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Having taken a break to work on some smaller circuits of late, I finally got everything to finish the String Ringer (Lovetone Ring Stringer clone). This thing is quite the box. I spent the better part of the day twiddling the knobs, and I'm sure that I'm barely starting to get my head around it. This sucker can just put out some jaw-dropping sounds  :icon_eek:.

I did run into two snags, but with some hardcore staring, I managed to get things sorted out. First, the LFO wasn't working, but then I realized that my LFO Depth jack was grounded to the chassis, thus killing the LFO. Luckily, I had some Switchcraft fiber washers from my Gristleizer build, so I pressed two of them into service, and presto!, problem solved. Here's a pic of the washers in action;

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0923.jpg)

Second snag, I placed a wrong resistor in the R39 slot. Instead of the specified 1.2K, I put in a 2.2K. This made it impossible for me to find a sweet spot for the Vactrol with the 1K trimmer. To make things worse, everything was already bolted into place when I discovered this (THANKS Mr. Murphy  :icon_evil:). I was able to unsolder the 2.2K, and I simply soldered the 1.2K on the backside. Upon further reflection, I figured this might actually be a good thing for some. I used a VTL5C3 in here, but one could use a variety of different LDR/LED combinations. You could try different resistors here to find one that places the 1K trimmer into the zone. Just don't use anything smaller than say 470 Ohm, in case you bottom the trimmer, that way you won't burn the LED, or Vactrol. In my case, the 1.2K resistor works well with the Vactrol. To allow for future adjustment, I drilled a hole in the top, directly above the trimmer. This allows me to slip a screwdriver in to adjust the Vactro trimmer, and a nice little plastic cap finishes things up quite nicely (just above the Octave/Ringmod footswitch).

Considering the complexity of the build, I got away cheap with only two snags. This motivates me for the Ludwig Phase II build coming next  :icon_cool:.

The pots spec'd in the v1.2 pdf were just too rich for my blood, so I improvised. Regular 16mm pots were pressed into service. I measured the height of the rotary switches, and them used a small block of foam to jig each pot to the same height. Pieces of solid wire were then soldered between the poles and the board. Here are some more pics of the build. Sorry, the knobs haven't arrived yet  :icon_redface:...

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0917.jpg)

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0916.jpg)

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0918.jpg)

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0919.jpg)

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0921.jpg)

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0920.jpg)

And of course, the customary video. Mind you, although the video is 9 minutes and change, I'm barely scratching the tip of the iceberg here. You can twiddle knobs until your mind goes numb with this thing. It's a crazy machine. I figure a proper video, going through ALL the different control settings, would be very long indeed. Here you go...



Many thanks once again to all who have contributed information here on this baby. All the info came in handy, especially for the troubleshooting.

And most of all, very special, great big THANK YOU!! to John Lyon's. He went the extra mile and 7/8th's to help me out on this one. A true gentleman, through and through. Without his effort, this project wouldn't have happened. Thanks John!

This is really helpful. I've been slowly filling a string ringer with 'spare' components over a long time and am actually getting close to completely populated. I was also considering using VTL5C3, glad to see it worked for you, I will probably do the same.

Now, I have some hitches/questions with this build:
- 2200k resistors: HUH? where to get these?
- where did you get the LT44 transformers?

Strategy

Transformers and BAT48 diodes courtesy of here;

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2X-LT44-Transformer-and-4-X-BAT48-Schottky-Diodes-Ring-Modulator-Kit-Parts-/120837040857?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1c2272ead9 (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2X-LT44-Transformer-and-4-X-BAT48-Schottky-Diodes-Ring-Modulator-Kit-Parts-/120837040857?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1c2272ead9)

This is what I used, they work very well.

2.2M resistors... hmmm... I had them from some other project... oh yeah, Parallel Universe II, that's it! Mine are carbon 1/2 watters, but they fit just perfect in the space on the PCB. I think Tayda, or dipmicro was where I got them. Just took a look on the Bay, there's tons there.

As for the Vactrol, like I mentioned, you might want to fool around with R39 (1.2K). The less the resistance, the faster it will modulate at lower gains. As you lower the resistance, you'll here the modulation come in harder, so you can play around with the value here. Just be careful not to go too low.

HOLY COW

I love that enclosure.  Is there string ring pcb artwork out there? I musta missed it. I'll go search.  Still need to get on those Ludwig boards I bought from you. A bit intimidated by that one, just the ordering of the parts seems like it would take up an afternoon. Love your projects, man. Good taste.

QuoteIs there string ring pcb artwork out there?

The PCB layout is contained in the build paper. It also includes the schematic, BOM, PCB art work, parts layout, and tuning guide. The build paper can be found here;

http://www.scribd.com/doc/51501609/StringRingerv12r (http://www.scribd.com/doc/51501609/StringRingerv12r) (need to log into Facebook)

or here;

homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.nelson666/StringRingerv12r.pdf (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.nelson666/StringRingerv12r.pdf)  (direct download)

I might try and upload it to the Gallery as well. For some reason it's getting tougher to find.

*EDIT* - OK, I uploaded it to the Gallery. You can get it here as well;

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47333&g2_GALLERYSID=6620e3dd40c9550a2e94aad4dd9d5203 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47333&g2_GALLERYSID=6620e3dd40c9550a2e94aad4dd9d5203)

Very nice Dino! Glad you got that one wrapped up. Thanks again for the trade.

Pedals like this make me want to start new bands!
It's funny, some builds, like this one, are inspiring because I think of all the cool music I could make with one. Other builds are more about the satisfaction of gluing little thingies together with solder. Of course, both are valid, but I started this black hole of a 'hobby' for the former. Nice one digi2t!

Hmm, just noticed something peculiar.

Firstly, let me set the stage; The Octave/Ringmod footswitch has a green LED associated with it. LED OFF means Ocatve mode, LED ON means Ringmod mode. Also, I'm using 3PDT stompbox switches here, so I have a spare pole available on all three switches. With that said....

When in Octave mode, you can kick in/out the LFO. The LFO will modulate your octave signal. With the LFO on, the Octave footswitch LED will come on, and pulsate at the speed of the LFO. Here's the hitch... when you turn the LFO off, the LED will sometimes go off, or sometimes stay on, depending (I'm guessing) where in the LFO sweep/pulse you turned it off. If the IC's output is "high", it keeps the LED on, if it's "low", the LED is off. This is a bit confusing visually, because if it stays on, now you can lose track of whether the unit is in Octave, or Ringmod mode.

Looking at the schematic, the only thing I can figure is that IC3/3 can be on or off depending on where in the cycle I hit the LFO switch. If it's on, then it continues to send power to the LED, even though I turned off the LFO, thus keeping my LED (and Vactrol for that matter) lit. If this correct, then maybe the white jumper marked "Vactrol IN" should run through the unused pole of my LFO footswitch, before going to the Vactrol. That should kill the Octave LED, no matter where in the cycle the LFO is. Right? Here's the schematic;

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/StringRingerv12r1_001.png)

This problem also messes with the DRIVE pot, since the LDR resistance (in parallel) can sometimes be high, or low, depending on where in the cycle you turned off the LFO.

The other thing is that in Ringmod mode, if you turn on the LFO, you have no rate indication, as you have in Octave mode (green footswitch LED flashes). I'm thinking that modding the white wire, and also running a fourth LED from the IC output, with the ground to the switch pole grounding the footswitch LED, should also give me a dedicated RATE LED, whenever I turn on the LFO.
I'm going to try this. If someone could take a quick look at the schem, and confirm my theory, I'd appreciate it.

In the meantime, I'm off to experiment.

Another question for you Digi2T, do you know what part you used for the LFO depth external control jack? Thanks much!
Strategy

Quote from: Strategy on April 22, 2012, 10:04:51 PM
Another question for you Digi2T, do you know what part you used for the LFO depth external control jack? Thanks much!
Strategy

For the jack, here is what I used;

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Jacks/9-lug_Stereo_Jack.html (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Jacks/9-lug_Stereo_Jack.html)

I've used it before on my Gristleizer build, and it works great, BUT.... you will need to isolate the jack from the chassis. If it's grounded in any way, it will kill the LFO. So, I also used these;

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/103859-washer-swedged-fiber-5-8-x3-8-s1029.html (http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/103859-washer-swedged-fiber-5-8-x3-8-s1029.html)

These will take care of the grounding issue, perfectly.

