It's a neat trick - take a 100K pot, bridge the two outer lugs with a 100K resistor - hey presto a 50K pot.
Now, if you take a 100K pot and bridge it with say a 1K resistor it would be a 1K pot or thereabouts ( 0.9901K actually).
So, theoretically, one can take a 100K pot, bridge it with a resistor of your choice and create a 'whatever' K pot.
So really all I need to buy is a load of 100K pots and bridge them to suit my needs?
So what's the downside? At what point does it affect the taper?
Educate me!
I would think it alters the taper somehow.
I use this trick as well but usually only to halve the pot value.
I've often wondered about the downside.
My brain isn't that big though.
john
The reason I ask is because in my last build I had a 100K volume pot, and was thinking of changing it out for a lower value to attenuate the volume and lower the serial resistance when in a high gain/low volume situation. I ended up experimenting wth bridging the pot with different values. It seemed to work fine. I ended up just using the 100K pot because once I added a tonestack that attenuated the signal sufficiently. I'm just curious as to the limits and negatives of such an approach.
It does affect the taper, there is an excellent article at geofex about it called "The Secret Life of Pots."
The only serious problem with buying a bunch of 100k pots is that you can't make them bigger. If you needed a pot bigger than 100k, you would have to buy it. Of course you could always go buy a bunch of 1M, but it would affect the taper even more to get them to the lower values.
-Joe
Quote from: calpolyengineer on September 13, 2008, 03:26:38 PM
It does affect the taper, there is an excellent article at geofex about it called "The Secret Life of Pots."
The only serious problem with buying a bunch of 100k pots is that you can't make them bigger. If you needed a pot bigger than 100k, you would have to buy it. Of course you could always go buy a bunch of 1M, but it would affect the taper even more to get them to the lower values.
-Joe
Yeah, I find I uses a lot more 100K and lower pots than 1M. Also, IM pots tend to be a little more expensive than 100K. That's why I mentioned 100K. I use a bunch of them..............
Yeah, I absolutely agree. I was just trying to point out some negatives
-Joe
I read 'The secret life of pots' but couldn't find any reference to bridging the outer lugs - mostly about bridging from the wiper to an outer lug to change the taper.
1...Goes right across the smaller resistor, the bigger one has small influence over value...
I just this minute deleted a whole page .5 of typing.
Basically that's the one side, the other side is once one resistor gets smaller than the pot...[go back to 1].
iow, sometimes it is easier to sacrifice the R range of the pot position by using a smaller pot [Ex: 100k Dist+ Gainpot], other times simply bending the R sweep curve a bit closer to what you wish is the ticket [like you have or even across wiper/outside lug].
Many ways around, surefire is with DMM, a marked potknob centered in a matched, marked panel dial [1-10] so that settings and readings can be recorded, I don't know if you can find a resistor calculator online for this, notice how the R value start moving faster than stock pot sometimes, figure how that figures in circuit.
The smaller the resistor in proportion to the pot value, the less it's easy to get a smooth or usable sweep of R value.
I've seen it written in schematics as such 100k and 100k pot paralleled...sure is easy enough to try with/without the fixed R tagged ont he pot.
Quote from: frequencycentral on September 13, 2008, 04:08:38 PM
I read 'The secret life of pots' but couldn't find any reference to bridging the outer lugs - mostly about bridging from the wiper to an outer lug to change the taper.
Given a potentiometer with 2 lugs connected (P), and a parallel resistor across it (R), the resistance will be 1/(1/R+1/P). This gives a reverse log taper to the resulting combination. Here's a graphic I just drew up to illustrate this:
(http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/4466/18016905qe6.jpg) (http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/4466/18016905qe6.jpg)
IME, it does affect the taper, use a DMM and measure the taper, you´ll see that it gets wierd, only max and min are ok, but in the middle i get strange readings..
since that i change the value of pots with 2 resistors..that works well...
I've read the secret life of pots a few times.
The concepts are there but more examples are needed.
There are (at least) a couple ways to alter pot values with respect to taper.
One resistor across a pot, one resistor across the wiper and each outer lug.
Depending on the fixed resistor's value you can get a different response.
Thanks for the graphs zyxwyvu
I don't have any simulation software.
