I have wanted to do this for a while, and I finally pulled it off! I have had thoughts to cover an enclosure with some kind of whacky, colorful fabric, but wasn't quite sure how to do it. After doing my fabric topped guitar project, http://www.diyguitarist.com/Guitars/SuperStrat.htm , I learned just how to go about something like that. So I decided to try it today on a stompbox project, and it turned out pretty well for a first effort. I used hand painted lettering in a fashion similar to Z. Vex pedals. Even so, it's up to par with my standards.
The enclosure clear overcoat is still curing, so I will have to post a picture of it tomorrow sometime. 8)
Ok, here is a few pics. The successive coats of clear overspray has darkened up the white part in the fabric a little bit and gave it a slight yellowish tint, but I still think it looks cool. I think most of it will clear up when it has fully cured in 24-48 hours. In spite of that, I am really happy with the way the seams on the corners turned out. You can't see any ridges where the edges meet.
(http://www.diyguitarist.com/Images/WildThing1.JPG)
(http://www.diyguitarist.com/Images/WildThing2.JPG)
(http://www.diyguitarist.com/Images/WildThing3.JPG)
The circuit is a MOSFET booster.
That is one cool looking pedal. Nice job.
Hey Paul, that looks fantastic! Great work again, and I love the "guts" shot.
As a side note, here's (http://diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=16500&highlight=fabric+ansil) a thread that Ansil made awhile ago about his experiences with using fabric to cover a box (the link is dead, but he discusses it thoroughly).
Alex
hey that looks seriouslly nice man. im not too keen on the actualy graphics tbh but it looks very professional
Thanks all. As far as the material goes, I just used whatever I had lying around since it was my first attempt. I actually looks a little better in real life, but my crummy camera doesn't take the greatest pictures....
Here's how I did it:
1 Cut out the material to rough size. Ironed it nice and flat with the iron on the hottest setting and a spray bottle with water in it to smooth out the wrinkles.
2 Glued it to roughed up enclosure with some 3M spray adhesive.
3 For the bottom edges, I used super glue to ensure that the fabric couldn't peel off at the edge. For the rounded, vertical edges, I also used super glue to glue the seams together. Next, I used a exacto blade to trim the seams and edges down as close as possible to the level of the enclosure.
4 When adhesive was set, and all seams/edges were ready, I coated the fabric with a thick coat of sanding sealer. Then sanding. At this stage, the seams on the vertical edges were already flush with the surrounding areas. At this point, I painted on the lettering by hand with some acrylic paint.
5 Then, three successive coats of polyurethane, sanding between each coat. Final coat will be hand buffed.
The end result is a pretty tough finish that can look really cool. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't. It just takes a little time waiting for things to dry...
This method can open up a lot of doors for unusual finishes. The only hard part is doing lettering that looks good. :oops:
that's a reaaly cool looking pedal paul
WOW!!!!!
Very nice work Paul, congratulations!
The interior looks fantastic too. ;^)
Thanks Burstbucker. I hardly ever use batteries on anything that I build, but on this one I decided to use one for various reasons. 8)
BTW, I think this is about build #30 or so...
That looks FXXX'n GREAT !
And no nasty paint fumes !. . . . well just some clear coat ones :wink:
Well done !
Marty.
Well, actually, lacquer sanding sealer smells way worse than paint, and it gets a lot more complaints from the wife... :cry:
But, thank goodness, it dries pretty fast.
I've often wanted to try covering a box in FIMO clay... baking it, then removing it and gluing it on. It's pretty resilient, it's almost a bit soft after baking so it shouldn't chip. You can make all kinds of neat things rolled into fimo for some really trippy patterns. I might have to try it tonight.
I think next time I'll try Ansil's method of fiberglass resin. The stuff I used doesn't dry real clear, it has a bit of a yellowish tint to it. :( Although, it has brightened up a little bit since yesterday morning, but not a whole lot.
