DIY & Modded Wah Picture Thread. please post any and all wah pictures you have!
interior, exterior, action shots anything.
to kick off:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF9717.jpg?t=1312567451)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF9844.jpg?t=1312567398)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF9747.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF9734.jpg?t=1312567714)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF9541.jpg?t=1312567654)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF9565.jpg?t=1312567788)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF9758a.jpg?t=1312568757)
although vox is written, this is no more a vox:
(http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy9/Gila_Crisis/improhope001.jpg)
(http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy9/Gila_Crisis/improhope002.jpg)
Inside the circuit was converted to Boomerang specs with 6 position rotary switch for the sweep cap (5.6n, 10n, 15n, 22n, 68n, 100n), middle control (10k pot, since the middle resistor on the boomerang is normally 4k7), foxrox-output-buffer-clone and a series-split-parallel switch for the 2 inductors:
(http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy9/Gila_Crisis/improhope004.jpg)
looks great! what are your favorite settings on the sweep cap? i repaired a keeley modded crybaby, it has series/parallel settings for the dual inductors. i noticed some of the inductor settings made the sound very deep ( series, i presume).
also, i played around with a boomerang clone, i also replaced the 4.7k R for a 10k pot for the R off Q1 base to inductor, except as a trim. you know what? i liked the 5k setting best, i guess that is part of the boomerang magic.
normally I use 10, 15 or 22, I like to have more sound options. Yep the inductors in series are really deep sounding.
about the mid pot it's never in the same position and I like how it affects the sound. I never understood the "Q mod" by replacing the 33k in parallel with the inductor, to me to middle pot it's a more effective mod to tune the Q of the wah
Just started building this. Waiting on a delivery before I can finish it. It'll be housed in an old Frontline volume pedal, which is basically a Colorsound Wah shell.
(http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/2289/wahl.jpg)
i like it. who made that red inductor? looks bloody, awesome.
That first pics giving the inspiration to maybe convert my old crybaby to true bypass. It's a Thomas Organ wah with the "Stack 'o" inductor.
Nice pics, Joe.
Quote from: joegagan on August 06, 2011, 11:06:17 AM
i like it. who made that red inductor? looks bloody, awesome.
It's a Whipple inductor & one of his boards. You can get his stuff on Ebay & he's a good bloke too.
oh , ok whipple guy. he is a frined of mine on facebook, but we don't really chat. he is into cars and alot of stuff. interesting guy.
gmoon, thanks. go for it on your old crybaby.
on any future thomas TBP conversions, my new interior aesthetic is going to be carling dpdts to make the interior look more period correct. those blue 3pdts look like sunglasses on the mona lisa.
(http://rookery.s3.amazonaws.com/1058500/1058973_ea07_625x1000.jpg)
Hi joegagan,
I have several wah and wah fuzz pedal projects dans les cartons (in the closet, awaiting), and all the required stuff to make experimentations, but no time these time - pest !!!
What I have done and took picture of - at the moment - is this :
A Colorsound Swell Pedal to Vintage Wah transformation :
(http://img10.hostingpics.net/pics/781897IMG_6308.jpg)
A dead CryBaby to Vintage Wah transformation :
(http://img10.hostingpics.net/pics/903833IMG_6302.jpg)
I hope I will find the time to go further soon - designing / tayloring wah is interesting...
A+!
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/100_1733.jpg)
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/100_1732.jpg)
Here you go Joe G.
The best thing about this is the shell for 5 bucks at the flea market. That is one of the tonepad or GGG pcb's I made with all the mods.
Sounds like shite actually. I have a bunch of old crazy pots here to try with a boomerang circuit and a handful of inductors(thanks Joe) to mess with one of theses days...
awwright, france and spain checkin in!
bruno, i love the large inductor and amp style build of the top one. also like the single strip wah , that look is cool.
chris, that is one hell of a 5 dollar find. i hope you leave it all rusty. that looks swell. please let us see the rest of your experiments as you get time to do them.
(http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/thumb/DSCN8610.JPG) (http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/big/DSCN8610.JPG) (http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/thumb/DSCN8612.JPG) (http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/big/DSCN8612.JPG)
(http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/thumb/DSCN8613.JPG) (http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/big/DSCN8613.JPG) (http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/thumb/DSCN8615.JPG) (http://thmq.mysteria.cz/CBPlus/big/DSCN8615.JPG)
click for higher resolution..
Basic CB with input (G-2) and output (JFET) buffers (and status LED). Input buffer makes input buffer for my whole signal chain. Output buffer is not used. Later I have yet added switch to switch between RED FASEL and original stock inductor (I was missing original character in some ocasions, switch is most time in the "stock" position actually).
T.
Joe, that's a badass wah shell you've made there... there's something really cool about the rusty body, oxidized chrome, and orange paint on the vox treadle
Old, banged up, and most importantly, used/loved wahs have a hell of a lot more mojo than "professionally" "distressed" guitars
I also like the gearless mechanism in Pigyboy's wah... is that DIY?
tomas, cool. did you etch that board? i picked up a red fasel in a used wah recently, will have to give it another try.
phil, thank you so much, that is what turned me on, seeing these really beat up old wahs on stage and pedalboards, they look like a million gigs.
the one you mention wasn't a vox treadle but a regular thomas CB that i stenciled the vox logo into, then polished away while watching tv, plus recoating and rubbing (lather rinse repeat). i wanted it to look like someone removed a logo years back but didn't remove the glue. the colors are just colors i like. after aging the alum with battery acid, i rubbed again and hit with a couple coats of lacquer.
chris can jump in here, but i think that plastic loop cam/rod assembly is the stock colorsound mechanism from certain eras, i have seen this on many colorsound wahs and swells.
^^
Yeah, like Joe said, that is just the colorsound cam type mechanism to give the pots a different turn ratio. I never really thought about it needing that in this original shell as it was a swell pedal, which is basically a volume pedal, and there is really no need for is to be any other ratio than 1:1.
Yeah Joe - I am gonna leave it like it is - no black dye job on that 40 year old :)
volume pedals need non-concentric action just as much as wahs do, even with log tapers
since most gear or rack setups can only manage approx 170 - 180 degrees of rotation ( i think pots are usually around 270* rotation?), the mechanism must go from zero to near full value in less movement. i was building passive volume pedals using NOS allen bradley 1 meg lin. pots, but the toedown value only went to around 450k if the heel down setting was zero.
Quote from: joegagan on August 07, 2011, 02:28:30 PM
tomas, cool. did you etch that board? i picked up a red fasel in a used wah recently, will have to give it another try.
Thanks Joe! Yep, I did. Red Fasel sounds "vintage" to my ears, much more Hendrix-like compared to stock inductor, stock on the other hand makes "deeper" effect I would say.. I'm happy to have both options (in opposite with vocal switch and frequency switch, I had these there before and I had found them useless for me). T.
Tales of Wah
Started with the basic Cry Baby circuit added a Whipple, an IC input buffer, an AMZ Mosfet Booster on the output, Geofex Mosfet polarity protection, six position cap switch and trimmers for vocal trim, bass trim and mid trim.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3514.jpg) (http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3516.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3283-1.jpg) (http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2450-1.jpg)
New jacks and battery clip. Note sides of enclosure.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2478.jpg)
The rest of this fun time was outlined in another thread some time ago but a quick recap.
Cap switch hole... too big!
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2387.jpg)
OK fixed that, feeling good!
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2440.jpg)
Installed new dpdt footswitch for true bypass... no improvement in tone sucking!
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2482.jpg)
Closer inspection of the enclosure.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2491.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2492.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2494.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2496.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2497.jpg)
Only so much you can do with JB Weld.
The End
dave
That wah enclosure is nuts Dave.
I can only imagine the frustration there... :icon_confused:
This wah is what got me started repairing,modding and building pedals. it has been broken for about 90% of its 16 years of excistence.
I have rebuilt it so many times that the only original part is the enclosure.
after every rebuild it started failing withing 2 weeks. the latest build pictured here though has been working for half a year now.
It sounds really nice after the fuzz with guitar volume backed.although i still have problems getting it to work properly with my germanium fuzz->wah->vibe->fulldrive 2 (on this low gain setting it loses volume).
the added buffer doesnt help with that.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/Liquitone%20Effects/DSC02273.jpg)
one 3 position rotary to select off/on/on with outputbuffer, the led on the side indicates power on.
one 4 position rotary switch to select between sweep caps.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/Liquitone%20Effects/DSC02272.jpg)
2 bc109b transistors with hfe around 400. the red fasel i had in it turned out to be microphonic,
it picked up every thump,click and movement of the enclosure, and also it would oscilate like mad,. especially on the bassier sweep cap settings
I changed it with a standard inductor with is either from the original vox or my crybaby, I can't remember. no more microphonics, still a little bit of oscilation
My experience so far with Wah's is that although its quite a simple circuit it's also one of the most difficult to get working properly and sound right.
gain, mid, bass, vocal, red fasel, true by pass and leds mods
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/wah.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/wah1.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/Efectos/S7007081.jpg)
those wahs look like they are floating on a beam of blue light. love it !
the dual gang boomerang failed, the pot got mechanically stiff within about 10 minutes of testing. the new version has an offset gear to try and spread out the sweep a little , i made a nylon spring loaded guide for the gear. a lot of the boomerang hardware has been replaced.
pot is a hotpotz2 with a 47k resistor from middle to ground. gear was made from a gored out/cut stock dunlop round gear but placed on a fabbed insert made of plastic, bonded to the shaft. beginning of video shows the custom mechanism.
i like the way it sounds ( and reacts to the foot) , but i haven't compared it to a real boomerang with stock 25k pot yet. the foot feel is really smooth. i used to dislike the dearmond/boomer casing but i now realize it was because sometimes the gears were worn out and weird. or misaligned or something.
This was my third wah mod, made at the request of one of my guitar players to match the previous two I and the other guitar player were using.
I also built the AMZ boost, placed after the wah circuit. The boost is permanently on 10, with overall output controlled by a pot to ground.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/photo.jpg)
GCB-95 was the basis, body to be stripped and repainted.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/163882_1756453239141_1473278851_31865908_4740414_n.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/166475_1756453439146_1473278851_31865909_2968346_n.jpg)
I added a switch to the voicing resistor, and used a pot with a pull-switch for the output signal and to change the bass and gain of another resistor in the circuit. Added a 3PDT footswitch for true-bypass and LED indicator. Added the re-issued red fasel inductor.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/163682_1756454639176_1473278851_31865916_502526_n.jpg)
After repaint and decals added...
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/165225_1756454039161_1473278851_31865913_8346125_n.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/167844_1756453839156_1473278851_31865911_3486614_n.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/167996_1756453959159_1473278851_31865912_2245821_n.jpg)
A few more LEDs than necessary...
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/165717_1756454279167_1473278851_31865914_1266823_n.jpg)
Quote from: joegagan on August 15, 2011, 03:45:43 PM
pot is a hotpotz2 with a 47k resistor from middle to ground.
i like the way it sounds ( and reacts to the foot) , but i haven't compared it to a real boomerang with stock 25k pot yet. the foot feel is really smooth.
I tryed this on my boomerangized vox, but i went back to the 33k res form lug 1 to ground. with your method the "action" of the pedal is a lot smoother but for my taste it lost all the funk! :P
gila, i think i know what you mean. when you say 'lost the funk' i interpret this as not as much quacky treble. i revoiced the wah again last night, will put up a second sound clip for comparison. i think if i turn the amp down a little it will come across a little better.
sewage, i like that red wah. i see in the one photo you did very thorough metalwork to prep. looks like you did two of them
cool looking wah with the red paint and all those symbols.
Quote from: joegagan on August 16, 2011, 09:30:39 AM
gila, i think i know what you mean. when you say 'lost the funk' i interpret this as not as much quacky treble. i revoiced the wah again last night, will put up a second sound clip for comparison. i think if i turn the amp down a little it will come across a little better.
the up and down position sound the same, but the transition from down to up became too smooth
Quote from: sewage666 on August 15, 2011, 05:03:42 PM
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c160/sewage666/166475_1756453439146_1473278851_31865909_2968346_n.jpg)
I can't imagine how long it took you to remove ALL of that coating that well :icon_eek:
Sanding paint that well is hard enough but, to get through all of the paint (or powder coat :-\) on the Dunlop enclosures is madness!!
I've posted these in the pictures-thread last year, but here goes:
(http://www.elisanet.fi/pylkklee/kuvat/160110%20054%20pieni.jpg)
(http://www.elisanet.fi/pylkklee/kuvat/160110%20065%20pieni.jpg)
Empty shell from smallbear, basic wah circuit with output buffer + 4-throw rotary to switch voicing.
Stripping the black paint was fairly easy with Nitromors, by the way.
What's the internal toggle switch for?
An old volume pedal enclosure. Doug Hammond's modded Crybaby on vero - input/output buffers, plus a couple of the ideas from RG Keen's wah article, gain boost on toggle switch and rotary caps switch for sweep.
(http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/45648/2243474420102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
(http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/46805/2223045180102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
I'd only put a couple of sweep caps on a switch if I did it again, most seslctions aren't much use.
Wah Bender: Colorsound Wah with added silicon Tonebender fuzz - one of those huge Colorsound cases! This one is out there in the world somewhere.
(http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/16275/2713294150102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
(http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/46411/2717470710102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
Quote from: Fishface on August 18, 2011, 04:23:52 AM
What's the internal toggle switch for?
To switch the direction around, heel becomes the treble end.
Quote from: phector2004 on August 07, 2011, 02:11:44 PM
Joe, that's a badass wah shell you've made there... there's something really cool about the rusty body, oxidized chrome, and orange paint on the vox treadle
Old, banged up, and most importantly, used/loved wahs have a hell of a lot more mojo than "professionally" "distressed" guitars
I also like the gearless mechanism in Pigyboy's wah... is that DIY?
It's the same on those big steel expression pedals by boss. Concidering buiding a wah into mine since i never use it...
Vocal mod, true bypass, removed the buffer, increased the gain, Led, And I made the Knob for the vocal mod
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/arawngwydion/08182011128.jpg)
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/arawngwydion/08182011130.jpg)
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/arawngwydion/08182011131.jpg)
Figured I'd share my Wah project...
(http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/6452/toejamwahfinal.jpg)
By earthscum (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/earthscum) at 2011-04-05
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5888/gutz.jpg)
By earthscum (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/earthscum) at 2011-04-03
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/7742/toejamwah.jpg)
By earthscum (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/earthscum) at 2011-04-03
I have a DOD FX 17 that I need to un-mod so I can re-mod it right. Converted to 2nd order lowpass from the crap-sounding bandpass. Now I decided I'm gonna make it switchable, and make the high pass section of the "bandpass" mode adjustable, probably just rotary switch with caps, or a pot to change the current to the OTA to reduce the sweep. Hope to get to it within the month... I screwed up the "5V" out, lol. Now I want to tap into my Nurse Quacky with the treadle, but I have to fix the DOD first.
Quote from: Geoff Leonard on August 18, 2011, 01:17:49 PM
Quote from: Fishface on August 18, 2011, 04:23:52 AM
What's the internal toggle switch for?
To switch the direction around, heel becomes the treble end.
Hmm - interesting :)
Quote from: davent on August 07, 2011, 09:18:42 PM
Only so much you can do with JB Weld.
The End
dave
Check these out:
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ (http://www.aluminumrepair.com/)
http://durafix.com/ (http://durafix.com/)
http://www.weld-aluminum.com/ (http://www.weld-aluminum.com/)
in the us: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3383743102P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3383743102P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2) as well as various aluminum brazing rods. Other hardware stores should have the stuff as well.
There are all sorts of aluminum brazing rods around. Your local welding supply will probably have them in bundles of 5 (outside of a full box). Also check your local auto stores. Sometimes they carry Al brazing rods as well. Make sure you specify propane. There is one rod I see at stores that is about 1/4" square rod that melts and saturates cracks, as well as builds up and ends up stronger than the aluminum you're fixing. My dad has used the stuff on outer casings for dirt bikes and never had a failure, and since it isn't undercutting, you don't have a new possible break point at the edge of a weld. It's kind of like soldering, almost the same feel, but you have a torch that tries to blow puddles around (use to your advantage on larger areas).
Thanks for that info Dave! There may be life after JB Weld.
Take care
dave
Forgot to mention... I was at Harbor Freight and saw they have some as well... probably enough rods to make an entire box, lol... but it was about $15.
thanks david, that is good advice.
my latest:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF0008.jpg)
DBT stands for 'death by treble'
a trebly fuzz loosely based on the fy2 thread driving the modded wah.
only a bypass switch, fuzz and wah permanently married to one another, and no knobs either- what you hear is what it is.