Cheers,
Dino

OK, after some experimenting, I believe I've got the Vactrol / LFO problem licked.

-First, use a 3PDT switch for the LFO footswitch.
-Take the white jumper, that goes from IC3/pin8, to D15, and unsolder it at the D15 end.
-Connect this end of the white wire to the free pole that will be CLOSED to COM on the LFO 3PDT switch, when the LFO is engaged.
-Connect a new jumper from D15 to the free COM pole. This will sent LFO power to the Vactrol only when the LFO is engaged. If you wish, you may connect a second wire to the switch pole - white wire from IC3/pin8 - , add a 2.2K resistor to the positive side of an LED, and connect the LED negative to the COM marked "blue" on the schematic. Now, you'll have a handy RATE indicator, that will show you the LFO rate in any mode, anytime the LFO is on. Turning off the LFO, will also kill the RATE LED.

Also...

The 1.2K resistor specified for the LED/LDR combo is too big for the VTL5C3 Vactrol. I was not satisfied with the adjustment range of the 1K trimmer, so I ran some tests, replacing the 1.2K resistor with a 25K trimmer, to try and find what value would be more effective here with the 1K trimmer.

After some adjusting, I found that at 730 Ohms, I had a better sweep with the 1K trimmer. At one end of the 1K's sweep, the octave rang through louder, with the LFO modulation coming in on the decay. At the other end, the modualtion would be present all the time. Now, I could adjust at what point I want the LFO to come in with the 1K trimmer. If I turned the 25K trimmer any lower (below 300 Ohms), the LFO would start to slow down, since we're getting to close to ground. At this point, I decided to try something else. I replaced the 1K trimmer, with a 5K, and instead of the 1.2K resistor, I used a 680 Ohm.

Nirvana!!

With the 5K, I can sweep from modulation at the very, very end of the note decay, to almost constant modulation. The 680 Ohm resistor does the job of keeping the LFO far away from ground so as not to affect it's speed. I tested this by turning on the LFO, and switching between Octave, and Ringmod. I noticed no change in LFO speed between the two. The 5K trimmer give the best sweep results for the VTL5C3. I highly recommend this set up for the VLT5C3.

Next, I'm going to look at D13, and D14. Maybe I can incorporate a switch here to give me an up/down option as well, like the Uglyface, when modulating my Octave signal.
Stay tuned....

Wow, I'm really surprised that project file is still hosted there. That's hosted on a defunct ISP storage that I had about 7 years ago. I'm no longer with that ISP. In fact, the ISP has been taken over by another company.

Crazy.

Quote from: nelson on April 23, 2012, 06:23:33 PM
Wow, I'm really surprised that project file is still hosted there. That's hosted on a defunct ISP storage that I had about 7 years ago. I'm no longer with that ISP. In fact, the ISP has been taken over by another company.

Crazy.

If you don't mind, I uploaded a copy to the Gallery. Just in case.

Quote from: digi2t on April 23, 2012, 07:02:18 PM

Quote from: nelson on April 23, 2012, 06:23:33 PM
Wow, I'm really surprised that project file is still hosted there. That's hosted on a defunct ISP storage that I had about 7 years ago. I'm no longer with that ISP. In fact, the ISP has been taken over by another company.

Crazy.

If you don't mind, I uploaded a copy to the Gallery. Just in case.

I just hosted it back then for the person who did the project, Markus.

It's his IP.

Nice Build

Ill watch this thread for the mod ideas.
can you tell me if you can hear the octave bleeding through to the bypass signal please?
I dont get any bleed in ring mode, but I can hear faint the oct fuzz in bypass with that option selected.

Also, why did you use BAT diodes and not 1n34a germaniums?

Quotecan you tell me if you can hear the octave bleeding through to the bypass signal please?
I dont get any bleed in ring mode, but I can hear faint the oct fuzz in bypass with that option selected.

Let me look into this. I'm still exploring with this unit, and my mind is still too busy discovering. My ears haven't gone into "picky" mode yet  :icon_mrgreen:.

QuoteAlso, why did you use BAT diodes and not 1n34a germaniums?

I read on the forum (it was Taylor that wrote about it) that Schottky diodes performed better, over silicons and germaniums, in ringmods. Her's Taylor's take on it;

"Diodes don't conduct until you cross their forward voltage threshold. That means that you will have no signal through the diode ring when the signal is smaller than the Vf of the diodes you're using. Germanium diodes have a lower forward V than silicon ( about .3v vs. about .6v) but Schottky diodes are even better, sometimes .15v or .2v. Using a matched quad Schottky array (TI part number UC3611) will give you the least gating and best matching, as the diodes are formed on the same wafer."

As I mentioned before in this thread, I purchased the LT44 transformers, and the BAT48 diodes, as a kit. They've worked out very well.

Sounds good. I used the 1n34a and the octave fuzz is outstanding. I bought 10 to get a matched quad.

If you can get back to me on the bleed issue Id really appreciate it. Might mean I need to tweak a trimmer or somesuch...im not sure..

Here is my build for comparison sake :)
I havent labelled mine yet, either ;)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/RingStinger/P1020310.jpg)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/RingStinger/P1020314.jpg)

Very nice! :icon_cool:

So, tonight I turned on my "picky" ears. You're right, there is bleed through. No doubt about it. Even with shielded wires. I don't think tweaking any trimmer will cure it. I scoped mine, and it's set up pretty nicely.

From what I can see, even in bypass, the audio signal is still running through the board. The input is split, one to the switch, and one to the board. I figure maybe it would be a good idea to ground the input going to the board when the effect is bypassed. Use a 3PDT switch for the Bypass, disconnect the input wire from the board and connect it to the COM of the third set of poles. Run a new wire from one side of switch (effect ON) to the board, and another to ground (effect BYPASS). That should kill any noise coming from the unit when bypassed. I had the same problem with my Gristleizer build (LFO bleed), and the grounding bypass setup was the ticket.

What thinks you?

*EDIT* - YEEEEHHHAAAWWW.... A guy on Ebay that has one for sale, was nice enough to scan and email me a nice, clear copy of the Ring Stinger manual. These suckers are hard to find! I've put it into pdf format, and you can get it here;

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408&g2_GALLERYSID=c2bb43554d90242cac910abf4c9bfb50 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408&g2_GALLERYSID=c2bb43554d90242cac910abf4c9bfb50)

See folks, it's a wheel... sometimes yous helps the folks, and sometimes theys helps you  :icon_mrgreen:.

Quote from: digi2t on April 24, 2012, 10:30:05 PM
Very nice! :icon_cool:

So, tonight I turned on my "picky" ears. You're right, there is bleed through. No doubt about it. Even with shielded wires. I don't think tweaking any trimmer will cure it. I scoped mine, and it's set up pretty nicely.

From what I can see, even in bypass, the audio signal is still running through the board. The input is split, one to the switch, and one to the board. I figure maybe it would be a good idea to ground the input going to the board when the effect is bypassed. Use a 3PDT switch for the Bypass, disconnect the input wire from the board and connect it to the COM of the third set of poles. Run a new wire from one side of switch (effect ON) to the board, and another to ground (effect BYPASS). That should kill any noise coming from the unit when bypassed. I had the same problem with my Gristleizer build (LFO bleed), and the grounding bypass setup was the ticket.

What thinks you?

*EDIT* - YEEEEHHHAAAWWW.... A guy on Ebay that has one for sale, was nice enough to scan and email me a nice, clear copy of the Ring Stinger manual. These suckers are hard to find! I've put it into pdf format, and you can get it here;

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408&g2_GALLERYSID=c2bb43554d90242cac910abf4c9bfb50 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408&g2_GALLERYSID=c2bb43554d90242cac910abf4c9bfb50)

See folks, it's a wheel... sometimes yous helps the folks, and sometimes theys helps you  :icon_mrgreen:.

