ive just built my first LPB-1( from beavis) on perfboard and it works!! its hooked up to a breadboard for testing.
the only thing ime unsure about is how to wire it up to 3PDT switch and the volume pot. i usually use a wiring setup: from guitar pcb
1. if the output from my board goes to the switch, where do the 3 pot lugs go?
iknow one goes to ground -lug1 but ime unsure where the other 2 go
hope you can help
Wyn Stewart
The typical output volume pot is connected with pin 1 to ground, pin 2 to bypass switch (from there to output jack when pedal is engaged), and pin 3 to circuit output.
http://www.beavisaudio.com/schematics/Electro-Harmonix-LPB-1-Schematic.htm
Lug 3 of the A100k pot is wired to the 100nf cap (C2)on the output
Lug2 (the wiper) goes to the DPDT, 3PDT switch for true bypassing
Lug1 goes to ground
as for wiring the bypass
check out fig 8.1 here
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/SchematicToReality/
edit Gord beat me too it
Welcome to the family. Stompboxes are the new hotel california
Thanks guys for the help.
And it works! thanks again guys for the help
Brilliant. Glad to help someone for a change.
"You can check out anytime you like but you can never leave."
Alright! I was going to point you to the FAQ but it is broken. Will work on it shortly.
Quote from: Kipper4 on January 21, 2015, 12:21:26 PM
check out fig 8.1 here
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/SchematicToReality/
(Off topic but just because you attached it..)
I think that the third paragraph is rather confusing...
(http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah252/antonis_a/Beavis_zps91hxskol.jpg)
I know that many cases are difficult to be simplified without using respective terms (like Voltage & Current instead of how many times and how much) and also the point for biasing is quite confusing - but if I'll read it from a totally newbie point of view I think that I'll be totally confused...
P.S.
Just a kindly remark for improvement Beavisaudio excellent work...
Quote from: Kipper4 on January 21, 2015, 03:12:53 PM
Stompboxes are the new hotel california
"You can check out anytime you like but you can never leave."
what's on the breakfast menu at this hotel of yours, kipper?
Kipper and jam on toast, sausages and a gallon of strong coffee. Duck Arse.
Interested?
vegemite on toast and coffee, pass on the rest, thanks kipper.
You are a sick man DA 😛
> the third paragraph is rather confusing...
Agree. It seems to be partly op-amp thinking ("half of the 9V") and partly I-don't-know.
It is not easy to describe transistor bias in a few words, but I think making this passage less specific would be less confusing.
Hey everyone. I too just had my go at breadboarding the Beavis LPB-1 and the results aren't exactly what I was looking for. It has the boost that its supposed to have but there is so much buzzy hum coming from it and it increases as you turn up the pot in the circuit or the volume on the amp.
I have tried different amps, cables, guitars, and I have built and unbuilt the circuit. It really has me stumped. I have never breadboarded before so I am not really sure if this is typical. If I put one hand on my strings and one on the 1/4" plugged into the amp, the hum seems to go away.
Sorry for being a noob, but can anyone help me?
You'll probably find that when you put it in a metal enclosure, the hum will magically disappear. Be brave - box it! :) Or if you want to test out that theory without having to drill a box, try loosely wrapping it in aluminium foil (watch that you don't short anything), and connect the foil to ground (e.g. use a paper clip).
And welcome...
Quote from: Kipper4 on January 21, 2015, 03:12:53 PM
Brilliant. Glad to help someone for a change.
"You can check out anytime you like but you can never leave."
How about "We are all just prisoners here of our own device"?
hey chuck, check you have ground to ground, from in jack to out jack, and then back to circuit board.
Thanks everyone! I still need to order some enclosures but I will try the foil trick when I get home today. I have completed the BYOC Rat, installed midi into my Roland Juno 60, and fixed the cold solder joint on my Vox Continental organ, but actually make something from scratch, I am totally new at. I'm looking forward to honing the craft!
hey everyone, I put together the "Muff Fuzz" that was on the Beavis Audio and......IT WORKED!!! I was feeling adventurous so I thought, "hey why don't we liven things up and put 2 Muff fuzzes on the same breadboard, connect them and see how it sounds.
