Using transparencies on painted enclosures

[PMcG No.6]

I just posted this at BYOC. I figure I'd share the love.  

I have used transparencies (a la Rick's(Frequency Central) tutorial) on bare aluminum enclosures before. I tried them on a painted enclosure once and it didn't turn out so well. So, I switched over to using photo paper and that's what I've been using since. The problem using photpaper with a painted enclosure is getting the background colour of your graphic to match the paint colour. I finally took the time to figure out a good way to use transparencies on a painted enclosure. This is the procedure I came up with.

Materials I use:
-Rustoleum spray paint
-toaster oven with heat settings. e.g. in degrees not Hi-Med-Lo
-glue stick(that dries clear)
-Fiskars paper trimmer
-small nail clippers
-inkjet transparency film (I use Hewlett Packard)
-Envirotex Pour-On epoxy resin (click here to see it)
-piece of cardboard (large enough to catch excess resin)
-4 golf tees (tall enough to lift enclosure off working surface)
-Acetone
-clamp light with a standard 100w bulb (like this one)


Print your graphic reversed on the rough side of your transparency. Allow the ink to dry. Using the spray paint you've chosen, follow the manufacturer instructions for application. I use Rustoleum so that's what these instructions will reflect. Spray a light coat of paint on the underside(rough side) of transparency. Place under clamp light (approximately 14" above working surface) for about 2 minutes. Apply another light coat of paint. Repeat until desired coverage is met. After the final coat has set, place the graphic aside somewhere safe so no paint flakes off.

Drill holes in your enclosure using your preferred method. I use a template and a punch to mark my holes. Then I drill pilot holes with a 1/8" bit. Then I drill the holes to appropriate sizes using a unibit. If you do not have one get one! So much easier than changing bits. I got mine cheap at Harbor Freight. Sand your enclosure to your liking. I use a palm sander with 180 grit to get the nasty stuff off. Then I hand sand it with 220 or 320, whichever I have on hand. Wash the enclosure with a mild dish soap and a nylon brush. If you clean yours another way, have at it. ;o) Then wipe the enclosure down with some acetone on a clean paper towel. Allow the enclosure to completely dry. I bake mine in the toaster oven for 30 minutes @ 200 degrees.

Preheat your toaster oven to 200 degrees. Make sure the oven is not going to be used for anything else! Also, use it in a well ventilated area. Mine is in my garage. After it has been completely dried, spray your first coat of paint on the enclosure. Place the enclosure in the toaster oven for 30 minutes. After this time, remove it from the oven and allow it to cool for about 10 minutes. Apply another coat and repeat these steps until desired coverage is met. After your painting is completed allow the enclosure to cure overnight. I don't know if this is necessary or not, but I do it to be on the safe side. I've had too many reptile paint jobs that had to be sanded off to want to rush it. To ensure a level paint finish I very lightly sand the surface with some 2000 grit wet sandpaper. I do this over a sink with some lukewarm water running to keep the surface and paper wet. Set the enclosure aside to cry. Don't worry if the paint finish is dulled from the sanding. This will aid in applying the graphic. After the Envirotex is applied you won't even notice. It'll be quite shiny. While the enclosure is drying, use the paper trimmer to cut the graphic to size. Be careful not to pull any paint from the back of the transparency. Take your time cutting the graphic. The paint along the edges of the where you are cutting may flake a little.



I usually have a border on my graphics to hide this. The flaking will not be major and will be hidden after being applied to the enclosure and coated with the Envirotex. To round the corners of the transparency, I use small baby sized nail clippers. Now you're ready to apply the graphic.

Using your gluestick(use one that says it dries clear), apply a decent amount of glue to the surface of the enclosure where the graphic is going. Make sure you get an even coat so there are no bubbles under the graphic from where it is not sticking or clumps of glue causing bumps. Carefully place the graphic on the enclosure. Make sure you line it up well because the adhesive will start to grab quickly. If you move it too much you may pull the paint off the transparency. We don't want that. After you place the graphic where you need it, set it aside to allow the glue to set. I usually wait about an hour or two. Using an exacto knife, VERY CAREFULLY cut out the material over the holes. You must be careful not to lift the transparency or you may remove the paint from the back. If this happens directly around the holes it'll be hidden by any hardware you place there (e.g. pots, switches, LED bezels...). Try to cut down and through the transparency. Do not use a sawing motion! After removing all the material over the holes you are ready for the fun part!