Would you be interested in making some graphs with different fixed resistances for the other
configurations? It would be great to get this in the wiki.
Here are some schematics for other configurations.
(http://www.mrdwab.com/john/temp/pot-taper.jpg)
Sometimes I use make the resistance higher in the log voltage divider to get a "super audio" taper level control
It's at unity when half way up, then after half it ramps up a good bit to boost an amp etc.
The rev. audio configuration is great for Fuzz Face and speed controls or tremolos and oscillators.
john
wow nice thanks!
Putting equations on the forum...
That is the reason I posted this:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=70259.msg564775#msg564775
Otherwise it can be fastidious...
Well...
Quote from: John Lyons on September 13, 2008, 07:51:24 PM
Thanks for the graphs zyxwyvu
I don't have any simulation software.
Would you be interested in making some graphs with different fixed resistances for the other
configurations? It would be great to get this in the wiki.
That's a good idea. I'll see if I can draw up some more of those. I'll start with the configurations posted. Any other requests?
Great, thanks Josh!
john
OK here's my first shot at a graphic for tapers. Let me know what you guys think.
(http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4662/taperwy4.png) (http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4662/taperwy4.png)
Josh, that's some great work! Help me understand what the percentages mean with some R values as examples please!
The percentages figure for R is what percentage the resistor (R) is of the pot (P) so for a 100k pot
10% = 10k
20% = 20k etc
The percentage figures for Max are the value of the combined Pot + resistor combo when the pot is set to maximum resistance. This is worked out using formula for resistors in parallel (http://www.doctronics.co.uk/resistor.htm#series_parallel), so for a 100k pot and 100k resistor the maximum resistance is 50k.
The Max values would be useful for the B and C examples because they change in the same way, and the resistance changes as you move the wiper. If you're using these with a circuit with a high output impedance then you need to make sure the combined value is high enough not to load the circuit too much.
Quote from: frequencycentral on September 14, 2008, 06:21:30 AM
Josh, that's some great work! Help me understand what the percentages mean with some R values as examples please!
Edit: seems slacker has also posted an excellent explanation.
Also, to slacker: I was considering adding the load resistance of A,B, and C, but I couldn't figure out where to put it! It depends on the pot position, so another graph would be needed.
Sure, here are some examples. Keep in mind that the x axis is pot angle, and the y axis is voltage out (A,B,C) or resistance (D,E). Also, the pot is assumed to be linear taper.
First example:
Take Setup B (the letters correspond to the image John posted, as well as the schematics in the bottom right corner).
Your potentiometer (P) is 100k, and your parallel resistor (R) is 10k, or 10% of P.
To see what the taper looks like, Look at graph B, and the red line, which is labeled as 10%.
Note that these graphs are the voltage out.
Another example, for the variable resistances (where the graph is of the resistance):
Take Setup D, with resistor connected to the outer lugs of a potentiometer.
Your potentiometer (P) is 50k, and your resistor (R) is 10k (20% of 50k)
Then look at graph D, and the yellow line (labeled 20%).
This one is a bit odd, in that as you turn the potentiometer, the resistance goes up to a maximum (30% of P, which is 15k), and then goes back down.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Tips for improving it are also welcome - it's a lot of information in one place, and can definitely be hard to decipher.
here's an article with some graphs. A little hard to read but useful.
http://www.elby-designs.com/documents/tailoringpotentionometers.pdf
Josh, what have used for tracing those curves. Pretty clean. But weird that there is no numbers on X and Y...
Do you guys think that the B option would be a good idea to use on those Fender amps where you have a lot of volume at minimum settings ( I think of my siverface Princeton for example) ?
Ok, lets see if we can take this one step further. Is is possible to take a 100k linear pot and turn it into a 1k linear? I ask because that seems to be the original intention of the thread. Also, what happens to A when the resistors are not equal?
-Joe
Quote from: frank_p on September 14, 2008, 02:45:57 PM
Josh, what have used for tracing those curves. Pretty clean. But weird that there is no numbers on X and Y...
I used some Java code I wrote for graphing. No axis labels because there isn't a clearly defined scale. I used 0<x<1 and 0<y<1 (an arbitrary choice).