( the FY2 is si q1/ge q2 npn with diodes to ground at end as well). lots of tweaks to make it feed the wah the way you hear it here:
That run you do at 1:09 coupled with the wah is freaking AWESOME! I totally dig Joe.
thank you ahren. i have a favorite moment, right around 3:26 to 3:30, seems right at the end i finally actually bonded with the pedal. vid was recorded within minutes of completing the pedal after 5 days of on and off tweaking and troubleshooting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF0018.jpg)
Here are a couple of odd wahs.
The first is a Tim Escobedo mix. A Punch-In-The-Face fuzz driving a Gargletron filter. Back about 4 years ago or so when I was building the Gargletron, jmusser was one of the only people who posted a build report. I asked him how he liked it and he told me he wouldn't keep it if he didn't have the Punch-In-The-Face in front of it. Since the PITF was so simple I put both in the shell. There are DPDT bypass switches on the other side. This way you can have wah, fuzz wah or fuzz. Since the rocker controls the wah it has no effect when you only have fuzz on, but why not have the option for fuzz only, right?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/chirock/music%20gear/P1070120.jpg)
This next one is a TychoBrahe Parapedal. I was suprised to find a long-shaft dual 100k pot locally, but the Parapedal calls for a 10k dual pot. While I was adding the resistors advised by Analog Alchemy, I found that by lifting one of them, I'd get a huge, amp rattling bass sweep. The switch lifts that resistor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/chirock/music%20gear/P1070123.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/chirock/music%20gear/P1070124.jpg)
Next wah on the list is the Freeper. Built the circuit on perfboard, just need a shell and a hotpot.
freeper? hey!
the workshop. some of these look different now, this was a progress shot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF0078.jpg)
Damn that chevron patterned wah tread on the right looks ace!
yeah it does
i'm afraid i don't have the patience for it
I replaced all capacitors correcting some frequencies in this process and added a bass enhancer to lower frequencies.
It also has a 6 position switch to RANDE adjsutment, an ON / OFF Bass Enhancer and another key to open more the course of the Wah.
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9595/wahmorley2.jpg)
(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/3374/wahmorley5.jpg)
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5840/wahmorley3.jpg)
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/1386/wahmorley4.jpg)
(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2037/wahmorley6.jpg)
guero, that is cool. i like the LEDs. did you modify the little tadpole shaped windows at the led/ldr mechanism? does the bass boost give it a different sweep?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF0420.jpg)
wait, joegagan, are you using an aluminum forge for that, or did you cut it down with a dremel or something? looks good.
A T-Rex Wah! Very Cool!!
(http://www.educolorir.com/t-rex-t7212.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF0420.jpg)
Quote from: joegagan on September 09, 2011, 03:49:09 AM
guero, that is cool. i like the LEDs. did you modify the little tadpole shaped windows at the led/ldr mechanism? does the bass boost give it a different sweep?
No, I don't modify that part, just electronic parts.
Capacitor changes, frequncy adjustment, etc.
The bass Boost don't affect the sweep, just brings up the low end.
it is a standard dunlop top piece cut with grinder, saws on dremel, drill, flame tip on dremel, sanders, hand sanding, more dremel etc.
there will be a piece of lexan bonded up underneath to put back the structural rigidity and give some eery illumination to the cutouts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF0469.jpg)
Gagan for the win!
(http://www.southdacola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/78-OMG-A-Branch.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF0720.jpg?t=1317535708)
(http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/610/w06d.jpg)
(http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/7289/w05t.jpg)
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5073/w09j.jpg)
(http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8724/w10l.jpg)
(http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/416/w07a.jpg)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/7187/w04e.jpg)
(http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9797/w03r.jpg)
(http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1773/w02v.jpg)
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6117/w08.jpg)
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6863/w01f.jpg)
guero, that is looking great. total pro quality. love the red boards and the overall neatness,. excellent!
Quote from: joegagan on October 03, 2011, 03:25:13 AM
guero, that is looking great. total pro quality. love the red boards and the overall neatness,. excellent!
Joe, you are the Wah Master here. :icon_biggrin:
Thanx
I never understood why All Wah's were so expensive for a few parts :\
Can anyone enlighten me ?
i've got it the other way around. i don't understand why they cost so little. musician's friend sells a dunlop crybaby for 80 dollars shipped. and it is a great sounding durable piece of gear.
Here is my wah pedal:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/Naudio/Evawah.jpg)
This was an old crybaby pedal. I modify it a little because I'm a bass player.
I change the colors and front panel logo ;)
Btw. Eva is my small daughter ;)
very cool, nice gloss on the red. i see you have an extra jack? also the front logo plate is pretty.
Quote from: DavenPaget on October 08, 2011, 12:40:47 AM
I never understood why All Wah's were so expensive for a few parts :\
Can anyone enlighten me ?
I can... Hyundai vs. International. Bic vs. Zippo.
Actually, I'll use Zippo lighters as an example. There are so many Zippo knock-offs, and the are made out of cheap sheet metal, crapnasty hollow rivets, and chrome to cover the brazing. A REAL Zippo is a drawn-tube design, brass shell. A REAL Zippo has solid pin rivets.
What does it matter? It's about the quality of a mechanical piece. Just like a Zippo, a Wah has to endure some fantastic abuse. If you look at cheap knock-off Zippos, the flint wheels are thin, floppy on their axle. They usually just fall apart. Wah pedals can't do that. You could have a 500 lb. blues guy standing on the thing, and you don't want it to crack under the pressure. Plus, just like the flint wheel, you are rocking it back and forth... how many times throughout it's life?
And, the only other justifiably expensive part, the Pot. Everything that applies above, is as so below. Except, you also have a wiper scraping back and forth across a carbon track. A little bit of ruggedness built here will ensure a long life.
I'm not touching the inductor. I think that it's no more special than a Fet. Each one varies, there's a range that works with the stock "crybaby" circuit, yada-yada-yada. Hell, heat shrink a nail, wrap a ton of thin magnet wire around it, and tweak the circuit to match, if you feel inspired to do so. The core material, IMHO, has more of an effect than than the wire, but you can make even crap work just fine. But, that's my opinion. I wouldn't go by it, lol.
Quote from: joegagan on October 08, 2011, 12:52:40 AM
i've got it the other way around. i don't understand why they cost so little. musician's friend sells a dunlop crybaby for 80 dollars shipped. and it is a great sounding durable piece of gear.
MF sells it cheap , not quite in my area , and i hate to get it mailed .
i got quoted 195 for the classic crybaby .
And 130 for a crummy wah .
My case was i was even quoted 235 for the KH model .
That was my pet peeve .
I've got few options for getting store or local deals but in the last year i've managed to get 2 Cry Baby's and a Vox for between $28 and $52 including shipping. One of those was brand new in box with the plastic protection still on the pedal. That one was advertised as U.FIX but after sitting on my shelf for a year finally pulled it out to trouble shoot, put a battery in and it works fine. All purchased on ebay, just have to be real patient, the deals eventually come up. If you're in the States you should be able to do it for even less with only having to pay for domestic shipping.
dave
Quote from: joegagan on October 08, 2011, 05:49:42 AM
very cool, nice gloss on the red. i see you have an extra jack? also the front logo plate is pretty.
I use 3pdt switch for true bypass + external switching. The external switch change my bass amp channels. In this case I can configure EQ of the wah pedal from the second channel of my amp.
Both my Vox and Crybaby. Both true bypass and both are set up the same. Except the transister.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6151/6228538748_837917a0fb_b.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6035/6228539724_975d8296d1_b.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/6228540600_7f421f5612_b.jpg)
The Crybaby
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6238/6228542948_f4232ab619_b.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6228543864_c628e4e846_b.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6043/6228024209_9e20346c46_b.jpg)
I might remove the huge 4uf cap with a smaller 4uf cap like the Vox has. Its kind of tight once you put the bottom on.
Great wahs everyone. Lets see some more! :icon_twisted:
paully, very cool. nice neat work. i dig the way vox chose to detail the inside of their wahs even 10-15 years ago by specifiying a cool aluim cover over the standard hotpotz2s that dunlop used since mid 90s (really the most durable wahpot i have tested).
i also love the rows of caps in your CB on the side of the casing,. that looks great.
Quote from: joegagan on October 11, 2011, 11:06:08 AM
paully, very cool. nice neat work. i dig the way vox chose to detail the inside of their wahs even 10-15 years ago by specifiying a cool aluim cover over the standard hotpotz2s that dunlop used since mid 90s (really the most durable wahpot i have tested).
i also love the rows of caps in your CB on the side of the casing,. that looks great.
Thanks for your kind words.
i just noticed - thumbs up for use of the inner washer fot the little pots. i have had numerous ( boutique, expen$ive, won't mention the names here) pedals in for repair that had loose little alpha pots like this. the inner washer goes a long way in assisting to be able to put sufficient pressure on the nut before stripping. a HUGE prob on these crapmetal bushings.
Quote from: davent on October 08, 2011, 07:08:58 PM
I've got few options for getting store or local deals but in the last year i've managed to get 2 Cry Baby's and a Vox for between $28 and $52 including shipping. One of those was brand new in box with the plastic protection still on the pedal. That one was advertised as U.FIX but after sitting on my shelf for a year finally pulled it out to trouble shoot, put a battery in and it works fine. All purchased on ebay, just have to be real patient, the deals eventually come up. If you're in the States you should be able to do it for even less with only having to pay for domestic shipping.
dave
Well i don't live in the states . or even uk . but in singapore . Damn .
-Dave
Singapore!- that certainly does complicate matters... no idea what happens with shipping when you go that far afield. On ebay right now there's a Cry Baby seller in Isreal who lists worldwide shipping for $15us so there are still deals you might be able to take advantage of.
dave
Quote from: davent on October 11, 2011, 07:25:03 PM
Singapore!- that certainly does complicate matters... no idea what happens with shipping when you go that far afield. On ebay right now there's a Cry Baby seller in Isreal who lists worldwide shipping for $15us so there are still deals you might be able to take advantage of.
dave
Still , wouldn't trust something built so solid for only 15$ ... Smells fishy .
Okay to clear things up, the shipping is $15 worldwide, the actual cost of the pedal is yet to be determined, but when i found the sale it was still pretty reasonable for a working Cry Baby.
dave
Quote from: davent on October 12, 2011, 05:40:20 PM
Okay to clear things up, the shipping is $15 worldwide, the actual cost of the pedal is yet to be determined, but when i found the sale it was still pretty reasonable for a working Cry Baby.
dave
WHAT THE ?!
That's a very high shipping price .
Oh well , MF doesn't ship the Crybaby to my place .
Standard Internation (MF) Shipping does charge a huge amount for a KG100 plus KG412 stack ... the shipping costs half the stack . lol
new project, wanted to see if i could make a late model gcb95 sound very different and cool with as few changes as possible.
it has only 4 caps added, one transistor change ( to npn ge), one resistor jumpered, one resistor swapped, and a 470k pot. here is waht it sounds like, quite gainy and dirty, i like it. hits a tube amp really nice all on its own. sound really good with fuzz as well. kind of a dirty warble.
This is incomplete, but far enough along that I can show and tell.
I picked up a stock GCB-95 on Craigslist for $20. I removed the buffer, made it true bypass, added an LED. And then...
I added the envelope section from the meat-named pedals. I used an opamp to take the signal right off the switch with a bit of gain, and then put the sensitivity control after that. The envelope section is using an NE5532. It is the only opamp I have that worked, and it isn't working particularly well. It freaks out when you feed it below 1.4 volts, hence the bad sensitivity and release. I need to get an LM1458, and I anticipate it will work much, much better.
The controls are Sensitivity, Attack, Release from front to back. The LDR is DIY, and is inserted between the wah pot and ground. This allows the wah treadle to function as a range control, setting the peak of the sweep. The footswitch shorts the photocell so it is like it isn't even there, and the wah functions 100% normally with no change in tone when the auto-wah feature is bypassed. The jack for the footswitch defaults to defeating the auto-wah. Inserting a bare connector makes it default to auto-wah.
The footswitch is made in a fence post cap that I found on the ground at a park. I looked at all the fence posts I could find, and didn't see one missing, so... uh... I did my civic duty and disposed of the trash. ;) I had to fabricate the aluminum bracket. It took a bit of thinking to get the wiring right. It converted my wah pedal to a radio for a while, but I worked it out, and it is now dead silent.
(http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/4854/img8164r.jpg)
(http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/2945/img8158h.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/249/img8158h.jpg/) (http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9813/img8167d.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/810/img8167d.jpg/) (http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9273/img8173m.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/img8173m.jpg/) (http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/1485/img8171d.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/810/img8171d.jpg/)
Sorry for the bad playing on this one... the video is really just to document how bad it is working with the NE5532.
If anyone wants it, I'll gladly release the layout and wiring diagram. It was an easy build, but putting it all together wasn't so easy.
I'll post a better video once I get everything smoothed out. :)
Mike
love it, nice work! cool to see the idea and then the execution.
Yeah! That's cool mike. Sounds good, if it sounds better with the 1458 then jeez... :icon_biggrin:
I dig that PCB as well.
Wah pedal with fx loop starts at about 5:40 . Love this thing.
Zambo
So what is the routing of the FX loop?
Wah > TS > Octave > out with the Switch in the
Wah setup to bypass all?
Cool wah Joe.
What is the small box fuzz?
Yep. its actualy wah>Octave>TS>out to switch to bypass all. I am no good with transistors so my friend made it for me. Does anyone make these already??
Does anyone make these already??
Not that I know of but it's a cool way to do a wah/OD/etc chain
when you step down on the wah.
Forgot to say that the amp sounds good!
that is the government-lacky-built tonebender mk2. sounds excellent. he did a nice job on the build too.
This is a Boomerang Wah circuit I put in this old Colorsound Volume pedal case. Joe Gagan is my inspiration to do this. He supplied me with a bunch on inductors and I came across a 22k neg log pot that sounds great. I also replaced the 1uf with 2u2 tantalum caps and I used a .015uf paper-in-oil cap for the .01 for extra points. No pops or cracks. It sounds amazing to me. There are two quacky vocal points on the long throw of the treadle. Both have a real curve in the Q-point. Now I have to make another using the Supa Wah layout with a 1H5 inductor & Ge transistors to go in the crybaby case Joe sent. Will make a video when my wife gets back with the camera -
Question - Do you guys put the wah in front or behind the fuzz? After the fuzz this one sounds good - really round, vocal-ish tones and before the fuzz the things still quacks but the fuzz is a lot more on top of the tone.
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/Boomerang%20Wah/Boomerang2.jpg)
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/Boomerang%20Wah/Boomerang1.jpg)
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/Boomerang%20Wah/Boomerang3.jpg)
Quote from: Pigyboy on November 19, 2011, 08:19:40 AM
Question - Do you guys put the wah in front or behind the fuzz?
In my case my primary distortion is a Line 6 Pocket POD which does some automatic EQ levelling to try and get a consistent sound for a patch regardless of the guitar/amp used (you can tell it what kind of cab/amp you're using and it sorts that end out too) and if you run a wah into the front of it on some patches with heavy EQ it works like a volume pedal and on others the balancing means parts of the frequency spectrum run at a very low bit depth.
When I'm using anything else though, in front, it just sounds so much stronger.
(http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4383/wahgold2.jpg)
(http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8215/wahgold3.jpg)
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/4033/wahgold4.jpg)
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/7636/wahgold5.jpg)
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/7962/wahgold6.jpg)
(http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/3937/wahgold7.jpg)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9420/wahgold8.jpg)
(http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/874/wahgold9.jpg)
(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/273/wahgold10.jpg)
^^^
That is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen!
How do you mask the pcb and what humongous circuit is that? And how did you finish the case?
BTW I just got a catalog from a place in China I buy from and now they have wah boxes
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/Screenshot2011-11-23at95937AM.png)
I asked for a price for 10 and a price for 50 shells. I am doing a big order of other stuff and maybe I can get some of these if people want them. I'll post the price when he sends it later.
PM me if you want a copy of the catalog
Quote from: Pigyboy on November 23, 2011, 03:54:43 AM
^^^
That is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen!
How do you mask the pcb and what humongous circuit is that? And how did you finish the case?
BTW I just got a catalog from a place in China I buy from and now they have wah boxes
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/Screenshot2011-11-23at95937AM.png)
I asked for a price for 10 and a price for 50 shells. I am doing a big order of other stuff and maybe I can get some of these if people want them. I'll post the price when he sends it later.
PM me if you want a copy of the catalog
Thanks for your kind words.
I masked the board with a stained clear coat for PCB's
The circuit is a bunch of mods that I found and put togeter in the same board, I like the clean and organized visual
I removed the old paint for this job
(http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab86/pigyboy_2009/Boomerang%20Wah/Boomerang2.jpg)
I made this for Joe... a vid of this wah with the No.83 Fuzz - Check out them nice socks!
cool video, thanks for the mention! would like to hear the wah with some more low end in the video, hard to tell what the sweep is doing. the fuzz is cool , too. i've said it elsewhere, that #83 fuzz has a strange old/new feel that is refreshing.
In other threads, I'd asked about anyone modifying the Ernie Ball 6185 Wah pedal. Well, my brand new pedal finally arrived, so the first thing I did was take it apart. Here are some insights to the insides:
https://picasaweb.google.com/116590779301281658338/ErnieBall6185WahPedal?authkey=Gv1sRgCNyesvSJj_GW0wE (https://picasaweb.google.com/116590779301281658338/ErnieBall6185WahPedal?authkey=Gv1sRgCNyesvSJj_GW0wE)
It is certainly a crowded space. I chose this pedal because its companion volume pedal is built like a tank. This is smaller than the full-size VP, perhaps the same as a VP-Jr. Fortunately I got this one for a nice price. But I am probably going to acquire a "standard" style shell for some custom experiments. (Any spare copies of the GGG PCB available? They're discontinued on the GGG site.)
Enjoy the pix! I threw in a few extra shots of the basement workshop which has accumulated years of stuff and is quite a mess. Nevertheless, you can see equipment dedicated to my other noisy hobby as well as the album cover I painted in high school, several decades ago.
The standard mods and a mid emphasis switch/pot/led
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9823/zw45001.jpg)
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4263/zw45002.jpg)
(http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/9063/zw45003.jpg)
(http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/5572/zw45004.jpg)
(http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6958/zw45005.jpg)
Here's my latest wah. I haven't done anything to it yet but I will soon. I was wondering if anybody would know how old this pedal is. I'm thinking mid to late 80's. It a really good sounding wah and I might just leave this one alone. I will true bypass this one but that's it. The last owner did do some repairs to the pcb and replaced the pot. That's it. I did some google searching can't seem to find much on this setup. Thanks. Here's some pics.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7032/6592092419_ffac1ae779_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7163/6592093891_46df49ba59_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6592095055_a62c8908e9_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6592096369_8c4c806014_b.jpg)
Old wah,1992 according Dunlop Customer Service.
Hot Potz replacement, true bypass, Mid Shape, Booster, 6 steps Range and "Q".
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/8629/wahdour01.jpg)
(http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8470/wahdour02.jpg)
(http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/1943/wahdour03.jpg)
(http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/701/wahdour04.jpg)
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9261/wahdour05.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9695/wahdour06.jpg)
(http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/5356/wahdour07.jpg)
(http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/3282/wahdour08.jpg)
@Güero
You build some really nice wahs. Very clean.
1992? Hmmm. I was thinking older but I guess 92 is old. I never thought to look at the Dunlop Customer Service. I'll check that out. Thanks.
Quote from: paulyy on January 06, 2012, 12:11:26 AM
@Güero
You build some really nice wahs. Very clean.
1992? Hmmm. I was thinking older but I guess 92 is old. I never thought to look at the Dunlop Customer Service. I'll check that out. Thanks.
Thanks !
Just send the Serial Number and ask for fabrication date to customerservice@jimdunlop.com
Quote from: paulyy on December 29, 2011, 12:51:41 AM
Here's my latest wah. I haven't done anything to it yet but I will soon. I was wondering if anybody would know how old this pedal is. I'm thinking mid to late 80's. It a really good sounding wah and I might just leave this one alone. I will true bypass this one but that's it. The last owner did do some repairs to the pcb and replaced the pot. That's it. I did some google searching can't seem to find much on this setup. Thanks. Here's some pics.
Paulyy-- I can't tell you the actual age, but it does have an original "stack o' dimes" inductor. I think it's wise to leave it (basically) as-is.
It's got that edge connector, etc., which flag it as later. The earlier models have wire-wrapped (and soldered) posts. And it's missing the carbon-comp resistors and metallic caps. However, it looks hand-populated and the layout is identical to the earlier board. It's either early Dunlop or could it have been swapped in? (somebody correct me here.)
(I've got a Thomas Organ wah with the "dimes." Sounds good.)
Quote from: Güero on January 06, 2012, 07:55:01 AM
Quote from: paulyy on January 06, 2012, 12:11:26 AM
Thanks !
Just send the Serial Number and ask for fabrication date to customerservice@jimdunlop.com
I think I'll do that :icon_wink: Thanks.
Quote from: gmoon on January 06, 2012, 09:04:32 AM
Quote from: paulyy on December 29, 2011, 12:51:41 AM
Paulyy-- I can't tell you the actual age, but it does have an original "stack o' dimes" inductor. I think it's wise to leave it (basically) as-is.
It's got that edge connector, etc., which flag it as later. The earlier models have wire-wrapped (and soldered) posts. And it's missing the carbon-comp resistors and metallic caps. However, it looks hand-populated and the layout is identical to the earlier board. It's either early Dunlop or could it have been swapped in? (somebody correct me here.)
(I've got a Thomas Organ wah with the "dimes." Sounds good.)
I'm leaving the stack o' dimes inductor alone. Everything in the wah seems to sound really good so I don't want to mess with it. I did do the true bypass mod and added a ac adapter to it but that's it. I'm leaving the PCB alone. The last owner did do some repairs, as you can see and had to replace the original pot. So it's not 100% original. All I can say is. It sounds really smooth and creamy. It's my new favorite wah :icon_mrgreen:
Paully, I just hit on this link (http://www.pisotones.com/varios/CryBaby/CryBaby.htm), which details an identical setup as a "transition" Dunlop wah, one with mostly Thomas parts. Probably the earliest Dunlop version made.
I can barely see from the photo, but yours also has the PCB marking described there -- Rectangular with a vintage-script capital "T" logo all around (Thomas?)
Nice find!
Quote from: gmoon on January 07, 2012, 08:39:03 AM
Paully, I just hit on this link (http://www.pisotones.com/varios/CryBaby/CryBaby.htm), which details an identical setup as a "transition" Dunlop wah, one with mostly Thomas parts. Probably the earliest Dunlop version made.
I can barely see from the photo, but yours also has the PCB marking described there -- Rectangular with a vintage-script capital "T" logo all around (Thomas?)
Nice find!
Thanks for that link. I'm guessing who ever was making the pcb's for Thomas was also making them for Jim dunlop when he bought the company. There almost the same. The only difference I see is they changed the layout alittle when they add the plug instead of the post. Thats what I'm thinking it might be. :icon_confused:
This:
(http://www.stevesmusiccenter.com/MorleyPVOBig.jpg)
Became this:
(http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/5176/basswah01.jpg)
(http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8788/basswah02.jpg)
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/1193/basswah03.jpg)
(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1462/basswah04.jpg)
(http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/2006/basswah05.jpg)
(http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/5572/basswah06.jpg)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4960/basswah07.jpg)
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/3240/basswah08.jpg)
(http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2348/basswah09.jpg)
(http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/5830/basswah10.jpg)
(http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/3585/basswah11.jpg)
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/7595/basswah12.jpg)
(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/5364/basswah13.jpg)
(http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/4793/basswah15.jpg)
(http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9748/basswah16.jpg)
(http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/6837/basswah14.jpg)
(http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5411/basswah17.jpg)
(http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6605/basswah18.jpg)
(http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9264/basswah19.jpg)
Wow....
(http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/4759/wahazul01.jpg)
(http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/7461/wahazul02.jpg)
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/223/wahazul03.jpg)
:icon_eek:
insane work on the morley.
What does the curve button do?
Quote from: azrael on January 15, 2012, 03:19:07 PM
:icon_eek:
insane work on the morley.
What does the curve button do?
it´s a Mid shape frequence
(http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/50289/2098597320102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
Recently added a new mod to this one, taken from R.G. Keen's article here: http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm
About halfway down, the Anderton Pot Descratcher - uses a Vactol (LED/LDR combo) to divide the voltage (I think?) and takes the pot out of the signal chain so you don't get the scratchy sounds as it wears in that sweet spot. The vactol changes the resistance to ground and so the sweep, you still need a pot, its not a seeing eye wah or summit!
(http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/47724/2201724870102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
Mine above, situated in the middle of the pic. Vero layout should anyone wish to have a go, the electro is 100uf, power filter I think so possibly could omit.
(http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/48882/2110717640102672897S600x600Q85.jpg)
(http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9643/morleymod001.jpg)
(http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/1363/morleymod002.jpg)
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4763/morleymod003.jpg)
(http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5996/morleymod004.jpg)
(http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2103/morleymod005.jpg)
(http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/229/morleymod006.jpg)
Quote from: Güero on January 26, 2012, 11:27:31 PM
(http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9643/morleymod001.jpg)
(http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2103/morleymod005.jpg)
(http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/229/morleymod006.jpg)
OMG! :o :o :o That is just awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!! :icon_eek: :icon_eek:
@ Güero
The plexie glass under the rubber foot pad is a great idea. You should see if it would work on a crybaby shell. Looks great as all ways. :icon_wink:
Quote from: paulyy on January 27, 2012, 06:13:13 AM
@ Güero
The plexie glass under the rubber foot pad is a great idea. You should see if it would work on a crybaby shell. Looks great as all ways. :icon_wink:
Tks.
Yep! The next one will be the plexy under a Cry Baby rubber :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin:
But I need the customer OK ;)
Hi,
I would like to do the LED mod in my GCB-95. Could you help me out? Where do I have to wire the LED?
Güero-Your builds are absolutely amazing! I love what you're doing with these wah's! I've got an old Morely wah at home that I never, ever use. I'd love to have it looking all awesome like that! What kind of mods did you do? Or did you just put a new circuit in there?
2 boomerangs. one was (re)built as close to stock as i could, the other has some mods that make it a monster. both owned by the same guy. he wanted a vintage one and firebreather.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF1990.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/DSCF1979.jpg)
A birfday gift to my friend just got to send it now! Its an old crybaby rev.d board. I made it true bypass, made it suitable for a bass wah with the rotary switch, and of course an LED.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Picture012.jpg)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Picture011.jpg)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Picture009.jpg)
It might be a little wrong but it translates out to "For that essential Bootsy Collins shit. Happy Birthday homie!
I would cry tears of joy if someone gave me that. Very cool!
Quote from: Güero on January 05, 2012, 10:57:04 PM
Old wah,1992 according Dunlop Customer Service.
Hot Potz replacement, true bypass, Mid Shape, Booster, 6 steps Range and "Q".
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9261/wahdour05.jpg)
Is this an N30 inductor? Which is better N30 compared to new production Red fasel inductor?
Thanks
there was some internet chatter about N30 being a superior magnet material, budda supposedly specified these when dunlop was first building his wahs. later, a coppr plumbing cap covered the budda inductor, so i don't know what those are. peavey bought budda a few years back.
i have seen numerous non-budda dunlops from the early 90s period with the N30 marking on inductor. they actually do sound very good. but the dunlop 90s inductors that look the same without the N30 marking sound just as good. i wonder if they were all the same materials?
i prefer any of these early 90s inductors to any modern fasel. i've tested em all.
Quote from: joegagan on May 03, 2012, 12:04:19 PM
there was some internet chatter about N30 being a superior magnet material, budda supposedly specified these when dunlop was first building his wahs. later, a coppr plumbing cap covered the budda inductor, so i don't know what those are. peavey bought budda a few years back.
i have seen numerous non-budda dunlops from the early 90s period with the N30 marking on inductor. they actually do sound very good. but the dunlop 90s inductors that look the same without the N30 marking sound just as good. i wonder if they were all the same materials?
i prefer any of these early 90s inductors to any modern fasel. i've tested em all.
Thanks Joe,
You said everything !!
:)
Love the boomerangs. I need to get one some day.
everyone's work on the last 3 pages is awesome. guerro's stuff is beautiful and inspiring.
guerro, are you selling these, and what kind of feedback are you getting from your customers?
paulyy, here is what that modboy boomer sounds like.
^^^ is that video showing up? anyway, you can hear here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tcax_hB8xsM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227095_215280915162656_100000422460314_741939_5961870_n.jpg)
Quote from: joegagan on May 04, 2012, 02:18:01 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227095_215280915162656_100000422460314_741939_5961870_n.jpg)
Very nice. Clip sounds good too.
Quote from: joegagan on May 04, 2012, 01:49:51 PM
everyone's work on the last 3 pages is awesome. guerro's stuff is beautiful and inspiring.
guerro, are you selling these, and what kind of feedback are you getting from your customers?
Joe, you are a legend, this compliment coming from you is heaven for me. Thanks!
Yeah, I'm selling the mods and the customer's feedback is great. Versatility, good response, dynamics, good timbre, etc.
Cause, I don't mess only in the new board, I change some componentes values for better frequencies and less saturation.
Quote from: joegagan on May 03, 2012, 12:04:19 PM
there was some internet chatter about N30 being a superior magnet material, budda supposedly specified these when dunlop was first building his wahs. later, a coppr plumbing cap covered the budda inductor, so i don't know what those are. peavey bought budda a few years back.
i have seen numerous non-budda dunlops from the early 90s period with the N30 marking on inductor. they actually do sound very good. but the dunlop 90s inductors that look the same without the N30 marking sound just as good. i wonder if they were all the same materials?
i prefer any of these early 90s inductors to any modern fasel. i've tested em all.
Thanks Joe,maybe i will try this N30 to my GCB95 with stock inductor the black one with four pins.I also have new production red and yellow fasels.Tried the red and sounds like there's some empty portion of the sweep(heel down) but sound is cleaner.the stock has even sweep from heel down to toe down and is currently installed on my GCB95.
Does anyone happen to have pictures of the crybaby octave wah from
The early 90s? Gcb-95O. Would be amazed if anyone has gut shots of this pedal. I have seen
This wah knocking around once in a blue moon. Seems rare to come by.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF2054.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF2061.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF2021.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/RR75/DSCF2037.jpg)
Damn that sounds nice! Sweet mod. Is that a pretty high gain Germ?
I tried a t-filter wah with a couple Ge's I had (one at a time, they are both decent gain). I was kind of amazed at the sound it made compared to Si. It's almost self limiting in it's bandwidth, full open neither tranny was really screaming overly loud, although the one with higher gain (about 175, I think about 80uA leakage) definitely had a nicer top resonance. The other tranny I tried in it was about 130 with 150 uA or so leakage. It was a lot softer sounding, sounded great after a fuzz (on bass), but was a bit too subtle to put before the fuzz.
thanks! i did not measure the AC187 that went in there, these usually falls into the 70-100 range. in the picture, you can detect a jumper at the E>gd in place of the resistor, and the bias is set by the collector 100k trim.
i did not swap out Q3, and i left the buffer in place.
the sweep cap has an additional .01 under the board ( ceramic for chewiness), which brings overall sweep cap value to .02.
the other jumpered caps you see are to try and broaden the dynamic range.
if you listen carefully to the clip, there is a fair amount of high end still leaking through on heel down. this helps keep the wah sound from disappearing.
Quote from: Earthscum on May 21, 2012, 02:07:57 AM
I tried a t-filter wah with a couple Ge's I had (one at a time, they are both decent gain). I was kind of amazed at the sound it made compared to Si. It's almost self limiting in it's bandwidth, full open neither tranny was really screaming overly loud, although the one with higher gain (about 175, I think about 80uA leakage) definitely had a nicer top resonance. The other tranny I tried in it was about 130 with 150 uA or so leakage. It was a lot softer sounding, sounded great after a fuzz (on bass), but was a bit too subtle to put before the fuzz.
interesting, i never tried a twin T with germaniums.
that modded boomerang sounds awesome! i want one!!
seven, thank you.
i have another one for a customer on the bench. four trimmers, but i wish i had put one on the 47k parallel the inductor.
paul marossy has shown some pics of some BG2 boomers he is repairing from europe. one has a white 68 inductor, which got me wondering if i could do a comparison of the white inductor to the later, more common el rad , but in the same exact pedal for direct comparison.
That was an ordinary GCB-95.
The pattern was inspired in a cultural expression from Brazilian Indians and is called Marajoara style.
As requested by customer, the pedal must be true bypass BUT switchless, just put the foot in the ramp and go crazy. Some relay study made the magic.
