For the most part I ussually use switchcraft open jacks but i found some closed surface mounted jacks (the ones with 6 lugs / 3 on each side and I cant tell where or how to wire them. Any help? or link?
Quote from: jimbob on July 04, 2006, 12:48:57 PM
For the most part I ussually use switchcraft open jacks but i found some closed surface mounted jacks (the ones with 6 lugs / 3 on each side and I cant tell where or how to wire them. Any help? or link?
You mean like these?
(http://psionicaudio.com/images/populatedPCB1.jpg)
If so, those are PCB mounted, but not surface mounted. Here's the datasheet on them:
http://www.neutrik.com/images/ock/products/downloads/210_217181.pdf (http://www.neutrik.com/images/ock/products/downloads/210_217181.pdf)
Man, I love those plastic PCB mount jacks. And they are SO FREAKING CHEAP. You can get 'em for like $0.60 from Mouser. I just bend the legs over at a 90 degree angle into the center of the jack and then put a little loop in whatever wire I'm soldering to it and slip that over the leg on the jack. They isolate you from the chassis (which is nice) and they seemed like ok quality to me. I'm not a real fan of the black plastic nut look, but it's ok.
I was having problems with some "economy" jacks from Effects Connection in that whenever the pedal was jostled, the jacks were loose enough that I was losing ground and getting a big pop. No amount of bending would correct the problem (I'm guessing the hole was a little bit oversized for the sleve on the jack) and I switched to these jacks and had no problems. I like them, especially for the money. I wish Small Bear stocked some of the cheap ones, cause I hate making a separate order from somewhere else just for the jacks I want. :) They're cheap enough that I just get all stereo. Here...
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=550-20301&terms=550-20301&Ntt=*55020301*&N=0&crc=true (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=550-20301&terms=550-20301&Ntt=*55020301*&N=0&crc=true)
Page 852 in the mouser catalog. They're like $0.58 each. I am 99% sure the nut is included, since it says "mounting hardware included. Or you can get something similar from Futurlec.
http://www.futurlec.com/Audio-65mm.shtml (http://www.futurlec.com/Audio-65mm.shtml)
$0.35 for switched and unswitched. I am not sure who makes them, but it says right on the page that they are "high quality". :icon_biggrin: I like the look of a metal jack better, but when I can get ten jacks for the price of two, I'm liable to go the cheap route. I'm not making pedals for big time gigs or anywhere critical, so it doesn't matter much to me, you know?
Yup- thats it- Im a tard. I notice on the sheet theres tn sn rn. What does the "n" stand for? Do I need to do anything for the other side of lugs or are those for support?
btw- I seen that pic on the pic thread. NICE WORK!
sta63bmx- Thanks for the links. Im starting to agree w you on that Im not doing any production line so Im not going to be as concerned as I used to be. If it stops working right Ill just get some new ones.
Quote from: jimbob on July 04, 2006, 01:46:24 PM
Yup- thats it- Im a tard. I notice on the sheet theres tn sn rn. What does the "n" stand for? Do I need to do anything for the other side of lugs or are those for support?
btw- I seen that pic on the pic thread. NICE WORK!
Thanks!
The N stands for Normal. When a plug is not in the jack, the N lug is connected to the lug on the other side. When a plug is inserted, the N lug no longer contacts anything. So you can attach ground to the TN lug of the Input jack, and when no cable is inserted, the effect input is grounded out. Etc. Nice to be able to do.
Quote from: sta63bmx on July 04, 2006, 01:46:10 PM
Man, I love those plastic PCB mount jacks. And they are SO FREAKING CHEAP. You can get 'em for like $0.60 from Mouser. I just bend the legs over at a 90 degree angle into the center of the jack and then put a little loop in whatever wire I'm soldering to it and slip that over the leg on the jack. They isolate you from the chassis (which is nice) and they seemed like ok quality to me. I'm not a real fan of the black plastic nut look, but it's ok.
It doesn't have to be the black plastic nut - the chrome ferrule looks better and is a tougher part:
(http://psionicaudio.com/images/TriadRear.jpg)
very cool! Thanks..
james
Hi,
An easy way to find tip/sleave/ring etc. on an unknown jack is to set your DMM on "beep" or "continuity mode". Then stick in a known working cable and measure from the solder lugs to the end of the cable. Just listen for the the beeps.
This is easier for me that looking at the data sheet.
hope this helps,
I felt in love with these when I took apart my Red Pro DI box.
I then bought a batch of these jacks.
An exemple:
(http://www.gtechblues.com/images/2to1pcb1.jpg)
There's as much hardware than electronics on that pcb ;D
Gilles