Quote from: calpolyengineer on September 14, 2008, 04:00:10 PM
Ok, lets see if we can take this one step further. Is is possible to take a 100k linear pot and turn it into a 1k linear? I ask because that seems to be the original intention of the thread. Also, what happens to A when the resistors are not equal?
-Joe
In circuit A, when the resistors are not equal, the center is skewed to one side like this (Ra is the top resistor, Rb is the bottom one):
(http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/7765/taper2mr2.png) (http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/7765/taper2mr2.png)
Very nice josh! thanks for taking the time to make these up for us.
So I'm still trying to work out "Max".
For Example "D"
The pot is "P" and the resistor across it is "R"
Lets say, 100K pot 100K fixed resistor across it.
That makes "R" 100% (100% of the 100K pot) so max is 50K
(max resistance of the pot and fixed resistor) but what is the % 50, I assume?
Is that correct....made more sense to me as I typed it out.
Hopefully that's right though.
john
Quote from: John Lyons on September 14, 2008, 05:50:45 PM
Very nice josh! thanks for taking the time to make these up for us.
So I'm still trying to work out "Max".
For Example "D"
The pot is "P" and the resistor across it is "R"
Lets say, 100K pot 100K fixed resistor across it.
That makes "R" 100% (100% of the 100K pot) so max is 50K
(max resistance of the pot and fixed resistor) but what is the % 50, I assume?
Is that correct....made more sense to me as I typed it out.
Hopefully that's right though.
john
Yes, that looks correct. The 50% is just what you got there - the max resistance of the pot-resistor setup. Similarly, for R = 200k (200%), you would have max = 66% of 100k, or 66k.
Quote from: zyxwyvu on September 14, 2008, 06:51:26 AM
Also, to slacker: I was considering adding the load resistance of A,B, and C, but I couldn't figure out where to put it! It depends on the pot position, so another graph would be needed.
I think it would be enough just to put the value of R and P in parallel. That would probably be enough information to enable you to choose suitable values.
Bump for a good thread.
Quote from: John Lyons on September 15, 2008, 12:40:04 PM
Bump for a good thread.
Yes indeed, equivalent value of a resistances net is one of the first thing you learn in school. It proves you can have some fun with only a couple of Rs.
wow...all of this is very relevant to a project I'm working on--however, I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the graphs (very nice, +1 btw...).
I'm looking at stuffing a wah circuit into a crybaby shell, but the circuit uses a 50k pot value instead of 100k. I know wah pots have a fairly unique taper, but I'd like to apply some of these principles to avoid shaft-sanding, gear-fitting craziness...
...so...
According to what you guys are finding here, would any of the above methods be applicable to my situation (i.e. will the change in taper be noticeably affected by adding parallel resistors?)?
It looks promising.
Also, can would we be able to run simulations on parallel resistors added to log pots?
Jacob
Yes, this will help you.
Depending on the circuit and how the sweep of the pot affects the playability of your pedal you could try a few of these tapering diagrams.
Not all wah pots have a special taper. I'd shoot for a liner response unless you know what6 you are looking for.
Then you can experiment from there. A cool rig to try would be a 100K wah pot with a temporary pot between wiper and one outer lug and temp pot from the other outer lug to the wiper.
This way you will be able to tune in the wah pot to exactly what you want on the fly with no soldering.
Then measure the resistances and swap the temporary pots with fixed resistors.
I'd start with something like 100% of the wah pots resistance as in "A" graph in the second example (second set of graphs)
this will get you either close to liner or an "S" (log.antilog) curve which is similar to an icar taper.
It depends on the pot you have in the wah right now though as well. Do you know the taper?
You can chart it with multimeter by sweeping though the resistances at 1/8th increments or so.
Pete goes into this above...
john
Excellent--It's your standard crybaby wah pot. I'll measure the taper as best I can, then experiment with parallel resistors--probably starting with the simplest methods first.
Nice to know that it can be done. :)
Quote from: frank_p on September 14, 2008, 03:25:25 PM
Do you guys think that the B option would be a good idea to use on those Fender amps where you have a lot of volume at minimum settings ( I think of my siverface Princeton for example) ?
Frank
I would think that the pot in your amp would be Log taper already but you could add a resistor as in "B" and see if that helps.
