Crybaby Wah Issues. (Pics Added)

Started by Codeman1407, October 30, 2013, 07:05:40 PM

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Codeman1407

Hey guys, Been using the site for a while now, and have always been able to find my answers by searching, but I havent had any such luck with this Crybaby GCB-95. It was given to me, and worked when i got it. I decided to mod it using this site :http://www.wah-wah.co.uk/ and also removed the buffer and made it true bypass. Now i'm sure the first thing people will ask is if the switch is wired up correctly, and I've triple checked it, it's right. I also checked the resistance of the resistor in line with the inductor, and the resistance was very low, (hopefully) meaning the inductor is fine.

The problem i'm having, is the pedal wont "Wah". It works in bypass, and although the level seems to drop a good bit, i get signal when the effect is on, but no wah. I filled out the troubleshooting guide so any help is MUCH appreciated!

1.What does it do, not do, and sound like? see above
2.Name of the circuit = Crybaby GCB-95
3.Source of the circuit (URL of schematic or project) = above
4.Any modifications to the circuit? Yes, see above
5.Any parts substitutions? see above.
6.Positive ground to negative ground conversion? No

7.Turn your meter on, set it to the 10V or 20V scale. Remove the battery from the battery clip. Probe the battery terminals with the meter leads before putting it in the clip. What is the out of circuit battery voltage? =>9.60

Now insert the battery into the clip. If your effect is wired so that a plug must be in the input or output jack to turn the battery power on, insert one end of a cord into that jack. Connect the negative/black meter lead to signal ground by clipping the negative/black lead to the outer sleeve of the input or output jack, whichever does not have a plug in it. With the negative lead on signal ground, measure the following:
Voltage at the circuit board end of the red battery lead = 9.60
Voltage at the circuit board end of the black battery lead = 0.00


Q1
C = 8.43
B = 1.03
E = 0.75

Q2
C= 8.11
B= 7.60
E= 7.29

I'm not very familiar with Wah pedals, but Q2 seems to have some very high readings.. Anyone have an idea what may be causing this?

DIMstompboxes

You don't mentioned you cut some trace....

Codeman1407

#2
I didn't cut any traces. I removed the six components that make up the buffer, therefore no cuts are necessary.

I also checked the power cap and diode, and the 4.7uF cap at the inductor, and i checked the pot. All are in working order. I've been battling this thing for almost 2 weeks. I just have no clue whats wrong with it.

Codeman1407

#3

Crybaby 3 by Codeman1407, on Flickr]


Crybaby 2 by Codeman1407, on Flickr


Crybaby 1 by Codeman1407, on Flickr

There's some photos. Anyone see anything completely out of the ordinary?

italianguy63

The switch looks right.  I see a couple resistors there with some pretty high values that don't look right to me.  There are stock schematics for the crybaby on the Internet.  I don't know if we are able to post them on here because of copyright laws.  But the values on the the resistor on the bottom left, the one a little %^&*-eyed above it, and the one in the meg-ohm (green band) next to the reddish cap in the middle all look suspect.  Did this work after the values were changed??
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

Codeman1407

#5
The bottom left is a 330k replacing the 470k ("gain and bass response" mod.)

The one above it is the only 47k i had, replacing the 68k ("Volume" mod). I did this mod after the others, and it didnt work either way.

the green band one is a 1k8 replacing the 1k5 (Midrange mod)

the last change i made was the 68k replacing the 33k inductor resistor (Vocal Mod)

All mods were found here: http://www.wah-wah.co.uk under "DIY Resources - Wah Circuit Mods". I did all of these mods at once, along with removing the buffer components, and the new switch for true bypass. I guess i need to swap these back out one by one and see what happens.


disabled_shredder

You have the new circuit in wire but didn't make the new ground wire where the resistor went below the buffer board. Check the sight again I have done this dozens of times. You need 2 wires where the buffer was one on the top I the resistor and on on the leg of the trannie also replace all electrolytic caps 95% of the time that fixes he problem. Let me know what happens after you fellow the page and compare to your diagram. Ill take some photos of mine and post so you can see exactly how it works.
The wild man with a loaded gun and no plan. I'm not held back by rules, just don't know which ones to follow

DIMstompboxes

Quote from: Codeman1407 on October 31, 2013, 07:23:26 AM
I didn't cut any traces. I removed the six components that make up the buffer, therefore no cuts are necessary.

I also checked the power cap and diode, and the 4.7uF cap at the inductor, and i checked the pot. All are in working order. I've been battling this thing for almost 2 weeks. I just have no clue whats wrong with it.

Hmm I read in the (picture) you need to cut that trace when you want to remove the buffer and solder new wire to emitter
picture indicates "CUT HERE - solder new wire here if removing buffer"


Codeman1407

Just got it working. You only have to cut the trace if you dont remove the components of the buffer from the board.

The problem was, as italianguy63 said, a resistor value. I had a 330K in a place i should've had a 330ohm. I replaced it with a 470ohm (stock value) and it worked.

Thanks for all your input guys!

Codeman1407

Quote from: disabled_shredder on October 31, 2013, 05:06:35 PM
You have the new circuit in wire but didn't make the new ground wire where the resistor went below the buffer board. Check the sight again I have done this dozens of times. You need 2 wires where the buffer was one on the top I the resistor and on on the leg of the trannie also replace all electrolytic caps 95% of the time that fixes he problem. Let me know what happens after you fellow the page and compare to your diagram. Ill take some photos of mine and post so you can see exactly how it works.

I had it wired like that at first, then found another diagram that carried the new ground off the pot, which is how i have it wired up, and it works. just FYI.

italianguy63

I run a ground for the LED mod.  Then, I jumper the ground across the 3P2T switch.  Makes it easy and clean.  I sent you an e-mail with some info.  Glad you got it working!  MC
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

DIMstompboxes

Quote from: Codeman1407 on October 31, 2013, 05:41:31 PM
Just got it working. You only have to cut the trace if you dont remove the components of the buffer from the board.

The problem was, as italianguy63 said, a resistor value. I had a 330K in a place i should've had a 330ohm. I replaced it with a 470ohm (stock value) and it worked.

Thanks for all your input guys!

Happy ending, thanks also to you  :icon_smile: