - & 50 & 100 W irons are too much- this is generally true for unregulated irons. In a temperature-regulated device with interchangeable tips with suitable shapes,  that rule doesn't apply.  You set the temperature, select the right size tip & away you go - the wattage rating is simply a measure of how fast the iron can be ready for the next joint.  If you have to solder something large that sucks all the heat out of the iron quickly, you don't need more temperature or more power- you need more tip mass (so select a larger tip).  The basic rule is that the heater is there to heat the tip, not heat the joint

The Hakko looks like a nice piece of kit!

david