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9056/urutau001.jpg)
(http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/6754/urutau005.jpg)
(http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/1879/urutau006.jpg)
(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/5661/urutau007.jpg)
(http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7749/urutau008.jpg)
(http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7208/urutau004.jpg)
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2104/urutau003.jpg)
(http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/6654/urutau002.jpg)
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/4974/urutau009.jpg)
beautiful! a couple questions.
- are there blue LEDs under the treadle making the glow we see in the pics?
- is it true bypass, or are the relays activating a buffered circuit?
- are the graphics painted or decals? love them!
Quote from: joegagan on June 09, 2012, 04:19:39 PM
beautiful! a couple questions.
- are there blue LEDs under the treadle making the glow we see in the pics?
- is it true bypass, or are the relays activating a buffered circuit?
- are the graphics painted or decals? love them!
Tks Joe, let's to the answers.
Yep, there are two rows with 3 leds each - On full time.
Yep again, it's true bypass, just a DPDT relay driving by a transistor that is driving by a 4069 circuit - No buffers in signal path.
I've tried some painting for two times with no good results. That's a water decal with Tamuya band pattern. link to the band : http://www.facebook.com/TamuyaThrash
Urutau is a bird. He lives in Brazilian Amazon. There is a legend that says a indian girl lost your loved man and became this bird. His singing is like a baby crying , nice name for a wah wah.
(http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/2927/wahcromo20005.jpg)
(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3994/wahcromo20001.jpg)
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7774/wahcromo20002.jpg)
(http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/7429/wahcromo20003.jpg)
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4753/wahcromo20004.jpg)
^Güero
How do you paint you wah enclosures?? They look super awesome :)
Do you sand them or use chemicals to remove the black paint from it?
Quote from: Ofek Deitch on June 15, 2012, 07:38:26 AM
^Güero
How do you paint you wah enclosures?? They look super awesome :)
Do you sand them or use chemicals to remove the black paint from it?
Tks!
I always remove the actual paint. This is important for a good results. The painting is made with ar compressor.
i have been doing some boomerang restorations for customers. this one was particularly clean, here is a before and after shot of the interior ( someone had previously 3pdt'd it and installed a 100k propot with limiting resistor). i installed a 50k PEC pot and cleaned things up a bit per customer request.
the screw holes for the feet were stripped so i drilled and tapped for 8-32 screw, worked great. my previous attempts to fill and retap using JBweld, epoxy etc have failed in the past.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/MAestro%20Boomerangs/BGtekbowbeforeafter.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/MAestro%20Boomerangs/bgtek.jpg)
Joe, as always nice job!
A Morley TM Stevens wah that was heavly modified :D Sounds good now!!
(http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9854/rumblemod002.jpg)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/715/rumblemod001.jpg)
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/9186/rumblemod003.jpg)
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2480/tmwah001.jpg)
guero, that one looks super clean, nice and tidy.
here is a new one i just put up on ebay:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/cadbaby/DSCF2484.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/cadbaby/DSCF2469.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/cadbaby/DSCF2442.jpg)
Great looking wah pedal as always guys!
@joegagan=Whats with the red cap on the board. Is the resister still under it and what does the pot? Love the cadillac emblem.
thanks paullllyyy
that is a 3000 pf silver mica bypassing the input resistor. there is also a .001 parallel to it under the board.
the sweep cap has a .001 added under to bring the total @ sweep cap to .011. both .001s are metalized poly.
the input gain is a simple 100k pot to (nearly ) ground at input ( 390 ohm resistor between lug 1 and ground keeps it from shutting signal off completely - prevents panic onstage )
sounds are here. i like it!
Sounds good!
Awesome wah's you got! I reallly like them vintage ones :icon_eek:
Maybe not the right thread but I got a fulltone standard wah with a broken pot, and I'm looking for a replacement..
Tried a 15$ Icar taper which just sounded weird, It seems like fulltone won't sell me a original one..
Any suggestions?
some 'icar' repros are 180k, some are 100k. not sure what fulltone uses, but you might be hearing the difference between 100k and 180k.
the original real icars from the 60s measure 180k in many cases. i doubt they drifted that far, i think they were 180k from the beginning.
wah pots generally fall into two categories. icar and crybaby type. crybaby type ( sometimes called hotpotz 1 & 2 in later years) has a more rapid 'kink' in the sweep. some players get used to this action as it can make the wah more talky, and allows more rapid fast wahing.
the icar shows up as a more gradual ramp, which other players prefer for its more precise expressiveness throughout the wah range.
small bear sells the CTS made mcConopot, which has a customized taper that designer mcconachie claims has an extended mid area. never tried it, although it appears he went to great lengths to have CTS increase the durability.
Banzai sells Icar pots which are sold as FT-wah pots, they look the same as the fulltone pots so got curious if the FT would stand for fulltone. then i found the same pot on the tube amp doctor site and it says;
This pot was designed to have the same characteristic as a vintage ICAR pot found in some of the early wahs.
straight from same manfactuer as the Fulltone item.
I bought 3 of them and installed them on a wah i modified for a friend and on my own modified Vox wah.
I noticed a high pitched whisteling sound which seems to come from the wiper resonating when turning the pot.
I even heard that whisteling sound amplified through my amp, which had me worried for a moment, but after some lubrication and in band practice and live situations I luckely didnt hear the whistle.
the sweep is very nice and vocal. much nicer than the original hotpotz I that where in both wah's
hers the links to the sites;
http://www.banzaimusic.com/FT-WAH-Wah-Potentiometer.html
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/en/shop_Potentiometer_Wah_pots_und_accessories/Wah_pot_fits_Fulltone_Clyde_Wah_Dunlop_Cry_Baby_1160
and heres a soundsample of the wah I put it in;
http://soundcloud.com/liquitone/liquitone-modded-jh-1-wah
Hey! Thanks for the reply...
The replacement pot was an ICAR taper and measured 89k...
The sound goes from very thin to half wah... Tried to reverse the outer lugs with no luck, also tried several positions on the shaft...
Defect pot?
i always do a listening test before engaging the straight gear to make sure i am getting full range of the wah upon adjustment.
if the pot's taper is correct, there will be a fairly large 'full treble' area to allow runout for the switch to engage. this is why linear pots almost never work correctly without some sort of cam mechanism to alter the taper.
likewise, the bass side needs a small 'runout area' to keep the full bass setting from stressing the stops in the pot.
89k is fairly low, but it should work. it may be that the pot is faulty. try a replacement pot.
Before and after.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/1330475481431.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/1330667240092.jpg)
Here's a crybaby i did.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/1329703816462.jpg)
cool swirls! i like them both.
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on July 31, 2012, 01:22:04 AM
Here's a crybaby i did.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/1329703816462.jpg)
Dammit... where's a freakin "Share" to FB button?!? :o
thanks. i did them for the local music shop owner. theres vids of me doing the crybaby on my youtube channel ....if anyone wants something swirled ill do it in exchange for parts/pcbs
Redone of my fulltone wah, first time I swirled and it's AWESOME.
Hopefully I will get the new pot working :D
(http://bildr.no/thumb/1244424.jpeg) (http://bildr.no/view/1244424)(http://bildr.no/thumb/1244422.jpeg) (http://bildr.no/view/1244422)(http://bildr.no/thumb/1244421.jpeg) (http://bildr.no/view/1244421)(http://bildr.no/thumb/1244430.jpeg) (http://bildr.no/view/1244430)
PIO wah.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w28/pocksedd/mojowah2.jpg)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w28/pocksedd/mojowah.jpg)
Quote from: Andr3as on August 04, 2012, 07:27:41 PM
first time I swirled and it's AWESOME.
Do you have a link to a tutorial on how to swirl that way?
I use the borax method for all of my swirls. I keep seeing the method that u used and am curious to try.
Here's a vid of how i swirl:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZ_WU71wuug
The swirl on the Fulltone is fantastic!
Thx guys!
The swirl is pretty easy! I painted the enclosure first (white) when it was dry i dripped on chunks of black and white oil based paint(?) and swirled it with toothpicks! Tried to be careful not to mix the paint into a greyish color.
beros, that is very pretty. the color theme inside that wah is gorgeous. where do those caps come from ? did you etch the board and lay it out especially for those caps?
Quote from: joegagan on July 19, 2012, 02:39:54 PM
i always do a listening test before engaging the straight gear to make sure i am getting full range of the wah upon adjustment.
if the pot's taper is correct, there will be a fairly large 'full treble' area to allow runout for the switch to engage. this is why linear pots almost never work correctly without some sort of cam mechanism to alter the taper.
likewise, the bass side needs a small 'runout area' to keep the full bass setting from stressing the stops in the pot.
89k is fairly low, but it should work. it may be that the pot is faulty. try a replacement pot.
I tried to mess around with the pot, it makes more of a vocal sound turning it manually..
At some point it shunts all sound, moving the wiper to ground?
Ordered a new pot from smallbear, McCon O wah potensiometer. Hopefully this will be better :)
Thanks for the replies! You will hear from me if it doesn't work :icon_lol:
(http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6581/slash005.jpg)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5618/slash001.jpg)
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/3831/slash002.jpg)
(http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4291/slash004.jpg)
(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/8536/slash003.jpg)
What sort of distortion circuit is in those Slash wahs?
Quote from: azrael on August 23, 2012, 12:51:09 AM
What sort of distortion circuit is in those Slash wahs?
I don't trace the distortion section, but as I saw seens to be some kind of ciruit like the Dime Distortion, 3 active eq bands, 1M pot for distortion and 20KD for volume.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/driveshaft/DSCF2863.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF2885.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF2878.jpg)
@joegagan= What kind of layout are you using. Is it a standard wah circut? Nice wah by the way.
that is a boomerang derivative laid out and etched by my partner, zac zagar.
thanks for the compliment!
the buick wah pictured above got a similar board.
here is what the board pictured wah sounds like. it is on ebay now, hope we find a buyer.
@joegagan= Sounds F@#$ing great! I need to find a good boomerang layout. I tryed the noomerang layout but couldnt get it to sound right. Good luck with finding a buyer.
thanks paulyy. appreciate you checking it out.
that one sold, as did the three that came after. thanks for the sentiment!
there is a stripboard layout floating around the web for boomerang. key points when tuning the circ:
a 500ohm trimpot at Q1 E to gd helps dial in gain and growl. adds lows.
replacing the input 68k R with a 100k trim lets you tune the input gain. this gets a different reaction than tuning Q1 emitter, and works well in tandem with it.
the 4.7k R off Q1 base on BG1 schems is a factory error. production Bg1s had 1.5k here, BG2s had 1k. i prefer 2.2k for a more musical sweep.
the 8.2k off of Q2 E can be replaced with 15k with good results.
all other factory values work pretty well. subbing 1 megs for the 820ks works fine as everyone has 1 megs in the their trickbox.
if you use a late model inductor ,, most are over 600 mh, try lowering the .01 sweep cap to .009/.008 or thereabouts to get the voice back in stock range.
* and shoot me a PM if you need a nice pot for boomers. takes a different pot for different wah shells, i have them all now. low forum member pricing applies.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/375799_483209235036488_1432752099_n.jpg)
@joegagan= Thanks for the offer on the pots. Maybe when I can find time between work and a baby, I can try to build one. Right now I have afew wahs on the table for mods and repairs. Maybe when I can finish those might have time to build one. I can wind my own inductor for this but I dont have the proper tools to measuer the inductor. I wind them around 490 to 500 winds. Puts me around 30 ohms with 32 gauge wire. I think that puts me at 500mh. Give or take.
here's my latest monster creation.
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/wyldewah.jpg)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/STP63363.jpg)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/STP63366.jpg)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/STP63368.jpg)
let me know what ya think, ok??
I think I just found out why you chose 'pedals by tone' as a name. :P
Nice witring btw, should have painted the footwitch orange too.
tony, that is beautiful.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/boomacho/DSCF3131.jpg)
that is one wacked out wah shell. what is it?
it is BOOMACHO!
a regular boomernang but with mondo treads made from a superdeep floormat from autozone. aged appropriately to match the case , visually.
((sold)) , much gratitude
Joe and Tony, nice builds, cheers!!
Some mods for a Mister Cry Baby wah/Volume. Much better now :)
The wha now have your own output level and 3 range flavors. Lots of internal mods to bring the wah to the surface and roar.
(http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/3794/mistercrybaby003.jpg)
(http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7443/mistercrybaby002.jpg)
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/5032/mistercrybaby001.jpg)
(http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/985/mistercrybaby004.jpg)
nice! love the blue glow comin out the bottom.
did you keep the weird pot that comes in those? i bought a mister supercrybabysuper mister used but took it back to the store for refund, sounded weird. glad you got it modded, i think they need it ::)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/400772_487336641290414_1760266407_n.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF3318crop.jpg)
^ How are you getting that effect. By taking a dremel to some rubber?
yes! good call. after cutting the gashes and dots, i fill the recesses with spray paint, finish up w' clear, then sand to remove most of the paint. above pic was shot before sanding the excess paint off the rubber.
i also flip the stock crybabe rubber and sand with recip sander and 220 to get that satiny look.
another shot after more finishing:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/198807_487961584561253_1614748571_n.jpg)
Refinished my GCB-95. The paint is called 'Plum Crazy Metallic' I believe its supposed to look an old muscle car. As you can see, its not that durable, I scratched it up a quite bit while reassembling it, but overall I'm pretty pleased. It was this or metallic orange.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4wWo5UH7uhQ/UINH18arl4I/AAAAAAAAAkI/L2wq_b6CwXo/s800/IMAG0224.jpg) :)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CznK_NLDTsc/UINHlhnSKDI/AAAAAAAAAjc/0r4RpcoIvtU/s800/IMAG0223.jpg) ;D
Quote from: joegagan on October 01, 2012, 12:23:53 AM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF3318crop.jpg)
Beautiful Joe, I love that. It sure is a Cadillac of wah's. I presume it's a Boomerang inside ?
bjorn , that is a pretty purple, love it! maybe touch up the chips with a purple sharpie, or even black, will not stand out so much. or make more chips!
brad from creepyfingers ( member solidhex) did some purple wahs, he had a body shop do the finish, might even have been powdercoated.
pyro, thanks! no guts in that hotrod caddy yet. it is (pre)sold however , to a collector in france who says he doesn't care what guts i put in it!
I see you like Vox enclosures aswell joegagan, great looking pedals!
I added a germanium treble-booster to my Vox, cause I figured that's one pedal and cable less to carry around with me.
I decided to keep the wah circuit I modified a year ago instead of building a new board, cause I'm already perfectly happy with how it sounds.
Made some stupid mistakes in the placing of the board and such, with made it a pain to mount, wire and debug, but I'll take what I learned from that with me for my next build.
I painted this one red cause I missed my old red one.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/Liquitone%20Effects/S6000138.jpg)
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/Liquitone%20Effects/S6000137.jpg)
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/Liquitone%20Effects/S6000144.jpg)
An old wah from 1999. It's a Onner, brazilian company.
The actual wah uses a trafo as inductor, and sounds really thin and poor.
Inside is a Morley Classic with a few mods and a electronic bypass ( true bypass ).
(http://images03.olx.com.br/ui/20/08/40/1334071310_350800840_4-Pedal-Wah-Wah-Para-Guitarra-Fatboy-OnerrPedal-Wah-Wah-Fatboy-ONERR-O-Fat-Boy-Onerr-f-Compra-Venda.jpg)
(http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/3465/customwahonner4.jpg)
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5167/customwahonner3.jpg)
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8877/customwahonner1.jpg)
(http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/193/customwahonner2.jpg)
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/397227_294289347349083_1475464193_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/30379_294289327349085_352859163_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/554043_294289317349086_2102802859_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/420553_294289304015754_618420676_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/400343_294286130682738_274591443_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/156659_294286100682741_623358807_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/530693_294286074016077_1522762168_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/222592_294286044016080_11990344_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/534606_294286030682748_586982411_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/579302_294286017349416_133867977_n.jpg)
beautiful! love the green. very nice work.
Nice ones guero! Your builds always look so professional and tidy.
I happen to have an Onerr aswell, I got it in trade of a JH-1 Wah I modified for someone. It's the Fat Boy II and does have an inductor. It is a design using a LM393M, a few (opamps?)marked KF353, 2 3904 transistors, a C1815 and a bunch of K30A's which are OTA's if I recall correctly.
The inductor is the same sort of torrodial shape as the reissue red fasel I have, the casing seems to be filled with epoxy-resin.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/other%20pedals/S6000150.jpg)
The guy who gave it to me said it had optical switching, but the strange thing is I can't find any parts that would be able to do that, neither does it have a footswitch. ???
the only thing attached to the threadle is a wire tthe pcb's ground.