Envirotex... Buy it. Use it. Love it. It is your new best friend. I have tried a few things to get this to work right. Envirotex is the key! I bought mine at my local hardware store in the shellac and stains aisle. You can get it at some craft stores also. It was about $15 for two 8oz bottles. One is hardener and one is the epoxy. It's a simple 1:1 solution. Be careful not to breathe the fumes too much. You will get dizzy. Make sure you don this in a well ventilated area also. To prepare the work area, take your cardboard and pierce the underside with your golf tees so that they form a stand on the top. So the part of the tee you would stick in the ground is where your enclosure will rest and the "flat" part of the tee is the footing. Place your enclosure on the stand and make sure your working surface is level. Mix the Envirotex per the included instructions. I used 2oz of each part and had more than enough for a 1590NS enclosure from Pedal Parts Plus. Use the "two-cup" method in the instructions for mixing. After you've prepared the epoxy per the instructions, immediately pour it over the enclosure making sure your coat the top evenly.



I poured it quite slowly in a circular motion and made sure I poured around the edges to ensure coverage on the sides. The mixture runs easily and can me moved around with whatever you used to mix it with. Once you've got full coverage you may start to see bubbles forming and rising. Just breathe on the surface and they will pop. I used my stirring stick for about the first 5 minutes removing the drips from the bottom edge of the sides. I recommend you use something to cover the area also. Making sure no dust or anything else loose in the air will settle in the epoxy. I used a cardboard box and placed it over the enclosure. After about 25 minutes I checked on it and removed any other drips that have formed along the bottom. Then you just let it cure for the time it says in the instructions and that's it! Later you can go back and cut off any excess clear with an exacto knife. Inside the enclosure you'll find some clear set up around the inside of the holes. I haven't removed mine yet, but I was going to try my Dremel with a small cutting disc. The same ones I use to cut my vero.



Hope this helps. If you have success using this tutorial please post here and let me and the others know. Be seeing you!

-Chad

[ayayay!]

Nice tutorial.
I LOVED The Prisoner

[PMcG No.6]

Thanks! I got tired of trial and error with spray-on clear coats. I tried Minwax Polycrylic before the Envirotex. Just didn't seem to work quite right. I know some use polyurethane also. I saw a few posts here that mentioned the Envirotex. It sounded pretty easy to use. Only one coat and let it set up. Easy is always a bonus.

I've been a fan of The Prisoner since high school. It's one of my all-time favourite shows. I think that's evident considering my icon, screen name and effects site all are inspired by something from the show. 

Be seeing you!
-Chad

[KazooMan]

Great tutorial!  I ran over to my local Ace Hardware and bought a box of this stuff.  This looks like a great way to get a terrific graphic and a durable glossy finish. 

I can't resist pointing out one typo in your post.  In the section where you are describing wet sanding the enclosure you state:  "Set the enclosure aside to cry."   

BOY OH BOY have I had THAT experience!  Alligator paint, crooked waterslides, etc., etc., etc. 

Thanks again,  I'll try this soon.

[PMcG No.6]

Great tutorial!  I ran over to my local Ace Hardware and bought a box of this stuff.  This looks like a great way to get a terrific graphic and a durable glossy finish.

Thanks. Hope yours comes out well.

I can't resist pointing out one typo in your post.  In the section where you are describing wet sanding the enclosure you state:  "Set the enclosure aside to cry."   

BOY OH BOY have I had THAT experience!  Alligator paint, crooked waterslides, etc., etc., etc. 

Thanks again,  I'll try this soon.

What makes you think the enclosure's not going to cry? It's tears of joy from all the attention it's getting. It's like a day at the spa. 

[PMcG No.6]

I've done a few using this method now. Here's the results:







If you come across some uneven epoxy after it's set up, you can wet sand it to smooth it out. Then I uses some rubbing compound (I used some 3M Perfect-It!) and then shine it up with some polish! I used Zymol. Worked great.

[cloudscapes]

I use epoxy resin as a finish as well. I don't poke holes in the decal untill after the epoxy has hardened though. to eliminate the "pillowing"

[PMcG No.6]

I use epoxy resin as a finish as well. I don't poke holes in the decal untill after the epoxy has hardened though. to eliminate the "pillowing"

I ran across your posts a while ago when I was searching for an alternative to spray on clear. I thought about waiting to cut the holes until after the resin set, but was worried about hoe hard it might be to cut thru it. Is it that hard to get thru it for the holes after it sets?

[KazooMan]

Your Fat Foot is very nice. 

