Hey guys
I'm trying to figure out how to make my enclosure to look nice when they have lables on them. Right now i use a lable maker with this plactic sticky tape. It looks really cheesy and probably will come off really fast.
Ive seen people use decals like for model planes.. Where can you get these made?
This would be a great help
Thanks
MAtt
Maybe like this?
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=55
If you have access to a printer you can make them yourself.
Buy some Waterslide Decal Paper, available, I would imagine, at any good Stationers. From there it`s a simple process to print off your chosen design while following the instructions. Finish off with a coat of acrylic spray. Baddabing.
What I like about this technique is that with a bit of care you don`t get the lines around the transparent area. If that makes sense.
Waterslide decals will work nice, but don't forget to spray them with a clearcoat BEFORE you put them in water. I didn't do that the first time, and boy was i angry when all my graphics went down the sink.... :(
Magnus N
So when i print them, i then clearcoat them (reccomended product?) then i put them on my enclosure then dab them with acrylic spray?
Thanks guys
Quote from: msurdin on August 15, 2007, 08:26:11 PM
So when i print them, i then clearcoat them (reccomended product?) then i put them on my enclosure then dab them with acrylic spray?
Thanks guys
After printing you cut the decal to size and soak in water to loosen it from the paper backing in order to apply it to your chosen surface, just like the model plane transfers you were talking about . Magnus recommends clearcoating before this process, in order, I presume, to preserve the ink from soaking off. I`ve never had this problem personally. The clearcoat is exactly the same as the acrylic spray. It`s nothing fancy, just a clear sealer, like varnish, in a spray can. The make I`ve been using is Plasti-kote. Like a lot of these products it`s toxic so take necessary precautions.
would a polyurthane work?
I`m sure it would work very well.
does it matter if it is gloss or satin style?
You will only need a clear coat on the decal sheet if you use an inkjet printer with the decal stock.
If you use laser printer or photocopier you don't need to clear coat the sheet before you soak them off the sheet and on to the box.
Inkjet prints are not water proof. Laser and photocopier are...
John
Quote from: John Lyons on August 15, 2007, 11:42:17 PM
You will only need a clear coat on the decal sheet if you use an inkjet printer with the decal stock.
If you use laser printer or photocopier you don't need to clear coat the sheet before you soak them off the sheet and on to the box.
Inkjet prints are not water proof. Laser and photocopier are...
John
I usually give my laserprinted decals a clearcoat layer before sliding it. The ones I buy are very fragile when sliding them, just like mnordbye stated. The clearcoat layer gives it some strength and also help protecting the graphics from damage when I use a soft cotton rag to get the blisters out.
The downside is you could get visible edges around the decals, those I grinddown between the layers of clearcoat.
/Krister
I print mine on a laser printer and slide them on and then I put a thin layer of clear on the pedal after the decals are on there. This helps to keep the decal from sliding off later.