(METER) Uni-T UT61A vs UT61E - HFE tester vs TRUE RMS?

[lowvolt]

Shopping out a new meter.  The Uni-T UT61 series seems like an excellent alternative at $45 - $60 over spending $200+/- for a Fluke.  I used Flukes for years, 10, 87, 12, 860B scopemeters, etc ..  I am aware of their excellence.  But these Uni-T meters seem like a fine 2nd meter, or perhaps good ones for new DIYers.  In my case it's a step above the Harbor Freight "$20 wonders" I've been using for a while.  I'm not in the same financial position or social station I once was, so I have what I have.

The Uni-T UT61"A" has all the ~stuffs~ ... AC/DC volts, mV, Amps, mA, Caps, hfe, Diode check, dedicated freq-meter (as well as freq on any of the V/A settings), backlit, great resolution, great construction, 3-year warranty, tough SMT construction, and so on (Bing them, there's a really nice 4-part video done by a South African dude that really puts them through it!).  They even come with this pretty cool little gadget that simplifies testing small parts.

Anyhow, the UT61A has hfe testing but is reads average levels.  The UT61E has no hfe but is True RMS.  The "E" model also offers a port and adaptor cable for computer display and comes with proprietary software for computer use. It's also compatible with "Ultra DMM" software.  The "A" is about $45+/- ... the "E" is about $55+/-.

A model - $44 with free shipping - from Hayward California. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-UNI-T-UT61A-Digital-Multimeter-Auto-Range-ut61a-AC-DC-test-meter-Buzze-/150796871675?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231c31a7fb

E model - $58.99 with free shipping - from China - http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT-61E-Modern-Digital-Multimeters-UT61E-/181053423515?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a279fff9b

There are also B, C, and D models, but they are packaged with temp probes and such.  The A and E seem best suited for pedal circuits and amps.

Here's part 1 of a four part video series about the E model. - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz6CYDRl1M8

Soooo ..... hfe or True RMS?  Or, maybe the better question is "A" or "E"?

Honestly, I've been doing fine with resistance readings using the Harbor Freight $20 wonders, but I need cap testing ability for sure.  The HF meters have hfe testers (not sure about how accurate they are, but they get it done).  Recently I bought a NEWCASON XC6013L dedicated cap tester that seems "ok" ($17 w/free shipping .. yes, that's seventeen bucks).  But that issue of "testing device confidence" creeps in sometimes when using that thing to test caps.  So I've been looking to back that up with a little better meter.

Would I be better off getting a dedicated cap tester of better design and construction than buying a little better multimeter for testing everything including hfe and caps?  The freq meter function has it's uses as well, right?

So ... "A" .. "E" .. or better cap tester?

In any case, which ever way I go, FLUKE probes (or equiv.) are a must.  I've found every "economy" meter to include probes that have pitted or otherwise less than good tips.  Not to mention PVC type insulation rather than silicone, which are far more flexible and pliable.

Thank you for tolerating this rambling post and my many questions, but I do need some assistance in this issue.

[PRR]

My opinion: "true RMS" has no use in audio.

Get the hFE test. In "well engineered" circuits the hFE is not critical BUT in many legacy designs it makes a difference. Testing hFE is swatting at haze: it varies with current etc and your tester never uses the same current as your pedal, but you can weed the greyhounds from the corgis.

At some point a sine-wave source should be on your list. When I was a boy we didn't have cap-testers. You pair the cap with a known resistor or coil and see how the frequency response falls. A sine-source is also good for seeing if a pedal's frequency rsponse is sane (not necessarily flat).

[lowvolt]

Hmmm .. sine wave source you say?  I HAVE A FULLY MODULAR SYnth with pretty nice VCOs with pretty ~clean~ outputs.  Any use in the situation you've described?

And THANKS ALOT (caps intended) for the suggestion about not needing RMS for audio work.  I kinda figured but wasn't exactly certain if some exotic need required RMS for some reason.  When I did main voltage work in the 90's RMS was necessary for a number of things, but in audio circuits I couldn't see a need.  Thanks for the verification.