Well, here are some pics of my new pedalboard.
I was inspired by the "building of Gilmour pedalboard pics" in Cornish site, so I decided to build something like that myself.
Anyway, I did it my own way.
For example, I don't exactly agree about all the buffers stuff. I do think if the cable is too long and you're not using a buffer you can lose some signal, that's why I put ONE buffer int he input of the pedalboard. But then the rest of the pedals are true bypass. Actually, there's a toggle switch in the rear side to bypass the buffer too if wanted, so everything is true-bypass.
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-1.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-2.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-3.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-4.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-5.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-6.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-7.jpg)
So, the signal goes:
- First into the buffer. Actually, the buffer makes 4 copies of the signal. One of them goes to the pedals chain, another to the tuner (Korg DT-10), another to an output (to feed my talk-box) and another one unused (for the moment).
- Dynacomp. Built from tonepad's schematic.
- Loop #1. Send and return are switcheable for reversibility. I use this loop for the wah-wah, and the reversibility for "Echoes".
- Fuzz Face: built from fuzz central schematic, with extra "smooth" control.
- Big Muff: built from generalguitargadgets schematic, modified with an extra pot for mids.
- Tube Driver #1
- Tube Driver #2: Both built from "shredgd" PCB. (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44779.0)
- Here there are two pedals, switchable between them with a toggle switch. A Phase90 (with a toggle switch to be "Script" mode without feedback resistor or "Block" mode) and a Uni-Vibe sounding pedal (Lovepedal MagicBoy).
- Other two pedals now, switchable with a toggle switch. A Electric Mistress (non deluxe) built from Markusw's PCB (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44582.0), and a BOSS CE-2, built from tonepad's schematic. This one doesn't have any pots, it has two internal fixed pots, cause I wanted it for a certain sound and wasn't going to change it.
- BOSS Eq GE-7, modified to make it less noisy.
- Loop #2. Used for the volume pedal.
- Delay PT80. Built from generalguitargadgets schematic. I added a switch for extra filtering to simulate older tapes, and a rotatory switch for "programmed" speeds. I NEED this, cause we play some songs with a fixed tempo, so I put a 12 positions rotatory switch that feeds 11 internal trimmers plus the outside speed knob. I "programmed" these 11 settings and the 12the positions is for the outside knob. Pretty useful.
I wanted to have light in the pedalboard, to see in a dark stage if I want to adjust something (my band plays with a lot of smoke an lasers, sometimes with my former pedalboard I coulnd't see what I was touching), so all the controls are now clearly visible. You can adjust the luminosity with a pot in the rear side.
In the rear side I have the power connector, the ON/OFF switch with its LED, two 9V plugs if I want to feed any external pedals, a pot for luminosity, two send and returns, input and output and another output for the talk-box.
I still have to put labels to show which pot is which (gain, volume, tone, etc), and in the rearside too.
I wan to put the donut-style things in the stomp-switches (ala Cornish). I like them very much.
Also, I'm gonna have to put a bigger power supply. I put a 1W (regulated with the "bipolar power supply" in generalguitargadgets) and another 1W for the LEDs (high luminosity, they suck a lot of current!). The thing is the 1W for the pedals is not enough, cause I have two tube drivers (which their respective tubes) that suck a lot of current too. I'll put a 2W one.
Hope you like it!
That's just FANTASTIC !!!! :icon_mrgreen:
Great work, I'm blown away , still have mine "on paper" but this has inspired me to just
"get on with it" !
Awesome :D
Marty.
:o
Nice!!
Dude! That thing is a monster!
Do you get any mains hum from having the power supply in the enclosure?
that's amazing!! nice job!!
i've been tempted to do something similar, if not so bold. I'm considering a pedalboard with holes for circuits to attach and 'spade' terminals to plug in the ins, outs, and power rails. naturally, it's still theoretical.
PLEASE show us some gut shots...! that is an intimidating machine!
Very nice indeed. I've been an admirer of Pete Cornish's work ever since I discovered Andy Summers from the Police used his gear way back in the early 80's.
Of course now you'll need to post gut shots you know.
B.
Beautiful. Thoughtful. Functional. Strategic. Compact. Stompable. Envy-provoking. Everything a pedalboard should be.
Are those blue LEDs what I think they are? Illumination for each control panel so you can see the settings in the dark? If so, outstanding!!
Simply "GREAT" !!!! ::) ::) ::) ::)
Yeah, I think the same. And you haven't seen the guys performing live yet. A true show.....
Amazing pedalboard, simply amazing............
The others have said it, but WOW. That's incredible. I will "third" the request for gut shots, and convert it to a demand. We must have gut shots!
-Alex
KUDOS mahnn.
