here's a fuzz i hadn't seen yet...

[pinkjimiphoton]

an electro labs "fuzzbuzz"...apparently a pretty close rip off of the maestro fz1.....



more info here:

http://lectrolab.wordpress.com/guitars-etc/lectrolab-fuzz-pedal-yes/

[rousejeremy]

I like how it calls for 2 400v caps then a couple 6v caps. And running off a single AA.

[pinkjimiphoton]

if anyone decides to build it, mind the switching, cuz it's wrong according to the thread on the lectrolab website

[rousejeremy]

They have the switch grounding the output tip on that schematic. Weird.

[smallbearelec]

These were nasty-sounding, in a good way. Not hard to clone...you just need transistors that are leakier than you would use for anything else:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/FuzzE-One/FuzzE-One.htm

Regards
SD

[rousejeremy]

And so we have another implementation for leaky transistors. The Tonebender MKI being the only other I know about.

[reverberation66]

thanks jimi, that's awesome!  granted it's more or less a maestro fuzz but that's alright.  I wanna build it anyway, I have a little lectrolab tube amp, it's one of those "widow-maker" style amps that can theoretically electrocute you (I just marked the plug and always use the same socket so I know it's plugged in the right way...), it never has shocked me.  anyway, the amp sounds fantastic but only gets slightly dirty when cranked, seems like this would be the perfect complement.

[pinkjimiphoton]

you're welcome!

i started on a vero last nite, but was too tired and kept screwing it up, so i abandoned it for the moment.
if i get something worked up, i'll post it.

i'm planning on building this too, but with a few modifications. for one, mine is gonna probably run at 9v, tho steve daniel's method of dropping the voltage as on his fuzzyone project worked great for the heathkit ta28 fuzz.

also gonna simulate a more "fenderish" input, and use a 68k resistor inline instead of 100 k with the input.. i forget why fender used 68k, but i do remember it was something to do with frequency response.

[wavley]

you're welcome!

i started on a vero last nite, but was too tired and kept screwing it up, so i abandoned it for the moment.
if i get something worked up, i'll post it.

i'm planning on building this too, but with a few modifications. for one, mine is gonna probably run at 9v, tho steve daniel's method of dropping the voltage as on his fuzzyone project worked great for the heathkit ta28 fuzz.

also gonna simulate a more "fenderish" input, and use a 68k resistor inline instead of 100 k with the input.. i forget why fender used 68k, but i do remember it was something to do with frequency response.

Yep, usually a good balance between frequency response and blocking distortion when it's the grid of a tube.  The higher you go the less blocking distortion and highs, that's why you see higher values in higher gain amps.  It's also good practice to put the grid resistor right on the tube socket to take advantage of the Miller capacitance's effect on blocking distortion.  I don't know if it has the same effect on transistors, but if it starts farting out you might try going back up to the 100k.  There is a really great article on this whole thing when it comes to tubes http://www.aikenamps.com/BlockingDistortion.html

[Electron Tornado]

These were nasty-sounding, in a good way. Not hard to clone...you just need transistors that are leakier than you would use for anything else:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/FuzzE-One/FuzzE-One.htm

Regards
SD

How leaky is still acceptable, Steve?

[pinkjimiphoton]

you're welcome!

i started on a vero last nite, but was too tired and kept screwing it up, so i abandoned it for the moment.
if i get something worked up, i'll post it.

i'm planning on building this too, but with a few modifications. for one, mine is gonna probably run at 9v, tho steve daniel's method of dropping the voltage as on his fuzzyone project worked great for the heathkit ta28 fuzz.

also gonna simulate a more "fenderish" input, and use a 68k resistor inline instead of 100 k with the input.. i forget why fender used 68k, but i do remember it was something to do with frequency response.

Yep, usually a good balance between frequency response and blocking distortion when it's the grid of a tube.  The higher you go the less blocking distortion and highs, that's why you see higher values in higher gain amps.  It's also good practice to put the grid resistor right on the tube socket to take advantage of the Miller capacitance's effect on blocking distortion.  I don't know if it has the same effect on transistors, but if it starts farting out you might try going back up to the 100k.  There is a really great article on this whole thing when it comes to tubes http://www.aikenamps.com/BlockingDistortion.html

thanks, wavley...

i haven't been able to get into that site for years!! i just can't get in, dunno if i'm blocked or something..

EDIT: tried again... all i get is the index page redirecting to itself on every page. weird.

[Electron Tornado]

Yep, usually a good balance between frequency response and blocking distortion when it's the grid of a tube.  The higher you go the less blocking distortion and highs, that's why you see higher values in higher gain amps.  It's also good practice to put the grid resistor right on the tube socket to take advantage of the Miller capacitance's effect on blocking distortion.  I don't know if it has the same effect on transistors, but if it starts farting out you might try going back up to the 100k.  There is a really great article on this whole thing when it comes to tubes http://www.aikenamps.com/BlockingDistortion.html

Hmmm...could that be part of the reason the Heathkit TA-28 starts to cut out when the input cap is larger than about 0.01uf, and you're playing hard?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99037.0

[pinkjimiphoton]

that's i think cuz it sags, and HARD at 1.5 volts with a penlight battery.
if you use a 9v and use steve's diode reduction thing from his fuzz, that doesn't happen, even when driven with a 9v battery. but with 1.5 batts, i found it to totally suck..
one good hit, and it would shrink. once i switched to a higher v power supply, no more problem with it.


i DID notice tho that it doesn't play well with some amps... my ruby doesn't like that pedal at all. it oscillates if either battery is even slightly weak.

[Electron Tornado]

that's i think cuz it sags, and HARD at 1.5 volts with a penlight battery.
if you use a 9v and use steve's diode reduction thing from his fuzz, that doesn't happen, even when driven with a 9v battery. but with 1.5 batts, i found it to totally suck..
one good hit, and it would shrink. once i switched to a higher v power supply, no more problem with it.


i DID notice tho that it doesn't play well with some amps... my ruby doesn't like that pedal at all. it oscillates if either battery is even slightly weak.

I'm using Steve's method of diodes to drop the voltage, and I power it with a One Spot. With the input cap greater than 0.01uf, it will start to cut out when played hard, especially on lower notes. Happens regardless of the amp being used.

[LucifersTrip]

I love to see all those different 1A knockoffs...thanx for posting!

Is the only difference the output cap?




edit:

With the original 1.5V, this one does not sag if biased properly.  The AA batteries last forever, too. I've had the same batteries
in all of mine for over two years and they still light the pinhole leds.

[pinkjimiphoton]

electron,
thanks for that info... i gave mine away to a friend, so will keep it in mind when i build another one.

lucifer, i like the 9v option, cuz i can still burn holes thru my retinas with an led...   

[smallbearelec]

How leaky is still acceptable, Steve?

I have used devices for Q3 that leaked as much as a milliamp, Q2 maybe half that. Q1 is easier to set up if it Doesn't leak much.

[pinkjimiphoton]

was tinkering around with this circuit, and drew this up. added mark's stupidly wonderful tone control, steve's power supply diode dropping trick, power supply filtering, diode clipping, and a simple make up gain stage.
also converted to npn cuz i have wayyyyyyyy too many npn trannys, and pnp's can be a hassle i don't wanna deal with.
no idea if it will work, just the way my brain works... draw it up, then build it, then tweak the heck out of it.
i'll start cobbling it together, and see what happens, i'd expect it to change some.

but just for $#17$ and grins....

i'll try and draw up a schematic too...