Not sure if there's already info out there about this, but I had one come in for repair when a co worker smashed a couple of the switches on his.
C1- .1u
C2- 1uF (NP)
C3- .047u
C5- .1u
C8- 1uF (NP)
C11- .047u
C13- .1u
C14- 1uF (NP)
R35-1.1k metal film
D4-1N4001
D5- 2 5mm red LED's in series, a hole is drilled through the "o" in tone and one LED is held via a holder so it's visible.
There are three SPDT on/on switches mounted on the sides of the enclosure, and they're wired like this.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/rouejeremy/DS1synthmod_zpsacc24b28.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/rouejeremy/media/DS1synthmod_zpsacc24b28.jpg.html)
just finished to perform this strange mod - it really gives you a better sound in the standard way, less gain but a tone that's usable and not screeching - and as bonus you have those switches to play with! Insane sounds!!!
I'd perform this mod to others, without those switches, I really love the way it turned out!!!
I built one myself and it wasn't doing exactly what the original was doing, but still pretty crazy.
I know this thread hasn't been touched in forever, but I performed the mods exactly as detailed above and it sounds exactly like the video 8) Absolutely thrilled with this mod, thanks to the OP ;D
Quote from: vigilante397 on January 31, 2015, 06:59:07 PM
I know this thread hasn't been touched in forever, but I performed the mods exactly as detailed above and it sounds exactly like the video 8) Absolutely thrilled with this mod, thanks to the OP ;D
I'm glad it worked out, and glad you bumped this thread. I completely forgot about it and have a couple DS1's laying around.
This is SO exciting!!! I have wanted to do this mod to my DS-1, but didn't want to plop down the $90 to have JHS do it.
Quote from: rousejeremy on February 21, 2014, 10:12:35 AM
There are three SPDT on/on switches mounted on the sides of the enclosure, and they're wired like this.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/rouejeremy/DS1synthmod_zpsacc24b28.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/rouejeremy/media/DS1synthmod_zpsacc24b28.jpg.html)
Thanks for posting this, man! I do have a question: since the SPDT switches are mounted above the board, how would you go about getting the wires down and around to solder to the board as shown in the pic? Long wires coming from each corner near the screw holes?
Thanks!
Also, do you have a pic of the modified board? I want to make sure I buy the correct caps and doodads.
Another question! Does the additional LED, installed in the O of Tone, provide any other use besides pulsing with the signal going through it? Is it a required aspect of the mod? How are the leads soldered to D5?
Quote from: TimVanBoening on June 21, 2015, 01:44:10 PM
Also, do you have a pic of the modified board? I want to make sure I buy the correct caps and doodads.
Another question! Does the additional LED, installed in the O of Tone, provide any other use besides pulsing with the signal going through it? Is it a required aspect of the mod?
I can take a picture of my modded board if you like, but it won't be until tomorrow since I left the pedal at work :P
If I remember right the additional LED is used as a clipping diode, though in mine I kept the original 1N4148s because I think switching the caps makes it sound perfect then switching the clipping diodes takes it a step backwards. Just my opinion.
Sorry I took forever to do this, but I seem to have forgotten, then for some reason I remembered today. It looks like I used film caps for a few and monolithic ceramic caps for the rest. And I left the diodes stock because I thought they sounded better that way. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
(http://i.imgur.com/UdmK2cl.jpg)
That does help, thank you!
I tried the LED as the clipping diode, and I am not too much of a fan of it. I feel the distortion stays the same until you get to 9 o'clock, then it starts getting more crazy.
I accidentally threw the original diode away, so I guess I'll have to buy another to replace it. Now I'll have an LED wired to nothing.
Quote from: TimVanBoening on June 29, 2015, 08:34:53 PM
That does help, thank you!
I tried the LED as the clipping diode, and I am not too much of a fan of it. I feel the distortion stays the same until you get to 9 o'clock, then it starts getting more crazy.
I accidentally threw the original diode away, so I guess I'll have to buy another to replace it. Now I'll have an LED wired to nothing.
There are a couple circuits I like LEDs as clipping diodes for, but no more than a couple, and this is not one. I would definitely recommend sticking with the 1N914 (or 1N4148).