Any chance you could scribble me a schematic of what you are referring to? Ive read it and not sure how to implement it. Sounds right whatever but its the wiring that confuses me.

Edit - by COM do you mean the middle common pole of the switch? then the top one goes back to the board, bottom one goes to ground?

QuoteEdit - by COM do you mean the middle common pole of the switch? then the top one goes back to the board, bottom one goes to ground?

Lace... you don`t give yourself enough credit... that`s exactly what I mean  :icon_biggrin:. You`ve got the idea. That way, when you engage the effect, you close the circuit between the input and the board. When you bypass, you switch the board`s input to ground. Theoretically, that should kill any noise bleed (nose bleed?  :icon_lol:).

gorgeous, dino...and man!! what a sound!

well done!!

Does anyone know what just the octave fuzz portion of the circuit is, and if its possible to just make that in a pedal?
I think it sounds awesome.

Looks to me like they're using half of the transformer / diode ring assembly of the ringmod board. Looks like a Tycobrahe Octavia type thingy to me. I have a GGG Tyco Octavia, and the octave effect is almost identical.

BTW, I tried the mod of disconnecting the board input when bypassing with a 3PDT, and it works perfect. You don't even need to ground the input on the board side when bypassed, just disconnecting works fine. No more faint octave buzz in the background. But.... I have noticed the LFO ticking in the background now....

So... it's time for the BIG GUN!!! A 4PDT switch for the bypass. As I mentioned, the third set of poles will be for the board input to kill the octave bleed, and the fourth set will be to kill the LFO bleed. Just so happens that I had one on hand, so I swapped it in;

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0933.jpg)

The wiring for killing the LFO is super simple. We just need to make the connection between the "SW1 grey" and "SW1 brown" wires when we bypass the effect. Just jumper these two wires from the LFO switch, and bring them to the fourth pole section of the 4PDT switch. Now, connect the two wires to the side of 4PDT will close the circuit on these two wires when you bypass, no matter what position the LFO is in. There you go, LFO noise killed.

That's it. My unit is DEAD quiet now in bypass. No ticks, no fuzz... nothing. I know the 4PDT setup isn't elegant, and fairly pricey at 11$ (@ Effects Connection), but it gets the job done. Besides, for all this puppy can give (not to mention the price of the real thing), I consider it a small investment. Also, if this is a direct clone of the real one, the switch makes the clone even better  :icon_mrgreen:.

I've send a PM out, asking if it would be possible to update the build pdf. I would like to either update the version to 1.3, or at least add an addendum to address these issues. Hopefully, the author will be cool with it.

I'm stickin' a fork in this one  :icon_cool:.

*EDIT* - I put it back on the scope just to finalize everything. Fine-tuned the waveshapes, and buttoned everything up. Here's another video of the finish (almost...still no knobs :icon_mrgreen:) product. Once again, just scratching the surface.



One last thing on tuning. In the build pdf, you're given two options on tuning the VCO waveshape. First method is by ear, using the sine wave, the other is with a scope using the square wave. I myself used a PC scope. The thing is this; if you scope the sine wave, adjust it to be as uniform as possible, then look at the square wave, you'll notice that the square wave isn't as square as it could be. On the flip side, if you readjust, and make a nice square wave, it throws out the sine wave. Even the triangle wave gets thrown out of shape.

Audibly, the unit sounds much nicer when the sine and triangle waves are nice and smooth. I don't notice much difference with the square wave. So, if you're scoping it, choose sine wave, and get that one nice. Switch and check it with the triangle wave as well, you may have to do some difference splitting between the two to get them as nice as possible. Don't worry about the square wave. You'll see, in sine mode, the ringmod will put out some amazingly clear bell clang tones. Much cleaner than if you insist on getting the square wave, well... too square. It's like standing next to Big Ben. With the sine and triangle waves nice and smooth, the ringmod is just KILLER, in any mode.

great thread, great build, and 11 dollars for a 4pdt switch is no big deal.

10 yrs ago, we had WAY fewer options for parts, all you youngins , just be happy this hobby affords so many parts options.

I've talked with Markus, and he's cool with updating the v1.2 build pdf. Seems like a real rightous dude  :icon_cool:.

I'm going to update the wiring to use the different switches, and I'm going to provide an additional PCB transfer for the transformer board. The modified board will allow for use of the T.I. UC3611, Schottky Diode Array chip.

Once Markus approves the document, I'll post the new version in Gallery.

I've decided to give my unit an extra bell and whistle. I'm going to install a BNC connector, so I can plug in one of these Hosa gooseneck LED lights. Like this one;

(http://lenrom.com/images/Product/large/LTE503BNC.jpg)

And I'm going to place a socketed LDR right between two footswitches, really close to the edge. I can then use the LDR to control the VCO with my foot, and the gooseneck lamp will be adjustable over top of the LDR. With the LDR close to the edge, and between two switches, I can sneak my foot in there, and cover up the LDR to change the resistance. Then I can throw the VCO all over the place :icon_twisted:. The LED gooseneck will be there to compensate for ambient light conditions i.e. dark stage. I'll add a toggle switch on the panel to switch between the LDR input, or the 1/4" jack input.

I've seen this setup on another effect somewhere, but I can't remember which one. Anyway, I've been fooling around with an LDR on the VCO CV, and you can get some really bizarre stuff going on by manipulating the LDR. This is going to be a fun mod.

Quote from: digi2t on April 26, 2012, 12:02:07 PM
Looks to me like they're using half of the transformer / diode ring assembly of the ringmod board. Looks like a Tycobrahe Octavia type thingy to me. I have a GGG Tyco Octavia, and the octave effect is almost identical.

BTW, I tried the mod of disconnecting the board input when bypassing with a 3PDT, and it works perfect. You don't even need to ground the input on the board side when bypassed, just disconnecting works fine. No more faint octave buzz in the background. But.... I have noticed the LFO ticking in the background now....

So... it's time for the BIG GUN!!! A 4PDT switch for the bypass. As I mentioned, the third set of poles will be for the board input to kill the octave bleed, and the fourth set will be to kill the LFO bleed. Just so happens that I had one on hand, so I swapped it in;

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0933.jpg)

The wiring for killing the LFO is super simple. We just need to make the connection between the "SW1 grey" and "SW1 brown" wires when we bypass the effect. Just jumper these two wires from the LFO switch, and bring them to the fourth pole section of the 4PDT switch. Now, connect the two wires to the side of 4PDT will close the circuit on these two wires when you bypass, no matter what position the LFO is in. There you go, LFO noise killed.

That's it. My unit is DEAD quiet now in bypass. No ticks, no fuzz... nothing. I know the 4PDT setup isn't elegant, and fairly pricey at 11$ (@ Effects Connection), but it gets the job done. Besides, for all this puppy can give (not to mention the price of the real thing), I consider it a small investment. Also, if this is a direct clone of the real one, the switch makes the clone even better  :icon_mrgreen:.

I've send a PM out, asking if it would be possible to update the build pdf. I would like to either update the version to 1.3, or at least add an addendum to address these issues. Hopefully, the author will be cool with it.

I'm stickin' a fork in this one  :icon_cool:.

*EDIT* - I put it back on the scope just to finalize everything. Fine-tuned the waveshapes, and buttoned everything up. Here's another video of the finish (almost...still no knobs :icon_mrgreen:) product. Once again, just scratching the surface.

One last thing on tuning. In the build pdf, you're given two options on tuning the VCO waveshape. First method is by ear, using the sine wave, the other is with a scope using the square wave. I myself used a PC scope. The thing is this; if you scope the sine wave, adjust it to be as uniform as possible, then look at the square wave, you'll notice that the square wave isn't as square as it could be. On the flip side, if you readjust, and make a nice square wave, it throws out the sine wave. Even the triangle wave gets thrown out of shape.