I haven't tried a pedal yet, but I did mix up a batch of the resin to try on a scrap piece of sheet metal.  It poured out smoothly and I was amazed at how the bubbles in it disappeared when I applied a bit of warmth with a torch as in the instructions.  The resin set up perfectly flat and clear.  However, it is still a bit soft after several days.  I can scratch it with my fingernails.  Have you found this to be the case?  I "measured" the two components by eye and the mix may have been a bit off.  I'll be much more exact when I move on to a pedal.  I am a bit worried that the finish will not be durable where your foot rubs when you hit the switch.

I notice that both of your pedals in the pics have all the labeling on the top surface (in/out and power jacks).  Have you tried any where you also apply a transparency to the side? 

[PMcG No.6]

Your Fat Foot is very nice.

Thanks!   The one in the pic got shipped to a customer. It was the first Fat Foot I used the Envirotex on. Came out great!

I haven't tried a pedal yet, but I did mix up a batch of the resin to try on a scrap piece of sheet metal.  It poured out smoothly and I was amazed at how the bubbles in it disappeared when I applied a bit of warmth with a torch as in the instructions.  The resin set up perfectly flat and clear.  However, it is still a bit soft after several days.  I can scratch it with my fingernails.  Have you found this to be the case?  I "measured" the two components by eye and the mix may have been a bit off.  I'll be much more exact when I move on to a pedal.  I am a bit worried that the finish will not be durable where your foot rubs when you hit the switch.

Still soft after several days, huh? Hmm... only thing I can think of is maybe you didn't mix it thoroughly or long enough? I haven't had that problem yet. Did you use the "two-cup" method they show in the instructions? I think it says to mix it for a minute in each cup before pouring. Might depend on the temperature it's curing in also. Are you doing it inside? My finishes are hard as a rock. I measured 2oz of each the first time I did it. After that I eyeballed the parts.

I notice that both of your pedals in the pics have all the labeling on the top surface (in/out and power jacks).  Have you tried any where you also apply a transparency to the side? 

I haven't tried it with anything attached to the sides yet. I would guess it would level out as easily as it does with nothing on the sides.

[KazooMan]

I gave the Envirotek resin a try and I thought I would report on my results.  I redid the enclosures for two pedals I built ages ago.  I did a PT-80 Delay using the transparency method posted by PMcG.  The whole process went about as described, but I had a few problems.  I could not get the material to form a good smooth finish on the sides of the enclosure.  I should have left well enough alone, but I kept messing with it and ended up with some sags .  Still I am pleased with my first attempt.  

For my second pedal I tried something different.  From my photography interests I was familiar with a "paper" made by Pictorico and sold under their name or Olympus.  It is Pictorico Pro Photo Gallery Hi-Gloss White FILM.  This is just what it sounds like, a thin plastic film (a bit thicker than the transparency stock) with a gloss white surface that is made to accept ink jet inks.  This worked really well and complements the transparency method nicely.  PMcG's trick of spraying the back of the transparency with the base color of the pedal works really well, but one problem with the transparency method is that you cannot print white.  With the film you can print any color you choose.  If you want the bulk of the label to be the base color, use the transparency.  If you want the majority of the label to be printed, the film works great and you can print any colors you want.  I should note that this stuff is not cheap, but if you are careful you will not waste any.  I used 4 x 6'' sheets that are just right for a pedal after a bit of trimming.

I did the chorus pedal with the film, using a picture of the spiral galaxy M81 I grabbed off the net.  I should have made the text lighter, but it is still legible.  I did run into problems with the sides again.  This time I got good smooth results, but I ended up with some thick "drips" at the bottom edge.  I think this might be because the place I have to do this is not as warm as it should be.  For the Chorus I also added one of the plexiglass plates with LEDs.  It glows red when the power is on and blue when you engage the effect.  

Here's a pic.

[PMcG No.6]

Well done, KazooMan! Those look great! I'll have to see about this photo film stuff. Sounds pretty sweet. might safe a few steps too. 

[bluesman1218]

Great tutorial, Chad. Very impressed with your site and builds, too. Thanks for sharing!

[darron]

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its a VERY bloody cool sounding pedal if you want to check it out on youtube too!!!!

[PMcG No.6]

bumb


its a VERY bloody cool sounding pedal if you want to check it out on youtube too!!!!

Thanks, mate! ...Did Brett make you say that? LOL  Really dig your Class A Ge Amp. Sounded sweet in Brett's demo. Cheers!

[darron]

i was subscribed to brett's youtube page. i remember seeing the aces high pedal and showing some people because i really liked the sound. only today i picked up that it was the same pedal that got used in this tutorial (saved for later in my favourites). there's just too many pedals now to keep track of them all in my mind (: