I'm wondering about this... Everywhere I look it says: "Bake the paint blablabla yada yada yada..." But why? What'll happen if I don't bake the paint?
it's not as strong and durable if you dont. for some people this is not
a concern though..... it just depends on what you want.
So I can just spray-paint my boxes without baking them, and I don't have to worry about paint coming off? I'm carefull with my pedals, so :) Cool :D
"So I can just spray-paint my boxes without baking them, and I don't have to worry about paint coming off? I'm carefull with my pedals ..."
The paint comes off relatively easy even if you bake it. Being "careful" with your pedals may not do it - it chips very easy. I would recommend baking. It does make it more durable.
But, chipped paint sure doesn't hurt the sound of your pedals AND they're your pedals. So if you don't want to bake it - don't.
AL
It's not that I don't want to bake it, just that I can't. I don't have a toaster oven, and even if I did I think the neighbours'd kill me for spreading stinky toxic fumes around...
I recently got a small toaster oven at a second-hand store, which I use for baking enclosures and making SMD boards.
The paint gets harder, but on *really* soft aluminium boxes it might just chip more easily - exactly because it's harder.
It does wear a lot better on good quality boxes, leaves a nice glossy surface that you just don't get without baking and apparently strengthens the bond between different layers as well.
Have a look at second-hand stores, dumpstores etc. You should be able to get a good one for 10 bucks.
It doesn't stink much though - not as long as you don't burn the paint. Ventilating well is a must though.
I'd advise against ever using that oven for food preparation.
I am a big fan of acrylic clear coat.... I put on 4-5 coats of it, let it dry for a day or so, and it turns out wonderful (to me, anyway!) Long ago I painted a guitar pickguard with acrylics (primed with enamel), hit it with a few coats of acrylic clear coat, and had no problem....
drew
www.toothpastefordinner.com
you ever try one of those wagner power painters.???
try this.. take your favorite paint color and mix in some elmers glue with it spray and bake as it drys.
also you can just spray regular paint on and after it dries put some elmers on and then bake it.. really nice clear coat that helps bond the paint. i also use an epoxy clear coat after that. and well lets jst say that my paint hasn't come off yet.
Pardon me my jolly fellow stompers but i think the multicoat/baking issue
is entire myth:
-the only thing that could be 'multicoated' is the undercoat (and not more than two times).
-several coats of paint doesn't make it harder, only makes you get some kicks (and that is not bad afterall) inhalating thinner's vapors. Clearcoat is especially fragile in multiple sprays (that's why those candy-apple hotrods never get outta their garageshack, a single fingernail can ruined their metal make-up)
-it only tends to last longer only because "tha most it shiney, tha less ya stompin' on a" (due to the vast amount of time you've spend on the painting job you're unconsciously retaining the heavy led of your foot!)
-baking is a good idea (it plainly kicks the thinner out) but in an hoven might not be a good idea: automotive paints (generaly superior quality glyceroes, same in spraycans but ten times cheaper) are 'baked' up to 60° celsius for half an hour so that can't be called 'bakery'. The cooling is also important and shall be very slow (so at least let it cool in the hoven when the baking's over)
-remember, paint is primaly here to protect metal from rust, and secundo to be a shoegazer's mirror from planet narcissus...
-just stick to one undercoat and 1 spraycan pass if you're not addicted to chemicals yet (did some sayz 'glue'!) and when it has come off, just a few strokes whith the sand-paper and spray a new color on it (or stick to raw copper or aluminium)...
-BAREFOOT STOMPIN' (only way to stick with the shine) as they say in St'Tropez!
I could actually refrain from stomping the box, and kneel down to press the switch each time. If you do it fast it'd make for cool gigs, everyone would be wondering what the hell the guitarist is doing on his knees :mrgreen:
yeah, or get a nasty all-purpose switchbox and plug it into it. So we could no more call it a stompbox but a 'watchbox' (i like your 'touchbox' idea too!)
Yeah, but with a big switchbox the whole need for painting is gone... I'm the kinda guy that likes to flash his pedals around, :D the ignorance at school always judge a pedal by how it looks. If it's nice shiny red, it'll probably sound good, even if it doesn't... If it's unsanded cast aluminium, they're gonna say it sucks, no matter how expensive and professional the circuitry is... :roll:
Quote from: smoguzbenjaminYeah, but with a big switchbox the whole need for painting is gone... I'm the kinda guy that likes to flash his pedals around, :D the ignorance at school always judge a pedal by how it looks. If it's nice shiny red, it'll probably sound good, even if it doesn't... If it's unsanded cast aluminium, they're gonna say it sucks, no matter how expensive and professional the circuitry is... :roll:
exactly.. only a true musician who goes by his tone not the beauty of the outsides. i used to have the same problem with my first pedals until i plugged them in.. heh heh heh
all nay sayers were gone after that :)
I'm suprised nobody has tried 'dipping' boxes in that rubbery stuff that you use to give metal tools a handle grip. It gives a thick soft (but very durable) coat.
Plastidip! :) Hehe.... They also make it in spray cans. Several colors too...
-Peter
The whole painting and finishing issue comes up a lot and it's an important one to me too. Actually, I'm having a hard time dealing with it. I'm getting good results with spray lacquer and decals but the time spent is not effective. I'm now considering investing in the setup cost to have boxes powder coated and silk screened. Since I work for a company that has some electronic products done this way I have the contact information and now it's just a matter of spending the money. I can't wait to let someone else do the dirty work and I'll also be happy to see boxes that look as good as they sound. The time spent doing them by hand has helped me to decide on color schemes and graphics anyway.
Quote from: smoguzbenjaminYeah, but with a big switchbox the whole need for painting is gone... I'm the kinda guy that likes to flash his pedals around, :D the ignorance at school always judge a pedal by how it looks. If it's nice shiny red, it'll probably sound good, even if it doesn't... If it's unsanded cast aluminium, they're gonna say it sucks, no matter how expensive and professional the circuitry is... :roll:
Actually,I remember showing a homebuilt box to a bunch of coworkers. They were really excited about the unfinished aluminum, and so ambivalent about the actual effect, I thought about selling "guitar enhancers" - an unfinished aluminum box with a stomp switch and an led.
For real - people offered me money to put their RAT pedals into a hammond enclosure!
Quote from: Paul Perry (Frostwave)I'm suprised nobody has tried 'dipping' boxes in that rubbery stuff that you use to give metal tools a handle grip. It gives a thick soft (but very durable) coat.
I've thought about that. I was worried that the rubbery stuff would be quick to accumulate that stage grime/beer- dirt paste stuff that grows on rock club floors. :D
Maybe it would be good for isolating metal cases from ground as in direct boxes and isolated splitters?
Greg