Black Russian Big Muff trouble (General Guitar Gadgets kit)

[dmforte]

I am working on building a Black Russian Big Muff from a General Guitar Gadgets kit:

parts layout: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusb_lo.pdf
general layout: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_wiring.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

I am modifying this in no way, everything is from the kit, all component values are as stated in the above links.

Behavior: bypass works, when engaged LED is on and strong (battery reads 9.9V), but there is absolutely no sound.

My values are as follows:

Q1 (E - 1.0 V, B - 0.2, C- 5.9)
Q2 (E - 1.0 V, B - 0.2, C- 5.9)
Q3 (E - 0.9 V, B - 0.19, C- 5.
Q4 (E - 1.0 V, B - 0.2, C- 4)

D1 (Cathode - 0.2 V, Anode - 0.15)
D2 (Cathode - 0.15, Anode - 0.2)
D3 (Cathode - 0.2, Anode - 0.15)
D4 (Cathode - 0.15, Anode - 0.2)

My understanding: Now from reading over: http://www.geofex.com/fxdebug/newfx.htm , I gather that the voltage at the emitter should not be higher than that at the base, otherwise voltage will not flow over the transistor (in fact, I believe that is the point of a transistor).

Present situation: However, although I have established that this is occurring, and that it is wrong, I don't know what to do about it.

I have gone over all solder joints, the wiring diagram many times, the only thing aberrant I have found so far is that the value of the tone pot (should be a 100k linear) reads 50k.

Any help would be much appreciated!

[alparent]

Pictures would help us help you. 

[dmforte]

I roger your picture request: http://imgur.com/a/ANaPc

It is out of the box right now, but care is taken to see nothing shorts.

[LucifersTrip]

did you check the pinouts of the transistors? If E & B were reversed in your readouts above, those would make more sense.

what transistors are you using?

Did you breadboard this first?

[dmforte]

I did check the pinouts of the transistor, those are the correct readings. The transistors in use are 2N5089's. I did not breadboard as I felt the kit and PCB would be just a through it together kind of thing.

Some additional findings: Some resistors are the correct banding, but give the wrong reading. For example: R26 is banded Brown-Green-Black-Yellow and should be 1.5M Ohms. However, when I use my ohm meter it reads 0k if on bypass and about 16k if active. I studied the soldering around the resistor and nothing is wrong, no filaments connect things errantly. The following resistors share this feature of having correct bandings, but giving the wrong reading: R2, 9, 3, 14, 15, 21, 22.

What could cause this? If I start replacing resistors, is it reasonable to hope things will normalize?

[Pyr0]

Testing resistors in circuit will in most cases not give true readings, as you are probably testing them in parallel with some other resistance. Go by the colour code, or if you are still in doubt, unsolder one leg of the resistor to measure. Check for misplaced components and also check for dry/cold joints and solder bridges.

[LucifersTrip]

Testing resistors in circuit will in most cases not give true readings, as you are probably testing them in parallel with some other resistance

exactly...and since they are in parallel, the in-circuit resistances will always be the same or lower than out of circuit