20-50% of the pots value should be about right for the resistor.
john
Quote from: ironman28 on September 14, 2008, 08:02:32 AM
here's an article with some graphs. A little hard to read but useful.
http://www.elby-designs.com/documents/tailoringpotentionometers.pdf
Cool Thanks !
Quote from: frank_p on September 14, 2008, 03:25:25 PM
Do you guys think that the B option would be a good idea to use on those Fender amps where you have a lot of volume at minimum settings ( I think of my siverface Princeton for example) ?
Frank, how did you get on with the pot mod for the Fender? I'd like to try it on my Performer 1000 (which, on mimimum volume, causes all the birds to leave my neighbourhood).
Cheers
Matt
Quote from: zyxwyvu on September 14, 2008, 06:12:19 AM
OK here's my first shot at a graphic for tapers. Let me know what you guys think.
(http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4662/taperwy4.png) (http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4662/taperwy4.png)
Wow great work! I was just asking about this on the forum this afternoon. I get the basic idea but am a little fuzzy on the details. I have one question. Is B reverse taper or is C a reverse taper?
I'm also a little confused as to which pin would be 1. For example let's say I wanted to make a 5K reverse taper pot. I'm guessing I'd use a 10K linear pot and add a 10K resister between pin 1 and 2. This would be the two pins on the left looking at a pot from behind with the pins pointed down?
Quote from: soggybag on September 15, 2009, 01:39:41 AM
Wow great work! I was just asking about this on the forum this afternoon. I get the basic idea but am a little fuzzy on the details. I have one question. Is B reverse taper or is C a reverse taper?
B is log, and C is reverse log.
Quote from: soggybag on September 15, 2009, 01:39:41 AM
I'm also a little confused as to which pin would be 1. For example let's say I wanted to make a 5K reverse taper pot. I'm guessing I'd use a 10K linear pot and add a 10K resister between pin 1 and 2. This would be the two pins on the left looking at a pot from behind with the pins pointed down?
Lug 1 is on the bottom, and lug 3 is on the top, as shown here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_FAQ#POTS (http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_FAQ#POTS) . To make a reverse log taper pot, you would connect a resistor between lugs 2 and 3. 2 and 3 are the middle and right lugs if you're looking at the pot from the top. It was suggested earlier in this thread that a good value to use for the resistor is 20% of the pot value, so a good place to start is a 5k resistor (4k7 or 5k1), and a 25k pot. The smaller the resistor compared to the pot, the more 'log' the taper, as you can see in the graphs.
Quote from: zyxwyvu on September 15, 2009, 03:11:22 AMB is log
:icon_surprised:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9hQIrsHaS4
Fiddle with a linear pot 100k.
Hook a DMM to appropriate R setting to the wiper [something just above 100k].
Notice the pot measures less than 100k, something above about 87k...we'll say 92k for this discussion-pot.
The wiper controls two variable resistances, each outside lug, should measure about 46k / 46k when the pot is set 'so'.
After that it matters what circuit it is controlling.
Does reducing the total 92k matter ?
Would starting with a 200k pot matter ?
Try intuitively seeking a 'good' value and taper...use what you got or try to get what you need.
The other pot used as a variable resistor [wiper and 1 outside lug] each of the two used lugs getting a wire and insulated testclip. Stick that on the pot you want to change the taper of, try to find the 'correct' side to start fiddling with.
Depends greatly or doesn't really matter, depending on...what circuit and the other values.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/emh/emh.html most useful for this kind of thing
I'm quite sure the answer to this question is hidden in the great graphs earlier in this thread but here goes. I have a Phase 45 type LFO which call for a 470k rev log pot. The pot is configured as a variable resistor. The Tonepad PDF says 'or lin', but a lin kinda bunches things up a bit. So to make the taper rev lin I bridge lugs 2 and 3 with a 470k resistor?
Quote from: zyxwyvu on September 14, 2008, 06:12:19 AM
OK here's my first shot at a graphic for tapers. Let me know what you guys think.
(http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4662/taperwy4.png) (http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4662/taperwy4.png)
Bump for a really helpful thread.
What % taper are the standard log pots we buy?
The percentages have nothing to do with the pots themselves. The percentage reflects the value of the resistor being run parallel to the potentiometer relative to the potentiometer i.e. 100k pot run parallel with a 10k resistor would be the 10% line. See page 1 reply #17.
Right. Actually, I'm referring to the link posted earlier:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/emh/emh.html
I just want to know the % of our bog standard log pots to plug into Joe's calculator. Sorry if this is the wrong place.
Then there is this:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm
sorry to bump such an old topic, but i've spent the last hour and a half trying to figure out how to go from a 1M linear pot to a 500k Rev Audio pot. I'm making an MXR Microamp, and in the schematic, the 500k has lug 1 connected to the op amp, and then 2 and 3 connected eventually going to ground. I've tried just about everything, and my head is fried. can someone shed some light on my situation?
Another old topic bump, it´s a very relevant topic.
I´m trying to replace the tone pot of a TS, the original is I believe, a "S" taper pot. After much testing, I have a 25K linear with a 47K from 3 to 2, and a 6K8 from 1 to 2. It sort of works, but it´s not as smooth in change as the original (I have a reissue TS9 to compare), it has a sort of "flat spot" in the middle where there´s not much change. I´m starting to believe it´s not possible to get a real replacement with resistors...
Anyway, Besides the useful info here, I think there should be a graph to show what happens with two unequal resistors on each pot side. And a comment on how this tricks work in regards to the input/output impedance, load, etc.
I´m not really up to the task... anyone?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/emh/emh.html
Play with all the pot & resistor links. Try Linear Pot, Tapered Pot, and Parallel Resistors.
Oh and since you're playing with the TS tone, I think nothing beats a 5kB pot in there. ;) Lay a 6.8k across the outer lugs of the 25k and there you go.
I´ll try that. Doesn´t having a linear pot bunch up the treble at the last 10% of rotation in your experience?
IME no it doesn't. I do it on my SD-1's, TSx's, and TS clone/variants. I love it. Mehbe it's just meh. :icon_lol:
that EMH is helpful as @#$%! thanx everybody for posting the link ;D
Quote from: Dan N on January 07, 2010, 11:25:34 PM
What % taper are the standard log pots we buy?
Bump for this helpful thread.
Also, I am wondering the same thing - what % taper are standard log pots?
From the graphs on RG's page, I'm guessing 50%
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm)
But when you put in 50% taper on the Tapered Pot calculator, it says to use equal resistors, which seems wrong:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/emh/emh.html (http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/emh/emh.html)
My gut tells me that you should have one of the resistors twice as large as the other (or something like that), and that equal resistors will simply lower the range of the pot...but my gut isn't always right!
Pot companies (no, not medical MJ) have several tapers.
Actually, real pot tapering has pretty much gone the way of the dodo for commercial pots. They tend to use two-section linears to approximate a log or reverse log. Kind of.
Old textbooks show the various pot tapers as smooth graphs.
But there are many, and they're not all that standardized. You can special order X% log (for example) if you special order enough pots.
Great thread, inspired me to (join, &) run my own tests to compare against the "C" graph, for Reverse Log and to see what I could substitute for some hard to get parts in the form i'm looking for.
Some rough measurements below, made using factory 5K RevLog pots and a 10K linear with various resistors. Knob positions are approximate, and Vout varies enough with slight nudges to call this rough. However, graphed & smoothed, the result looks useable.
I might try a 1.5K, 1.8K, or just use the 2.2K with the 10K linear. Depends on how this loads the circuit, so i might bump up to 50K pot & find the right resistor. This Linear is a TT/BI part. Don't know who makes the RevLog pots I have, but in case someone might know I'll take pictures and upload in a subsequent post.
.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img62/931/jtg4.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/jtg4.jpg/)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/8848/6k6k.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/6k6k.jpg/)
Just to mention that it is much easier to get finer adjustment in pot rotation (for these kinds of measurements above, etc) if you either use a really big knob, or stick (verb) a stick (noun) perpendicular to the shaft.
nice tip about the stick. will try that next time.
on part sourcing, i just noticed an ALPHA stamp on the new C5K part. these are 4 pin (1 dummy), snap in, side adjust. a manufacturer might list a nice wide range of parts but then none of the suppliers carries the range for in-stock & single/low quantity ordering. so it's coming down to mixing between suppliers and manufacturers. getting all the same shaft type, length, rotation angles, metal bushing, height, etc, is another aspect besides the foot print.
