Hi forum!
(http://www.taydakits.com/system/instructions/photos/000/000/086/large/DHE14_1.png?1448120323)
Anyone worked over a PCB transfer, or Eagle file to share??
Every kind of file are welcome: for 1590BB/1590B at sides, or Jacks in the upper side.
Thanks!
Cool! Are these available to buy somewhere?
Quote from: patrick398 on September 18, 2017, 09:21:12 PM
Cool!
For those who order pre-drilled enclosures..
(or use a CNC machine..)
Or have access to a 3D printer and make a center punch jig that slides over the enclosure.
Quote from: Plexi on September 18, 2017, 07:05:36 PM
Hi forum!
(http://www.taydakits.com/system/instructions/photos/000/000/086/large/DHE14_1.png?1448120323)
Anyone worked over a PCB transfer, or Eagle file to share??
Every kind of file are welcome: for 1590BB/1590B at sides, or Jacks in the upper side.
Thanks!
Yeah I built the same type of PCB's about 6 years ago, I will have a look to see if I still have any of the files and either post them or put them up on OSHPark to use.
actually, this is easy. But if you want ready to etch, maybe this suit you or give you ideas
credit goes to Daniel from handmades Brazil forum :icon_wink:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0NjnrdvQu1AVGhiOUdyVnFSUXM (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0NjnrdvQu1AVGhiOUdyVnFSUXM)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0NjnrdvQu1AQWNYSV9MUENIUlU (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0NjnrdvQu1AQWNYSV9MUENIUlU)
Im also waiting project from Mr Ice-9
287m, no need for me to upload another then, the one you have uploaded the link for is spot on. :)
Thanks everyone for your help!
The problem is that I haven't printer where I live now: not even an ink-jet one to verify that dimensions are correct :icon_rolleyes:
I only go to copy shop with a pen drive.
That's why I'm looking for verify and ready to print layout
I have a Diptrace project for a similar one. Jacks at the sides.
I ordered 10 to a proto PCB factory, and I only used 1. I had to manually fix some stuff to make it fit my project, but maybe you could use it as is, and modify slightly if you need to.
Let me know if you are interested.
Something like this one:
(https://s26.postimg.org/l5oko7cj9/Capture.png) (https://postimg.org/image/l5oko7cj9/)
(https://s26.postimg.org/yb42ub6et/Capture2.png) (https://postimg.org/image/yb42ub6et/)
No cable strain relief holes for the battery cable, you can add them easily.
I would probably do it differently now, but I hve 9 of them in my desk I will use before needign a new design.
I thought board-mounted jacks were the reason we started building our own gear.
Quote from: thermionix on September 19, 2017, 02:10:56 PM
I thought board-mounted jacks were the reason we started building our own gear.
Nope, not the reason I started building my own gear, when done correctly board mounted is preferable most of the time as far as I am concerned.
Thanks everyone again.
If the .pdf file and my plastic ruler doesn't lie: I would need some bigger than usual holes in the enclosure for the in/out jacks..
Would be a tight fit.
Quote from: Plexi on September 19, 2017, 03:12:19 PM
Thanks everyone again.
If the .pdf file and my plastic ruler doesn't lie: I would need some bigger than usual holes in the enclosure for the in/out jacks..
Would be a tight fit.
mmm... I don't remember needing bigger holes. Why do you say that?
> a 3D printer and make a center punch jig
Any woodworker would jig that up faster than the 3D printer would boot.
Maybe. I just saw seven different ways to jig joist hangers, and some of those must have been long thinking and trial/error.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 19, 2017, 02:34:20 PM
Quote from: thermionix on September 19, 2017, 02:10:56 PM
I thought board-mounted jacks were the reason we started building our own gear.
Nope, not the reason I started building my own gear, when done correctly board mounted is preferable most of the time as far as I am concerned.
I suppose I have a different point of view than most here because I don't use a pedal board. Just one or two loose pedals at a time usually. Cables get tugged, solder joints crack. I get literally tons of amps in for repair that have cracked joints on board-mounted jacks, pots, and tube sockets. Jacks more than anything, because of cable tugs. Actually, even normal use will lead to failure before too long.
I guess it's a good thing for those of us that get paid to repair these things. I see more of the Fender Blues/Hot Rod series of amps than anything, by far. Very popular around here, and very poorly constructed. The plastic input jacks on those things are a joke. The metal nuts will strip the plastic bushings if you torque them anything past finger tight, so there's very little strain relief to help protect the solder joints on the PCB. Oddly enough, they use hand-wired panel-mount Switchcrafts for the speaker jacks. They never fail.