I haven't tried it out jet so no idea if it sounds thin aswell.
Quote from: Liquitone on October 23, 2012, 03:45:25 AM
Nice ones guero! Your builds always look so professional and tidy.
I happen to have an Onerr aswell, I got it in trade of a JH-1 Wah I modified for someone. It's the Fat Boy II and does have an inductor. It is a design using a LM393M, a few (opamps?)marked KF353, 2 3904 transistors, a C1815 and a bunch of K30A's which are OTA's if I recall correctly.
The inductor is the same sort of torrodial shape as the reissue red fasel I have, the casing seems to be filled with epoxy-resin.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/other%20pedals/S6000150.jpg)
The guy who gave it to me said it had optical switching, but the strange thing is I can't find any parts that would be able to do that, neither does it have a footswitch. ???
the only thing attached to the threadle is a wire tthe pcb's ground.
I haven't tried it out jet so no idea if it sounds thin aswell.
I never saw a new Onner inside . They are not so popular here in Brazil. We have a lots of Morley , but the winner still the Dunlop Cry Baby.
Some guts of that fat Boy II will be nice :)
I think that you should keep the JH-1 :)
hehe, well what I meant was that I got the Onner (and a normal crybaby) for free from this guy who wanted his JH-1 modded.
I wouldn't dare to ask him for anything more, cause he also gave me a 1971 Fane branded London City which is a copy of the marshall plexi superlead made in Holland, For free!!, cause he really thought I should have it.
I will make photo's along with the parts-values this evening and post it on the general forum.
I just did this one about a week ago. A Colorsound Wah rebuild!!! I found a vintage shell, jacks, pot, and treadle. Someone pulled the guts out and bottom plate long ago and made it into a volume pedal.
I used the WOW Wah layout. This thing sounds lovely it is the best sounding wah I've played/made!!!
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/pics146.jpg)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/pics148.jpg)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/pics153.jpg)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/pics154-1.jpg)
The layout took some debugging/lots of thinking and cross referencing with original wahs. ::)
Wow, that looks really cool. great work. :icon_cool:
A 20 years old Cry Baby, now it's young again - improved too :)
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8911/wahverde001.jpg)
(http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/1171/wahverde003.jpg)
(http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3919/wahverde002.jpg)
(http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4334/wahverde004.jpg)
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5341/wahverde005.jpg)
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/454/wahverde006.jpg)
(http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1962/wahverde007.jpg)
(http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/1452/wahverde008.jpg)
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/558998_301431813301503_574787125_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/374529_301431849968166_1666952898_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/406955_301431876634830_1415745516_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/292823_301431903301494_1359082807_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/405063_301431916634826_1777968526_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/64593_301431939968157_1586867235_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/295845_301431979968153_841062043_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/602276_301432013301483_1592527522_n.jpg)
An old Morley Classic turn to Wah + Volume + Distortion ( not Morley Distortion )
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3908/trinity001.jpg)
(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/981/trinity003.jpg)
(http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/981/trinity003.jpg)
(http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/3236/trinity004.jpg)
An old Morley inspired by X-Wing .
(http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/4419/starwah0008.jpg)
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/8171/starwah0001.jpg)
(http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/5879/starwah0002.jpg)
(http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/37/starwah0003.jpg)
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2416/starwah0004.jpg)
(http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/4800/starwah0005.jpg)
(http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1250/starwah0007.jpg)
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/4115/starwah0006.jpg)
Oh my god, that's amazing. Fantastic build!
LoL! obi wah kenobi! Great build as all ways Güero.
Quote from: paulyy on December 12, 2012, 03:21:41 PM
LoL! obi wah kenobi! Great build as all ways Güero.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
beautiful job. love it.
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5862/charger002.jpg)
(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/1717/charger003.jpg)
(http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/9291/charger004.jpg)
(http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1046/charger001.jpg)
Beautiful. Are you using ultraviolet leds for the light plate? On paper it seems like they would be best for fluorescing the light plate, but in practice I have found that ultra bright blue leds work better.
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on January 07, 2013, 08:22:17 AM
Beautiful. Are you using ultraviolet leds for the light plate? On paper it seems like they would be best for fluorescing the light plate, but in practice I have found that ultra bright blue leds work better.
Tks! :)
Sometimes the ultra brite seems to be the best choice. I'm always making a light test..here in Brazil the acrylic quality is the worst you can imagine.
(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/8923/wahvolume001.jpg)
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1147/wahvolume003.jpg)
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/7439/wahvolume004.jpg)
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/1893/wahvolume005.jpg)
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9588/wahvolume006.jpg)
(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2573/wahvolume007.jpg)
(http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/521/wahvolume002.jpg)
wow, love the charger and this latest 'custom'. beautiful work.
a gift for tom h at black cat pedals ( shell)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/419610_542431452447599_611673630_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/550139_542434535780624_1273644540_n.jpg)
Great wah's as all way you two.
@joegagan=No guts?
pauly thanks so much.
yes no guts at all, just a lonely straight gear poking down.
tom bought a bunch of wah parts from me so i threw in a little 'extra' for him.
i am now making replacement bottom plates for boomer/foxx/dearmond, which are seeing some action on the bay.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/rusty%20mustard/DSCF4085_zps8392b7e1.jpg?t=1360292267)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/rusty%20mustard/DSCF4077_zps44cc9dd6.jpg?t=1360292187)
Hi All,
Nice "grunge-looking" finish there :) !
I have projects to present here, when I'll be able to finish and detail them correctly for you all... :icon_confused:
For the moment, I only had the time to work on a VOX V846-HW pedal (bought barely used for cheap, fortunately !) :
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/622975IMG2187.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/724504IMG2195.jpg)
The original circuit and original schem :
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/980174IMG2196.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/169208IMG2221.jpg)
The modified circuit and modified schem :
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/761752IMG2625.jpg)
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/645148myV846HWschemscanCopie.jpg)
A sample of the modified version :
http://soundcloud.com/tubelectron/r05-0001-special-pett/s-UeLn1 (http://soundcloud.com/tubelectron/r05-0001-special-pett/s-UeLn1)
This pedal is worth to be modded... Very Soul/funk, indeed...
A+!
soundclip sounds great! the mod is nicely done.
does the pot in the handwired seem robust? vox has been putting poor quality pots in their v845s and v847s lately.
Indeed, I recently had a Vox 847A on the bench and took the opportunity to measure the pot. not only did the components seem flimsy in quality, it also had a weird taper.
it went from 0 ohms to about 12k from start to about 11 o clock, then suddenly jumps from 12k to 104.4k between 11 and 13 1/2 o clock, and from that point all the way to the end from 104.4k to only 104.5k.
liqui, that is a pretty common wah taper. not so sure about the 0 - 12k part, but the rest is fairly normal.
the real problem is the durability. the pot goes scratchy before GC charges your MC.
i came up with a high quality pot replacement for the v845, i think it will also fit the v847.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/KGrHqNlUFEF4J6rB9BRI79QoOw60_57_zps182dcb89.jpg)
Quote from: joegagan on March 13, 2013, 01:20:37 PM
liqui, that is a pretty common wah taper. not so sure about the 0 - 12k part, but the rest is fairly normal.
the real problem is the durability. the pot goes scratchy before GC charges your MC.
i came up with a high quality pot replacement for the v845, i think it will also fit the v847.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/KGrHqNlUFEF4J6rB9BRI79QoOw60_57_zps182dcb89.jpg)
IMO, the new Vox wah have a poor and weak curve/timbre.
Man, I hate those SMD crap!
Quote from: tubelectron on February 26, 2013, 04:36:05 PMHi All,
Nice "grunge-looking" finish there :) !
I have projects to present here, when I'll be able to finish and detail them correctly for you all... :icon_confused:
For the moment, I only had the time to work on a VOX V846-HW pedal (bought barely used for cheap, fortunately !) :
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/622975IMG2187.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/724504IMG2195.jpg)
The original circuit and original schem :
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/980174IMG2196.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/169208IMG2221.jpg)
The modified circuit and modified schem :
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/761752IMG2625.jpg)
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/645148myV846HWschemscanCopie.jpg)
A sample of the modified version :
http://soundcloud.com/tubelectron/r05-0001-special-pett/s-UeLn1 (http://soundcloud.com/tubelectron/r05-0001-special-pett/s-UeLn1)
This pedal is worth to be modded... Very Soul/funk, indeed...
A+!
Cutting the 68k resistor to 34k increases the gain?
And doubling the 10n cap increases bass?
Just trying to see if I've got the idea of which components effect what....:)
That clip sounds great. Very smooth transition from low to high frequencies.
yes, lowering the input resistor adds gain. larger sweep cap lowers freq range.
I reckon germanium transistors have gains too low for use in a wah circuit, huh?
The early marshall supawah used ge trans. They sound great, at least the clone made by brad of creepyfingers did.
man how the hell did i miss this thread..awesome looking wahs.. :icon_eek:
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/34727.jpg)
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/34728.jpg)
focalized, that is a sweet looking build! i like the subtle details, the black white theme etc. stay classy!
That wah looks pretty good Focalized! There's a 'Fulltonish' tidy-ness in the wiring. I like the colours as well :)
Agreed. Such a clean build, especially taking into account it's on perf board. Beauty.
I did this today for a music shop owner. Just a stock GCB-95.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08402_zps73f6afe3.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08403_zps72b742da.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08404_zps2aeb5c6f.jpg)
And the video of the dip:
looks cool mike, you have that process nailed.. 8)
did you sand it, or strip it?...
i have a mint cry baby gcb95...i'd like t do something with it...is the casting clean on these or is their 'veins' when stripped?
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 13, 2013, 05:18:08 AM
looks cool mike, you have that process nailed.. 8)
did you sand it, or strip it?...
i have a mint cry baby gcb95...i'd like t do something with it...is the casting clean on these or is their 'veins' when stripped?
I didn't even strip it. I just gave it a base coat of flat white and swirled it. Then some spray polyurethane. It came out smooth.
oh ok, it loked like it had been stripped, i wa just wondering what they looked like 'bare' as i might etch it.
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 13, 2013, 05:39:01 AM
oh ok, it loked like it had been stripped, i wa just wondering what they looked like 'bare' as i might etch it.
GOOD LUCK. It was a major PITA to strip that textured finish on my turkeyday entry. It was totally smooth though.
hmmm...maybe not tthen. ;)
hmmm... :icon_idea:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93036.msg869174#msg869174
stripping a crybaby shell is 100% dependant on when it was made. since the mid 90s, dunlop's process has been extremely robust. before that, there were periods , both dunlop and thomas where the finish was very poorly bonded to the metal. other times it bonded very well.
as my pictures attest, i happen to like the ones where the finish chips off in big chunks. paint pony style.
Quote from: joegagan on May 13, 2013, 01:49:19 PM
stripping a crybaby shell is 100% dependant on when it was made. since the mid 90s, dunlop's process has been extremely robust. before that, there were periods , both dunlop and thomas where the finish was very poorly bonded to the metal. other times it bonded very well.
as my pictures attest, i happen to like the ones where the finish chips off in big chunks. paint pony style.
I wasn't fortunate enough to get an easy to strip shell. It took about an hour and a half with the ole flapper wheel.
cheers joe, this is a new out of the box one..
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7293/8742508379_931e1e45b5_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/8742508399_f63530d8fa_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/8742508459_ef3f9aab14_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7293/8742508259_305c08d0e0_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/8742508293_a144b90e62_b.jpg)
Haven't posted pic's in awhile. The first one is a Thomas Organ vox wah with TB, new pot (not the one you see in the pic) and 9V adapter. I also made a few tweaks to the board even thou it looks stock.
The other one is a GGG layout with the same mods as the vox. It also has a hand wound inductor that I wound. All in all. Just simple wahs. Nothing to fancy.
nice clean builds. i like the dpdts.
simple effective mod to new crybaby = superwide XL
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/superwide%20XL/superwidexlside_zps9049ead5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/superwide%20XL/KGrHqRmIFGHiiRg1BRl9J7DC6g60_57_zps368b3bc2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/superwide%20XL/superwidexlgutsa_zpsbf1d0cc3.jpg)
I don't care what the Thomas Organ Co. says, Joe.
YOU are Mr Crybaby.;)
Nice...Where do you get your tread material?
thanks guys. by the way, these are not true bypass from the factory. i weave one extra wire into the loom and plug into the connector, with a sneaky jumper under the board. there are also other mods underneath.
just sold two of these on ebay.
the tread is cut from a 'deep' mud floormat for cars from target. last i checked, they weren't carrying that type any more. i guess car floor mats are like fashion, if they aren't in this year's spring collection, they're OUT>
Quote from: joegagan on May 19, 2013, 06:26:20 PM
thanks guys. by the way, these are not true bypass from the factory. i weave one extra wire into the loom and plug into the connector, with a sneaky jumper under the board. there are also other mods underneath.
just sold two of these on ebay.
the tread is cut from a 'deep' mud floormat for cars from target. last i checked, they weren't carrying that type any more. i guess car floor mats are like fashion, if they aren't in this year's spring collection, they're OUT>
that's pretty Damn cool, true bypass without changing the switch?
I can't tell from the picture, is that cap soldered to one end of a resistor?
no, the switch is changed as well. although you would be amazed, i have seen some recent made dunlops with a carling dpdt still wired the old spdt way , it's crazy, cats sleeping with dogs etc.
ha, that cap is a jumper across the input R/C- shhh, don't tell anybody.
Now I have to go mod my colorsound supah wah swell! Nice work Joe!
Quote from: joegagan on May 16, 2013, 09:31:15 AM
nice clean builds. i like the dpdts.
Thanks Joe. I use Carling 316-PP DPDT switches. Less noise and longer shafts for better adjustment. I just wish they were cheaper in cost. Even at dealer cost, There around 8 bucks.
agree. i have to send out special instructions to people who are having to deal with short shafts :icon_redface:
It's not the size of your shaft Joe, it's how you use it. :D
pam grier said in an interview( 2005 ) that guys with size problems should seek enlargement. who can argue with pam?
(http://netflowers.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/pam-grier-053.jpg?w=500)
(http://weheartvintage.co/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/70s_style_icon_Pam_Grier.jpg)
True bypass, change Distortion switch location ( upper left ), sweep, wah volume potentiometer, range switch, internal mods
(http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5849/morleymarco002.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img841/1971/morleymarco003.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img191/4968/morleymarco004.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img27/497/morleymarco001.jpg)
Looks great guero! I like the glowing treadle beneath the rubber, very slick. How many LEDs is that , what type and where are they mounted? Is the light display visible in daylight? What type of pots are you using?
Quote from: joegagan on June 04, 2013, 02:26:28 AM
Looks great guero! I like the glowing treadle beneath the rubber, very slick. How many LEDs is that , what type and where are they mounted? Is the light display visible in daylight? What type of pots are you using?
Tks Joe... :)
C'mon, man! Tell us about the wah.....:D
sorry for the poor playing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JU2UczUl-wk#!
I'm using only 2 leds for the treadle, pots Alpha and the lights can be seen under daylight, just a bit :)
*faith in humanity temporarily restored*
only kidding - it ain't easy being green! (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bein'_Green) ;)
nice work.
Quote from: artifus on June 04, 2013, 05:54:55 PM
*faith in humanity temporarily restored*
only kidding - it ain't easy being green! (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bein'_Green) ;)
nice work.