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 30, 2015, 05:26:02 PM
Quote from: TimVanBoening on June 29, 2015, 08:34:53 PM
That does help, thank you!
I tried the LED as the clipping diode, and I am not too much of a fan of it. I feel the distortion stays the same until you get to 9 o'clock, then it starts getting more crazy.
I accidentally threw the original diode away, so I guess I'll have to buy another to replace it. Now I'll have an LED wired to nothing.
There are a couple circuits I like LEDs as clipping diodes for, but no more than a couple, and this is not one. I would definitely recommend sticking with the 1N914 (or 1N4148).
Thanks! Yeah, I am not digging it. I will need to buy the part again and the LED will just be an odd addition to the pedal and not be wired.
Hey all! So I did the mod, and it doesn't seem to be working. Can you guys see if I did something wrong? Something as simple as putting a part in backwards? Thank you all for your patience and help!
(http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab211/TheRealTimVanBoening/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps14a9an9d.jpg) (http://s865.photobucket.com/user/TheRealTimVanBoening/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps14a9an9d.jpg.html)
Is this the photo you meant to post? This is from a Boss DS-1 distortion.
Edit: never mind, I should have read the thread before posting :icon_redface:
The mod is for the DS1. Check out he other pics
Quote from: TimVanBoening on August 16, 2015, 10:45:37 PM
Hey all! So I did the mod, and it doesn't seem to be working. Can you guys see if I did something wrong? Something as simple as putting a part in backwards? Thank you all for your patience and help!
Sorry to take so long to respond. My first question will always be:
1) Did the DS-1 work before the mods? If not, see general debugging instructions. If so, continue to next step.
2) Double check to see if you accidentally split any of the offboard wires (there are quite a few) during the modding. I have done this more times than I care to admit.
3) Are you sure your caps are oriented right? The directions call for non-polarized (NP) caps and these are what I use specifically so I wouldn't have to worry about.
4) Are you sure you got all the wires for the switches to connected to the right pads and not shorting to anywhere else on the board? This is always an important part of circuit bending, and I messed it up a couple times before I got it right.
5) Have you tested it outside the box? With all the wires running everywhere and an extra few switches the stock Boss box gets a little crowded and the chance of something shorting to the enclosure gets pretty high, so check this.
Let me know if you've checked all of these, everything seems right and it still doesn't work. I promise I'll be faster to respond next time :P I still have mine so if needs be I can crack it open and check voltages.
Hope this helps at least a little ;D
Welcome to the forum ;D What do you still have questions about? For this mod you need the following:
3 - .1uF (aka 100nF) capacitors
3 - 1uF nonpolarized capacitors
2 - .047uF (aka 47nF) capacitors
1 - 1.1k ohm resistor
1 - 1N4001 diode
2 - 5mm red LED's
3 - mini DPDT switches
soldering iron
solder
de-solder pump or solder wick (not essential but very helpful)
wire
stock Boss DS-1
More than happy to answer any specific questions you have about this mod. It's a relatively simple one and makes a HUGE difference in the sound, even without the circuit-bending switches it turns it into a legitimately useful distortion. 8)
Good luck! ;D
I shop with Tayda most of the time. They are very inexpensive, they have an excellent selection of components, and they ship to anywhere in the world. ;D
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/ (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/)
...and they regularly post a handy discount coupon on Facebook the minute after Nathan has placed an order. Isn't that right, "Whipping Boy"? ;D
P.S. The other place to check out is Smallbear (http://diy.smallbearelec.com/), of course.
Quote from: bluebunny on January 13, 2016, 02:56:26 AM
...and they regularly post a handy discount coupon on Facebook the minute after Nathan has placed an order. Isn't that right, "Whipping Boy"? ;D
Of course, there is that as well :P
Hi there!
I would appreciate it much if someone could explain me what types of capacitors should I use for this mod (soundwise mostly i guess)? I figured there are a few of them, like film, ceramic, metal paper, electrolytic (that's the one that is polarized, am I right?).
I'm new to all these, please excuse my fledgling questions)
Thanks!
Quote from: ebanipshada on January 17, 2016, 04:45:25 AM
Hi there!
I would appreciate it much if someone could explain me what types of capacitors should I use for this mod (soundwise mostly i guess)? I figured there are a few of them, like film, ceramic, metal paper, electrolytic (that's the one that is polarized, am I right?).