The other thing is that light colors, especially white, can be difficult to work with because when you apply the sanding sealer on it, whatever is underneath it can show through the fabric. I think next time I will use something that doesn't have "pure" white in it. On the other hand, on the pattern I used, the dulling of the white portions makes it less loud...
That box looks really good! Excelent work!
Luck
Miguel
How about a close up of the seams? I can't really make them out from the picture and I'm interested in how well they come together. Did you overlap and then trim? or did you meassure it all out and cut it beforehand?
I meant to take a close-up picture of the seams, but forgot. To do the vertical edges, I just folded it together rather like a napkin at a restaurant. Then I cut that extra material off with some scissors, leaving a little standing seam. Then that was trimmed as close as possible with an exacto blade and then super glued. You can't see the edges of the seam at all. It turned out very well. I didn't do any measuring beforehand other than just a very rough sizing up of how much material was needed.
I'll post a close up of the seams later on tonight, after I get home from work.
OK, here is a couple close-ups of the seams. The second picture is an attempt to show that there is no visible hump where the seam is.
(http://www.diyguitarist.com/Images/WildThing4.JPG)
(http://www.diyguitarist.com/Images/WildThing5.JPG)
Quote from: Paul Marossy...when you apply the sanding sealer on it, whatever is underneath it can show through the fabric...
Couldn't you just prime the box ahead time? Just a suggestion.
Your box looks wonderful from here! I might have to abandon my paint job on my latest build for some fabric!
What's the "Lacquer Sanding Sealer" you use? I'm unfamiliar with that term...
Quote from: Paul MarossyIt turned out very well. I didn't do any measuring beforehand other than just a very rough sizing up of how much material was needed.
Dang it, Paul, why does it always have to be this way with you? "I just kind of eyeballed it, and it came out perfect! Again!" I mean, it's happened to you 30+ times, isn't it my turn? :D
Alex
QuoteWhat's the "Lacquer Sanding Sealer" you use? I'm unfamiliar with that term...
I believe it is made by Deft. I got it at Lowe's. I don't know if lacquer sanding sealer is different than sanding sealer, but that's what it says on the can. I thought of priming the box, but the actual color of the glue can show through the white. The material is pretty thin, so that makes it a litle more problematic.
QuoteDang it, Paul, why does it always have to be this way with you? "I just kind of eyeballed it, and it came out perfect! Again!" I mean, it's happened to you 30+ times, isn't it my turn?
LOL. Well, I dunno, I guess I got a magic touch? I am also a little surprised at how the seams turned out. I really didn't take any great care in trying to make them perfect or anything. But, I do have a little experience in covering amp cabinets now, and I have used spray paints quite a bit when I was building plastic models and such, so I guess all those things helped me out on this project. And my fabric covered guitar project gave me the idea for how to do the fabric covered stompbox enclosure... 8)
EDIT: Actually, I just remembered that I did the seams while the glue was still tacky, so while I was cutting it with the scissors, it actually would draw the fabric together as it was cutting. That made for a decent seam with little work to finish them off.
Well, I had been painting my latest build (Ross compressor), but was unhappy with the results. When I saw Paul's box, I just had to try it. I sanded the paint off, sprayed it w/ 3M spray adhesive, and fit the fabric on the box. I then cut off the corners straight after, while the 3M was tacky, and put one side of the cut under the other. A lil super glue on the seams, as per Paul's suggestion.
Then, I deviated from other discussions here. I just brushed on some oil-based polyurethane on the box, and let it soak through the fabric (and presumably onto the sanded part of the box). It's drying now! Definitely yellows everything up, but I don't mind: looks cool!
After sanding, the whole deal took me ~1 hour, including waiting for the super glue to dry at the seams. Wow. IMHO, its much easier than painting, and you get cooler-looking results with ease.
For the fabric, I just used an old bedsheet I had been using as a dropcloth (some old bedsheet from when I was a kid in the 70's. Noah's Ark. Awesome lookin'.). I don't have a digital camera, but my folks are stopping by with one tomorrow (for something else). I'll try to snap a pic and post it here.
