I've built a few pedals using vero board & once in a while i get a problem ,after it's all soldered in the pedal it & usually do a bit of trouble shooting the end if the board where the wires are usually soldered to usually one of them starts to lift ,I'm thinking 2 things , it would be better to use a softer stranded wire than 22 gauge solid wire i'm going to try 24 gauge stranded & use a bigger enclosure ,it would look alot neater in a 125b or a 1590bb .
any tips would be greatly appreciated. thank you
Other than "lighter" strained wire is the use of an amount of epoxy resin around the wire joints (continued up to parts side..)
Same for use of hard silicone resin (the one that comes trough heated gun)
I use Hot melt glue as a strain relief for off board wiring.
some people solder to the second-from-the-edge row of holes, then feed the wire back down and through the edge row holes to provide a strain relief.
also, too much heat/too many heats and the glue holding the copper will go cronk.
Quote from: duck_arse on September 21, 2016, 11:16:36 AM
some people solder to the second-from-the-edge row of holes, then feed the wire back down and through the edge row holes to provide a strain relief.
also, too much heat/too many heats and the glue holding the copper will go cronk.
yes adding an extra row set of holes on each side to add some strain relief is another good one .
Quote from: duck_arse on September 21, 2016, 11:16:36 AM
too much heat/too many heats and the glue holding the copper will go cronk.
:icon_eek: :icon_eek:
Haven't seen any pedal working inside an oven... :icon_wink:
Does
copperheadrods intend to have a live stage in real Hell...?? :icon_cool:
Quoteusually do a bit of trouble shooting the end if the board where the wires are usually soldered to usually one of them starts to lift
1) Make sure your soldering temp etc is correct.
2) Don't press down with pressure on the vero trace (or any type pad) when soldering as this will make it more likely to lift later. If you have the proper amount of tinning/solder on the tip, this will create a heat bridge lessening the urge to use pressure to get heat conducting.
3) If these are from de/resoldering, use some type of proper desoldering tool while still observing #2..
yes, use stranded, not solid... 8)
In all my years of soldering with vero, I've never had a problem with that. I always use stranded wire for the off board connections, and solid for the jumpers. The only time I've ever lifted copper is because I really heated the bujeezus out of it.
Wire dress would be secondary to my concerns, but important nonetheless.
For "suspects" or already lifted traces or pads you can use a small piece of heat-shrink tube on the wire jacket in conduct with part side of PCB to oppose lifting...