I'm new to all these, please excuse my fledgling questions)
Thanks!
Welcome to the forum :)
And this is a perfectly legitimate question even if you have been doing this a while. Soundwise there really isn't much difference between the different types of capacitors, and I'm always skeptical when anyone says they hear a difference. Electrolytic capacitors are not generally recommended for this mod because then you have to worry about polarity, and frankly you have enough to worry about without it. :P
Ceramic capacitors are not very widely used in pedals because, while they are dirt cheap, they can in certain circumstances go microphonic, making your build VERY noisy sometimes to the point of unusable. This isn't incredibly common nor is it very likely in this build, but I like to stay on the safe side.
My favorite capacitors to use are polyester box film like this:
(http://www.taydaelectronics.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/211x211/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/o/box-type-cap_45.jpg)
I'm also a big fan of mylar film, though many of the higher values (about 100nF and up) are often too big for many stompbox uses:
(http://www.taydaelectronics.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/211x211/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/Y/MYLAR-1_84.jpg)
I mentioned that ceramic capacitors are bad, but the exception there is monolythic ceramic capacitors, which have a film coating over them to reduce the possibility of noise:
(http://www.taydaelectronics.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/211x211/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/-/a-214.jpg)
Hope this helps ;D
Wow, thanks, that helps a lot! And that's a very thorough answer! :)
Now, if it doesn't say nonpolarized cap, should that mean that it necessarily has to be polarized?
Am i gonna be fine going with a polyester box film in either case (pol and nonpol)?
Did I get it right, that the general advise is not to mess with any diods doing this mod?
Thank you! :)
Quote from: ebanipshada on January 18, 2016, 09:47:22 AM
Now, if it doesn't say nonpolarized cap, should that mean that it necessarily has to be polarized?
Not usually. Smaller value caps (less than 1uF) are almost never polarized because it's not necessary, so they don't usually mention it. It's only on larger caps (1uF and larger) that they will specifically mention non-polarized.
An important note though is that polyester box, and indeed mylar film and ceramic are non polarized. The only caps that are ever polarized are electrolytic or tantalum. Everything else you don't need to worry about it.
Quote from: ebanipshada on January 18, 2016, 09:47:22 AM
Did I get it right, that the general advise is not to mess with any diods doing this mod?
My personal opinion is that it doesn't really add to the tone of the pedal so I don't recommend it, but everyone's ears are different, so if you do everything else and find that you still don't love it then you can always try it later ;D
Quote from: Justus24 on January 27, 2016, 05:26:25 PM
I think now what would help out is some specific hyperlinks to the parts that will work on tayda electronics. I checked out the site seems really well priced. Thanks for the recommendayche. Picked up my ds1 the other day, can't wait. Thanks, God bless.-pc
I've already procrastinated my physics homework a few hours, I can do it a while more. I even included two different options for each cap. Either one will work just fine, and in this application there is no difference, one is just a little more expensive.
.1uF capacitorhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html)
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-50v-multilayer-ceramic-capacitor.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-50v-multilayer-ceramic-capacitor.html)
1uF capacitorhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/1uf-50v-multilayer-ceramic-capacitor.html
.047uF capacitorhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/47nf-0-047uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-047uf-50v-multilayer-monolithic-ceramic-capacitor.html
They don't carry a 1.1k resistor, so I just used a 1k, as it's within a 10% tolerance.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-metal-film-resistors/10-x-resistor-1k-ohm-1-4w-1-metal-film-pkg-of-10.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-metal-film-resistors/10-x-resistor-1k-ohm-1-4w-1-metal-film-pkg-of-10.html)
I personally didn't feel like the diode swap was necessary and didn't like it, but in case you want to try it, here's these as well.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4001-diode-1a-50v.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4001-diode-1a-50v.html)
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5mm-red.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5mm-red.html)
Almost forgot the
SPDT switcheshttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-spdt-on-on.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-spdt-on-on.html)
And now I'll get back to my homework, until I get distracted again and come back :P
Good luck! ;D
I performed the mod a couple days ago and it worked, making me so thrilled! It's quite awesome to be doing something that cool with your own hands, very rewarding! 8) ;D
Thanks all for you help!
