Hey.. I decided to build an Atari Punk Console in a recycled Ikea-lamp. On perf. Complete nightmare, worst decision ever. Never touching perf again. Period.
Anywho, I went over to vero because it seemed much easier, and everyone seemed to be rather joyful of Dragonfly's vero layout. So I thought, well, if I just replace the jack with a speaker, it will probably work. Well, naïve as I may be, this is what I've done, and NO sound is coming through to the speaker.. And I thought, you guys are a mindblowingly sharp lot, so I thought that then maybe some of you would take the time to help me out here!
So here's how it's wired, exactly:
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/t_atari_punk_console_vero_141.gif)
Thanks,
Thomas McGhie.
Have you tried the circuit with just an output jack instead of the speaker?
I bet the 555 isn't too happy with having to drive such a low impedance.
If I'm not mistaken I believe the APC needs amplification of some kind to be audible. The output jack needs to plug into a Ruby or other amp to be heard.
I forgot to add, the speaker is a small (4x4 cm) 8 ohm speaker.
It needs amplification?
I found a site where some guy had built one with an internal 8 ohm speaker, and someone posed the question as to whether id needed amplification. The guy in question answered that in his opinion, it did plenty of volume with just an internal speaker. Sorry, I can't find the link..
Also, wasn't the orinal circuit intended to drive a small 8 ohm speaker? And the Kaustic Machines shcem just swapped it for a -4 decibel line out? (What the hell is -4 decibels anyway?)
Maybe I'll try a line out this evening..
If it does turn out to be a little amp you need at the end just use a little LM386 circuit to give you the 'umph' to drive the speaker.
Quote from: demonstar on August 27, 2008, 03:32:03 PM
If it does turn out to be a little amp you need at the end just use a little LM386 circuit to give you the 'umph' to drive the speaker.
Cheers! Any tips on how to do a REALLY simple version of this? Preferably on veroboard..
Quote from: McGhie on August 27, 2008, 04:01:34 PM
Quote from: demonstar on August 27, 2008, 03:32:03 PM
If it does turn out to be a little amp you need at the end just use a little LM386 circuit to give you the 'umph' to drive the speaker.
Cheers! Any tips on how to do a REALLY simple version of this? Preferably on veroboard..
It doesn't get any simpler than the smokey: two caps and a 386.
(http://beavisaudio.com/projects/NoisyCricket/oldpics/Smokey.gif)
Guys! It works! Well, sort of.. I still need help!
First of all, the line out WORKED, thanks guys! It now makes sound!
But here's the problem(s)..
It has a REALLY low volume, overpowered by hum, except when I touch one side of the pitch pot with my finger. On the plastic side, that is! You know, the (black) little square of plastic supporting the lugs of (some) pots. Plastic isn't supposed to conduct, is it?! But anyway, then the volume goes nice and loud. And I like it nice and loud.. any ideas?
Secondly, I think I accidentally used a really low value pot for the other pot. It switches between just two sounds when turned fully one way/ back again. I'll try a 1 m pot instead, shall I?
Sounds like an earthing problem again
Quote from: Cardboard Tube Samurai on August 27, 2008, 05:05:19 PM
Sounds like an earthing problem again
But what do I do? Solder the plastic to ground?! ???
Just switched the pot that didn't really respond except for the two sounds with a 1 m pot.. exact same sound(s) as before.. ???
bumpity bump
Everyone runs a mile when anyone mentions ground problems! :icon_lol:
I've been thinking and did you connect the grounds of the LM386 based amp to grounds of the ATC? If not that may be your problem.
Quote from: demonstar on August 28, 2008, 04:43:25 AM
Everyone runs a mile when anyone mentions ground problems! :icon_lol:
Stop running, damnit! :D
Quote from: demonstar on August 28, 2008, 05:01:25 AM
I've been thinking and did you connect the grounds of the LM386 based amp to grounds of the ATC? If not that may be your problem.
I ended up not installing the mini-amp, and put the line out in there instead.
Anyone, this must be something really simple..?
Pics really help
Ok, guys, prepare for one of the LONG posts!
(Photos, duh..)
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede004.jpg)
The whole project, in an Ikea lamp. Just above the on/off switch are now two screws, they act as those.. touch-to-make-contact-and-have-fun-disco'ing-your-finger-around things. They connect a 22 uf cap between lug 2 and 5 on the 556.
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede005.jpg)
INNARDS! Help yourself.
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede016.jpg)
And here we have the uhm.. ground. Not the prettiest sight (it gets uglier,) but everything is connected, or so my DMM says..
