passive tone control, true bypass with led using dpdt?

[ode2no1]

will this work as a passive tone control just like on a guitar without loading down the signal while in bypass? i have a 57 reissue strat i don't want to modify (even if it is only moving one wire on the selector switch). the bridge is in desperate need of a tone knob. i figure i would just need to run wires from tip to tip and sleeve to sleeve on the in/out jacks. no need to connect the -9v from the DC jack to the sleeves right?

[GibsonGM]

There's a better way to do this.  I would use some kind of ACTIVE tone control.  Doesn't have to be complex, just a buffer, and you could put the SWTC behind it.  Tailored to your own tastes.    This way, you will have weird issues, I think. Your in/out are connected together, after all!

Guitar tone circuits suck, to put it mildly...they're a drag, literally.    A tone with a buffer in front of it isn't.    If you do this, look up how the guitar tone is done and do likewise, remembering that the box must be grounded, too (the pot case is grounded).   

A new (different) tone cap in the guitar itself might get you closer to where you want to be, too. 

[ode2no1]

i forgot to mention that this would probably be right after a fulltone fat boost in my pedal chain, so loss wouldn't be too much of an issue. assuming it comes after a buffered effect, it'll work out ok, right?

[GibsonGM]

What I don't like is the 'tip of input & output jacks' part, Ode....that is 'tone sucking'!    Why don't you just add a tone control to the fulltone boost?  You could have it on a footswitch so you could take it in/out of the chain!   

Search for "SWTC" on here....

[ode2no1]

the reason the tip of input and output jacks are connected together is cause basically, as in a guitar, the tone pot just leaches off of the hot signal. the whole idea behind this was to see if i could get it boxed up with an led using just a dpdt...but you're right....seriously sucks tone. i had a trimpot on a breadboard with a cap to ground connected to a true bypass box and yeesh, switching the simple tone knob in was awful. i DID have a 50k pot there rather than a higher value, so that may have made it worse than it could be, but yeah, massive tone sucking. i'd add a tone pot to the fat boost clone i made, but it's all built up and was a tight fit as it is. i'll shoot for a swtc with a buffer like you suggested. thanks man.

[GibsonGM]

the reason the tip of input and output jacks are connected together is cause basically, as in a guitar, the tone pot just leaches off of the hot signal. the whole idea behind this was to see if i could get it boxed up with an led using just a dpdt...but you're right....seriously sucks tone. i had a trimpot on a breadboard with a cap to ground connected to a true bypass box and yeesh, switching the simple tone knob in was awful. i DID have a 50k pot there rather than a higher value, so that may have made it worse than it could be, but yeah, massive tone sucking. i'd add a tone pot to the fat boost clone i made, but it's all built up and was a tight fit as it is. i'll shoot for a swtc with a buffer like you suggested. thanks man.

No problem - these questions come up a lot, and once you understand WHY such a thing isn't so great, you kinda cross a milestone.  I used to try the same things )   

If you buffer/box up a SWTC with your personal modifications, you have an opportunity there to do whatever you want - add a bright switch, things like that.  Give it some thought, you might make the ultimate Strat box!  Personally, I prefer a mid boost!   If you do more than SWTC, you probably want to have an input buffer and a simple gain stage after to recover from the insertion loss.    TL072.