I'm very happy with all the stuff my pedal does when the switches are engaged, it's very much like in the videos. Though, i have a problem with the background noise when the switches are "off", both when the pedal is on and in the bypass regime. It's neither my guitar nor amp or cables, i've checked that with a stock ds1 that have. Must be something i did wrong modding. Do you guys have any idea what's happened and how to fix it? I'd appreciate your insight on that matter a lot! :)
Thanks!
Quote from: ebanipshada on January 30, 2016, 04:19:50 PM
I performed the mod a couple days ago and it worked, making me so thrilled! It's quite awesome to be doing something that cool with your own hands, very rewarding! 8) ;D
Thanks all for you help!
I'm very happy with all the stuff my pedal does when the switches are engaged, it's very much like in the videos. Though, i have a problem with the background noise when the switches are "off", both when the pedal is on and in the bypass regime. It's neither my guitar nor amp or cables, i've checked that with a stock ds1 that have. Must be something i did wrong modding. Do you guys have any idea what's happened and how to fix it? I'd appreciate your insight on that matter a lot! :)
Thanks!
Glad it worked out for you :) I have a lot of background noise on mine when the switches are engaged, but when the switches are off it is moderately quiet unless I have the gain cranked up high. So without the switches on this mod shouldn't really do anything to the background noise. When you compared it to the stock DS-1 did you use the same guitar, cables, power supply, and amp? (especially power supply)
QuoteWhen you compared it to the stock DS-1 did you use the same guitar, cables, power supply, and amp? (especially power supply)
Yes, all the hardware is the same including the power supply and it's not because of high level of gain either. That's strange, right, that when the switches are on it's fairly ok, but when they're off the noise is pretty bad? And you know, it gets lower when i touch the pedal or connectors, it gets higher when i get the pedal closer to the amp.
Quote from: ebanipshada on January 30, 2016, 08:03:08 PM
Yes, all the hardware is the same including the power supply and it's not because of high level of gain either. That's strange, right, that when the switches are on it's fairly ok, but when they're off the noise is pretty bad? And you know, it gets lower when i touch the pedal or connectors, it gets higher when i get the pedal closer to the amp.
That sounds like something may have gotten messed up during the mod. Can you post pictures of the pedal?
QuoteThat sounds like something may have gotten messed up during the mod.
Hi! Sorry for the delay!
My problem kinda resloved itself when I added a Keeley Ultra mod (don't know how or why :)) to my ds1 with a Synth Drive mod. And I like the new sound too!
Thanks for you help! ;)
Few questions.
Wire, solid or stranded?
Wire guage?
the mylar capacitors 100v?
About the non passive capacitor?
Thanks for your time. God bless you.-paul chavez
For God so loved the world that he gave His one and only Son, that whoever believes in Him shall not perish but have eternal life. John 3:16
Quote from: romans10:9 on May 25, 2016, 07:37:06 AM
Few questions.
Wire, solid or stranded?
Wire guage?
the mylar capacitors 100v?
About the non passive capacitor?
Most people will tell you stranded, I have some solid that I like.
Gauge is up to you; make sure it's big enough to not break, but small enough to fit in holes. 22 is a common choice.
100v is fine, but the pedal is running on 9v so frankly anything above 9 (usually at least 16) is fine.
All capacitors are passive, not sure what you mean there.
Hope this helps :)
pardon, not passive *polarized... anyhoo dont see a c1 slot on the board. also you an ideas where to find desolder wick online or stores? what size hole for the switches? and as for the hole with the light in three tone o, is an led added or replacing something?
thanks for your time again. God bless.- Paul Chavez
For God so loved the world that he gave His one and only Son, that whoever believes in Him shall not perish but have eternal life. John
3:16
Quote from: romans10:9 on July 02, 2016, 01:13:10 PM
pardon, not passive *polarized... anyhoo dont see a c1 slot on the board. also you an ideas where to find desolder wick online or stores? what size hole for the switches? and as for the hole with the light in three tone o, is an led added or replacing something?
I don't have my board in front of me, but I promise C1 is there. Desolder wick is pretty cheap on eBay, Amazon, etc. though I am sure there are others out there. I use SPDT switches from Tayda, which need a 1/4" hole. As for the added LED, that's the LED added when switching out the clipping diodes, which I personally don't care for, but everyone's ears are different.
