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DIY Stompboxes => Building your own stompbox => Topic started by: canman on February 18, 2015, 05:24:46 PM

Title: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 18, 2015, 05:24:46 PM
Hi everyone,

I tried to build Sabro's EchoBase layout a few weeks back and when I tested it I got bizzare sounds...naturally, it wasn't working.  I got dry signal just fine, if I remember correctly, but the wet signal was very strange.  Quiet, not really delaying, modulation would do weird things...the details aren't important.  Anyways, I benched it for a while, but now that all my other projects are done, I want to get this one working.  It's a cool delay from what I hear in the videos!

EDIT:  Suppose I should link to the layout, haha...

(http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/EchoBase.gif)

So, onto the voltages.  My TL072 voltages are both normal, and I believe my PT2399 voltages are OK too.  So I won't bother you with TL072 voltages, but if you guys wouldn't mind taking a look at my other voltages, I'd appreciate it:

PT2399:
1.  4.9
2.  2.4
3.  0
4.  0
5.  2.4
6.  2.4
7.  4
8.  4
9.  2.5
10.  2.2
11.  2.2
12.  2.5
13.  2.5
14.  2.5
15.  2.5
16.  2.5

4066:  (Keep in mind on this layout, it's upside down.  So pin one is the bottom right corner of the IC)
1.  .74
2.  .74
3.  1.3
4.  1.3
5.  1.48
6.  .66
7.  0
8.  1.39
9.  1.37
10.  0
11.  0
12.  0
13.  1.38
14.  9.4

5089:  (Top to bottom)
E:  0
B:  0
C:  5.2

5087:  (Top to bottom)
C:  .6
B:  0
E:  0

The voltage regulator is also working properly, giving me 4.5ish volts.  What's confusing me (and maybe this is supposed to happen) is D1...on the side that connects directly to the 9v supply, I'm getting 9.4v (duh).  But on the other leg, I'm getting nothing.  Is that supposed to happen?  I tried jumping the diode to see what happens, and my power supply starting flashing at me.  Tried a battery and it got pretty warm so I quickly disconnected the battery.  I thought this was weird, but is that supposed to happen?

Anyways, I'd appreciate if you'd give me your thoughts on the voltages I've got and hopefully point me in a direction to solving the problem.  Thanks!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 19, 2015, 12:52:40 PM
Something is very wrong with your CD4066 voltages. Pins 1, 2, 3 and 4 should all be about 5 Volts. With the base of the 5089 connected to ground, the bypass switch closed you should have about 9 volts on the collector of the 5089 and pins 5, 6 and 13 of the CD4066. If you've used a socket I would remove the CD4066 and then measure the voltages on the socket. If you get the voltages I listed above your CD4066 is probably bad.
If you get the correct voltages with the 4066 removed and want to test the rest of the pedal temporarily jumper pin 1 on the socket to pin 2 and pin 3 to pin 4, that will hard wire the effect on.

D1 is acting correctly, it's there for reverse polarity protection. With power connected the correct way it just sits there doing nothing. If you apply power backwards then the diode conducts, shorting out the power supply stopping the negative voltage damaging the pedal.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 19, 2015, 11:30:33 PM
OK.  I did some testing.

With the 4066 removed, I first checked the collector of the 5089...I'm getting close to 9v (8.8 or so) when the switch is in one position and the same reading at pin 5 of the 4066.  However, I'm getting .6 at pin 6, and about 7.5v at pin 13.  In the other switch position, I'm getting 1v at the collector of the 5089.