Outta my league...I like my full 6'' depth board...some of the stages we play are rather 'shallow'.
Looks Fantastic, like an excellent PRO PerFormance MACHINE !!!
:o BEAUTIFUL!!! :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Glad you like it!
Of course, pics of the guts to come when I finnish it completely.
No hum at all, pretty silent (is perfectly shielded in the inside, you'll see in the photos).
And yeah, the "blue" lights are for illumination for each control panel. I say "blue" cause they are actually white, I don't know why the camera shows them in blue...
Incredible. DIY at it's best!
I join the rest of the guys when I say: "Gut shots, please."
My compliments, one of the best projects I have ever seen.
You must be really proud of that! How many hours work? I daren't even guess... It shows that DIY can produce some amazing results - just try ordering one of them from the shops!
Again, well done!
BTW has anyone actually played one of Mr Cornish's creations?
Sweet!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/TheToneGod/applausesmall8ef.gif)
Andrew
Beatiful psst!!... show the guts shots!!!!
:icon_eek: :icon_cool:
...I also like your idea of using the rotary switch and trimmers to make presets in the PT-80 delay.
You also mentioned that you made the Boss EQ quieter; I'm curious to know if there was some particular modification to the circuit performed, or did you just upgrade some components? Or both?
THAT IS FREAKING AWESOME!
It seems like everybody keeps raising the bar on this forum and youve done it with your pedal board. I would love to see a step by step on this diy.That would be quite a post but a hint on getting started in the right direction would be helpful. That is quite a job.
That's some beautiful work, man. I wish mine would turn out HALF as nice looking...but you have that artistic touch that some of us seem to lack... ex. "I'll just throw it in an aluminum box and put some sharpie on it so I know what's what."
i cant count how many people have requested gut shots so far, but I also say, GUTS!
Bump. Anymore updates on this fantastic piece of work?
Just arrived from my shows in Menorca.
Some pics of the guts:
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-guts-1.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-guts-2.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-guts-3.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-guts-4.jpg)
:icon_eek: Beautiful!!! :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Excellent ! Looks tidy inside ! :icon_wink:
[stands up to applaud]: bravo, bravo....we want more...we want more
Beautiful man!
Any chance of any details? What are the dimensions? Weight? Time taken? Costs?
Wow, that's impressive work! :icon_cool:
Well, it's basically finnished now.
I put all pulldowns so it doens't CLACK when I press any of the switches (totally silent now).
Also, I rebuild the tube drivers, I traced the circuit of the original I have and now they sound perfect.
I put all the labels.
Now I have a case.
Still, for the future, I have to put the "donuts" around the switches and the big knobs.
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-1.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-2.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-3.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-4.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-5.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-6.jpg)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/pedalera-tone-fin-7.jpg)
It's pretty silent, amazingly silent, actually.
Sounds so sweet, looking forward to trying it the next gig.
I'll write an article with construction details when I have time, maybe next week.
That's awesome and, to a newbie like me, very inspiring. Although I'm still building simples fuzz circuits at the moment - maybe one day I'll achieve something as excellent as this. Very good work indeed. Well impressive.
Stu
First, it looks fabulous and extremely functional. I couldn't help noticing, however, that the effects are arranged (at least their control panels are) in a sequence contrary to what "right-handed" pedals and pedalboards are like. There, you would expect some effects, like compressors and overdrives, to be early in the pedal sequence, hence over to the right, and modulation/delay effects (like flanger and delay) to be near the end of the sequence and over to the left. Such an arrangement is a joint product of a) preferred arrangements, and b) where the jacks are.
You wouldn't by any chance happen to be left-handed, would you? :icon_wink:
Quote from: Mark Hammer on July 25, 2006, 08:51:09 AM
You wouldn't by any chance happen to be left-handed, would you? :icon_wink:
It's funny you should mention that. I thought it looked perfect... and I'm left-handed. I've
always viewed pedals as backwards but I assumed it was because so many other things are right-to-left.
Quote from: Mark Hammer on July 25, 2006, 08:51:09 AM
You wouldn't by any chance happen to be left-handed, would you? :icon_wink:
That Mark Hammer, nothing gets by him does it? ;)
Quote from: psst on July 07, 2006, 01:31:54 PM
Well, it's basically finnished now.
I put all pulldowns so it doens't CLACK when I press any of the switches (totally silent now).
Also, I rebuild the tube drivers, I traced the circuit of the original I have and now they sound perfect.
What version of TD you mean ? New BK Butler ? Can you post the schematic of this version which you included in your pedalboard ?
i must say that is a sweet PB
for the past week i have been thinking about converting my board into something like the layout you have done there by tossing the guts in the board and mounting the switches outside but i never would have thought of the lights although i tend to put LEDs on everything so that probably would have come soon after....