Audibly, the unit sounds much nicer when the sine and triangle waves are nice and smooth. I don't notice much difference with the square wave. So, if you're scoping it, choose sine wave, and get that one nice. Switch and check it with the triangle wave as well, you may have to do some difference splitting between the two to get them as nice as possible. Don't worry about the square wave. You'll see, in sine mode, the ringmod will put out some amazingly clear bell clang tones. Much cleaner than if you insist on getting the square wave, well... too square. It's like standing next to Big Ben. With the sine and triangle waves nice and smooth, the ringmod is just KILLER, in any mode.

thanks for this
Ima try to see if I can fit a 3pdt in mine somehow might have to grind some of the case to make it fit.
I havent noticed LFO noise  on mine but ill scrutinise it

hopefully i get time tommorow.

Quote from: digi2t on April 27, 2012, 10:47:25 AM
I've seen this setup on another effect somewhere, but I can't remember which one. Anyway, I've been fooling around with an LDR on the VCO CV, and you can get some really bizarre stuff going on by manipulating the LDR. This is going to be a fun mod.

Hey Dino...

I believe you may have seen these used on Rob's (deadastronaut) Lightwah builds  ;D

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 28, 2012, 09:03:02 PM

Quote from: digi2t on April 27, 2012, 10:47:25 AM
I've seen this setup on another effect somewhere, but I can't remember which one. Anyway, I've been fooling around with an LDR on the VCO CV, and you can get some really bizarre stuff going on by manipulating the LDR. This is going to be a fun mod.

Hey Dino...

I believe you may have seen these used on Rob's (deadastronaut) Lightwah builds  ;D

No... I`m pretty sure there is something commercial out there using this idea. I just can`t for the life of me put my finger on it. I keep thinking Z-Vex, but I`m not sure. I`ll have to do some research, so I can get some sleep  :icon_mrgreen:

*EDIT* - I FOUND IT!!!! Not a guitar effect, but that`s where I saw the concept for the first time. Bleeplabs Thingamagoop.
PHEW!! That was REALLY starting to bug me  :icon_wink:

So I built another one of these
I also revisited my first build and did the "true bypass" mod. Had to hack away at the case and the PCB a bit to make it fit :) but I got there in the end.

Liking the sound of my new one better. Think I got lucky with my by ear tuning. Love this thing, so random and crazy.

Pics!

So the second one:

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Ringstinger%202/P1030015.jpg)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Ringstinger%202/P1030016.jpg)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Ringstinger%202/P1030011.jpg)

and the brothers together:

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Ringstinger%202/P1030012.jpg)

old one with the bypass mod

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/RingStinger/P1030014.jpg)

Wow, REALLY NICE Lace. I absolutely love your nice neat wiring.

I've had the final Okee Dokee from Markus on a new v1.3 build document. I've uploaded it to the Gallery. I have both documents there, just in case some purist insists on building one with the original idiosyncracies.

Both files are under "Dino's stuff / Information files". Direct download:

v1.2 - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47333 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47333)

v1.3 - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47423 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47423)

Ring Stinger manual - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408)

If anyone has more ideas, bring them on. You never know, maybe a v1.4 one day?  :icon_mrgreen:

Enjoy,
Dino

Cool

I have a copy of the manual each page as a jpeg if you want them, not that its a competition but its nicer quality than the one you have :)
I can try to make it a PDF perhaps?

I like the additons to the build doc. Im happy with mine as it is now, but if I were to make another I think I would plan for the 4PDT and other mods.

Pats on the back all round for us managing to even get this beast of a project working - although I must admit both mine fired up first time. How is it that I cant get a tonebender to work, but I can build this haha

QuoteI have a copy of the manual each page as a jpeg if you want them, not that its a competition but its nicer quality than the one you have 
I can try to make it a PDF perhaps?

That would be great. I can convert them to pdf then. I've PM'd you my email address, please send them there.

QuoteI like the additons to the build doc. Im happy with mine as it is now, but if I were to make another I think I would plan for the 4PDT and other mods.

Maybe a component / board mod will allow the use of the usual 3DPDT switches. Something to look into one day, I think.

QuotePats on the back all round for us managing to even get this beast of a project working - although I must admit both mine fired up first time. How is it that I cant get a tonebender to work, but I can build this haha

Two words.... Murphy's Law  :icon_lol: Sometimes it's just the simplicity that stupifies us.

also FWIW I found it MUCH easier to build (and faster) the second time round.

Here are my two wiring pics haha crazy

Old

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/RingStinger/P1020305.jpg)

New

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Ringstinger%202/P1030005.jpg)

Quote from: digi2t on April 30, 2012, 07:19:50 PM

QuoteI have a copy of the manual each page as a jpeg if you want them, not that its a competition but its nicer quality than the one you have 
I can try to make it a PDF perhaps?

That would be great. I can convert them to pdf then. I've PM'd you my email address, please send them there.

Done. Mine is a newer version from 2001 so worth archiving both.

SWEETNESS!!!! I finally found the right knobs to finish this sucker  :icon_mrgreen:

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0961.jpg)

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Ring%20Stinger/DSCF0962.jpg)

How's THAT for a nice "'62 Chevy Bel-Air" look?

They just don't make NOTHING like they used to.... maaaaaaannnnnnn  :icon_cool:

can anyone advise if the BC549c  is specific requirement?

  or can any bc549 do?

  i have 3 x bc549c ,

heaps of bc549b,

and a couple that say bc549?

Dude! Why did you have to bump this thread?!?!? :icon_evil: I gotta build this thing now, ugh!  :icon_evil:

Yeah Ive got this and several others too! ... SOORRY :)

(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/IMG_3313.jpg)

YES!

Quote from: njkmonty on October 13, 2012, 08:11:16 PM
can anyone advise if the BC549c  is specific requirement?

  or can any bc549 do?

  i have 3 x bc549c ,

heaps of bc549b,

and a couple that say bc549?

Try 2N5089. Just watch the pinout.

so your first preference is 2N5089 ?
I know smallbear has a few  bc549c's left

Quote from: njkmonty on October 14, 2012, 09:11:45 PM
so your first preference is 2N5089 ?
I know smallbear has a few  bc549c's left

I built mine with bc549c`s, only because they were spec`d, and the result was already validated. Besides, I wasn`t in any rush. On the other hand, looking at the spec`s 2N5089`s will probably do the job just fine. High gain, low noise.

What the hell man, have some fun with it! That`s what sockets are for. :icon_mrgreen:

I'm currently building a String Ringer and I have almost finished populating the board but I have a question about one of the components. Does C20 (2,2 uF between blend and volume pot on the board) has to be non-polarized? Otherwise what should be the orientation?

I have been building mine for ages and adding a few more parts to an order. I also have some parts questions on this project:

- 2200k resistor. Same as 2.2M???

- 460 ohm resistor. I cannot find this in Mouser!!! is this a hard to find value?

thanks!!!
STRATEGY

Strategy, you need a E192 resistor for that value.

Regarding big NP caps:

From R.G.:

You can make a quick and dirty NP cap by tying together the negatives of two equal-sized polar caps.

In the series-NP connection, the capacitance value is funny. Normally caps in series are a smaller capacitance than either cap by itself. If you had two 3.3uF polyester caps, then the expected value for two of them in series is 1.65uF. However, electrolytic caps actually conduct in the reverse direction, so two 3.3uF polarized aluminum electrolytic caps act like they each have a diode in parallel with them that conducts when the voltage is backwards for that one cap. So two 3.3uF caps hooked up as series non polar (i.e. negative to negative) look like a single 3.3uF NP cap.

E192?  ???

thanks Garcho any more explanation appreciated  :icon_biggrin:

Quote from: garcho on March 27, 2013, 08:55:22 PM
Strategy, you need a E192 resistor for that value.

Quote from: Strategy on March 27, 2013, 07:52:01 PM
I have been building mine for ages and adding a few more parts to an order. I also have some parts questions on this project:

- 2200k resistor. Same as 2.2M???

- 460 ohm resistor. I cannot find this in Mouser!!! is this a hard to find value?

thanks!!!
STRATEGY

2.2M is correct.