Pins 1-4 of the 4066 socket are reading 2v.  So, not quite the 5v you stated I should be getting.  Which tells me I went wrong somewhere, haha.  Obviously.  I should be getting 4.5v through R12 and R14, right?  Aren't they connected to the output of the voltage regulator? (In parallel?)
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 20, 2015, 12:25:54 PM
From your voltages I'm guessing you've got a cheap meter, the voltages you're getting are what you'd expect with a meter with about a 1Meg input impedance which is typical of cheap meters. What happens is the impedance of the meter affects the reading due to measuring the Voltage through large resistors. For example on pin 13 of the 4066 you've got a 220k resistor going to 9 volts, so when you connect your meter you're making a voltage divider from 9 volts through the 220k and then through the 1Meg input impedance of you meter. So you measure 9 * 1000k / 1220k = 7.5 Volts close to what you get. Same with pin 1 to 4 voltages you've got a 1M5 resistor from 5 Volts so you measure 5 * 1000k / 2500k = 2 Volts. So your voltages are probably fine and your meter is fooling you. You can test this by flipping the tails switch and then measuring pins 5 and 13 you'll hopefully find that the voltages switch and pin 5 becomes 7.5 volts and pin 13 becomes 8.8 volts.
I would jumper the pins I mentioned before and see if the rest of the pedal works, if it does then get a new CD4066.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 20, 2015, 12:44:21 PM
Wow, I'm extremely impressed...my meter is a $5 job from Harbor Freight I picked up just because I thought it would be handy, haha!  I've been seriously considering buying a better meter, I suppose now is as good a time as any. 

Anyways, I was literally about to jumper the pins you recommended and test the circuit and was checking here to double check what needed to be done and saw your post.  I'll report back in a little bit with my findings!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 20, 2015, 01:21:23 PM
First off...I tested pins 5 and 13 with the tails switch flipped, and as predicted, the voltages switched spots.  Interesting.  So one problem solved...I need to upgrade to a better meter!

Second...I hardwired pins 1 and 2, 3 and 4...when I plugged it in, I'm getting very strange results.  My dry signal works perfectly fine.  The wet signal...very different story.  It's a constant barrage of noise, if you will.  When turning the knobs, I can tell they are all doing something.  If I had a normal delay sound, I suspect all the knobs would be working properly.  I am getting a bit of delay, but it's not clean, and it's very hard to hear through all the noise.  When I turn the time knob and hit a chord, I hear it delay faintly through the noise.  So I know that knob is *kind of* working.  The level knob certainly works, because the noise gets louder as I turn that knob.  The feedback knob is doing something, because I can hear a shift in the noise when I turn the knob, and the rate and speed knobs for the modulation seem to work, because they make the noise get all wobbly.  The switches all seem to work as well, as they affect the noise...when I hit the humbucker switch, the noise gets quieter.  When I hit the mod switch, the wobble starts.  When I hit the dry switch, I don't hear the dry signal anymore.

So...I suspect that the 4066 may not be the problem, but rather something else that I can't seem to find.  I've switched out the PT2399 and I get the same result with other chips. 

Does the crazy noise make any sort of indication as to where the best place to start looking for the problem might be?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 20, 2015, 03:20:47 PM
I've seen that meter problem a few times, so it's quite easy to spot, definitely worth upgrading to a better meter.

First thing I'd do is double check that your level and feedback pots have a connection from lug 1 to ground, the level should go all the way to silent. If that connection is missing from the feedback pot the pedal will be self oscillating all the time and will make horrible noises like you describe. If they are both OK I would double check all the connections and the component values down the right hand side of the PT2399, a bad connection or wrong resistor value could cause the problems you're having.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 20, 2015, 04:11:20 PM
Update...this is really confusing me.  

I checked all the resistors, caps, etc. on the righthand side.  Everything looks good, reflowed the solder joints, and tested it out.  Still getting wild oscillation, but that got me thinking.

I built a Rebote 2.5 Delay with the feedback switch that gets you crazy oscillation, and I have the same switch wired up for the EchoBase.  So I held down the Feedback switch (it's a momentary stomp) and the oscillation went away.  Strummed strings while holding it down, and I'm getting delays.  It doesn't sound quite right to me, I'm sure there's more going on, but this seems to be part of the problem at least!  Oh, I also switched the two wires to see what would happen.  Didn't fix the problem, just made a different type of oscillation. 

So I tested all the knobs, they all do what they're supposed to, "ish."  The feedback knob starts oscillating VERY rapidly.  I don't know if that's normal, but after about 1/4 of the sweep, things start to go nuts.  

Also, when the modulation is turned off via the switch, the rate knob still seems to have an effect on the delays.  The depth knob doesn't.  When I turn the rate knob I hear the delays get weird, and there does still seem to be a touch of modulation even when the switch is off.  

