HAO Rust Driver Clone problems

[Stormleader]

Hey gents, I've got problem on my hands. I built a HAO rust driver clone from this schematic ( http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/hao-rust-driver-from-updated-schematic.html ) and I can't seem to get it to work. I've quadruple checked everything, and I couldn't find anything stupid that I did, so I've come to those with more experience than I.

The voltages with the IC out of the socket are as follows:
Pin 1: 0
Pin 2: 9
Pin 3:0
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 9
Pin 6: 0
Pin 7: 0
Pin 8: 9

Now as little as I know about IC circuits, it seems that 3 and 5 are for sure messed up, they should both be 4.5 V right? The only part substitution I made was that when I ordered the parts I accidentally bought a bipolar 47uF electrolytic cap instead of a normal one... This shouldn't matter at all though, right?

I really appreciate any and all help!

[rousejeremy]

Make sure you cut all the traces on the board and check your jumpers. Nothing about those voltages is good.

[Pojo]

Indeed, also measure the bottom row on the vero. Are you getting 4.5V there?

[Stormleader]

Doh, found a bridge under the 100K voltage drop resistor. Fixed that and pin 5 is reading 4.5V. Pin 3 is still 0, is this correct? I dropped the IC in and it sounds pretty decent.

[duck_arse]

the circuit shown here (it takes forever for tagboard to load here, and then I can't see a circuit or a link usually):

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/PRSplaya/DIY/MrG_Rusty4.png

says that pin 3 and 5 are connected together, and to the Vref line, so they should both be at the same voltage at the very least, 4V5 or not.

looks like you're still looking for something.

[Stormleader]

Holy thread resurrect batman!

Update on the Rust Driver: I got it working and voltages reading correctly back in October. Then the DPDT toggle switch I got from Mammoth broke to where it just... squished...
Anyways, the project got sidelined for a while due to school. I recently rehoused some pedals for a guy in Canada and while I was ordering his stuff I ordered another DPDT toggle. I installed it tonight, and found some interesting things.

1) Only one position changes the tone, the 47nF position. This makes it sound like a blanket is over the amp, more or less what I was expecting. The other position (Which is the 1nF) does absolutely nothing.
2) Unity gain is at about 4 o'clock, nearly maxed out.

Neither of these things seem right to me. I didn't play it a ton back when I got it working, but I don't recall having to max the volume to pull unity. I don't see anything obviously shorting anything, and I've gone over things with a multimeter and everything appears to check out OK. Any ideas? I plan to really dig into it in a bit, but if there's something obvious I should check I'd like to know heehee.

Thanks for the help guys! I appreciate it greatly.

EDIT: I should also mention that I've tried un-soldering the tone switch and that had no effect. I'm also using a non-polarized cap for the 47uF electro. Surely that shouldn't have an effect on anything, should it?

[Stormleader]

I hate to bump my own thread.... But I still can't figure this one out. All the IC voltages are fine and it sounds good, it's just super low output, to achieve unity volume I have to nearly max the volume pot. No bridged vero tracks, and no wires touching where they shouldn't. I've tried two different IC's that I have on hand, and both of them are the same in regards to the low volume... It's pretty cool as is, but I just hate leaving it like this because I know it should be better heehee.

[duck_arse]

pinkjimi had some problems w/ low volume recently. turned out to be his pot. potentiometer, I should clarify. he ended up shorting the hot lug to the wiper to see if he got more, and lo, he did. you could try that with the volume pot, and if yours has the swtc, you could try bridge hot and cold terminals instead.

[Stormleader]

Thanks for your reply!
I shorted the output of the circuit straight to the wiper, and alas, still no change. The pot does function correctly, it just doesn't seem to have much to work with in the first place... Is it possible that I managed to get two super low-output IC's from two totally different suppliers? Is that even possible? haha. There's no weird buzzing or popping, and the tone seems right from the clips I've heard, so I think the circuit is working as should... hah, weirdness for sure. If I can't get this working how I want, not a big deal...

[duck_arse]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/PRSplaya/DIY/MrG_Rusty4.png

is your circuit different to the one above in any way? can you post some photos of your board? it's only opamps, there should be buckets of stuff out the end.

[Stormleader]

I'm not entirely sure that that is the correct circuit you've got there heehee. This is closer: http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Ivan_Trubnikov/RustDriverproject.jpg but it's still not exactly the same. The layout that I used (the tagboard link) is based off of an updated schematic that I can't seem to find.

Oh, here's the schematic!: http://....org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=219&p=182754&hilit=HAO+rust+driver+schematic#p182754 (it's FSB, which apparently gets censored out heehee.)
The layout I used is also on the next page.

EDIT: Whoops! I just noticed you'd posted that same schematic back when I first had issues. How did I not catch that! Sorry if I've had you looking off the incorrect one the whole time, my bad!

[duck_arse]

orrright, on both those schems, r7 and r8 form a voltage divider at the opamp output. if you increase r8, or decrease r7, just like in a volume control, your 500kB  VR will have a larger signal to start with. depending on your current r7 value, you might not get much extra.

and that tacked on the end switch w/ caps over at the fsb circuit would operate more consistently if it was attached at the top of VR instead of the wiper.