If memory serves me correctly, I used 470 ohm. Seemed to work fine for me.

thanks digi2t and garcho! string ringer strategy build inches forward!

Quote from: digi2t on March 27, 2013, 09:35:11 PM

Quote from: Strategy on March 27, 2013, 07:52:01 PM
I have been building mine for ages and adding a few more parts to an order. I also have some parts questions on this project:

- 2200k resistor. Same as 2.2M???

- 460 ohm resistor. I cannot find this in Mouser!!! is this a hard to find value?

thanks!!!
STRATEGY

2.2M is correct.

If memory serves me correctly, I used 470 ohm. Seemed to work fine for me.

It's the 'preferred number' system, from manufacturing. A resistor with 10% tolerance is in the 'E12' series of values (5k6, 6k8, 8k2, etc.). The 5% resistors are of the E24 series of values, 1% are E48, etc. For a 459 Ohm resistor, you need E192. I think that's only available in SMD. I think it's also 'military' grade, or as I like to call it, 'life or death' grade, so it will be unavailable or expensive.

Read up on resistor values here (http://www.logwell.com/tech/components/resistor_values.html).

470r is fine
You can get the 2.2uF as np if you look around.

Quote from: garcho on March 27, 2013, 11:19:49 PM
It's the 'preferred number' system, from manufacturing. A resistor with 10% tolerance is in the 'E12' series of values (5k6, 6k8, 8k2, etc.). The 5% resistors are of the E24 series of values, 1% are E48, etc. For a 459 Ohm resistor, you need E192. I think that's only available in SMD. I think it's also 'military' grade, or as I like to call it, 'life or death' grade, so it will be unavailable or expensive.

Read up on resistor values here (http://www.logwell.com/tech/components/resistor_values.html).

:icon_eek:

Thanks for the link. Going to bed less stoopid tonight.

Sorry to bump and older thread but I suspect i am not the only one with an 85% complete String Ringer on the bench?  :)

I have a puzzle with the transformers I received, I think they're LT44's (from the recommended ebay seller who sells matched xfm and diode sets for this sort of project).

On the build docs, the "P" side of the xfm has 2 legs and the "S" side 3.
On the xfm's I received, the "P" side has 3 legs and the "S" side has 3 legs - the middle one having been cut short on both xfms.

I just want to be sure I don't have a goof with the parts - haven't done a lot of projects with these little transformers. Should I trim out the middle leg on the "P" side of the ones I received? Anyone encounter this with the transformers they got? Possible that I have the wrong parts?

thanks much for anyone who can help.
Strategy

Here's an LT44 diagram;

(http://www.usefulcomponents.com/ebay/pictures/transformers/lt44_sheet.jpg)

Primary = 2 leads.
Secondary = 3 leads.

Which begs the question; What have you got?  :icon_rolleyes:

Yeah I'm thinking I've got a wrong part, I'll double check when I get back to the studio later. Thanks for posting that!

Quote from: Strategy on February 07, 2014, 04:46:57 PM
Yeah I'm thinking I've got a wrong part, I'll double check when I get back to the studio later. Thanks for posting that!

No problemo amigo.

I can't remember the part number now..maybe LT117 or smething...these are definitely not LT44's!
Anyone know of a consistent source? having trouble finding.

This is the kit that I bought, from this dealer. It's what is in my ringer.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2X-LT44-Transformer-and-4-X-BAT48-Schottky-Diodes-Ring-Modulator-Kit-Of-Parts-/121233210635?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item1c3a0ffd0b (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2X-LT44-Transformer-and-4-X-BAT48-Schottky-Diodes-Ring-Modulator-Kit-Of-Parts-/121233210635?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item1c3a0ffd0b)

Yep that's the seller I ordered from, same Ebay entry. I'll write them and see what's up.
Strategy

Quote from: Strategy on February 09, 2014, 01:19:47 AM
Yep that's the seller I ordered from, same Ebay entry. I'll write them and see what's up.
Strategy

Weird. :icon_rolleyes:

Yup, I would send a message pronto, send him a photo of what you got as well. I'm sure it was a muck up somewhere on their end. That guy's been dealing those kits for a long time now, he should be receptive to correcting the situation.

Yeah we are exchanging messages back and forth now...

well this is interesting and should provide some potential information for people seeking LT-44 alternatives. This is from the Ebay seller providing responses about the transformer/diode parts kits:

Seller's message:
"Hello, Ah! On these LT44 replacements I've cut the middle wire on the correct side so that the pin-out is correct to drop straight in to a ring-mod with the impedances the right way round. You should ignore the 'P' marking. There's sometimes confusion with the primary and secondary sides because in the original inter-stage application in 1960's transistor radios, the secondary was the side with the centre-tap driving forwards into the two pnp output transistors as a phase splitter which doesn't make much sense in a ring mod. Those are Xicon devices as seen here: http://www.usefulcomponents.com/ebay/pictures/transformers/xicon/xicon_42tm_series_s.jpg If you trawl through the spec you should see it's correct. They are actually better transformers than the current P631M Eagle part which is generally sold as LT44. Henry."

Id just buy these in the UK... I used them in 2 stringers, work great

cheaper, too, Id wager, if you have a maplin nearby and dont need to pay the postage.
Maplin also stock the actual lovetone knobs as used on the real deals.
who'd have thunk it?!

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/miniature-audio-matching-transformer-200mw-hx82d

I'm not in the UK and already have the transfomers I got from the ebay guy, so I'm going to follow his instructions and see how it sounds! Getting very close now just missing a few more parts. Down to the last questions, for now I think:

- What's a good part to get for the VCO depth input jack? ...smallbear part # maybe?
- do switches and pots solder onto the component side or trace side of the board?

Thanks to everyone here for the big help on this complex project. I'm trying the v.1.3  build out of it

Strategy

Isolated switching jack;

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=724 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=724)

Everything mounts on the component side. Pictures of my build;

http://s214.photobucket.com/user/digi2t/library/Ring%20Stinger?sort=3&page=1 (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/digi2t/library/Ring%20Stinger?sort=3&page=1)

Notice that just below the VCO selector switch (next to the green LED) there is a small rubber plug. I drilled a hole there for access to the LDR trimmer. Rather than have everything hanging out to adjust the LDR, I could simply pop off the plug, and adjust the trimmer directly with my trimmer tool. I'm going from memory here (so I might be wrong), the LDR determines the transition point in the signal decay where the VCO kicks in, so adjusting it is somewhat of a taste thing. Having easy access to it is a good thing, and if you're using an LED/LDR arrangement, rather than a Vactrol, keeping everything dark inside is best.

Thanks! I elected to use the vactrol. I meant lfo depth jack, i think you figured out what i meant though :) thanks!

Quote from: Strategy on February 13, 2014, 01:01:28 AM
Thanks! I elected to use the vactrol. I meant lfo depth jack, i think you figured out what i meant though :) thanks!

Not really. It was a process of elimination deal. It's the only weird jack in there.  :D

Two more questions...

Any musical usefulness in bringing the waveshape tuning to panel as a control?

And, does anyone have a trustworthy drill guide? Drilling enclosures for these loveclone projects w/ mult rotary switches gives me the heebie jeebies

Thanks! Just waiting on my smallbear order now...

QuoteAny musical usefulness in bringing the waveshape tuning to panel as a control?

None that I can think of.

QuoteAnd, does anyone have a trustworthy drill guide? Drilling enclosures for these loveclone projects w/ mult rotary switches gives me the heebie jeebies

What I did was print the PCB layout 1:1, mark all the centers on the page, and compare that to the built board. When you're satisfied that your X's and O's are in the right place, then transfer the page to the enclosure top. Tape it down, and then center punch your marks to the enclosure.

I always drill my holes about 1mm oversize, to allow for some wiggle room. 