With all this stuff going on, I don't even know where to begin to look for the problem  :'(

Thanks for all your help slacker, I really appreciate it.  I hope we can get this figured out!!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 21, 2015, 05:41:28 AM
I would try disconnecting lug 2 of the feedback pot and the disconnect the feedback switch, hopefully that should stop is oscillating if that's what it's doing. If that stops it then double check the values of R34 and R36 and check the trace cuts on the same rows as the feedback pot and feedback switch connections, a missing or partial trace cut could be feeding back signal.
I'm not sure about the modulation issue that's an odd one, with the modulation switched off the rate knob doesn't do anything and there should be no modulation signal. Hopefully this is just a result of whatever else is wrong.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 21, 2015, 07:02:33 PM
Almost excellent update!

With the 4066 jumpered, I tested what you suggested...disconnected the feedback switch and lug 2 of the feedback pot.  Fixed the oscillation, so I examined the board...nothing stared me in the face.  So I reconnected lug 2 (and HB switch, naturally) and everything worked, no oscillation.  Sounds GREAT.  Hooked up the feedback switch again, but put one wire on the opposite lug...no oscillation!  Seems I just stupidly wired up that switch backwards and didn't catch on until now, haha.

The not as excellent update...I put the 4066 back in, and in either switch position, I only get bypassed signal.  I replaced the 4066 with a different one and am getting the same issue.  So I figure I don't have two bad 4066's, I must have something wrong elsewhere.

Thanks again for the help, I really like how this delay sounds!  Now if only I can get the bypass switch to work!!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 22, 2015, 06:17:09 AM
Great news sounds like we're getting somewhere. What voltages do you measure on the CD4066 now?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 22, 2015, 12:23:34 PM
So when the bypass switch is in position A, I get:

1: 2
2: 2.8
3: 2
4: 2
5: 1.4
6: .1
7: 0
8: 4.9
9: 0
10: 0
11: 0
12: 0
13: 7.74
14: 9.4

And when the switch is in position B, I get:

1: 2
2: 2.8
3: 2.8
4: 2
5: 7.86
6: .8
7: 0
8: 4.7
9: 4.7
10: 0
11: 0
12: 0
13: 7.7
14: 9.4

I know my meter is cheap and is throwing off the readings as you mentioned earlier, but I'm not familiar with the 4066 so I have no clue what these voltages should be at.  How do these look now?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 23, 2015, 12:52:22 PM
Hmm, your voltages look correct. The CD4066 is four electronic switches, pins 1 and 2 are one switch controlled by pin 13 and pins 3 and 4 are another controlled by pin 5.
When the control pins are a low voltage the switches are open, so no signal can pass and when the the control pins are a high voltage they switches are closed letting signal pass. Position B looks like it's the on setting, pins 5 and 13 are high so the switches should be closed allowing signal through so I'm not sure why it isn't working.  It looks like the switch for the LED pins 8 and 9 is working, does the LED work?
I think the best thing to do is trace the audio signal using an audio probe and see where it is stopping, check for signal on pins 1, 2, 3 and 4, this should help narrow the problem down.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 23, 2015, 04:25:31 PM
Interesting...yes, the LED is working, as you observed it would be.  (I didn't actually have an LED hooked up, just wired one in real quick and it works)  The LED also pulses with the rate knob when the modulation switch is engaged, pretty cool!

I did some probing, mostly on the IC's and transistors because I didn't have a schematic with me while I was probing.  I'm getting sound through the top right TL072, but not the left 72.  I don't get any sound from any pins of the 4066, PT2399, or transistors.  (Definitely not through the 78L05, haha)

