I could use a little debugging assistance. I've been using the 3PDT true bypass wiring from http://stinkfoot.se/archives/2233 for all my breadboarding. Works great with the battery wired right to the board.
I tried to add a battery, DC jack, and stereo input bypass, while using the same basic 3PDT wiring and it's not working properly. The LED lights when the switch is on and in bypass the signal passes through no problem. However, when the switch is on I'm not getting any signal coming through. Can anybody see what I screwed up? The top shows how I've been wiring things. The bottom is what I have now.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah106/Doug_Panzer/image_zpsl8fthg7h.jpg)
I use this 3PDT wiring (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nsvZ1rXQwes/TGh_1h4ClhI/AAAAAAAAAls/ty4oSUUYCSo/s1600/3pdtSwitchWiring.gif)
I just found this which might be good for your need for a battery: (http://www.taydakits.com/ckeditor_assets/pictures/190/content_dha9_wiring.png)
All the dc jack, battery, stereo input power switch stuff has nothing to do with the 3pdt switch.
I have to disagree with that statement. When you're using your switch to route everything it has everything to do with it.
I understand your point.
Looking at the drawing, the 3PDT switch connections appear to be the same...I would have to think the issue is with the dc jack/battery/ring wiring. Sorry that's not much help.
1: have you tested your effect board to make sure it is ok?
2: have you tested the lugs on your switch for proper continuity? Sometimes people heat up each lug for too long causing internal shorts.
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1) yes
EDIT: 2) Yes. Working fine.