Keep an eye on the blue wire and read/look on!
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede031.jpg)
The blue wire and the bottom right wire on the layout goes to these screws inside the bottom of the lamp.
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede032.jpg)
The current then goes through these height-adjustable legs... ( if I touch them, the sound is terminated while I do so..)
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede034.jpg)
..and to the "head", where the bulb used to be, I reverse-attached the metal bowl/thing, and...
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede035.jpg)
..here you can see a new set of screws, leading the current into the shielded wires, which are attached to the output jack.
Now to the problem!
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede025.jpg)
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede027.jpg)
Here you see the pot that only goes really audiable when I touch the right side of the black plastic in the second picture, or the right lug in the second picture..
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede021.jpg)
here you have the circuit board, everything is connected as it should be, as far as I can see. The bottom left corner is the TOP left corner on the layout here, just in case you feel like comparing. The two wires (green and black) go to the 22 uf cap bend.
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/ThomasMcGhie/Billede028.jpg)
And finally, the other pot. The pulse-shaper or what you will, it sounds like it changes the length of the pulse if you listen closely, sort of like a REALLY subtle phaser, and it changes pitch a little when turned far left, but otherwise it does bollocks..
Everything is connected properly as far as I can read with my DMM, but feel free to make me re-measure anywhere you suspect might be doing evil!
Thanks again, hope you can make something out from the pictures!
/ Thomas McGhie
Bump...?
Please guys, I've checked every connection I could think of. I know the ground and pots don't look overall professional, but I'm a beginner, I'm learning. Also by trying to find out what is wrong with my APC, but I just can't figure it out. Any of you guys care to give me a hand on this one, besides what has already been suggested (and done and checked and doublechecked)?
Do you have a pic of the front of the board too? This might help more eyes looking it over.
I think running your jack through the telescopes is possibly doing something to your signal.
I'd say, hook up the circuit as directly as possible in order to trouble shoot it.
Also, the ground and pot connections don't look good, how have you measured the connection?
Did you measure for continuity or for zero ohm resistance? (or both)
Take the time to get the soldering right, saves a lot of frustration...
That said, It looks very funky! :D
Quote from: oldrocker on September 02, 2008, 05:57:16 PM
Do you have a pic of the front of the board too? This might help more eyes looking it over.
Will take one ASAP!
Quote from: any on September 02, 2008, 09:39:32 PM
I think running your jack through the telescopes is possibly doing something to your signal.
I'd say, hook up the circuit as directly as possible in order to trouble shoot it.
Also, the ground and pot connections don't look good, how have you measured the connection?
Did you measure for continuity or for zero ohm resistance? (or both)
About the telescopes, I thought so. But the volume doesn't seem to change extended/unextended. Guess I'll give it a try though. ;)
I measured all wiring with the pins on the opposite ends of where the wires meet, on the copper strips when possible.
Continuity? Zero ohm resistance? I may or may not have done this, naming it differently, please elaborate?
Quote from: any on September 02, 2008, 09:39:32 PM
That said, It looks very funky! :D
Thanks! I must admit that I am of the same opinion! :D
Quote from: McGhie on September 03, 2008, 03:14:02 PM
Continuity? Zero ohm resistance? I may or may not have done this, naming it differently, please elaborate?
If you measure on your DMM, which setting do you use?
the one that measures resistance (o-200 Ohms).
or continuity (the diode shaped setting) which tells you whether electrical current goes through.
(at least that's what I think it does...)
Anyway, how do you measure your connection?
Also, what wattage is the solder iron? maybe it's to low or high for this kind of work.
The chip might be shot by the excess heat on the components..
It will work...eventually!
Quote from: any on September 04, 2008, 05:52:13 AM
If you measure on your DMM, which setting do you use?
the one that measures resistance (o-200 Ohms).
or continuity (the diode shaped setting) which tells you whether electrical current goes through.
(at least that's what I think it does...)
Anyway, how do you measure your connection?
Also, what wattage is the solder iron? maybe it's to low or high for this kind of work.
The chip might be shot by the excess heat on the components..
Ah!! I measure resistance then. But with your explanation, the other one sounds simpler.
My soldering iron is 35 W. I know that it should be 15-30, but 35 seems fine, I can easily get the job done before anything overheats. Except maybe for chips and trannies, but I solder with them out of their sockets.
Quote from: any on September 04, 2008, 05:52:13 AM
It will work...eventually!
I know, and it pisses me off that it isn't now! :D