for the curious, i've been looking at these pots (through mouser, digi-key, newark/farnell, etc)
Alpha Taiwan: RV110F-20E1-(L)A http://www.taiwanalpha.com.tw/english/p_e_27-1.htm
Alpha USA: 3RP/1112N http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/11mm_pot_3.html
Bourns: PTV111 http://www.bourns.com/data/global/pdfs/PTVPTT.pdf
CTS: RK11K http://www.alps.com/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/HTML/Potentiometer/RotaryPotentiometers/RK11K11/RK11K11_list.html
Panasonic: EVU (this is 3 pin) (saw these on mouser)
Changzhou Yuhao: WH111A-2 http://www.penyu-cn.com/2_prod062.htm (from web search, no supply)
limited sourcing on the above, and in some cases none found so far. then there's the dual-pots... and etc.
so, has anyone tried this to change the taper of the pot? i've tried it, graphed it, but there seems to be no change (audibly) for me..
and how can you apply this to change a speed control? what's the best taper to use? I tried linear and the rate just mashed up on the top (full counter) portion.
I just modified a 50K linear taper pot into a 25K 18% log taper for the rate pot on the Mutron Flanger build.
The tried a 25KC pot, but the slow rate was too small an area, and the fast rate too large.
Mutron used a custom pot according to the factory parts list. My partner on the build, Dino (digi2t) supplied resistances at different rotation of the original flanger's rate pot, and I was able to emulate it.
This does work, although there are limitations.
Quote from: John Lyons on September 13, 2008, 07:51:24 PM
I've read the secret life of pots a few times.
The concepts are there but more examples are needed.
There are (at least) a couple ways to alter pot values with respect to taper.
One resistor across a pot, one resistor across the wiper and each outer lug.
Depending on the fixed resistor's value you can get a different response.
Thanks for the graphs zyxwyvu
I don't have any simulation software.
Would you be interested in making some graphs with different fixed resistances for the other
configurations? It would be great to get this in the wiki.
Here are some schematics for other configurations.
(http://www.mrdwab.com/john/temp/pot-taper.jpg)
Sometimes I use make the resistance higher in the log voltage divider to get a "super audio" taper level control
It's at unity when half way up, then after half it ramps up a good bit to boost an amp etc.
The rev. audio configuration is great for Fuzz Face and speed controls or tremolos and oscillators.
john
I've read that the original Vox wah pots had something like an "S" taper, if so you could buy one of those cheap linear taper wah pots that AES sells in a few values, and use the "S" tapering resistors to approximate the old Vox wah pot taper. I might try that, to see what happens.
Al
really glad this thread was bumped - whenever i try to find definitive info on just bridging the outer lugs of a pot, i can only find info on bridging lugs next to each other. so thanks for the graphs & schematics, guys - really informative. Ctrl+D!
Right I'm super duper confused! Why bother connect to leg 3 (the ground leg) at all - It seems like unnecessary wiring? Why not just connect legs one and two to the circuit (we're just using the pot as a series resistor right?) and if you want to taper it, put the appropriate resistor across those legs in parallel?
Please enlighten me :D
Cheers,
ff
> Why bother connect to leg 3
Some day the wiper (pin 2) will lose contact with the pot resistor.
Tying the "unused" pin means when that happens it only goes to "10" instead of to infinity.
Depending on the circuit, this may or may not matter much.
It really is easier to bend some extra wire to the idle pin and solder than to think about how it would go wrong.
Ok I get it, its not necessary, it's just prudent!
Thanks PRR!
please delete this. sorry for the trouble.
Am I too stupid to comprehend this matter or my pots are just weird?
http://web.archive.org/web/20210203023928/https://www.elby-designs.com/webtek/documents/tailoringpotentionometers.pdf
According to this PDF file's 5th Figure, I need to solder a 100k resistor between 2 active lugs of my 1m linear pot and it becomes logarithmic, right?
Mine becomes however something completely different, it reads around 80k or something. For Rev.Log, what shall I do? Add a resistor of 10m?
Thing is, the circuit I deal with right now is Small Stone and there are only 2 lugs connected. 3rd one is empty, or shorted to 2nd.
Could you plz stop duble-posting.? (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66471.40)