Quote from: Strategy on February 15, 2014, 08:00:51 PM
And, does anyone have a trustworthy drill guide? Drilling enclosures for these loveclone projects w/ mult rotary switches gives me the heebie jeebies

For mine, I took Electricstorm's 1550G template for the Lovetone flange, taped the PCB transfer artwork on top of it, and measured distance from the pot wire holes to the shaft for the pots, with the rotaries at the centre of the artwork for them. Good thing is that this board is symmetrical, controlwise.

Well been prodding at this bit by bit and have it substantially wired up. Am now in possession of the necessary 2-switch LFO depth jack and totally puzzled at how the pinout relates to the diagram in the build doc. Any advice in unraveling this mystery?

Had a run of great DIY successes lately but when I run into a new type of switch or switching jack it tends to result in some slowdown...

Thanks for any help...!
Strategy

Quote from: Strategy on March 22, 2014, 05:32:40 PM
Well been prodding at this bit by bit and have it substantially wired up. Am now in possession of the necessary 2-switch LFO depth jack and totally puzzled at how the pinout relates to the diagram in the build doc. Any advice in unraveling this mystery?

Had a run of great DIY successes lately but when I run into a new type of switch or switching jack it tends to result in some slowdown...

Thanks for any help...!
Strategy

Does this help?

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/209/KC-301403-193175.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/209/KC-301403-193175.pdf)

Let me know if you're still in the Land of Perplexion if the above doc doesn't help. I'll open up my unit and trace it out for you.

That's looking promising, the diagram has numerals...going to give it a shot!!
thanks a ton!
Strategy

Quote from: Strategy on March 24, 2014, 01:38:05 AM
That's looking promising, the diagram has numerals...going to give it a shot!!
thanks a ton!
Strategy

No problemo. Like I said, if yu hit a road block, PM me, and I`ll open up my unit, and I`ll draw up a connection diagram for you.

Hi Digi2t,
I did indeed hit a roadblock with the LFO Depth jack wiring...a trace or other diagram would be helpful...the datasheet you linked shows a few more connections than what is shown in the jack diagram in the PDF, I got nervous trying to extrapolate...I'm sure there are unused terminals on the jack but now I'm not sure which ones...but in any case...

IT WORKS!   :)....80% anyways!

I decided to put some power through it even though the LFO section is basically disabled without the depth jack. I get ring modulation, voltage control, controls seem to do what they're supposed to do, etc.

Aside from the incomplete LFO wiring, I only have 1 issue. VCO Frequency pot does not seem to go very high range. It goes from sub-audible (like tremelo) lows to not very high. Under voltage control - 0-5V LFO signal from my modular synth - I get the full range from glassy ultra high frequencies down to the tremelo type low's.

Could the limited range of the VCO freq pot be associated with the incomplete LFO wiring? I have verified I used the correct pot value here (B100K). Or, is it also possible that this is supposed to be the range of this pot and its only with the onboard LFO or with an external CV that you can actually reach a greater range? Not having ever played an OG ring stinger I'm not certain what the pot range is supposed to be.

I don't have a scope, but I'll see if I can get a simple oscilloscope VST plugin or something, so I could post the floor and ceiliing values for the VCO frequency as it stands under control of just the potentiometer.

Thanks to everyone on this thread for the help...Getting this thing done is a dream come true literally years in the making...I think I've had this on my bench since 2006 LOL

Strategy

i post this elsewhere in this forum without answer can any one help?

i just received from ebay a IRFU9024   and i noticed they where way small i was expecting a TO-220  package size

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2PCS-MOSFET-IR-TO251-FU9024N-FU9024-IRFU9024N-IRFU9024-/200994856749?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecc3a1f2d&_uhb=1

did i buy the right ones, they look half the size of a to-220

is this what is needed?

Hi! I used this same one and it works great. It also looked small to me but I haven't done a lot of projects with this type of rectifier part.
Strategy

Yeah, that's fine. I used the same one.

Been working on mine slowly since the turn of the year. Just need the off board wiring soldered and a few misc bits mainly the ldr and green led. It's so mammoth that's its daunting to think about testing before boxing and daunting to think about boxing before testing. Yikes!

Glops, you know I found a cardboard box that was sized appropriately and created a cardboard mockup for testing. Just poke holes, put in your controls, label, make sure it's one where the lid lifts off easily so you can pop it open and work on it. Be aware not to burn the cardboard with your soldering iron.

there is a ton of trouble shooting. I am pretty sure my wiring is correct but there are still some glitches for me. But so close now. I've been working on this incrementally for like 5 years! A lot of the components are from the surplus shop, I'd just populate it a little bit at a time. SO close now.

Quote from: Strategy on April 24, 2014, 01:15:28 AM
Glops, you know I found a cardboard box that was sized appropriately and created a cardboard mockup for testing. Just poke holes, put in your controls, label, make sure it's one where the lid lifts off easily so you can pop it open and work on it. Be aware not to burn the cardboard with your soldering iron.

there is a ton of trouble shooting. I am pretty sure my wiring is correct but there are still some glitches for me. But so close now. I've been working on this incrementally for like 5 years! A lot of the components are from the surplus shop, I'd just populate it a little bit at a time. SO close now.

Good call on the box. I have a shoe box under my couch that would work perfectly. I think I have everything in place except for the ldr/led or vactrol but I put a socket in. I also need to order pots and jacks, as well...

So close now! A few more questions

- when effect is on there's low level oscillator sound in the background, esp noticeable at high frequencies. Trimmers don't seem to affect it much. My Maestro ring mod clone does this too; in fact the only ring mod I've used that doesn't seem to have this problem is my bandmates Moogerfooger ring modulator. Is there a trick to dealing with this? Or it's just part of it? I after the fact realized I didn't use shielded wire where recommended, will that affect VCO background bleed?

- is VCO out jack level supposed to be so low? I'm not sure it's a problem that it's so attenuated, as it's not a feature I'll use often, but by comparison the Maestro ring mod puts out a brutally hot signal out of its own VCO out. Can anyone let me know if this low level is consistent in their builds?

thanks again to all for the help on this big project
Strategy

I found the VCO out was damn loud, in fact I was able to calibrate it with the amp plugged into the VCO jack, and the volume set at *nothing*.

You can try adjusting the trimmer on the daughterboard if you're getting a lot of bleed through. I'm lazy, I didn't bother.

Finally finished mine, but just the octave fuzz works. Did some debugging today but no dice. Was going to post some debug voltages but both of my meters stopped working. Total bummer!

Hey guys. This is the first time I've ever posted voltages for anything. After a lot of head scratching and no success maybe you will be able to see something here. I've reflowed some joints, triple checked my wiring, didn't do any parts substituting. I built this on the 1.2 board. These are the voltages I got with the unit on and the vco and lfo off. Powered via onespot.

IC1

1 - 4.4V
2 - 4.4
3 - 4.4
4 - 8.77
5 - 4.37
6 - 4.39
7 - 4.39
8 - 4.4
9 - 4.4
10 -3.6
11 - 0
12 - 4.35
13 - 4.4
14 - 4.4

IC2

1 - 8.58V
2 - 7.34
3 - 8.04
4 - 9.4
5 - 7.95
6 - 8.75
7 - 1.5
8 - 6
9 - 8.03
10 -8.03
11 - 0
12 - 8.03
13 - 8.03
14 - 8.03

IC3


1 - 8.03V
2 - 8.03
3 - 8.00
4 - 9.48
5 - 9.48
6 - 8.03
7 - 8.02
8 - 1.88
9 - 8.03
10 - 6.78
11 - 0
12 - 8.03
13 - 8.03
14 - 8.03

IC4

1 - 4.41
2 - 4.41
3 - 4.41
4 - 0
5 - 4.35
6 - 4.41
7 - 4.41
8 - 8.77

Thanks, let me know if there is anything that looks bad. I haven't wanted a project to work this much in ages....

Glops, look at the wiring. This is where all my issues were. Try plugging things into the LFO depth input, the VCO CV input, etc. I had things wired in such a way that the ring modulation section didn't engage until I inserted something in the jacks! I was able to tune and trouble shoot the ring modulation this way, then just re-figure out the wiring. The diagrams are well done but it is very easy to get wiring wrong on this project and I found all my errors were there and not on the board.