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/moody07747/Completed%20Projects/E-Drums/Drum%20LEDs/
(my drum LED system)
im interested on what you used to put over the LED lights..the part that angles up
ill get to reading the text on the post...i was too buzy looking at the pics lol
Well, I'm right handed, but it just seemed natural to me to have it arranged like I write, from left to right.
I didn't even think about it...
The thing I would have put differently now is the control panel in the rear side, instead of in the left side, in the right side, so the cable from the guitar to the pedalboard doesn't need to be so long.
The Tube Driver is the new ones BK Butler is building himself, I've tried the three versions and this is by far the best (for me).
I emailed the schematic to GGG, so probably they'll include it in the next Tube Driver layout.
It's a very good news ! I also heared that the new BKs sounds best. Thanks in advance for the schematic and I can't wait for the new TD project at GGG :)
Can you explain us more about the power supply unit ? do you run the TD fillament in DC ?
The power supplies:
Two coils, transforming 230V AC to 30V AC.
Then one of them goes to GGG's bipolar power supply (modified to supply +9, -9, +15 and -15), and the other one to another GGG's bipolar power suuply (+9, -9, no modifications).
Yeah, I run TubeDriver filaments in DC. No problem.
I don't know if I can post the schematic of the new Tube Driver here (copyright issues). Peter? Can I?
Can you send me this schematic ? You can find e-mail address in my in profile...
Ok, here's the schematic.
If any of the moderators think it's not ok to put it here, remove the post, no problem.
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/tube_driver_sc-mio.gif)
Big thanks for that ! :icon_razz:
Did you use GGG PCB or made a new one ?
I compared this schematic with Tube Works 911 Classic and for me both units are identical... :)
Here's 911's schematic:
http://rapidshare.de/files/28755765/911.pdf.html
BTW, if you take a look at the TD PCB from David Gilmour's Cornish pedalboard you'll see RT-911 written on the top of the board. It looks like the new BK Butler Tuber Driver is a reissue of the 911 pedal...
http://www.petecornish.co.uk/Control-Panels-1.jpg
You're totally right!
I didn't see that chematic before...
Yeah, I traced an original new-made Butler one, as you say, it has the RT-911 on it.
I guess it makes sense readind an interview with Butler. he said when he was fired from Chandler, he founded his own company, "Tube Works", and he released the 911. The Chandler re-issued the 4 buttoms but, as Butler says, with some errors.
Tube Works built three-buttons versions too.
I've tried a Chandler one and this Butler made that I bought from him few months ago, and for me this Butler is by far the best.
Remember to use all 4 pots logarithmics.
For the PCB I modified a PCB a guy in the forum posted, I can put it here too if you want.
From the BK Butler interview:
"Actually the Chandler thing was a relatively minor incident in the overall history of my business activities. There's not enough room here to elaborate much, but the truth of the matter is that somehow Chandler decided at one point that they had been the designer of the product, came up with the TD trademark and that I was infringing on their IP. They obviously had somebody attempt to copy the electronics and the physical design of my TD, then produced and sold them. I don't know how many unauthorized units are out there. The mistakes inside are essentially within the EQ area and it would take too long to describe them. Also there is a basic ground loop mistake as well. The overall sound of the C copy is somewhat muted and not as clear on the upper harmonics, etc. Eric Johnson never used one of these copies as far as I know. All his pedals are ones I personally made. I never could understand why Chandler did that copy thing... They even challenged me in court and tried to convince the judge that Chandler was the actual owner of my design and the Tube Driver trademark. But the truth was obvious: In the end what was mine to begin with remains mine still... I then designed the black Real Tube pedal in 1986 which I still think is a superior pedal in some ways to the Tube Driver (ZZ Top's Billy Gibbons agrees) and then went on to design all my Tube Works SKUs: MosValve, Tube Works Real Tube rack products, combo amps and reverb... then the smaller 3 knob version of the Tube Driver was designed in an attempt to give an entry level price to tube lovers. Actually I never completely stopped making original Tube Driver pedals, but just didn't emphasize them so much during the early TW years. Later in about 1993 or 1994 I revived the pedal in earnest and named it after my 'love on 4 wheels', the model 911. It's ironic now that one of my current business collaborators has an esoteric speaker model called the 'Twin Towers' and I'm again making limited production runs of 911 pedals.... We were actually musing about that singular fact today on the phone of all things... "
Yes, please !
Also, I know that Gilmour's Tube Drivers were modified by Pete Cornish...
No, Gilmour's tube drivers are not modified.