Hello, can someone send a schematic of the wiring of the SPDT switches? The photo does not appear anymore
Welcome to the forum :) I should still have the instructions with all the pictures on my computer, I'll post it when I get home this evening.
Okay, I'm home now ;D And as promised, here it is. I am not the one that reverse-engineered this mod, nor am I the one responsible for the artwork, but as the unofficial keeper of this thread I can answer any questions you have along the way.
(https://i.imgur.com/5jsYch3.jpg)
Thank you for the picture!!!! I am going to perform the mod next week! If I need to ask anything I'll surely ask here!! Thank you!!!!
Quote from: vigilante397 on March 20, 2018, 08:55:45 PM
Okay, I'm home now ;D And as promised, here it is. I am not the one that reverse-engineered this mod, nor am I the one responsible for the artwork, but as the unofficial keeper of this thread I can answer any questions you have along the way.
(https://i.imgur.com/5jsYch3.jpg)
I'm glad someone reposted this. All of the sudden everything I uploaded to photobucket is gone because they want money to share pics. Buggers.
If anyone still cares i made a improved switch wiring guide. 99% sure is correct.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RN96VzHc/ds1-SYNTHMNOD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RN96VzHc)
Quote from: luizaq on July 29, 2020, 11:00:25 PM
If anyone still cares i made a improved switch wiring guide. 99% sure is correct.
I still care, thanks! And welcome to the forum :)
Did this mod yesterday. It is the absolute best thing ever. Thanks to everyone for the information.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYADlRHv7b1/?utm_medium=copy_link
Quote from: SprinkleSpraycan on December 27, 2021, 06:23:22 PM
Did this mod yesterday. It is the absolute best thing ever. Thanks to everyone for the information.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYADlRHv7b1/?utm_medium=copy_link
Looks great! ;D
C1- .1u
C2- 1uF (NP)
C3- .047u
C5- .1u
C8- 1uF (NP)
C11- .047u
C13- .1u
C14- 1uF (NP)
R35-1.1k metal film
D4-1N4001
Does changing these components have a huge effect on the outcome of the mod or can I just hook up the switches and wires?
It definitely changes the quality of the distortion. Gives a deeper and coarser quality to it. I'm pretty sure it helps give the synth tones from the switches their deeper quality.
Glad this topic popped up! I have a DS-1 on my bench at the moment. I was applying the Keely Mods. I think I'll give the JHS mods a try also.
Not sure if this is helpful to anyone here but, I rehoused some other circuits into some Boss DS-1 enclosures. This left me with three left over DS-1 PCBs. These happen to fit those 125B enclosures perfectly.
Here is a link to a blog post with some pictures showing the process.
http://www.super-freq.com/rehousing-the-boss-ds-1/
Here are a couple pictures. The footprint of the DS-1 PCB fits almost perfectly. You need to file the notches in upper corner a bit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CzPLzkzt/6-C74434-B-71-DC-4-A76-9-BB7-3-E465-A95-AB23-scaled.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzPLzkzt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFv8qDgJ/E1-F70858-B3-ED-4630-A072-13-E3-F1-DD3-C21-scaled.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFv8qDgJ)
Quote from: Derekjesse321 on January 01, 2022, 03:10:08 PM
Does changing these components have a huge effect on the outcome of the mod or can I just hook up the switches and wires?
You can hook up the switches and wires, but I would recommend swapping these components. I've done a couple mods for people where I just swapped the components and didn't add the switches, it makes the DS-1 a much better sounding pedal.
I heard this idea originally came from Brian Wampler. JHS sticking their name on it doesn't surprise me in the slightest.
Does anyone have the original Wampler Synth Mod?
IIRC the Wampler mod uses diodes to do a crude octave up, and when they are done together, the thing only oscillates and fully ignores the input signal.
cheers
My ds-1 seems to be a later model with smd components. Can I still do the mod?
Quote from: Derekjesse321 on January 20, 2022, 11:19:52 PM
My ds-1 seems to be a later model with smd components. Can I still do the mod?
That's a solid question, I've never seen one with SMD components. What does it look like inside? I wonder if the designators match up with the original or if they completely changed it.