How to prevent and fix solder bridges on stripboard/vero

[m4j0rbumm3r]

I consider myself a beginner at soldering still, even though most of my joints now turn out fine. I have looked up best practises and do my best to follow them.

But, with each stripboard build, I nevertheless spend a considerable amount of time trying to fix bridges across the strips that I made by accident. All the joints that go right take very little time, but the screw-ups take a lot of time to fix and are frustrating.
I know the thinnest bridges can be removed just by scoring between the strips with a knife. Thicker ones, where the solder has actually flowed, are more of a headache. I know this is just plain bad workmanship, but perhaps my hand isn't the steadiest and/or I just need more experience.

Is there any difference in the spacing between the copper strips with different brands, so that I could use a wider spacing? Should I avoid very densely populated lay-outs until I get better? Are there any 'secrets' to avoid these bridges, other than using solder sparingly?

Thanks

[tjdracz]

Recently completed a Big Muff on a stripboard and I know your pain and frustration with solder bridges. Haven't really seen stripboards with different spacings, they seem to be pretty standarized but I'm no expert here an maybe there are different variations.
On avoiding bridges - probably it's mainly a matter of experience, no secret here I suppose. Solder bridges mean you may put too much solder there or it is indeed an issue of steady hands, had those myself. Try also different positioning of soldering iron and solder, this was also my problem.
The way to remove those bridges that worked for me was to run soldering iron between the tracks, clearing the bridge. If there's too much solder,getting it out with desolering pump or braid can be quite helpful. Always check continuity with multimeter later if you are in doubt.

[IvIark]

I often end up with bridges, but running a hot soldering iron down the strip between tracks always sorts them out for me. It just cuts right through and leaves a clean gap.

[KazooMan]

It sounds like you are applying way too much solder.  Solder comes in a variety of diameters.  Try a spool of something in a thinner gauge.  That will give you better control of how much you are using.  I don't usually recommend Radio Shack, but their "Silver Bearing Solder" comes in a variety of gauges.  Get some skinny stuff.

Your iron can be a source of the problem as well.  How large is the tip?  If it is too big you will be heating adjacent spots on the board.  Also, be certain that your iron gets hot enough to make a joint quickly.  You should be able to touch the tip to the component, hit it with solder, and be done in seconds.  If you have to wait some time for the joint to heat up then this can also lead to adjacent strips heating up.

+1 for the desoldering braid.  You can get that at RS also.  

If you are serious about building many pedals in the future then investing in a good soldering station is a great idea.  Rapid heating, good temperature control, variety of tip sizes and shapes available, and much longer tip life than a cheap big box store pencil style iron.

Finally, if all the above fails, a Dremel tool with a very small burr tip can be used to carefully carve out the offending solder bridge.

[pappasmurfsharem]

It's usually not a big issue on my builds. I'll usually place the iron between both strips on the bridge and wait for both sides to liquefy. Then I will swift swipe away from the bridge location. Usually the surface tension of the solder will split it again.

[m4j0rbumm3r]

I have moved down to a thinner tip recently and that helped quite a bit. Haven't tried thinner solder wire yet, but it sounds like a good idea also. Didn't pay much attention to it when I bought my first set of tools and supplies. A beginner's mistake I only just stopped making is attempting a new joint with a bulge/blob on the end of the solder wire. Snipping that off first allows the flux to come out and gives me a lot more control, even if perhaps I'm using solder wire that is too thick.

I hadn't tried running the tip between the tracks to remove bridges, but I'll give it a try next time. I had tried reheating but then I was like "Now what? How do I split the blobs?".

I also found out just now that it really helps me when, besides fixating the board with clamps, I make sure I rest my wrists or arms on something as I solder the joint. This is probably obvious to most of you, but I wasn't doing that consistently before and it's helping me work much neater today. Most of my bridges were the result of jerky motions when removing the solder wire and tip from an otherwise decent joint.

All of your advice and a bit of practice will do the trick quickly I guess.

Thanks a bunch!

[KazooMan]

You mentioned snipping the tip off your solder to allow the flux to come out.  You can get a "flux pen".  It looks like a sharpie marker but is filled with liquid flux.  Pressing the tip against the work allows some flux to flow out into the felt tip.  Flux can make a huge difference in getting the solder to "wet" the joint, thus speeding up your soldering time and reducing the amount of solder you end up applying.

[m4j0rbumm3r]

p.s. Funny you replied to this thread Mark, as I'm actually busy building your Black 65 lay-out and I want this one to be really neat looking.

I'm building it with a footswitch for the boost enable, which I use a 4PDT for so that it also switches between two gain pots. This will give me a dedicated gain control for each 'channel', or so I hope 

Cheers

[pinkjimiphoton]

i LOVE desoldering braid. i use it any time i'm suspect, or any time i change a component value, if it gets too "gloppy" or if it bridges really bad.
it's almost the same as the braid inside a guitar cable, and is cheap enough.
can really be a lifesaver.
i used to use a solder sucker (and still do from time to time) but it can be messy and a pain.. the braid leaves nice clean rails, that have open holes and are tinned.
try it. i think you'll like it.

[Kesh]

i like a desoldering gun.

i also like to degrease the stripboard and everything including component legs, then getting them to wet then takes less time and solder

[Tony Forestiere]

i also like to degrease the stripboard and everything including component legs, then getting them to wet then takes less time and solder

+1 Most folks clean the board, but not the component leads. A little rubbing alcohol here goes a long way.

[Jdansti]

You mentioned snipping the tip off your solder to allow the flux to come out.  You can get a "flux pen".  It looks like a sharpie marker but is filled with liquid flux.  Pressing the tip against the work allows some flux to flow out into the felt tip.  Flux can make a huge difference in getting the solder to "wet" the joint, thus speeding up your soldering time and reducing the amount of solder you end up applying.

AMEN!  This will solve 99% of your problems. Get a flux pen. Any solder that tries to bridge will flow onto metal and not bridge across the gap between traces. It will also help make a nice well connected joint between the trace and the component lead. When I'm ready to solder a lead to a trace, I use the flux pen to paint a small amount of flux onto the component lead and the trace where I'll be soldering.  It just takes a second. Trust me- this will help a lot! When I've finished soldering all of the components, I use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush to clean off the residual flux.



If you still have a bridge, just run the tip of the iron between the traces as mentioned above. If you have a chisel or screwdriver tip, use the narrow edge to do this.

These work great to keep the tip clean. I poke the tip into one of these before I place the iron back into its holder very time.



Beyond all of that, here's a great soldering video.