True! It's very hard bein' green :(
Quoteby the end of the song, Kermit recalls positive associations with the color green, and concludes by accepting and embracing his greenness.
you should try being purple (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Purple_People_Eater)
Quote from: artifus on June 04, 2013, 06:10:45 PM
Quoteby the end of the song, Kermit recalls positive associations with the color green, and concludes by accepting and embracing his greenness.
you should try being purple (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Purple_People_Eater)
I have a purple nose friend already , and belive me , is hard too :P
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSZne_4Ko03P1ZHit1X3Glqp6WWjQ57Vp2MLVp53lgGJYeycFv7)
Nice work Güero. I need to get a morley wah to mess with. I have an old morley fuzz wah but I don't want to mess with it. One day.
very nice guero:
talking of purple...i cannot find 'purple' leds anywhere...not those poxy UV ones..they are just rubbish...tried those.. ::)
i'm after 'proper dark purple' ...?
http://www.punkrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_6&products_id=13
cheers fishface, but i'm after the solid coloured 'purple ' ones...i should have said. :)
hmmm found these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-LED-3mm-UV-Purple-Diffused-Ultra-Bright-Flat-Top-Wide-Angle-LEDs-Light-/151030881217?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232a245bc1
8)
hmmm now to find them in the UK.. ::)
repost after the crash. tribute to boomerang wah , el-boom mare O
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/el%20boomero/DSCF5466_zps8dc63666.jpg?t=1372236067)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/el%20boomero/DSCF5464_zps3cf24169.jpg)
Quote from: joegagan on June 27, 2013, 04:42:11 AM
repost after the crash. tribute to boomerang wah , el-boom mare O
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/el%20boomero/DSCF5466_zps8dc63666.jpg?t=1372236067)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/el%20boomero/DSCF5464_zps3cf24169.jpg)
is that the one I'm trying to win from effects database?
no, the pedal i donated in the discofreq anniversary giveaway is 'betty" which is a few pages back in this thread!
glitter machine
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/glitter%20machine/glittermachine_zpsdd72e549.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/glitter%20machine/glittermachine_zpsef62ed4c.jpg)
Holy moly, that thing has a smooth sweep. Whoa, wait a doggone second.... What's that trimpot next to the PEC?
input volume pot . has a treble bleed cap across the lugs for a wee bit 'o clean up when turning down. 390 ohm r to ground prevents user from accidentally getting no sound if turned all the way down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/glitter%20machine/glittermachinepot_zps196bcafd.jpg)
Genius.
I need to do that to my freshly built wah with FET boost.
How hard is it to remove the black paint from a Dunlop enclosure....worth the trouble?
the only way i would strip them is with a sandlbast/media blast setup. disassembled. on my relic'd wahs i just use a razor to carve away paint in key areas, then polish with a wheel.
the one in this latest pic started as a vox, no paint removal necessary.
Sounds like a lot of work, with tools I don't own. Damnit
adam carolla has the tools. dennis miller does not.
8)
if you disassemble the wah, you can sand the paint down with a recip dual action sander ( harbor frieght $20)and prime the factory paint for a good result. no need to take it all off unless you are trying to buff the metal.
since around the late 80s, the paint is has bonded extremely well to these. there were some sorry times in the later thomas years where the paint did not bond well ( too much crank in sepulveda?)
Quote from: joegagan on July 26, 2013, 02:06:04 AM
if you disassemble the wah, you can sand the paint down with a recip dual action sander ( harbor frieght $20)and prime the factory paint for a good result. no need to take it all off unless you are trying to buff the metal.
since around the late 80s, the paint is has bonded extremely well to these. there were some sorry times in the later thomas years where the paint did not bond well ( too much crank in sepulveda?)
late 80's...... too much coke.8)
a former bandmate of my brother who knew someone who lived in fullerton in the late 70s said that the fender factory was rife with meth.
That explains a lot....;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzJVm7S1S_c
I love this one
Nice Mr. Gagan :D
thanks guys, shipped out to seattle TODAY
Hey, Joe, does the tek bg2 mod leave the volume pedal section working?
Yes, i left the volume alone, works really well. With my ebay approved bg pot, it gives a slight boost vs bypassed via external tbp box.
I try to talk my customers into leaving the vol function because it leaves them more original. Might sound ludicrous in a modded pedal but all of the mods are reversible, non- invasive.
Also,as mentioned i like the volume pedal in them. You don't get full silent on heel down tho. Close to silent but not quite.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/superwide%20JH1%20JH-1/DSCF5961_zpsed75d97c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF6014_zps56a6ef89.jpg)
Looks nice
very posh.. :icon_cool:
Modded this one because i can't find the dual pot 50k/500k,now i need to find 50k long shaft for this.Anybody here can give me link? i need 16mm size 50k long shaft.
(http://s8.postimg.org/99vyaavmt/2013_08_23_20_19_03.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
image hosting youtube (http://postimage.org/)
I preserved the fuzz and the switching but i noticed a delay when i turn it on.split second silence before the wah engage.
can you post pictures of the inside? and the original pot? i can make up something custom if needed.
Fixed it already using ordinary 50k pot,still waiting my long shaft order.This is the pcb picture.
(http://s22.postimg.org/mvr3tbrf5/2013_08_28_09_07_21.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
how do you print screen (http://postimage.org/app.php)
Used the single pot version into the wah portion of this wf10 and working fine now but will change the pot as my order arrives.
whew, where to start..ok, true by-pass switching, vocal mod, mid mod, dual inductor mod with a switch to choose between the two. whipple inductor with a bare stock stack 'o dimes inductor. Icar taper pot. hand etched board, gain mod..9/18 volt mod with a switch to choose between the two. dual led's (for you left or right foot wah users...the list goes on and on and on.
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/STP63590_zps27e3a7aa.jpg) (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/media/STP63590_zps27e3a7aa.jpg.html)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/whitewah_zpsc24f2abf.jpg) (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/MALICIOUS_DAMAGE/media/whitewah_zpsc24f2abf.jpg.html)
very clean. nice, i like it!
Circuit developed with Fabio Zaganin , a great brazilian bass palyer.
Electronic circuit controller bypass (foot in the ramp = ON) adjusted shutdown time + true bypass.
Adjustable input signal for active pickups, Bass Enhancer, Volume, Slime (funk a like), Mid Shape, 6 position Range (treble and bass) and Bite.
Independent output for tuner.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1185309_430858657025484_2065973302_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1185077_430858557025494_1544905923_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1238202_430857373692279_1370142958_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1185663_430858540358829_1115047644_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1239582_430858567025493_1752905610_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1234489_430858597025490_1177446284_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1230016_430858630358820_398271288_n.jpg)
Wow. Just wow. These last couple of wah's are awesome. Great job, guys.
wow, that i s very beautiful, guero. love the bold color scheme, and the execution is gorgeous.
Quote from: joegagan on September 12, 2013, 01:29:15 AM
wow, that i s very beautiful, guero. love the bold color scheme, and the execution is gorgeous.
long time :D
Thanks Joe !
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1185743_431311320313551_1216252304_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1233521_431310680313615_2062245365_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1185708_431311190313564_845797743_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/9746_431311213646895_1749869947_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1186315_431311200313563_1706824898_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1185900_431311230313560_1991567944_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1238141_431311260313557_926332265_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1237733_431311293646887_1431441287_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1235396_431311303646886_76509982_n.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img849/3903/wktm.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img89/3629/62at.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img802/884/g6ce.jpg)
Whipple Wah in an old Frontline Volume pedal. Sort of thrown together at the moment to see if I like it or needed to mod it, so I'll probably do a proper job at a later date. Standard 100k pot 'cos of the non-Crybaby setup. I really like the 'vocal' mod as it allows me to tone it down a bit when I'm not using a distortion after it
The throw on this thing is massive !! I used it as a volume pedal for years so I was used to the feel of it, but as a Wah it's so much different to a Crybaby type set up.
Sounds lurrrrvley.
Hi Guys!Here is mine, point to point method Icar superswell Pot and Philips tropical fish capacitors
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/602174_448553718554145_1352965747_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/77157_448550315221152_565084934_n.jpg)
^ love the colour scheme...nice old vintage look to it. 8)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a544/jake-jenkins/null_zpscc501d8f.jpg) I am posting this photo to this thread in hope someone that has posted on here will see it and be able to help I am looking to find 2 .22 caps like the smaller .01 caps on here. I wan to get rid of the big grey box caps and make it period correct if anyone knows where I can get them please let me know! Thanks
I have looked at a lot of the earlier Italian wah boards ( to try and put a date on a late '60 early '70 Jen CryBaby I had in the workshop, and it looks like they used anything they had at hand in these,
so I think these are in fact period correct. But I can see why you would want to put .22's similar to the .01's in here.
I guess if I can't get the caps I will put a 9v adapter board on build it true bypass ic buffer out w off switch range control and probably change out the elecs but I will save them so I can undo almost all if I choose to sell it down the road.
the thomas caps are most likely polyester film and foil. some of the wah guys i respect tell me they really do make a difference in the tone. i haven't done any real testing myself so i can't say. but they sure look cool.
There is a company that puts out "aged" poly caps, they're somewhat similar in shape, axial, and yellow.
@disabled_shredder
Here's a link that might help. I didn't see any .22 caps like this but they maybe able to help you if you ask.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ITW-Paktron-015uf-100V-Poly-Film-and-Foil-Capacitors-10-NOS-Guitar-Tone-/370909382441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565bec0729
I do have some .22 caps but they are just a little to big to fit but the look identical to the one's in the Thomas organ wah's.
Hey thanks paulyy I definitely think that was a great point in the direction. I do need .22 but I'm also thinking is to tropical fish. For both .01 or .22 as well as film in foil. Problem is I couldn't search eBay if I depended on it. If you could find either specified above do let me know please.
It used to be Morley Pro Series II Wah\Volume and now it is Jfet wah:
(http://s23.postimg.org/8a9qftg0r/M_s_Jcvq_Asto.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s13.postimg.org/5l50tqxd3/pr_Leq9_Ma98_Y.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
White PCB fragment is Morley remains - a section which contains LDR and LEDs to drive the circuit. It is a basic wah circuit, may be modded with Q-control knob.
That sure has a LOT of transistors on it...
Zapp where did you come up w that idea! Wonder if it sounds as crazy as it looks (in a good way) also since you still have the Ldr in there you auta throw in a 555 circuit w a pot and hook it up to the ldr w a switch and creat a rotary effect. Had a bud do it once. Clean build btw!
Take it guys, sounds really nice indeed:
http://www.cvsch.narod.ru/jfetwah/rus_fet_wah.gif
http://www.gtlab.net/gtlab2/readarticle.php?article_id=40
The article is in russian, but if you are eager to build the thing, I can answer your questions. This is what I can say right now: transistors T2-T5, T7 are KP303A (j 201), T1 is KP303E (you may try j308-310, bf244), T6, T8 are KP103I (it's p-channel jfet, you can try j175 or you may try to find another p-channel jfet which is complementary pair for j201). Those shining metal things are russian military stock transistors :icon_biggrin:
The coil is 0,2H (300 rounds of 0.15 mm wire, the core is ferrite toroidal and has permeability around 2000-2500), but it can be calculated more precisely with RLC calculator (try to Google it).
In my scheme C6 cap has 22 nf value, not 33 nf as in the original.
disabled_shredder are you talking about this:
http://www.getlofi.com/?page_id=1720
P.S.: Important note - it is possible to build Jfet wah using only j201, but you'll have to remove T5-T6 section and modify T7-T8 section with a source resistor for T8, values of L1=0,6H C6=0,01uF, R2=68K R3=1,5K. In that case application of factory-made coil is possible (0.5-0.6 H from Cry Baby).
Ok wow for the wah! And yup like that you might want to tinker a bit to make it to taste bu if done right you can pull a rotary style sound. Pretty nifty for so few parts and the morley's just lend a perfect platform.
That is amazing, zapp.
Well done Zapp :D
I love Mother Russia. My son's name is Dimitri ( here in Brazil we need to use all the "I" letters )
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1385473_456309991147017_1058893942_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1392046_456310291146987_526323608_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/599398_456310511146965_2067297948_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1392034_456310514480298_1292469521_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1463564_456310547813628_1714509647_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/67069_456310557813627_1152125395_n.jpg)
The cheap original wah
(http://www.musicalleinstrumentos.com.br/data/item-image/23490_pedal-shelter-wha-wha_000016480_000016476fk_large.jpg)
Güero, thanks for your kind words! Greetings for Dimitri! Here's special prize for you:
(http://s13.postimg.org/aafm4o48n/tube_wah.gif) (http://postimage.org/)
What is the name of Zeus' lightning bolt is that?? :icon_eek:
A tube-based Wah?
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on November 07, 2013, 07:22:18 AM
What is the name of Zeus' lightning bolt is that?? :icon_eek:
A tube-based Wah?
Yep! You are right. This is tube-based wah, bridge T filter instead of inductor coil. Tube is 6n2p (12AX7). One important note: the device has low input impedance, so it requires 47-100K resistor on the input in series with C1, or you may just plug a stompbox with high output impedance before it.
Killer again Zapp :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
I need to try this
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1517920_489680324476650_1751726974_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1544402_489680691143280_109528000_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1530470_489680707809945_650124227_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/62323_489680724476610_1705405701_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1/1478926_489680741143275_1405126528_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1545774_489680774476605_752174542_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1546071_489680784476604_816641647_n.jpg)
Cool pedal Guero...
Care to explain what it is/does?
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on January 22, 2014, 10:51:55 AM
Cool pedal Guero...
Care to explain what it is/does?
It does wah! :D :D :D
simple circuit nothing special just good capacitors , retrofit ( small board )
Cool. Thought there might be something special happening in there...
Is that a shield over the inductor OR is that the inductor itself?
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on January 22, 2014, 11:41:49 AM
Cool. Thought there might be something special happening in there...
Is that a shield over the inductor OR is that the inductor itself?
No :( just a good components
Yes, it's a metal shield
Quote from: Zapp Brannigan on October 23, 2013, 02:33:39 AM
Take it guys, sounds really nice indeed:
http://www.cvsch.narod.ru/jfetwah/rus_fet_wah.gif
http://www.gtlab.net/gtlab2/readarticle.php?article_id=40
The article is in russian, but if you are eager to build the thing, I can answer your questions. This is what I can say right now: transistors T2-T5, T7 are KP303A (j 201), T1 is KP303E (you may try j308-310, bf244), T6, T8 are KP103I (it's p-channel jfet, you can try j175 or you may try to find another p-channel jfet which is complementary pair for j201). Those shining metal things are russian military stock transistors :icon_biggrin:
The coil is 0,2H (300 rounds of 0.15 mm wire, the core is ferrite toroidal and has permeability around 2000-2500), but it can be calculated more precisely with RLC calculator (try to Google it).
In my scheme C6 cap has 22 nf value, not 33 nf as in the original.
disabled_shredder are you talking about this:
http://www.getlofi.com/?page_id=1720
P.S.: Important note - it is possible to build Jfet wah using only j201, but you'll have to remove T5-T6 section and modify T7-T8 section with a source resistor for T8, values of L1=0,6H C6=0,01uF, R2=68K R3=1,5K. In that case application of factory-made coil is possible (0.5-0.6 H from Cry Baby).
really interesting circuit. Do you by any chance an english version of the article ?
(by the way , the gtlab gives me a malware alert , maybe a false positive though)
Tried out the Turretboard.com layout. Easy build. Bought a few not working Crybabies to build in.
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/35999.jpg)
^^ nice , neat build. extra points for using the axle tensioner bolts double duty-ing as standoffs for the pcb.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/01/yjequ7yn.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/01/py7yduma.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/01/e3uqune3.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/01/3atyrere.jpg)
Madbeanpedals Weiner wah II and a moWah from gocb
Quote from: joegagan on February 28, 2014, 04:49:57 PM
^^ nice , neat build. extra points for using the axle tensioner bolts double duty-ing as standoffs for the pcb.
Yeah there's a bit of thinking when doing a wah board from scratch. The perf board wah I made a few pages back is just kind of floating. None of the screw holes lined up to a place for a hole on the board. Planning ahead more, I have three more empty wah shells.
easyface /wah with multi switch options using the beavis order switcher schematic ( thanks dano)
can do fuzz into wah;/ wah into fuzz;/wah by itself; or fuzz by itself.
required 4 switches since you still want the standard wah switch to be the universal BP.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/fuzz%20wah/DSCF7413_zps4bd7c7ee.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/fuzz%20wah/DSCF7416_zps1dcf5698.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/fuzz%20wah/DSCF7410_zps1c7b51c6.jpg)
Not related to my wah fix post.
Same as the last one I posted really just different stripboard, parts and pot. It's one of the Joe Gagan specials from SmallBear. I also have some more of those pots to use.
Thanks Joe for the great pots. I got some of the ones with the black etched plastic on the pot.
This one sounds really good. The inductor is also from SmallBear.
Soundclip! Fender Telesonic through a Tech 21 Trademark 60. Field recorder. Sorry you hear the pedal noise.
https://soundcloud.com/focalized/mc-wah (https://soundcloud.com/focalized/mc-wah)
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/36346.jpg)
looks very cool , love the green board and tropical fish caps. nice clean build. thanks for the trying and liking the wah pot. appreciate the mention for sure!
believe it or not, i have never done a comparison of cap types in wahs. customers ask me all the time what my opinion is of foil/oil, trop fishies etc, i have to answer "cannot answer' because i have no personal test to rely on. do trop fish sound different or better?
