I got a powder coat gun for Christmas and have been playing around with it. One question I couldn't find an answer for online was about using waterslide decals under clear powder coat. So I tried it with a scrap of decal that the printer boogered up. Turns out the decal film gets yellowish with a weird texture. So, I don't recommend it, people. Next up: what about toner transfer under clear powder?
(https://i.postimg.cc/6T4SDxWC/20211231-172135.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6T4SDxWC)
It looks fine from across the interweb.
But don't you "bake" powdercoat? Probably past boiling water? I can't imagine any water-slide decals enjoying that much heat. (Hmmmm... the original decalcomanias were for china dishes; but I think they soaked dye into the clay.)
You are correct that powder coat is baked. I was interested in how it would hold up given that, for laser printers, you are heating the toner up to fuse onto the paper and what would happen. I had scrap decal and an experimental enclosure just kicking around, so I figured I would answer the question for myself. Just wanted to share results in case anyone else come searching on the ol' interwebz.
> for laser printers, you are heating the toner
True. The powders are nearly the same (polystyrene). But what is the clear carrier for water-slide? (I have no clue.)
There are water transfer decals for ceramic tiles that are meant to be fired at 700-800c, there might be something more pedestrian available that is still stable at powder coating temperatures.
The water slide I use (laser printer type) is on lacquer, and the manufacturer says it will tolerate printer drum temps up to 400 degrees F momentarily. Some brands are lower than that and will wrinkle at 390 F (my Brother printer runs at 392 F according to their help desk.) The water slide mfg recommends baking it at 200 to 300 degrees F for 20 minutes after application to cure and adhere it. I believe powder coat curing temps are 350 to 400 F for 20 minutes or so, which is marginal for water slide. I do know water slide will start to yellow if held above 300 F for too long (oops). I do usually run factory-powder-coated enclosures thru a 350 F cure before applying water slide, some (other than Hammond) will outgas and bubble under the water slide if I don't.
BTW, I was curious about spray paint curing and temp tolerance, so I checked with one manufacturer(Rust-Oleum) and their lacquer and enamel are both rated to 200 F. There's a specialty product (VHT brand) that cures at 200 F, then tolerates up to 2000 F if you're into pyrotechnics on stage.
I suppose that final result denepds on the decal type/brand and also time between application of the decal and baking (to allow any moisture to evaporate).
Here's my result - yellow base -> decal -> transparent
(https://i.postimg.cc/R6Cq0M2b/IMG-20210402-203445.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6Cq0M2b)
Great info, guys. Thanks for sharing!
Quote from: MikeA on January 01, 2022, 07:50:33 AM... ...There's a specialty product (VHT brand) that cures at 200 F, then tolerates up to 2000 F if you're into pyrotechnics on stage.
I suppose you know this. I remember when VHT was introduced. One primary target was automotive exhaust systems, also brakes. They may also have gone for woodstoves. Yes, you have to simmer/bake it in several steps before you can pour on the nitro. Today the product line has expanded to plastic and vinyl paints etc etc, but the 2,000 degree stuff is still in the list and available in 14 colors (I remember three). They were once a small shop, but now: "A division of Dupli-Color, Inc., a Sherwin-Williams Company"
https://www.vhtpaint.com/
Probably not much use here.