I didn't get the results I was really looking for. I moved the output jack to the end of the 2nd muff fuzz and I connected a wire from middle lug of the A100K pot to the first cap at the beginning of the 2nd muff fuzz. Logically this sounds correct. Did I wire it up wrong?
The sound I was getting from the 2 was a very quiet version of what I had with just one Muff fuzz and the A100K pot that was connected to the 2nd muff fuzz seemed to be doing nothing. I checked all the parts, they are all fine, I made sure all the pots were maxed out.
Any help? I was WAY pumped when I finally got the muff fuzz to work out, i wanna try and get 2, 3, or hell maybe 10.
so your first version works, but did you test your second by itself? it might be something more than just the interconnect gone wrong, so check your second output sounds same as first when you feed it clean input.
Quote from: duck_arse on March 08, 2015, 10:07:32 AM
so your first version works, but did you test your second by itself? it might be something more than just the interconnect gone wrong, so check your second output sounds same as first when you feed it clean input.
Thanks for the quick reply. I just tried them both out and both are good to go. I was really stumped last night. I tried again this morning and i noticed that on my breadboard that power doesn't go across the ENTIRE row of my breadboard. It stops halfway down the rail, then you have to jumper across to the 2nd half of the board. I jumpered and.........IT WORKS! Not only that, it sounds GREAT! I have already been trying different combinations of transistors. I have been a pedal user all my life, but now I think I am going to be even more obsessed with building, however, this early in the game, frustration is hitting pretty hard, haha
Quote from: duck_arse on March 08, 2015, 10:07:32 AM
so your first version works, but did you test your second by itself? it might be something more than just the interconnect gone wrong, so check your second output sounds same as first when you feed it clean input.
Hey, its me again, I was wondering if you could tell me what kind of switch that the double muff uses to switch from 1 muff circuit to 2 muffs cascading into each other. It is a slider and is 2 positions. Here is the schematic. I think the switcher is in the top right.(http://www.diystompboxes.com/Users/admin/Desktop/Double%20Muff%20(EC2010)-3.pdf)
(//)/Users/admin/Desktop/Double Muff (EC2010)-3.pdf/Users/admin/Desktop/Double Muff (EC2010)-3.pdf
http://ilovefuzz.com/viewtopic.php?f=151&t=23638 :icon_redface: I couldn't figure out how to post the pdf so here is a link to it.
to post an image, it needs to be an image file format. pdf won't do. then you post it to a hosting site, and they'll give you a link to the image. pick one for the right size of image, and direct to the image rather than the page it is on, then copy/paste into the tags provided by the (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/Themes/diytheme/images/bbc/img.gif). done.
from what little I can make out of that circuit, the output of the first is hard wired to the input of the second. a single pole, double throw (spdt) then selects between out1 and out2. the bypass switch then (half) connects to the common of the 1/2 select switch. a dpdt switch instead would enable dual led indicators, for on1 or on2.
and that breadboard gap has caught out some real big names around here, so don't sweat it. and good work.
Quote from: duck_arse on March 09, 2015, 08:00:18 AM
to post an image, it needs to be an image file format. pdf won't do. then you post it to a hosting site, and they'll give you a link to the image. pick one for the right size of image, and direct to the image rather than the page it is on, then copy/paste into the tags provided by the (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/Themes/diytheme/images/bbc/img.gif). done.
from what little I can make out of that circuit, the output of the first is hard wired to the input of the second. a single pole, double throw (spdt) then selects between out1 and out2. the bypass switch then (half) connects to the common of the 1/2 select switch. a dpdt switch instead would enable dual led indicators, for on1 or on2.
and that breadboard gap has caught out some real big names around here, so don't sweat it. and good work.
Thanks for the tips and the positive energy! I put in an order for a bunch of components last night and got caught up at looking at light up switches. I'm a sucker for lights, haha. I didn't get any switches yet so, as soon as I get offa here.