From what most people say I agree caps don't matter much. Depends on what they're doing as in when one is more directly affecting tone frequencies. Some just look cooler. I like old and oversized parts. It's like a digital vs. analog kind of thing. I have lots of old caps and like to mix them up. Use the bigger ones where they will fit. Lots of those old caps will fall apart. I won't buy them anymore unless it's a lot of untested stuff. I know some will be bad. I've gotten some individually that have fallen apart easily.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/life%20series/DSCF7899_zps9b5e24bd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/life%20series/DSCF7879_zps1f46a313.jpg)
Jeeez that looks like flesh almost. How you doing that?
Quote from: Focalized on June 02, 2014, 03:27:17 AM
Jeeez that looks like flesh almost. How you doing that?
i disassembled my crybaby in 1989. i put the top part in the rio grande, tied with very good wire. 2o14, pulled it out and VoiLA!
grinding, grinding, marked with a stencil, cut ribs with metal blade on grinder, cut more detail into the ribs lines with round tip dremel, sanded the field areas to a consistent 600 grit sanding in one direction only, then shot with various tinted clears + solid red from various directions before top coating with 4 coats of old school lacquer. did ten wahs at one time , this is the first one to get completed, sort of a test of concept before proceeding with the other 9. this one going to a very loyal customer in copenhagen.
This is the wah i was working on and had some trouble I was asking about. It unfortunately has a tighter physical sweep than some other enclosures but sounds good.
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/36416.jpg)
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/36418.jpg)
nice build man... 8)
love the green colour.. 8) 8) 8)
Man that's a great looking wah Focalized. Classic, simple, great finishing.
Where you as surprised as me that white rubber mat has a nice ivory color instead of the bleached paper white it appeared to be on the picture at the Mammoth's shop?
A customer asked for the white rubber for his custom vibe and I didn't have trust in that it would look good, but it does.
p.s. should I post Vibe's in Wah enclosures in the Pictures or the Wah thread?
the hammer tone looks great , and a cool color combo - bonus brownie ( greenie) points for green perf and wire. awesome build!
Thanks guys. I'm a bit Wah crazy right now. It's nice finding so many people selling broken wahs on Ebay. Such an easy fix usually and pretty simple putting on together from scratch. Wah is the best of the guitar effects I think.
Here's my wah. Spray painting is a delicate art that I haven't mastered yet... However, I'm posting here to show it off because I'm happy with it but also because I want to thank Joe Gagan who helped me with parts. Kind of to show that they've been put to good use. Also, a huge thank you to Mike (haveyouseenhim) for tracing the fulltone clyde deluxe wah!
Here are pics (I changed from the green TMNT knobs to the aluminium ones after snapping the first picture):
(http://i.imgur.com/UFyjooX.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/eJaX5Zd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jkzHeNA.jpg)
nice,
did you sand off the original black surface first?..looks like hard stuff to remove.
thinking about modding my standard gcb95..
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 17, 2014, 07:25:37 AM
nice,
did you sand off the original black surface first?..looks like hard stuff to remove.
thinking about modding my standard gcb95..
No, I've read somewhere that it's hard as balls to get off and I figured that it would work as a primer anyway.
Just two (thick, kind of uneven) coats of spray paint.
Cheers keeb, yeah thought it'd be a pita to get off..
Another in a Vox pedal. Kept the pot. Good sound. The pedal itself has about a centimeter more sweep to it than my Crybaby pedals. Is that a normal difference? The after market enclosures have that wider sweep, too.
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/36458.jpg)
Thanks Joe, been building pedals for about a year now and this Clyde McCoy Wah in an old Colorsound enclosure was my first attempt. As of this weekend I'm finally happy with the sound! Your pot and inductor are just great. Sorry for the bad quality...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFZx56c0PLc
focalized, i never noticed the dunlop made vox having wider throw, will have to check it out.
the silver pot in your newest build is a hotpotz2 inside the groovy silver sleeve. it does not need a wide throw as the r range is covered in less than 70-80% of the standard 90s type crybaby throw. i have been selling hotpotz2s with a larger 16t gear to slow this ramp down a little, it is cool.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/hotoptz2smooth_zps58b265f4.jpg)
that said, your latest build looks AWESOME. love the dark perf, very cool looking caps , super neat wiring, etc - a really nice build.\
tommy, that wah sounds great - glad jiah could hook you up. love the colorsound enclosures.
work in progress from last year. modded musonic, with rack gear moved to topside. need to get back to this one.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/DSCF7819_zpse8fd1d98.jpg)
that inductor looks like a loaf of bread. what is it exactly?
Ha thanks, that was a proto inductor for company ( rhymes w mealy), i potted it in a mold, then ground the logo off the top. It has an old toroid in it from a phone network imepedence matching part.
Imagine my surprise when I got a new-in-box Dunlop Cry Baby Classic with Fasel inductor at a garage sale last Saturday for $10 because it didn't work. I expected to see the standard two-transistor circuit inside. Next surprise: the internals looked like this:
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/amptramp1/TinyCAD/023_zps28e8c324.jpg)
I should have seen the included spec card that said 1 megohm input impedance. Apparently Dunlop has addressed one of the problems with the original. Here is another shot of it:
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/amptramp1/TinyCAD/022_zpsf79198db.jpg)
The DPDT switch was not switching and was in permanent bypass more, so I got another one and soldered wires to it and wired it to the switch PCB. Here is a picture of the unit, the new switch and heh, heh, heh - the next project, called "Here Come the Fuzz" just above the switch. So why does a fuzz need eight controls? Because it is the last fuzz anyone would ever need and will be the subject of another thread once it is done.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/amptramp1/TinyCAD/024_zpsd8e72b37.jpg)
BTW I intend to sell it back to the guy I bought it from for a profit. How much do you think I should charge (in addition to the $10 I already spent on it)? It listed for $120, he bought it for $60, so there is some headroom there. Of course, I have the option of keeping it...
how did the wah sound to you? i have not liked those when i play them. i sell a quality replacement pot on ebay with the little harness attached.
my latest:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/jewel%20series/DSCF8385_zps95a6dd73.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/jewel%20series/DSCF8362_zpsa83c983c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/jewel%20series/voxjewel_zpsdfab646f.png)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/wah/jewel%20series/DSCF8388_zpse382f2e4.jpg)
Oh my, that looks amazing Joe!
you need to find a hobby, joe, too much time on your hands ........
ha,, thanks guys. my job is making wah parts. my hobby is making jewelry disguised as wah pedals.
so, the purple vox: necklace, broach or ring?
necklace for a very heavy black lady named tanisha.
Here is my entry into wah builds. I like sto keep things simple so I only have 3 external pots and 3 switches :icon_mrgreen: this is derived from a boomerang schematic. I started by making the wah pot remote via vactrol and once I had done that I just had to put an lfo in there as well :icon_cool:
It has control for Q, sweep range, and wah/volume which brings me to the lfo. The lfo has controls for wave shape and depth, the wah pot is on a switch and in lfo mode it controls the speed of the lfo.
The effects this pedal can do are Wah, LFO controlled Wah (would that be considered auto-wah or is there another name for it since auto-wah seems to typically be referring to an envelope filter?), Volume, and Tremolo! The guts are kind of a mess but not as bad as I thought they would be :icon_mrgreen:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/Mandoluke/9C89F95A-E735-49A4-89D8-BE2318FE2A1A_zpscaevx477.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/Mandoluke/media/9C89F95A-E735-49A4-89D8-BE2318FE2A1A_zpscaevx477.jpg.html)(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/Mandoluke/D121653B-9422-435C-8C52-DF404F8C9AFB_zpslzna2nwp.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/Mandoluke/media/D121653B-9422-435C-8C52-DF404F8C9AFB_zpslzna2nwp.jpg.html)
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/31e8766405d89ba9ff64fd48663da968/tumblr_n9md5dkMAT1qlg5mro1_500.jpg)
Just a little something I cooked up!
luke ,that is a nice combo - seems like you are saying it all works, tell us more! yes, auto-wah is thought of as env filter unfortunately. auto-cycling wah?
wilde, that looks sweet! did you do the paint?
Joe - Yeah I did it all, just wanted to see what I could do to a wah in between my builds and on a budget. I think it turned out pretty fantastic. Sounds a million bucks too!
I sold the wah pedal that I bought last month back to its original owner for cost plus a nice profit. Now he has a wah that he can use and I have money I can use. Win-win for everyone. See my post on July 17 for pictures.
Joe- everything works and sounds pretty good. This project was built in a GCB-80 high gain volume pedal shell (High Gain really... I would have expected something called high gain to be a boost but it is just a 500k pot) You can get a nice range of sounds with the lfo between changing the Q, depth, and to a lesser extent wave shape. I used the lfo from grind customs http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=391 (http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=391)
It works pretty well though I substituted a 500k pot for the wave shape switch and it doesn't make a whole lot of noticeable difference other than at the extreme ends. The tremolo sounds pretty good, it can be a bit dark but not in a bad way, just a different flavor of tremolo. It is interesting having the foot pedal also control the lfo rate. You can create some nice speed swell effects. I used a tayda ldr with a 33k parallel resistor to get a more desirable sweep. I used 2 bright white leds to better facilitate switching/use of the foot control as lfo rate pot. The biggest issue I had with this build was the emitter resistor on Q1, with the stock value of 120 ohm (if I remember correctly) I was getting a lot of distortion most of the way through the sweep. I swapped in several different transistors to varying effect but all with undesirable distortion. I have that resistor socketed now and am using a 220 ohm with pretty good effect. As of right now I have settled on S9013 transistors for q1 and q2 as they seemed to sound decent and have the least distortion. I didn't have much available as far as lower gain transistors. I'm very happy with the final result especially being my first major wah build.
cool - nice report!
depending on which boomerang schematic you used , i might suggest a couple of corrections. the R off Bq1 to inductor should be 1k , not 4.7k. the factory schem for BG1 showed 4.7k but in at least 3 '67 vintage units, 1k was observed , never the 4.7k. 4.7k sounds pretty bad to me. ( 1k was the official R in the subsequent BG2 by the way)
the R between Q2 C and B should be 820k, not 620k as some of the online schems show.
couple boomer changes that i like:
you can get very fine control of distort/gain/ mids/ lows etc by balancing using 2 trims: change the input R to a 100k trim; put a 500 ohm trim at Q1 e to gd. by balancing back and forth between these, you can dial in for individual tones, guitars etc etc. the two go together like candy and childrens
the 1.5m at Q1 c to ind. is super high, not sure why they did this. the similar dearmond 1800 uses a 270K in this location. i settle on 470k for my faux boomer since that sounds great - nice wide Q + the dunlop donor gcb95 boards have that value already installed in that spot.
faux boomer soundsample:
Thanks for the info and suggestions Joe! I'm pretty sure the schematic I used had the correct values that you mentioned.
Quote from: davent on August 04, 2014, 06:16:00 PM
Fixed- removed the 's' from the addresses 'https'.
thanks very much i keep forgetting to drop the 's'. now fixed on original post, in before the ' modify' button expired~!
(http://i.imgur.com/0CMM4xv.jpg)
ON led and cold bypass added
Another one point to point wah ,including a selectable output buffer with volume knob if you use it with fuzz effect after wah wah
So here they are some photos...
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/p180x540/25938_503410843068432_896307588_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/l/t1.0-9/s720x720/1001401_503410856401764_1840491044_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/p180x540/1012512_503411123068404_1413573893_n.jpg)
That's totally cool. Tell about the paint?
I now have 9 wahs. Just got three new wahs to work on. I don't know if it's worth more to me selling or being able to gaze upon them Kind of like a horder
I'm troubled with the paint. The green one I posted a bit back chips way too easy. Want to strip it down and use a good primer first. Such a pain with all the angles. Plus I can't find more of the green hammertone paint I used.
Hi!
The paint method I use based on varnish (for paintings) and Glitter, so easy.
Basically you spray or you suffuse the chassis varnish with a brush and then you spread the Glitter(any colour you like) all over the surface.
Then for the finish you can spray varnish again, so as not to unstuck the Glitter.
I hope to help you
Nice. Can you still feel the glitter or is there a super thick clearcoat? It looks smooth.
Yes , you can feel the glitter it's look like clearcoat,in fact it doesn't stick to your fingers :icon_cool:
Another Perfboard Wah. In a very clean crybaby pedal. Not my the favorite sounding one of my builds but close enough and they're all consistently close in sound.
Halo from smallbear and the excellent Gagan smooth pot. I have one more to use soon.
Basic Q control and 6 cap range. 6 because that's the switch I had. 4 is really all you need at most. Was a bit tricky fitting the perf solder path after I shaped the board with the screws. A few wires hard to stretch over things underneath but it all seems pretty tight and reliable I hope.
I was trying to sand off the raised cry baby logo but it was going to take a bit and probably cut through the raised letters. So it is what it is. I like it.
(http://i.imgur.com/WhwlCr7.jpg)
very pretty build.
i esp like the perf, it looks elegant.
did you use the 1 meg reisistors on the switchable sweep caps to prevent popping? last wilson wah i took in as a trade in had a sweep selector that popped like orville redenbacher when switched.
the ancient but reliable GMarts wah page has a usable schem for how to place the 1 megs.
ps, i also agree, the front logo plate looks cool like that.
Quote from: MisterBlue on August 14, 2014, 07:13:12 AM
Another one point to point wah ,including a selectable output buffer with volume knob if you use it with fuzz effect after wah wah
So here they are some photos...
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/p180x540/25938_503410843068432_896307588_n.jpg)
mister blue, this is a great looking pedal too! i like the glitter. nice wiring job, too.
Quote from: joegagan on September 05, 2014, 10:05:39 AM
very pretty build.
i esp like the perf, it looks elegant.
did you use the 1 meg reisistors on the switchable sweep caps to prevent popping? last wilson wah i took in as a trade in had a sweep selector that popped like orville redenbacher when switched.
the ancient but reliable GMarts wah page has a usable schem for how to place the 1 megs.
It doesn't really pop much. I'm restrained to household levels though, the resistor drain sounds like a fine use.
mister blue, this is a great looking pedal too! i like the glitter. nice wiring job, too.
[/quote]
Thank you dude.Yes it is, It also looks like a little bit psychedelic when the light being fall in its surface
No Mojo in this one. Just a simple Vox.
(http://i.imgur.com/IkS3Q2R.jpg)
hi guys..
got a question for ya..
how do you remove a treadle from a crybaby?...how does the 'pin' come out?...
i want to strip it and repaint etc...cheers .
edit: done.. centre punched it out. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 03, 2014, 11:14:23 AM
hi guys..
got a question for ya..
how do you remove a treadle from a crybaby?...how does the 'pin' come out?...
i want to strip it and repaint etc...cheers .
edit: done.. centre punched it out. 8)
Good luck getting it back in without chipping the paint.
Also like with one I had, the green one I posted, the pin lost its grip and I had to put it back in from the other side.
i decided to go with sanding the treadle down to metal, and painting the base..so chipping is ok..
looks pretty cool so far, and made a 4 led light plate for it too..which was a headache to do..
but should be really cool...
also added a dpdt so i can have led on/off...(not true bypass, i like the buffer.. 8)
i alsi ripped off the crybaby tacky logo, and am sticking a dog tag there...
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 04, 2014, 08:59:32 AM
i decided to go with sanding the treadle down to metal, and painting the base..so chipping is ok..
looks pretty cool so far, and made a 4 led light plate for it too..which was a headache to do..
but should be really cool...
also added a dpdt so i can have led on/off...(not true bypass, i like the buffer.. 8)
i alsi ripped off the crybaby tacky logo, and am sticking a dog tag there...
Normally I would say "pics or it didn't happen," but you've pretty well proved things happen 8)
Would definitely like to see pics though ;D
just put the last coats of colour on...
should be done by monday....all will be revealed.. ;D ;)
I want to take the that textured paint off of two wah shells...
Whats the best way? Acetone?
depends on when it was made. later thomas and early dunlop were easy to chip, by late 80s dunlop really got their process down, they are extremely hard to strip. i try to never do it. acetone will barely touch it, much more caustic strippers might do it, but i haven't bothered.
if i absolutely HAD to remove the finish, i would dissasemble and use a variety of sanders and grinders to do it.
I used 180 grit paper with a block and a lot of elbow action...
Hard graft, but I used to spray cars so am pretty used to it... ::)
One wah shell has the old Dunlop pcb and the paint is chipping easily. I also have a rotovibe shell and the red paint is just awful.
