Hello,
I have been soldering from December and I am doing my 6th board now. I know it's not a lot but I am quite satisfied about my soldering and I think I understand the principles. Never had probs so far.
Lately, I started using open stereo jack sochets rather than these (http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=2713) and I had issues soldering my wires to them. Solder does not stick to the lugs. I warm them up but they get covered with what i think is flux: a brownish liquid. The same solder works perfectly with everything else.
I tried to scrape the brown thing off and start again. But nothing,I also tried to put some solder on the tip and put it against the lug. solder does not stick.
Could you please advise?
thanks
Hi Fed...try sanding the lugs lightly with something like 180 or 220 grit sandpaper! Just enough to they're not shiny and slippery...the microscopic grooves this will cause helps solder to bite!
Wipe them off with a clean cloth after you sand, hold the side of the iron against the lug so you are presenting it with a larger soldering iron surface...this will get it hotter. Hopefully you are using an iron over 20W in power? I could see having trouble with something small....mine is they typical 25W cheapo, and this always works.
Good luck!
If you haven't seen this vid yet, check it out. It helped me to understand what the flux is doing, how quickly it reacts and becomes ineffective, how important it is, etc. Also, when and where to touch the solder, the iron, etc.
^
no one beats Pace for tutorial even if its 50 years old
Years ago I started using the "high-tech 62/36/2 rosin-core solder" from Radio Shack. I don't think I've had a bad solder joint since, it seems to be a lot more forgiving.
https://www.radioshack.com/collections/maker-parts-kits/products/silver-bearing-solder?variant=5717828165
I have only ever used Radio Shack solder, been thru 10+ rolls now with no problems. I have used both the Lead-Free and leaded solders. I prefer the leaded, as it doesn't have to reach near the same temperature to get nice a flowing/sticky. Try different temperatures on spare parts to figure out what works best for you.
Hi feddozz,
Is normal be difficult to solder kinds of materials... Specially jacks. Here on Brazil we can find a thing that i don't know the English name, but should be something like solderpaste. You pass it the tin fix too much better. Maybe you can try it.
Pass sandpaper like GibsonGM mentioned is a nice idea too. If you make the two things... Is granted success ;)
(http://mla-s1-p.mlstatic.com/pasta-para-soldar-proskit-50g-no-ataca-plasticos-5365-MLA4326944128_052013-F.jpg)
Make sure if you use flux that is not contained in the solder you get the resin paste flux rather than the acid flux used for plumbing.
No matter what you do, it may just require more time to solder the open jacks. I find they take a long time to solder, too, with my variable wattage iron at a setting that is good for quick soldering of other components. I think the reason is that the open jacks kind of act as heat sinks, so it's just harder to get them hot enough to hold solder.
If you have a variable wattage iron that changes temperature quickly, you can just turn it up for the jacks. Mine takes too long to make doing that worthwhile.
Keep in mind that if you turn your iron up high enough to solder quickly to open jacks, and don't turn it down thereafter, you run an increased risk of harming other more sensitive components when you solder them.
A lot of cheap asian-made jacks (also tube sockets) have what seem to be chrome-plated solder lugs that don't take solder well. Sandpaper helps. Switchcraft jacks don't have this problem. I think they're nickel-plated, but I'm not sure.
My trick with those it to give the part more time to heat up with the iron before applying the solder. It's bigger than a normal lead so I reason it takes more time to heat up. Fatter tipped irons help to transfer the heat better as well.
This is why you MUST not skimp on pots and switches because they need to be sturdy enough to handle extended soldering times.
Heat's the problem - you need a powerful iron with a larger tip that can transfer more heat. The flux is being sacrificed before the solder can flow on the connection. I do a bad thing, and jack my solder station irons temperature up 50deg, which isn't the same as more power, but works.
> have what seem to be chrome-plated solder lugs that don't take solder well.
I have a strange thought. (Well, lots of them, but let's stick to the topic.)
I wonder if some of these lugs were traditionally made of "tin can stock". Big sheets are readily available anywhere they put fish in cans.
This is cheap iron coated with Tin to reduce rust.
Tin prices are funny (it's complicated).
In the last decade or two "tin cans" have switched to Chromium. The market for chrome is more diverse, and perhaps cheaper. (Maybe not per pound but for an effective layer which might be thinner in the harder chrome.) Yes, chrome usually goes over Nickel.... I'm not hep to all the cost trade-offs here.
Anyway: you can't solder Chromium with your usual tools and supplies. (I dunno how or even if they solder the can ends on.)
Often times I have had to sand or file right into such lugs to find something the solder will stick to. Sometimes I can cut into Copper (disproving the tin-can theory). Sometimes it is silvery all the way through, but an under-metal is somewhat solderable.
If a part gives you real problems, throw it out and get another part. Life is too short to be sanding/filing, applying acid flux and washing ALL the acid off after, making "ok" connections that fail at the Big Gig, etc.
I have a 50w soldering station with a pot for the tip temperature, so heat is not a problem. I'll try it with more heat.
I'll try sanding for this once.
I'll let you know as soon I find the time to try it.
Thank you all for the replies.