Thanks for the tip, Paul!
bigjohnny-
Yeah, in a way, it is almost easier than painting a box, huh? I think that the polyurethane is the culprit. Actually, the sanding sealer has a yellowish tint to it as well. Anyhow, I'm glad that you could glean something out of this thread. 8)
I just did the 2nd coat -- even more yellowing happening, but no big deal. What was more apparent on the second application is that you really CAN see that aluminum through the thin fabric. I believe priming would be a big help in preserving the brightness of the fabric. However, in this case, I don't mind the fabric dulling up b/c it was contrasty to begin with. When I take a pic, I'll take it on atop the bedsheet I cut, so y'all can see the difference.
Quote from: Paul Marossyin a way, it is almost easier than painting a box, huh?
I spent many years mounting photos with a sort of rub-on-under-wax-paper adhesive to thick cardboard, as well as tacking down T-shirts for screen printing, so Spray Adhesive and I are old friends. I found the entire process to be wonderfully easy. Nice one, Paul! (also, I should say thanks to Ansil for his thread reference in this one).
Quote from: bigjonnyI just did the 2nd coat -- even more yellowing happening, but no big deal. What was more apparent on the second application is that you really CAN see that aluminum through the thin fabric. I believe priming would be a big help in preserving the brightness of the fabric. However, in this case, I don't mind the fabric dulling up b/c it was contrasty to begin with. When I take a pic, I'll take it on atop the bedsheet I cut, so y'all can see the difference.
Actually, all polyeurathane has a yellow-ish tint to it. Primering underneath the cloth probably won't do too much to help it -- You might go to a paint store and see what they would recommend -- off the top of my head I'm thinking tons and tons of gloss lacquer...
bigjohnny-
Just for the record, I didn't even know about Ansil's fabric covered box. Not until I was made aware of it earlier in this thread. Next time I think I'll try the fiberglass resin, or many coats of gloss lacquer.
wampcat1-
I didn't know that polyurethane had a yellowish tint to it. I thought it was the sanding sealer that was the main culprit. But, I did notice that with each successive coat of polyurethane, it got a little more yellowish. It does seem to clear up a little bit over the course of a few days, but just a touch. For things that don't have "pure" white in them, my method I think works to my satisfaction. With whites, I am going to do the fiberglass resin and see how that works. I'm sure this won't be my last fabric covered creation... 8)
Quote from: Paul Marossybigjohnny-
Just for the record, I didn't even know about Ansil's fabric covered box.
No offense or discrediting of your wonderful idea was intended, Paul. My reading of Ansil's thread (http://diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=16500) inspired me to deviate from your method and just drop polyurethane on my box, as I have that readily available in my house. Should have made that more clear. However, "for the record", it was your beautiful pix that got me going in the 1st place!
Quote from: wampcat1Actually, all polyeurathane has a yellow-ish tint to it.
Thanks for the pointer, wampcat1. Good to let the people know. I was well aware of the yellow-ness of polyurethane. However for those who don't know:
oil-based polyurethane has a fairly severe yellow-ish tint (this is what I used). If you coated a color photo with it, it'd look like you took it in the 60's. Water-based polyurethane, may have a
slight yellowish tint, but its quite negligible. The advantage of oil-based polyurethane is that it is rock-solid once it cures. Water-based polyurethane is an excellent product, but is weaker (e.g. water-based polyurethane is only appropriate for interior use, whereas oil-based polyurethane can be used for exterior use). I have both at home; I just figured if I was going to have my foot hovering around something, I'd want it as hard as possible.
BTW, OT, but related: the same water/oil characteristics are true in paint. I only use oil-based paint for doors and shelves at my home b/c it dries so hard and durable. Latex (water-based) paint a wondeful product, but not as good as oil-based in certain situations. Oil has the disadvantage that b/c it is so rigid, it cracks as it ages (It can only take so much of the wood underneath it compressing and expanding; BTW- its also a pain to clean up), whereas the Latex membrane stretches as wood compresses/expands. Latex can potentially last longer than oil, if not abused.