After I get the paint off, theres a local chrome shop. :icon_mrgreen:
I saw "a thing" on the teev the other, a bloke was stripping paint off a plastic grille, for his motor. he soaked it in brake fluid, as a cheap and safe (for the plastic) method, needing little elbow or grease.
frankly, I was astonished he would do such a thing, but he was 'murcan, and it was a muscle car. it might work on crybaby.
not sure what the recent overuse of this 'murican' reference is. we get called on the carpet when we as americans use disparaging terms to describe or make fun of people of other countries. guess it isn't a two way street.
'Murca as it is called, :icon_mrgreen: , is really a reference to the Tea Party style of politics and the "image" of the overweight American in a white wifebeater, tan shorts and sandals with black socks. You can replace the wifebeater with a white t-shirt with the American flag or Dixie flag or..I think you get the idea.
More or less. I use the word 'Murca here and there when making a political point to something.
I'll strip the wah shells this week. I picked up a roll of that non slip grip strip stuff.....what did I just type??? :icon_redface: Should make a nice top to the treadle ...along with the lexan I got.
Quote from: chicago_mike on October 05, 2014, 08:48:51 PM
'Murca as it is called, :icon_mrgreen: , is really a reference to the Tea Party style of politics and the "image" of the overweight American in a white wifebeater, tan shorts and sandals with black socks. You can replace the wifebeater with a white t-shirt with the American flag or Dixie flag or..I think you get the idea.
More or less. I use the word 'Murca here and there when making a political point to something.
Agreed. 'Murca or 'Murcans doesn't refer to the population as a whole, but to a certain type of Americans.
just love a double standard. now that we've gone all PC, the only people allowed to be made fun of with disparaging names are white males of a conservative bent. it's crap. i won't close this thread , but i am out of it. have fun.
well, if you're out, you won't see this, but ....
offended Americans, please accept my apologies, no offence was intended. I had no idea the "term" was culturally sensitve. I thought it was a more generalised term, derived from its usage by a former president.
and except for "brit", I don't really care how anyone refers to me.
That escalated quickly :icon_eek:
So I've got an 80's and a 90's style crybaby sitting around begging to be turned into something awesome! What are some suggestions for a nice project that's fairly simple? I'm thinking maybe a fuzz/wah or maybe adding an envelope mode option. All suggestions are welcome!
Lets get back on topic. :icon_cool:
Okay so I got the treadle off the 2 shells. Painting ideas..Need help.
OPTIONS:
1. Aluminum etching Primer ( white ) And a couple coats of classic Fender / Dupont colors. Like SOnic blue and whatever..
OR..
2. Got get a powder coat gun.....
Quote from: chicago_mike on October 06, 2014, 07:22:33 PM
Lets get back on topic. :icon_cool:
Okay so I got the treadle off the 2 shells. Painting ideas..Need help.
OPTIONS:
1. Aluminum etching Primer ( white ) And a couple coats of classic Fender / Dupont colors. Like SOnic blue and whatever..
OR..
2. Got get a powder coat gun.....
I would say if you have the budget for a powder gun go for the powder gun. I don't have personal experience with it as I'm poor :P But it seems like it's a lot easier to get a professional-looking finish with a powder coat than most paint. Unless, of course, you have access to professional painting equipment, in which case it's entirely up to what color you're looking for and have access to 8)
finished it....got rid of that nasty black crap, front label is a strip of self adhesive aloooooominum with toner image ironed on.....
painted metallic forest green.. 8) (to match my vol pedal)
4 led light plate...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_005.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_006.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_007.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_008.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_009.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_010.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141007_011.jpg)
Well it looks like Rob wins the internet again today. I guess I'll just put down the 15th rebote I was working on and go for a walk... :icon_rolleyes:
That crybaby is a thing of Beauty Rob!!!
cheers guys.. 8)
@nathan, your lucky it isn't etched all round...i was tempted ;D ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 08, 2014, 03:07:02 PM
cheers guys.. 8)
@nathan, your lucky it isn't etched all round...i was tempted ;D ;)
Can't hear you, still on my walk... :icon_mrgreen:
;D
ended up making a lightplate for my vol too... 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141019_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141019_007.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141019_001.jpg)
So I just finished modding my Crybaby too, but I'm not posting after that. I'll give it a couple weeks to settle down :P
:D
did you make a lightplate too?...
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 19, 2014, 08:01:54 PM
:D
did you make a lightplate too?...
Well I'm going to have to now, aren't I...? :icon_rolleyes: I mean I'm used to your stuff looking lightyears better than mine, but I'd rather not have to compare them side-by-side like this.
;).. i'm sure it'll be the nuts man.. 8)
To reactivate this asleep topic...
Here is my RED RAT wah project :
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/129932IMG1103.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/747418IMG1105.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/745001IMG1109.jpg)
The basis is an emply FoXX Fuzz-Wa tread pedal bought for nothing at a flea market. Inside there will be :
- a Wah with 5-position voicing and resonance control.
- a RAT Distortion (1981 rev.B) clone with its distortion/filter/volume controls.
- a switch for choosing the order of the effects.
- 2 FSW for engaging the 2 effects both or separately.
The Wah circuit is now designed and works as expected, the RAT is a no-issue circuit, I have the PCBs... And why not a lighted bottom ?
Wait and See...
A+!
I had almost forgotten about this thread until it popped up again. Very excited to see how that one turns out, looking great so far 8)
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 16, 2015, 05:29:21 PM
I had almost forgotten about this thread until it popped up again. Very excited to see how that one turns out, looking great so far 8)
Thank you vigilante397 !
I am late, very late on this project... :-[
Wait and See...
A+!
Back to the end of the project. I know, I'm slow... :icon_confused:
The name has been changed at the suggestion of a non-musician friend : "It looks like a kind of scarabeo"... Fine ! So let's go for "SCARABEO" instead :icon_wink:.
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/791101IMG1617.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/819002IMG1616.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/298338IMG1618.jpg)
(http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/833088IMG1620.jpg)
BLUE = 6-position wah voicing.
ORANGE = wah resonance (sharpness).
RED = distortion.
YELLOW = filter.
GREEN = volume.
SWITCH = wah <---> RAT distortion order shifting.
A+!
My eyes hurt a little from looking at it 8) but great build, well worth the wait.
Thanks !
Yes, the look is special :o but I didn't wanted to spend money on engraved plates for a "more serious" look, so the coloured knobs was the solution. It also had an advantage : these colours and shape of the knobs are easy to see when on stage...
A+!
Started out as the standard classic Wah...
Sorry I didn't do a clean channel demo...the vid was getting long enough as it was...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsPh2W4a780
I have found he time to make a quick sample from my SCARABEO wah (Fender 3-PU Tele, Orient-Express amplifier, clean sound) :
https://soundcloud.com/tubelectron/r05-0001-scarabeo-tele-rhmp3 (https://soundcloud.com/tubelectron/r05-0001-scarabeo-tele-rhmp3)
A+!
It's been a while, where's the wah-wah love guys!?
Vox "Greyish Wah". A budget build, stock inductor and potentiometer, and a variable "Q" control, but everything else is to the Grey wah specs. Sounds great, but would probably sound better if I used one Joe Gagan's wah pots or inductors like on my Foxx Fuzz Wa Vol.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/wah.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/wah.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/wah2.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/wah2.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/wah3.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/wah3.jpg.html)
Quote from: endorphin on December 24, 2015, 03:15:50 AM
It's been a while, where's the wah-wah love guys!?
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/wah2.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/wah2.jpg.html)
The wah love is still here, I think the only reason this thread doesn't get more action is because you really only need one wah on your board, so if you've already got it then you're done. That being said this has always been one of my favorite threads and I enjoy seeing the builds that pop up here from time to time, including yours. Great looking build. 8)
Crybaby GCB95 with mods:
true bypass
leds
mid range switch from stock 1k5 resistor to 2k7
bass and gain switch from 390r to 330r
input gain from 68k to 47k
vocal switch from stock 33k to 68k
2 switches to control sweep from stock 0.01uf to 0.015uf, 0.022uf and 0.068uf
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=52452&g2_serialNumber=1)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=52455&g2_serialNumber=1)
is the vox the same case as the crybaby?....looks identical
ive been looking at one on ebay to mess with..
vox case and dunlop are same from 92 to mid 2000s, when dunlop had the contract to build the voxes. the vox lacks the power supply jack hole, but otherwise identical (minus the chrome and vox letters)
Quote from: matt_krush on August 24, 2015, 09:37:02 PM
Started out as the standard classic Wah...
Sorry I didn't do a clean channel demo...the vid was getting long enough as it was...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsPh2W4a780
matt, your video is so full of errors it should be pulled from youtube. or just edit the whole beginning off and skip to where you play the wah at least.
it is wrong shit like this that adds trouble to my days because people write me asking questions, i have to first un'fuk' the wrong info they've been given by people making vids like yours. i sent you a youtube message trying to assist you with this a year ago, no response, no action as requested, so here it is in public
some of the errors:
1.you point to one of the pot caps on the schem and call it the sweep cap, then proceed to list mods to the sweep cap as if you are pointing to the one that would actually do that. 1a. NOT TO MENTION - this is one of the famously WRONG 18 year old schematics that show both of those pot caps as .001uf which has NEVER been done in a wah, ever.
2. you mention that your wah came with a.001 sweep cap, this would never be the case in a dunlop or another wah. the stock value is .01uf, if you had pointed to the correct cap on the schematic in the first place you may have said it correctly(?) i suspect when you made the video you did not have a clear understanding of nf crossed to uf cap values
3. your sweep cap rotary switch appears to have no resistors to prevent popping. amateur move to not have these, as the noise when switching has got to be horrendous. if you DID install these resistors, this should probably be referred to in your verbal walk through. i suspect you don't have them, or know how to install them.
4. your explanation of the 3pdt makes no sense. please, explain how you are able to get tru bypass with one set of poles on a 3pdt?
i suspect that without the noise gate we would hear bad popping and/or static on the 1k bias knob, the sweep cap switch, and possibly the on/ off itself due to your batt line being in your 3pdt.
cheers joe...i knew you'd know..i'll grab one then.. 8)
Joe
Since you brought up switch popping I have questions. I recently modded a crybaby (see above). It was my first time working on one. I added a number of switches and have popping when using the gain/bass, mid and sweep switches. The gain/bass and mid switches produce the loudest pops.
1. I sort of understand why the sweep switches pop since they are switching caps. Where should the pulldown resistors go?
2. Which cap is causing the pop when the mid switch is used? The 10n at the first transistor and/or the caps on the sweep switches? Where should the pulldown resistors go?
3. Since the gain/bass switch is not directly connected to a cap what is the pop caused by? How can this be fixed?
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=52458&g2_serialNumber=1)
Thanks
i use the GM arts schematic for that, it works like a charm
part2 - peterg ,nice drawing by the way!
for questions 2 and 3, there is DC on those switches as you are using them, causing the noise. not sure if ' break before make' switches would help, i suspect they might.
i also think using two Rs in parallel, with both Q1 side legs tied together would be preferable as far as noise when switching is concerned - using an spdt on the far side to add the 2nd r in parallel to make the second R position. you'll have to do the math on the r values , there are online calculators for that.
i will be interested in your results if you try one or both of these ideas.
Thanks Joe. I'll explore!
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 19, 2014, 03:30:49 PM
ended up making a lightplate for my vol too... 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141019_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141019_007.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141019_001.jpg)
@Rob aka deadastronaut : I am tempted to copy you lightning "trick"... So I have some questions :
- How many LEDs did you use for those lighted bottom-coverplates ?
- You probably drill a hole for each LED in the thickness of the plate to radiate light (it is what I would have done, but...) ?
- Did you measured the current draw by the lightning function ?
Thanks !
hi bruno,
yep its 4 leds, front, back, left/right side..
i use flat top leds, you can scuff/sand them down a little to diffuse the light more evenly..
never bothered measuring as i have a nice psu... 8)
Thanks Rob, fine :
- did you flatten the top of the LED by yourself (filing ?)
- is the flat top looking the thickness of the plexi or looking to the floor (the led being put in a circular hole) ?
Oh, I should make a little drawing to explain my purposes... Here is a picture of my Tubelectron Tube Overdrive, my sole attempt to light a plexi in its thickness :
(http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/188023IMG_3902.jpg)
- the plexi is drilled to the exact diameter of the led (it is a 3mm blue 8000mcd led).
- the led is mounted vertically, by the underneath.
- the led emitting junction is placed at half the height of the thickness of the plexi.
- the plexi being 3mm thick, I didn't needed to flatten the top of the led.
Did you placed the led vertically (like me here) or horizontally ?
If you don't see what I mean, I'll do a drawing for clarity :icon_confused:...
A+!
^Deluxe Reverb schematic?
My first attempt at a Wah, broken 1987 Dunlop Crybaby for $15.
(http://a65.tinypic.com/103vf3r.jpg)
(http://a66.tinypic.com/vn2jrc.jpg)
all goes except the pot, which seems fine, cut the perf, 1960's Vox style inductor courtesy of Joe Gagan
(http://a67.tinypic.com/2w6wi2d.jpg)
Found this schematic online, somebody found it inside his Vox.
(http://a63.tinypic.com/w20nbq.jpg)
Figured my own layout using many of Joe's recommendations.
(http://a68.tinypic.com/330sjyx.jpg)
Then from this...
(http://a67.tinypic.com/34ry4r9.jpg)
...and this...
(http://a65.tinypic.com/jj7fiq.jpg)
...to this...
(http://a65.tinypic.com/2cz7t06.jpg)
New tires and it's done, sounds awesome. Battery only for this one, 5mm LED fits in the former DC jack hole without any drilling.
(http://a68.tinypic.com/jglgs6.jpg)
Very cool. You're lucky the inductor fit down at the shallow end. My wah build (same circuit, different components) was just a tad too bright, changing the sweep cap to .012 put it spot on, sounds pretty much identical to my buddy's '69 stack-o-dimes. Actually I added a .002 in parallel with the .01, same difference.
I also omitted the wall wart jack, but put a Q control there, a 50K pot in series with a 33K resistor on the board. It's pretty subtle but there's a noticable difference between min and max. A pushbutton switch might make more sense but I already had the pot.
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p568/_BigJimSlade/0_zpskvncuqp0.jpg) (http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/_BigJimSlade/media/0_zpskvncuqp0.jpg.html)
Edit: Just noticed that Vox schematic says 68 instead of 68K for the input resistor, oops!
Wow! that looks great therm! and yes, lucky indeed that the inductor fit, I tested before soldering but I really didn't want to have to rework my DIYLC layout, it was hard enough. Joe told me to socket my sweep cap and I probably should have listened but it sounds great almost anywhere I turn the trimmers. You can probably tell from my layout what they all do. The treble bleed on the input is interesting, it's the only one that has a weird spot, let too much treble thru and I get a strange low octave tone if I rock the pedal back to a certain spot. It's easy to adjust it to fix that sound though so I'm really happy with the sounds this thing makes.
Also yes, 68r on the schematic instead of 68k, I used a trimmer there as well. After looking at a billion schematics I noticed some have a different value and Joe recommended the trimmer, it has a great affect on the range of tones. The difference in all the schematics that really threw me for a loop was that half of them show the 68k on one side of the 10n and the other half show it on the other side. I went with my 200k trimmer after the 10n but I don't know what is preferred or why
Quote from: Ben Lyman on July 23, 2016, 03:34:53 PM
Wow! that looks great therm! and yes, lucky indeed that the inductor fit, I tested before soldering but I really didn't want to have to rework my DIYLC layout, it was hard enough. Joe told me to socket my sweep cap and I probably should have listened but it sounds great almost anywhere I turn the trimmers. You can probably tell from my layout what they all do. The treble bleed on the input is interesting, it's the only one that has a weird spot, let too much treble thru and I get a strange low octave tone if I rock the pedal back to a certain spot. It's easy to adjust it to fix that sound though so I'm really happy with the sounds this thing makes.
Also yes, 68r on the schematic instead of 68k, I used a trimmer there as well. After looking at a billion schematics I noticed some have a different value and Joe recommended the trimmer, it has a great affect on the range of tones. The difference in all the schematics that really threw me for a loop was that half of them show the 68k on one side of the 10n and the other half show it on the other side. I went with my 200k trimmer after the 10n but I don't know what is preferred or why
Yeah on the input, the early Clyde McCoys had the cap first, then the 68K, but within a few years it was switched the other way around. I tried it both ways and didn't hear much difference. I started with a 56K input resistor, as is often recommended for true bypass wahs, but I ended up liking a 68K better. Seemed to help tame highs just a tad, and I don't notice a volume drop when I engage the wah. I'm using a .02 input cap, because I broke the .01 when I was experimenting and swapping parts around. The .02 didn't sound much different, if at all. Sounds good so I just left it.