Strategy

you appear to have similar voltages to me on ic's 2 and 3  when mine wasnt working properly
mine where all around 8v too  i had a bad solder joint around voltage divider section, where one of the resistors wasnt connected to ground properly  so i was getting 8volts instead of 4!

this is my debugging of it
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107516.msg977782#msg977782

also mine also had similar symptons, a bit of fuzz but nothing else.

Thanks guys. I'll do more poking around. I think I have everything wired up correctly. I did see your debug thread, njkmonty. Will check those connections next. Can't wait to get this fired up properly. The octave fuzz by itself is just as nasty as the Foxx Tone Machine. Like it a lot.

Fixed  :D had a solder bridge on ic 3 that fudged up my vref. Cut that, remeasured and everything is awesome! I'm floored. Everything I wanted and more. This has been worth the wait. I'm in love...

Yeah, the Ring Stinger is pretty damn insane :D

Quote from: glops on June 25, 2014, 05:42:31 PM
Fixed  :D had a solder bridge on ic 3 that fudged up my vref. Cut that, remeasured and everything is awesome! I'm floored. Everything I wanted and more. This has been worth the wait. I'm in love...

Yeah, it's one of those "pre-emptive strike" type pedals. Glad to hear that it's working. :icon_cool:

Here's my beast!
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51324&g2_serialNumber=1)

Halfway through my String Ringer build and I can't find a 3nf cap for C8, has anyone else used 3.3nf?

Tia,

Quote from: ficelles on March 12, 2020, 06:30:32 AM
Halfway through my String Ringer build and I can't find a 3nf cap for C8, has anyone else used 3.3nf?

Tia,

Original used a 3.3nF.  8)

Thanks :)

Second newbie question, is it necessary to use all 8 header pins for the daughterboard? 4 of the 8 holes are concealed by the LT44s...

Tia,

Quote from: ficelles on March 12, 2020, 04:21:55 PM
Thanks :)

Second newbie question, is it necessary to use all 8 header pins for the daughterboard? 4 of the 8 holes are concealed by the LT44s...

Tia,

The 4 inner pads are circuit connectors. The 4 outer pads are for added support. I highly recommend using all four for maximum stability.

Thanks for the info, wishing I'd put the LT44s on last now...

Getting there...

(https://i.postimg.cc/67JpDKv2/93-B746-FC-5495-4-C37-A63-F-5-C6-B28176-A45.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67JpDKv2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1nMRnNYw/B5-C2-E17-A-18-D6-4-DDC-A3-D4-0-C364-FF7-C948.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nMRnNYw)

In my build I've decided not to wire the external jacks so have jumpered Carrier and LFO Depth, I guess that is right?

Nearly ready to turn it on and see if it works...

[Edit] Well that was embarrassing. And the mistake is right there in the photo  :-[

(https://i.postimg.cc/34Q816j9/fullsizeoutput-7e2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34Q816j9)

And finished, with better switch wiring than my first attempt.

(https://i.postimg.cc/KRxjMqxG/obxp-FL9f-Qp-KNWX-kt63-WQQ.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRxjMqxG)

Hi guys,

I just bought this PCB, so trying to get the order together.  Regarding R3 - its listed as 100k-1M, pardon my ignorance, but does that mean anything between those values?

Looks like I used 1M in my build...

I'm trying to troubleshoot the V1.3 I etched a couple years ago. It works like a charm except for the square wave section of the VCO. The sound drops out heavily when I switch to it. I've checked the transistor and resistors in that portion of the circuit and the components all seem to test fine. When I used my audio probe on it I have sound until after the 15k R22. I've looked for solder bridges and cold joints and can't figure this one out. I've found a couple other posts where people had similar issues with the square wave dropping out, but they had other issues I'm not. Has anyone else run into this?

Hi all.

Im having some trouble debugging this (looks like common issue with the build!) I've got the DeadEnd FX 2018 red pcb.

All LEDs work and pressing the switches i get following results.

Bypass switch - slightly thins out guitar signal

Bypass and octave/osc switch on - oscillator tone that is tunable with the VCO knob and blend control goes between dry and VCO (fully clock = VCO only etc)

Bypass/octave + Osc/Lock switch all on - oscillator tone with variable pulses controlled by rate and depth knobs.

so it seems that the dry signal isnt getting ring modded at all.  I've checked over my daughterboard and dont see any issues.

I am only running in and out and vco jacks, the carrier and depth LFO have been shorted.

I also took these readings.

IC1 - NE5532
1 - 3.9
2 - 3.9
3 - 3.9
4 - 0
5 - 3.8
6 - 3.6
7 - 3.6
8 - 7.9

IC2 TL074
1 - 4.6
2 - 4.6
3 - 4.6
4 - 9.3
5 - 4.6
6 - 4.6
7 - 4.6
8 - 4.6
9 - 4.6
10 - 4.6
11 - 0
12 - 4.6
13 - 4.6
14 - 4.6

IC3 TL074
1 - 4.6
2 - 4.6
3 - 4.6
4 - 9.28
5 - 4.4
6 - 6.9
7 - 1.5
8 - 7.4
9 - 4.6
10 - 4.6
11 - 0
12 - 4.6
13 - 4.6
14 - 4.6

IC4 TL074
1 - 4.6
2 - 4.6
3 - 4.6
4 - 9.28
5 - 4.3
6 - 6.9
7 - 1.5
8 - 7.4
9 - 4.6
10 - 4.6
11 - 0
12 - 4.6
13 - 4.6
14 - 4.6

any pointers in the right direction?

I'm sure you've done this, but did you turn up the drive control? If it's at zero you won't get any ring mod sounds...

And just remembered, I used pins and sockets for my daughterboard mounting and wasn't getting a good connection initially so I ended up soldering it in, you can check by holding the daughterboard in place.

Yeah, just tried that.... same problem.

Just to clarify the daughter board...the 4 inner headers are for circuit connection and the 4 outer are for support...is that correct? i've shorted the inner and outer on each leg

Quote from: dperry on October 25, 2020, 08:27:24 AM
Just to clarify the daughter board...the 4 inner headers are for circuit connection and the 4 outer are for support...is that correct? i've shorted the inner and outer on each leg

I think so but maybe someone can confirm?

Yes, I believe that the inner pads are connections for the circuit and the outer pads are for board mounting, they should not be shorted together.  I had some issues with that in my build as well.

Played around a bit more with the daughter board and....ITS WORKING!

I hadnt properly connected the inner and outer pads on the board.

It sounds gross! My Mrs hates it already  ;D ;D ;D

A bit of a bump for a question before I act upon a faulty assumption. I'm assembling one of these now from the same DeadEnd FX PCB board kit pictured. I'm assuming that the tabs on the LT44 transformers need to be clipped off before installing them, or else they will short out to the inner pins on the daughterboard which pass the signal. Is that what everyone else here has done, and/or did anyone else's troubles result from those pins making contact with the transformer casings? The geometry of it all looks a little dicey, so I want to proceed carefully before installing (and potentially bodging up) these trafos, as they are so difficult to get here in the States.

Have everything for this (DeadEndFX (https://pushermanproductions.com/product/dead-end-fx-guitar-pedal-pcb-string-ringer/)) except the B100K trimpot for the daughterboard.

Can't seem to find them anywhere? Only B100K potentiometers or 100k trimpots..

Quote from: lvckv on May 20, 2021, 01:42:59 PM
Have everything for this (DeadEndFX (https://pushermanproductions.com/product/dead-end-fx-guitar-pedal-pcb-string-ringer/)) except the B100K trimpot for the daughterboard.

Can't seem to find them anywhere? Only B100K potentiometers or 100k trimpots..

Almost ALL trimmers are Linear (B) taper.

Just make sure to get the correct package type as listed in the build document (in this case... the 3296W style)

Tayda has almost 400K available for you to buy  ;D

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3296w/100k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-cermet-25-turns-3296w.html

Ah, thanks.