I haven't had a chance to look over the schematic and probe, I wanted to get this up real quick and see if you noticed anything out of the ordinary.  I'll see if I can follow the schematic and probe, but my schematic reading skills are not very good so I may require some assistance  :icon_redface:
Title: Re:
Post by: slacker on February 23, 2015, 05:29:14 PM
This is getting weird.  We know that signal was getting to the 4066 because when you removed it and jumpered the pins the delay worked, so where is the signal disappearing to now?
If you trace the signal you should get it on pins 6 and 7 of IC2 it should go to C6 and from there through a jumper wire to pin 3 of the 4066. Where does it stop?
What arethe manufacturer and part numbers on the 4066s? I'm wondering if you haven't got 5 volt parts by mistake.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 23, 2015, 07:06:10 PM
I agree, this is VERY weird...I probed everything as per your request, and now the signal goes all the way through.  But I'm not getting delays.  Here's the weirdest part...when I probe pin 3 of the 4066, I get no sound.  But when I probe the socket of pin 3, I get sound.  So then, when I do the same to pin 2, sometimes I get delay, and sometimes it's dead silent.  Again, probing the socket of these pins.  Probing the actual pins yields no sound, unlike when I probed IC2...I get sound right from the pin, as well as the socket.

What the heck??

The 4066 is labeled as CD4066BE, and I can't make out the manufacturer...it looks like some kind of EY?  Or E4 maybe?

The rest of the label reads 05AKZNM and then that weird EY thing (which is underlined).  I don't know if this helps?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 24, 2015, 01:22:10 PM
I'd ignore the fact you can't get a signal on the CD4066 pins for now it might be a red herring if the signal is making it to the delay it must be working. If it says it's actually a CD4066 on it then it should work fine on 9 Volts, you can get versions of the chip that only work up to 5 Volts but they shouldn't have the CD prefix.

Try tracing the signal along the paths I've shown here.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/50e873fc24a87108257c251ffe79300c.jpg)

Start with the green line, if you get signal there move on to the blue, then the yellow and finally red. With the delay on you should get signal on all those paths. Hopefully this will narrow down where the problem is, if it sometimes works then it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 24, 2015, 03:06:32 PM
Wow, I'm at a loss...I traced everything you suggested and reflowed all the joints along said traces.  Still only getting signal at the green line, nowhere else.

What I described earlier I may not have been as accurate as I should have been...if I strum while checking pin 3, and then quickly move to pin 2, I get loud delays.  But when I try to strum again while on pin 2, I get nothing. 

So now, when I strum pin 3, I'm getting very faint delays.  (This was after I reflowed all the solder joints)  I still experience the same phenomenon of moving quickly from pin 3 to pin 2. 

If I hardwire pins 1-4, the only downside is I wouldn't be able to use the tails switch, correct?  Having the tails isn't essential I guess...it's definitely one of the reasons I wanted to build this one though!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 24, 2015, 03:44:30 PM
If it works fine when you jumper pin 1 to 2 and 3 to 4, but doesn't when the chip is in the socket I can only think that it's a bad CD4066  or it's a bad contact between the CD4066 pins and the socket. The fact you can't get signal on the pins makes it sound more like a bad contact.
If you want, you could try temporarily soldering a jumper between the traces going to pins 3 and 4, or if you've got some alligator clips clip the two vertical jumpers going to pins 3 and 4 together. This will bypass that section of the CD4066 so if that's where the problem is it will temporarily solve it.

Any chance you could post some decent pictures of the board front and back?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 24, 2015, 04:43:19 PM
When I clipped the two vertical jumpers together to link pin 3 to pin 4, I got the faint delay in bypass, without having to probe pin 3...so that's good news, kind of!  The bad news is that the delays are really faint.  The time and feedback knob change the delay sound, but the volume knob doesn't.  Which doesn't make sense to me at all, because when I hardwire the effect on, the volume control works fine.  I also get sound straight from the pin 3 and not just the socket when I probe it, but again.  What??  :icon_eek:

Anyways, here are the best pictures I could get (my Dad has his nice digital camera stashed away somewhere, haha):

(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/jacobcanady/3C2E5DF7-7264-4BFC-A1DA-E2C7977FADBB_zpsam7fnxf2.jpg)
OK for whatever reason, the image is vertical...I rotated it in photobucket but it's not recognized here...weird.  Here's the link to the rotated image: http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jacobcanady/media/3C2E5DF7-7264-4BFC-A1DA-E2C7977FADBB_zpsam7fnxf2.jpg.html

This shot of the back is taken as if you were to take the image above and flip it over top to bottom, if that makes sense:

(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/jacobcanady/71C08C4E-2B87-4080-BEB3-8F0B662E42E1_zpsif5s3nlv.jpg)
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 25, 2015, 12:42:51 PM
I can't see anything obvious wrong from your photos, it all looks good all the soldering is nice and neat, connections look good.
The problem could be with pins 1 and 2 of CD4066 try, jumpering those with the CD4066 plugged in, you can connect from the vertical jumper between C10 and pin to pin 1, or if you can't get a clip on pin 1 connect it to Level pot lug 3.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 25, 2015, 02:40:45 PM
This build hates me!  I jumpered pins 1 and 2 as you suggested (had to utilize lug 3 of the level pot) and still nothing. 

