The Phase 90 chursed...

[Focalized]

Also just taking some time looking at your layout it. Seems very wrong.

Just one point first, I'm confused about your 9v connection. Does it have two connections? The main where you have a black solder pad connecting to pin 1 of IC1, hitting the two upper left 10k resistors and jumpered to one of the 50nf caps.

Also do you have the output jumpered to two rows?

OR, I think you're drawing in how you loop the wires through the board? Maybe this.

Yeah I think I see that with the layout. I won't delete though, just a part of my observation.

[Ark Angel HFB]

Why did you convert the layout? I mean that's ok to do but it'll make it very hard for someone to look for a problem visually. Meaning one would have to trace the verified layout to verify yours first, then check out your build.

What's going on with IC2? How you used a IC socket then used the DIP sockets with the transistors.

Sorry I can't help really, a bit too hard to tell what's going on. I want to help as I don't get to often but having built the layout twice with one fail and a success I thought I'd chime in somehow.

Tip on the jumpers, don't worry about stripping insulated wire for the smaller jumps. Just use some component clippings. Easy bend and solder.

I always make a new vero of vero I find and add proper power filtering..., just a 100ohm and a 220uF cap. That is the only change.
the double socket is because I'm a moron and solder the first socket in on row to high... so instead of trying to fight to get 8 solder joints hot... I just made the two socket for the q's 4 long and used the extra hole for the IC.

I've stupidly always solder sockets on last... so by the time I realized the mistake I didn't really want to worry about it to much... on the upside those two open socket in that row shouldn't hurt anything and I don't think that is the problem.

[Ark Angel HFB]

Also just taking some time looking at your layout it. Seems very wrong.

Just one point first, I'm confused about your 9v connection. Does it have two connections? The main where you have a black solder pad connecting to pin 1 of IC1, hitting the two upper left 10k resistors and jumpered to one of the 50nf caps.

Also do you have the output jumpered to two rows?

OR, I think you're drawing in how you loop the wires through the board? Maybe this.

Yeah I think I see that with the layout. I won't delete though, just a part of my observation.

I use the pad to signal a hole be drilled in the board to loop the wire so no strain is placed on the solder joint once the wire is feed through the whole.

Ever built a board and after moving stuff around trying to fit it in a box, a wire break or a joint break... I did... ONCE...

I said never again and started making sure that I always had room on a board to drill extra holes and feed the cables through.

[Focalized]

Yeah I see that, I've use the pre-drilled corner holes in Vero board to route wires.

Hope you get this up sometime. I used the layout and after my second try it really sounds nice with matched transistors. I used the trimmer outboard as it gave a good 20-30% range that darkened and lightened the tone of the phase sweep. Might not be equal in every build. Phase is my favorite effect next to a wah. I was about to buy a kit before I got it working.

[pinkjimiphoton]

plz don't judge me... it was clean and neat once... T_T

To make larger... right click and hit open in new tab... that will give them to you really big.

I didn't have a 15uF cap so I paralleled a 10uF and a 4.7uF...

bro, you realize the chip on the right isn't plugged into the socket right right? look at that picture. if it's been like that unnoticed (i've done similar) that could be an issue!!

[cortezthekiller]

@pinkjimiphoton : I noticed that in the layout the top right IC is one row lower than the top left IC. There are sockets below the IC socket on the top right that the chip is plugged into as well, so it should be fine (if not a little strange).

[armdnrdy]

The OP explains in reply #21 that he made a mistake which resulted in the "Macgyver" socket hack.

I still think that he's looking for a bad cut or solder bridge which is pinning the LFO at Vref instead of allowing it to oscillate.

[Ark Angel HFB]

The OP explains in reply #21 that he made a mistake which resulted in the "Macgyver" socket hack.

I still think that he's looking for a bad cut or solder bridge which is pinning the LFO at Vref instead of allowing it to oscillate.

Which IC should be oscillating... using my vero.

[armdnrdy]

According to the Sabrotone link that you supplied, this vero is based off of the Tonepad schematic.

The Tonepad schematic shows the LFO as IC1b  pins 5, 6, & 7.

EDIT:
Taking a closer look at the Sabrotone layout and the Tonepad schematic, it appears as if Mr. Sabro changed the component designation for the LFO and didn't supply a schematic.

The LFO on the Sabro Vero is IC 2

[Ark Angel HFB]

I'm trying to get reading in every resistor to check and see if something is off... having a hard time getting steady readying with my multi-meter.

the circuit isn't pluged in... and all Qs and ICs have been pulled... but when I try to test most of the resistances around IC2 and IC3... the value starts at one number and the climes.

Is this some weirdness with to do with the zenar Diode or is the curse spreading?

[armdnrdy]

You can't get an accurate reading of a lot of resistors "in circuit" unless you unsolder and lift one leg. (don't lift your leg....the resistor's leg!)

I'm still betting on an uncut trace or a solder bridge. The voltages of the ICs look OK accept for the LFO.

[armdnrdy]

I'm trying to get reading in every resistor to check and see if something is off... having a hard time getting steady readying with my multi-meter.

the circuit isn't pluged in... and all Qs and ICs have been pulled... but when I try to test most of the resistances around IC2 and IC3... the value starts at one number and the climes.

Is this some weirdness with to do with the zenar Diode or is the curse spreading?

There are these things called capacitors that are still in the circuit that along with other resistors will give you false readings.

[psychedelicfish]

Get a sharp knife and run it between the tracks, and you should be able to feel even the smallest solder bridges.

[Ark Angel HFB]

Get a sharp knife and run it between the tracks, and you should be able to feel even the smallest solder bridges.

I took the solder iron put a pencil thin tip on it and ran it between the tracks I honestly don't think it is a solder birdge... I've just gone over the track so many times...

I know there is a problem but if it isn't the placement... and it isn't the chips or Qs... then idk what it is...

the only other problem I can think of is that in resolder over and over a jumper or part lead slide out and is no longer really connected but with the Zener Diode in teh circuit I can't get steady reading from my muilt meter to find if a joint is bad...

What I might just build a new one. If that vero is verified then everything should be ok...

Is there a chance the power filtering I added is somehow the problem?

Also is it not weird that the rate knob does nothing... I mean I guess it would be a sign something is wrong with the LFO. Everything seems to be working fine other than the LFO. The circuit passes signal... the sound is not dull or muted... the trimmer pot effects the sound... but there is no oscillation / phase effect.

[adm66gal]

I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I'm having the exact same problem. Did you ever figure out what it was?

[adm66gal]

I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I'm having the exact same problem. Did you ever figure out what it was?

Scratch that, I had a 15n cap to ground on the LFO instead of a 15u (pounds head on computer). Works as advertised!

[bluebunny]

I had a 15n cap to ground on the LFO instead of a 15u (pounds head on computer).

Initiation complete.  Welcome to the nut-house.