Are there assembly issues with these boards? The few times I've done board mounted side jacks, there was no way to get the assembled pcb in the box, because the collar of the jacks has to stick into the hole a little, to be tight with the wall. Also the sides of hammond boxes are tapered a few degrees, so jacks mounted 90° to a circuit board end up being the wrong angle. The nuts go on crooked, relative to the side of the box. I've tried wedging the jacks up on one side, which worked better, but ultimately, to get the thing in the box, I had to solder the jacks to the board, in place, inside the box. Which makes it miserable to work on, because you have to unsolder the jacks every time you need to work on the pedal.
RG had a good principle, when I brought it up- keep your board mounted controls, and jacks on one plane. Here there are 3.
Quote from: potul on September 20, 2017, 12:47:17 AM
Quote from: Plexi on September 19, 2017, 03:12:19 PM
Thanks everyone again.
If the .pdf file and my plastic ruler doesn't lie: I would need some bigger than usual holes in the enclosure for the in/out jacks..
Would be a tight fit.
mmm... I don't remember needing bigger holes. Why do you say that?
I measure a few extra mm's than the enclosure width
Quote from: Plexi on September 20, 2017, 05:34:24 PM
Quote from: potul on September 20, 2017, 12:47:17 AM
Quote from: Plexi on September 19, 2017, 03:12:19 PM
Thanks everyone again.
If the .pdf file and my plastic ruler doesn't lie: I would need some bigger than usual holes in the enclosure for the in/out jacks..
Would be a tight fit.
mmm... I don't remember needing bigger holes. Why do you say that?
I measure a few extra mm's than the enclosure width
Ah ok, I understood you were thinking on hole diameter.
In the last build I did, it was a tight fit so I filed a little the plastic jack until if was fitting to reduce the stress on the pcb.It's still not perfect and probably not a good option for reliability, but good enough for my builds.
I printed and etched this. Looks good to me.
Here's the PDF I etched it from. It's duplicated - for use with transparent print sheets.
http://www.mrscolumbo.com/uploads/stomps/IO_utilityboard.pdf (http://www.mrscolumbo.com/uploads/stomps/IO_utilityboard.pdf)
I can see where the trouble is about opionions and experiencies.
And of course: there's a lot of troubles about this "all in one" method, with the most critical and movement (sometimes, rough forces) components/hardware.
Years ago, when I didn't was on DIY, bought an EHX's LPB brand new.
It stops working at week: tooked to a """technician""" and didn't found the trouble, "all the components and soldereds are fine, idk".
After revisions, was a cold soldered, the 3PDT was a micron "over" the jacks line/level, and when it lose tight, at first swtich pop: goodbye soldered.
Since that, I repaired 3 more EHX's, same problem...all Nano versions.
That's why they use now the 3PDT in a separated board, connected with a flat cable..I guess.
Anyway... here I'm, just trying to test thist method: what about only a board for the Jacks (I/O and power)?
My personal trouble is that I have a batch of generic jack's, very short pin, stereo, that I would like to use in a more ordered/tidy way.
(http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/SMALL/188/S1149552188.jpg)
Quote from: Plexi on September 22, 2017, 11:04:26 AM
I can see where the trouble is about opionions and experiencies.
And of course: there's a lot of troubles about this "all in one" method, with the most critical and movement (sometimes, rough forces) components/hardware.
Years ago, when I didn't was on DIY, bought an EHX's LPB brand new.
It stops working at week: tooked to a """technician""" and didn't found the trouble, "all the components and soldereds are fine, idk".
After revisions, was a cold soldered, the 3PDT was a micron "over" the jacks line/level, and when it lose tight, at first swtich pop: goodbye soldered.
Since that, I repaired 3 more EHX's, same problem...all Nano versions.
That's why they use now the 3PDT in a separated board, connected with a flat cable..I guess.
Anyway... here I'm, just trying to test thist method: what about only a board for the Jacks (I/O and power)?
Ok but MXR for example sell millions of pedals with all these bits on board, if they all failed because of board mounted parts then they would not make them like this, the problem for DIY makes is actually drill all the holes in the correct position thus not putting strain on the pcb. Get it all correct and reliability is as good if not better than any other method.