Here you have the pcb ;)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/tube-pcb.gif)
(http://www.pinktones.net/psst/tube-pcb-comp.gif)
Use shielded cables for input-output.
very nice and cool pedalboard.... :o :icon_eek: :o
btw, you said that the signal goes in 4 buffer..... i'm new to this, can you explain me what is a buffer and what does it do....in simple term, thank you very mutch....
bent
Quote from: bent on August 11, 2006, 04:00:42 AM
btw, you said that the signal goes in 4 buffer..... i'm new to this, can you explain me what is a buffer and what does it do....in simple term, thank you very mutch....
It's probably better to ask this question in a separate thread, so we don't stray too far from the discussion about the pedalboard. Before you do though, be sure to read about buffers on www.muzique.com, www.geofex.com. (HINT: Buffers are often mentioned in articles about "true bypass")
Quote from: mudmen on August 09, 2006, 08:01:52 AM
I compared this schematic with Tube Works 911 Classic and for me both units are identical... :)
Here's 911's schematic:
http://rapidshare.de/files/28755765/911.pdf.html
What about the opamp? The Butler schematic has 4558's, whereas the schematic by psst states that tl072's are used... Knowing that most of the distortion comes from overdriving the opamp, this seems to be an important factor as well.
Psst, did you try different opamps?
hi psst
very good job!!
some questions...
for lighting the control cavity you use high luminosity led
but how you change the intensity ... a simple pot in series
or something more complex?
Have you idea what's the pourpose of a blue cap (ceramic) to ground here?
http://www.petecornish.co.uk/bv14.html and less visible here?
http://www.petecornish.co.uk/backpanelwire.html
I'd be interested in an answer to this question too.
I'd guess that you'd use a resistor (say 4.7K to set the minimum resistance) in series with lug 1 of a 50k pot (this value could possibly be higher/lower??? - depends how low you want the LED's to be lit) then lugs 2&3 connected together going to the other side of the LED's. In this way the pot is just acting as a variable resistor and this would give you a resistance of 4.7K to 54.7K. Any clarification appreciated.
Exactly, it's just a pot wired as a variable resistor. If I remember right, I put a 1k pot. It works like a breeze.
I don'nt know what's the purpose of those blue caps in cornish' pedalboard. It seems they connect the ground of the jacks to the chassis. I don't know why using a cap instead of a direct connection...
About the tube driver, mine came with a TL072, for sure. I didn't have time to experiment with different opamps, but I will for sure.
And the buffer is there to prevent signal loss in long cable, etc. Also, in my case it makes 4 copies of the signal. One go to the tuner, other one to a aux output (to feed my talk box) and another one to the pedal chain. The last on is unused for the moment. Anyway I have a toggle switch to disable the buffer if I want.
What buffer did you go for psst and in what way did you get it to give four outputs?
Hello psst !
Where do you get that new TD Schem ? Is there any discussion going around this in some forum ?
Just one more question, in the GGG the HI and LO pots are linear, not log ... why is different on this new schem ? There are also some more differences ...
Thanks.
I don't have anything to add in a technical sense but just wanted to say your board is "retarded" - in an ironic sense. Massively beautiful, inspired, kick-a**. I'll keep saying it - "Wow".
I have a black Real Tube and will have to investigate further. I've had this love/hate relationship with this pedal (what were they thinking with that big black plastic switch?). Psst, thats a great interview.
Again, your work is impressive - I wonder what PeteC. thinks?
Full interview is here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jroscoe/bkbutler.html
The Cornish board is using isolated jacks to prevent ground loops. Those capacitors could be between the jack gnd and chassis gnd for extra RF filtering, I suppose.
Or maybe they're not capacitors at all, but a MOV intended to protect the board from a dangerously high voltage potential on the cable to a guitar amp, like you might get with really bad house AC wiring. They make sure a fuse pops. It's the "surge suppressor" found in a lot of power bars.
I'd give each LED it's own current limiting resistor, and parallel all that to an isolated LM317-based variable PS dedicated to lighting. It's best for the LEDs, keeps most of the current out of the panel pot (and maybe goes full bright if the pot fails open), allows most of the dissipation to be heatsinked, doesn't load down any audio PS in any way, and ensures the LED supply isn't emiting any hum/buzz into the shielded interior.
Pete and Lynda do really nice work, don't they? My hereos. 8)
Btw, regarding the Tube Driver schem: the old GGG schem and layout had serious power supply problems to my eye. This new one looks much better. I still haven't built one yet myself.
I'm using AMZ's quad buffer.
About the TD schematic, I traced it myself. Yeah, both treble and bass pot are logs. It works perfectly this way.
Ardric, actually I already put limiting resistors for all and each LED like you say, when I posted the photos I had just "finished" the pedalboard but there where some momentary details to change, like that.