I'm wondering if maybe this would be a better solution...hardwired the effect on, and use your tails daughterboard from this link: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=92036.0

Would that work?  Or is this a "hope springs eternal" situation?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 25, 2015, 03:11:27 PM
If it works fine when hardwired then yeah the tails board would work, that's admitting defeat though.

To me it still seems like a problem with the CD4066, could you measure the resistances between pins 1 and 2 and between pins 3 and 4 with the effect on and bypassed.
With it on both sets should measure something like 100 Ohms, with it bypassed one set should still measure about 100 Ohms and the other should measure at least 3Meg Ohm, probably more.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 25, 2015, 04:16:12 PM
Well, my meter has finally bit the dust.  It'll measure volts, but it won't do resistance.  I'm going to go pick up a meter later today and I'll post the resistance across those pins.

Thanks for sticking with me on this...I feel bad this thread keeps annoying the rest of the board here, if people would prefer we take this to PM's just say so!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 25, 2015, 09:37:35 PM
OK, I got a new meter (which I will be returning...I hate the user interface...gonna get a different one online I guess) and tested the pins.

The resistance across pins 1-2 in the off position would not give me a reading.  In the on position, I got around 85 ohms.

The resistance across pins 3-4 in the off position was about 85 ohms, and stayed the same in the on position.

Raise any red flags?
Title: Re:
Post by: slacker on February 26, 2015, 08:08:56 AM
I don't know if that's good news or bad news!
That's exactly what you should see and it means the CD4066 is working.
I'm a bit stumped now, it works when you remove the 4066 and jumper the pins, so everything else seems to be ok. The CD4066 seems to be working but when you put the two together the pedal doesn't work.  Apart from bad connections between the 4066 and the socket, I'm out of ideas.
Anyone else want to tag in :)
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: duck_arse on February 26, 2015, 09:44:10 AM
Quote from: canman on February 25, 2015, 04:16:12 PM
.... annoying the rest of the board here, ....

that's my job. is there a link to a circuit diagram I missed?
Title: Re:
Post by: slacker on February 26, 2015, 10:48:21 AM
The circuit is etched into my brain, I don't need no stinking schematic.
Googling "musicpcb echo base" will get you as close as you're going to get. The CD4066 uses different pins, the opamps might as well.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 26, 2015, 11:15:23 AM
I don't know if this makes a difference, but I don't use the standard opamp sockets...I just use these transistor sockets from tayda: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/30-pin-dip-sip-ic-sockets-adaptor-solder-type.html

I use them because it's easier to get links under the sockets, and it's also easier to remove the chip if need be, for me at least.  Could these be the issue?  Maybe making bad contact?  I've never had an issue using these before, but there's a first time for everything I suppose.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: duck_arse on February 26, 2015, 11:24:10 AM
tayda, huh? there must be some way to blame them.

try jambing a lead cut-off between each op-amp pin and socket, see if it is connections.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 26, 2015, 12:31:11 PM
Nothing inherently wrong with those sockets, worth trying what DA suggested though at this point I can't see what else it can be.

The schematic is here http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=42626&g2_serialNumber=1 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=42626&g2_serialNumber=1) The layout also includes some mods not shown in the schematic but nothing that has an impact on the problems canman is having.

Different sections of the CD4066 are used on the layout as follows:
Schematic       Layout
U4A                 U4B
U4D                 U4A
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 27, 2015, 12:54:09 PM
You guys are rad!!  I did as you suggested DA...stuffed some lead cut-offs in with the chip, the thing fired up right away!  I'll be sure to log that one into my brain...I had no idea those sockets could lack a solid connection.  Very interesting.