Stomboxes should be abused, however. :twisted:
O ya, with regards to the whole "priming" deal:
With polyurethane, you are essentially soaking the fabric through so that it sticks the fabric to the box, like a wet blanket. Any thin cotton fabric will get a bit transparent and show whatever its sticking to when wet (not to be crude, but isn't this the principle behind wet t-shirt contests?).
When I soaked the sheet, the gray tint of the aluminum showed through, thus causing a dimming of the overall material. Had I primed the box, it would have soaked through to white. The appearance still would've yellowed (due to the polyurethane), but the overall brightness would have been better preserved.
BTW - pix on the way. I used my pop's camera, but I gotta wait for him to get home and email the pix to me as he didn't want to bring his cable (long story).
The pix, as promised. As I said, this WAS being used as a dropcloth, so you can see a couple flecks of paint on the fabric on the box. After sanding down coat #2, I put on coat #3. This was shot while coat #3 is drying, so couldn't/didn't fit any of the hardware. You can see the original bedsheet in the background. The third image here is a (blurry) detail of the original sheet. In pic #3, you can see the Ark's dark blue before polyurethane application. In pic #2, the light blue on the right-most side of the pic is the same color as the "sky" on the box was.
Pic #1:
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-01.jpg)
Pic #2:
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-02.jpg)
Pic #3:
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-03.jpg)
Ok, well, no more digital camera, but I took a few pix with my webcam with the hardware mounted:
Noah atop his former surroundings:
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-cap_001.jpg)
Misc. shots
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-cap_002.jpg)
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-cap_004.jpg)
Finally, Here's polyurethane Noah, vs. original Noah:
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/diy/ross-cap_005.jpg)
That should be all my posts in this thread! Sorry to take over your thread, Paul.
bigjohnny-
That's cool, no offense taken. I didn't even know that there was an oil and water based polyurethane. :oops: Thanks for the tip on that.
BTW, cool stompbox you got there. 8)
Just wanna say that these are rally good looking pedals -I've got to try that my self
Quote from: Paul MarossyI didn't even know that there was an oil and water based polyurethane.
Ah. Just thought of something that might cause confusion: the polyurethane *I* used was the brush-on kind. NOT the spray-on. I think ALL spray-on is oil-based. Brush-on can be either, so be sure you read the label.
I ended up using a brush/spray combo to finish my box: used the brush-on on the 1st pass (that way the fabric got nice & soaked). I continued to use brush-on (just cuz it was easy), until I labeled the box. Then I used spray on, so as not to risk running the Gel-ink I labeled with (Got the Gel-pen idea from CommonSound (http://www.commonsound.com/), methinks). All-in-all, I think its five coats: 3 brush-on; 2 spray-on. Always sand between coats: 240 grit or higher. Last coat, I buffed w/ fine steel wool. That fabric ain't goin' nowhere.
Once, I used brush-on polyurethane with a Sharpie-on-paint. That didn't end pretty, though I am sure Sharpie+spray-on-polyurethane would be fine, with several light dustings.
One more thing I should mention that was different from Paul's method, is I folded my fabric over the bottom edge of my box (~1/2") to prevent fraying. After the 1st polyurethane coat dryed, I flipped the box and soaked the 1/2" edges, so they'd be good-and-stuck to the box as well.
Anyhow, gonna button this sucker up today. I'll post pix, if I can.
Thanks for the compliment, Paul.
QuoteOne more thing I should mention that was different from Paul's method, is I folded my fabric over the bottom edge of my box (~1/2") to prevent fraying.
That is what I was going to do at first, but the super glue along the edges pretty much prevents the fabric from getting frayed. After the sanding sealer and polyurethane were applied, there's no chance of the material getting frayed. 8)