The build doc I have doesn't mention a specific type that I can see? Just lists TRIM-B1 - B100K - TRIMMULTI. What are you reading to see 3296W?

Quote from: lvckv on May 20, 2021, 02:54:56 PM
What are you reading to see 3296W?

The exact part number is not listed however, the footprint of the trimmer suggests that it is the 3296W  8)

Quick question, should the audio transformer connect with the inner pins of the daughter board headers, or should it be insulated from them?

No

So mine has broken down :(

It now acts a distortion pedal - not the lovely octave fuzz, just a distortion.

The VCO output seems to have died.  Does anyone have the Markus K orignal build document? The Dead Astronaut build doc has a very hard to read schematic which is not helping me at all

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 20, 2021, 02:57:25 PM

Quote from: lvckv on May 20, 2021, 02:54:56 PM
What are you reading to see 3296W?

The exact part number is not listed however, the footprint of the trimmer suggests that it is the 3296W  8)

Could you help me with the other two trimmers? I'm quite new to all this and just setting up a source list for when I attempt to tackle this (after a few other pedals on the workbench).

I'm assuming this is a fit for the 1k https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1k-ohm-trimpot-variable-resistor-6mm.html but I'm not sure how to be sure. Googling around and searching eBay, Mouser, etc. for 1k Vishay trimmers hasn't gotten me very far.

As for the 100k, I've turned up these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT10LV10-104A2020-S?qs=pCZPOPZMYPi9fB5luKSZlA%3D%3D which look about right compared to the components footprint on the PCB. Is that correct?

Quote from: Bucket on December 15, 2021, 11:14:02 AM

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 20, 2021, 02:57:25 PM

Quote from: lvckv on May 20, 2021, 02:54:56 PM
What are you reading to see 3296W?

The exact part number is not listed however, the footprint of the trimmer suggests that it is the 3296W  8)

Could you help me with the other two trimmers? I'm quite new to all this and just setting up a source list for when I attempt to tackle this (after a few other pedals on the workbench).

I'm assuming this is a fit for the 1k https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1k-ohm-trimpot-variable-resistor-6mm.html but I'm not sure how to be sure. Googling around and searching eBay, Mouser, etc. for 1k Vishay trimmers hasn't gotten me very far.

As for the 100k, I've turned up these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT10LV10-104A2020-S?qs=pCZPOPZMYPi9fB5luKSZlA%3D%3D which look about right compared to the components footprint on the PCB. Is that correct?

I believe the values for this build are 5K and 100K. You listed a 1K above which is not on the build document.

As for the 'type' of trimmer needed, you will need the type I listed before which is 3296W. Here are some Tayda links to what you need:

5K ohm trimmer: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3296w/5k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-cermet-25-turns-3296w.html
100K ohm trimmer: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3296w/100k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-cermet-25-turns-3296w.html

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 15, 2021, 12:25:30 PM

Quote from: Bucket on December 15, 2021, 11:14:02 AM

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 20, 2021, 02:57:25 PM

Quote from: lvckv on May 20, 2021, 02:54:56 PM
What are you reading to see 3296W?

The exact part number is not listed however, the footprint of the trimmer suggests that it is the 3296W  8)

Could you help me with the other two trimmers? I'm quite new to all this and just setting up a source list for when I attempt to tackle this (after a few other pedals on the workbench).

I'm assuming this is a fit for the 1k https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1k-ohm-trimpot-variable-resistor-6mm.html but I'm not sure how to be sure. Googling around and searching eBay, Mouser, etc. for 1k Vishay trimmers hasn't gotten me very far.

As for the 100k, I've turned up these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT10LV10-104A2020-S?qs=pCZPOPZMYPi9fB5luKSZlA%3D%3D which look about right compared to the components footprint on the PCB. Is that correct?

I believe the values for this build are 5K and 100K. You listed a 1K above which is not on the build document.

As for the 'type' of trimmer needed, you will need the type I listed before which is 3296W. Here are some Tayda links to what you need:

5K ohm trimmer: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3296w/5k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-cermet-25-turns-3296w.html
100K ohm trimmer: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3296w/100k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-cermet-25-turns-3296w.html

Hm, now I'm even more confused  :o

The PDFs (1.2 and 1.3) both clearly list a 1k trimmer on the BOM and on the layout and it doesn't look like either of the trimmers you linked would fit. Am I looking at something different?

(https://i.postimg.cc/XpV1XM81/Capture.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpV1XM81)

Quote from: Bucket on December 15, 2021, 01:01:14 PM
Hm, now I'm even more confused  :o

The PDFs (1.2 and 1.3) both clearly list a 1k trimmer on the BOM and on the layout and it doesn't look like either of the trimmers you linked would fit. Am I looking at something different?

(https://i.postimg.cc/XpV1XM81/Capture.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpV1XM81)

Cannot see your pics on my computer however, I am looking at the Dead End FX build doc for the String Ringer right now (updated 24 November 2018) and in the BOM it lists TRIM 1 as 5K and TRIM2 as 100K for the main board. It lists TRIM-B1 as 100K for the daughter board. All 3 of them are going to require the 3296W form factor.

Are we talking about the same pedal build? From the same site??

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 15, 2021, 02:37:20 PM

Quote from: Bucket on December 15, 2021, 01:01:14 PM
Hm, now I'm even more confused  :o

The PDFs (1.2 and 1.3) both clearly list a 1k trimmer on the BOM and on the layout and it doesn't look like either of the trimmers you linked would fit. Am I looking at something different?

(https://i.postimg.cc/XpV1XM81/Capture.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpV1XM81)

Cannot see your pics on my computer however, I am looking at the Dead End FX build doc for the String Ringer right now (updated 24 November 2018) and in the BOM it lists TRIM 1 as 5K and TRIM2 as 100K for the main board. It lists TRIM-B1 as 100K for the daughter board. All 3 of them are going to require the 3296W form factor.

Are we talking about the same pedal build? From the same site??

We are looking at two different PDFs! I was looking at the two that had been posted here in this thread (v1.2 & v1.3). Of course I should have checked the Deadend page! Apologies for the confusion, now to start over on this shopping list...

I have been going through some old boxes that haven't been opened in years and I found a bit of a relic...

(https://i.postimg.cc/S2JG3XzB/IMG-20211217-114717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2JG3XzB)

This was etched a long while back and predates the dead end FX board by a few years. The traces have oxidised a little, but only to the point where it's a bit of a matte finish, nothing damaging or worrying.
So begins an old fashioned string ringer build!
I'm using 1m for R64, 464r resistors in place of 460r resistors, a VTL5C3 with a 5k trimmer and 680r resistor, and a UC3611 array in place of D5-D8.
Does that sound like a decent plan to those who have built this version? It doesn't line up exactly with the deadend BOM but I've stuck with the 1.3 BOM as my guide.
Any input warmly welcomed.

Over fourteen months later and I finally completed my build from the most recent DEFX boards, and I can't really answer soldersqueeze's questions, other than that I used the components as listed in the most recent build document from 2018 and everything works just as it seems it ought to (I didn't bother searching for 460Ω or similarly arcane or non-existent resistors and subbed in ordinary 470Ω ones instead to no ill effect).

However, my concerns about the installation of the transformers were warranted, as their chassis indeed can't be mounted to the daughterboard and do need to be proactively insulated from the connecting terminals which are directly under them or else they will short them together and the circuit won't work correctly. In this instance, a double layer of electrical tape under each transformer worked fine, and thus far the component leads seem to be strong enough to hold the trafos in place. But it is the only weak area of the PCB design, and perhaps a small note on the subject in the build doc might help (relative) newbies around my level (in my case, new at least to this level of assembly). It stands out because all the other components are clearly marked on the PCB and so nearly impossible to install incorrectly that even I got them right! I even considered designing and etching a custom alternative daughterboard, but I decided to persevere with what came with to save time, mental energy and additional frustration.

Otherwise, what a remarkable and ridiculous pedal! My friend for whom I built it played Wurlitzer piano through it when I first gave it to him, and he never got the same sound twice all evening...