So, onto some more juicy stuff.  With humbuckers, the delays distort quite a bit.  I can kind of get clean distortions when I split the coil, but it's still a bit too crunchy.  From videos I've seen, the repeats are clear as a bell.  Is this something I can fix with a resistor or capacitor swap?

I also noticed that the feedback knob and switch are both pretty sensitive...is there a way for me to adjust that as well?

EDIT:  I found this in the original EchoBase thread, on page 109 ( :icon_eek:) http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=60662.540;wap2  Seems like these mods may do it for me, though I'm still uncertain about the distortion on the repeats.  I thought the humbucker switch in the vero layout removed the diodes from the circuit?  This switch doesn't really do much for the distortion, if anything at all actually.

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it!  This is a very cool delay and if I can get it tweaked the way I need it with my rig, I'll be extremely stoked!!!
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: slacker on February 27, 2015, 03:24:29 PM
Great to hear you got it working, it's pretty unusual the have problems with sockets like that, maybe it's a case of slightly loose or over sized sockets and slightly too thin pins on the CD4066, pretty unlucky what ever the cause.

If it distorts with the feedback at low levels or off, then the diode switch won't do much because it's the PT2399 clipping so the sound is already distorted before it gets to the diodes. Swapping R24 and R27 for 22k resistors should clean it up, a lot of people do that mod. Do that first and then try increasing R34 to tame the feedback pot and R36 for the feedback switch.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 27, 2015, 07:51:05 PM
Dude.  THANK YOU.  Seriously, this thing sounds AWESOME.  Thanks not only for the help, but also for sharing such a great circuit with the community (yes, I'm a little late to the party, but still...thank you!!!)

I replaced R24,27 with 22k as suggested (well, first I did 20k, and I couldn't get self-oscillation...not a huge deal, but all good delays can self-oscillate!) and it solved the feedback switch problem as well.  It still takes a little finesse to dial in the feedback knob, but that's not a problem.  The delays don't distort, they're clean as a whistle.  The modulation sounds fantastic, the feedback switch is actually a useful function now...seriously, thank you.  This is the delay I've been looking for!!!

You are the man!!!  You too, DA...without your clever idea I'd still be confused as heck!!

ONE QUICK EDIT:

I have noticed an increase of noise/hum since the 4066 started working properly, both when the effect is on and in buffered bypass.  I've got a ton of alligator clips connecting everything right now, and I notice when I put my hand over some of the alligator clip wires and the humming decreases...is this just hum that comes from the circuit not being boxed, or should I be looking for something that could be causing this noise?
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: bluebunny on February 28, 2015, 06:50:23 AM
Quote from: canman on February 27, 2015, 07:51:05 PM
is this just hum that comes from the circuit not being boxed

Probably (it's where I'd put my money).  Put it in a box and tell us!    :icon_biggrin:   My Echo Base is like a baby sleeping.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: duck_arse on February 28, 2015, 08:39:21 AM
canman, you've provided added weight to my "case against tayda", I'm afraid. the other day I was messing with some DC plugs from them, they wouldn't fit their own jax. then the plastic handles literally crumbled to dust between my fingers. switches, dc jax, dc plugs, those sockets .....

into the bin! as micallef would say.
Title: Re: EchoBase Help (Sabro Vero Layout)
Post by: canman on February 28, 2015, 04:21:25 PM
Quote from: duck_arse on February 28, 2015, 08:39:21 AM
canman, you've provided added weight to my "case against tayda", I'm afraid. the other day I was messing with some DC plugs from them, they wouldn't fit their own jax. then the plastic handles literally crumbled to dust between my fingers. switches, dc jax, dc plugs, those sockets .....

into the bin! as micallef would say.


;D

Glad I could help!  Haha!  This is actually only the first issue I've come across with Tayda stuff...I guess I've had good luck with them?  Every now and again they'll send the wrong number of caps, but I can live with that.  For someone like me, they're good enough, haha.

With the hum...I'm planning on boxing it up but I don't have a box for three stomps right now  :icon_rolleyes:  I have a 1590BB but I  think cramming 3 footswitches in it might be too close together...what do you guys think?