best type of resistors and capacitors?

Started by nognow, June 30, 2014, 08:45:25 AM

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nognow

I always thought carbon comp resistors and paper-in-oil capacitors are the "holy grail" of audio/guitar application. Is it actually true?
if not ,which type is the best?

Thanks! 

Seljer

"holy grail" in the sense of "mojo" in the true sense of the word, i.e. because Hendrix/Clapton/<insert guitar hero here> used a <insert pedal/amp from the 60s here> made with those components thats the only way to get a perfect recreation of the sound.

Modern carbon film resistors are quieter and more stable than any old carbon comp resistors. Same applies to modern film and electrolytic capacitors, if you buy something newly made in Germany/Japan you can't go wrong. There are diminishing returns in spending extravagant money on fancy "audiophile" or "vintage" capacitors. You generally want to avoid ceramic capacitors in audio circuits because of microphonics and non-linearity (whether its audible is a circuits that is already distorting anyway is another debate).

The old components look cool though :D

bool

>>> something newly made in Germany/Japan

Beware the Axis powers!

tca

The ones that match the written label.

Cheers.
"The future is here, it's just not evenly distributed yet." -- William Gibson

seedlings

Quote from: nognow on June 30, 2014, 08:45:25 AM
which type is the best?


The best resistors and capacitors are on your board, in a pedal that you use often, and with each jam a sly grin grips the corner of your mouth, yet you can't even remember what brand they were.   ;)

CHAD

petemoore

 I had a tough time finding a difference in boosters and compressors, other sensative inputs...I get great service from parts that meet tolerance/specs, 9v efx are low ''tension'', less thermally reactive than say amplifier.
And for the most part chose to use quality parts after tiring from mojo-testing @9v, spending ''extra'' on magnetic/coil type items.
Some of the least expensive components acquired mojo over the course of decades [by design or accident], I read a report on a Fender amp in which all the 'cheap' components were pulled, and the ''precision replacement'' experiment result summary was the amp sounded brittle without the 'low spec' parts. 
  But that's HV amp condidtions.
  The conditions of the placement-scenario [what the parts are expeceted to do] quite often dwarf differences [such as in distortion circuits etc., where the distortion in signal content makes component composition infinitecimally minute...in ''most'' cases].
I studied a bit about it and tried 'mojo-ing' up some builds for a while, and decided I like the sound of selected salvaged components [mostly film caps and any resistors].
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

nognow

Quote from: petemoore on June 30, 2014, 12:26:39 PM
I had a tough time finding a difference in boosters and compressors, other sensative inputs...I get great service from parts that meet tolerance/specs, 9v efx are low ''tension'', less thermally reactive than say amplifier.
And for the most part chose to use quality parts after tiring from mojo-testing @9v, spending ''extra'' on magnetic/coil type items.
Some of the least expensive components acquired mojo over the course of decades [by design or accident], I read a report on a Fender amp in which all the 'cheap' components were pulled, and the ''precision replacement'' experiment result summary was the amp sounded brittle without the 'low spec' parts. 
  But that's HV amp condidtions.
  The conditions of the placement-scenario [what the parts are expeceted to do] quite often dwarf differences [such as in distortion circuits etc., where the distortion in signal content makes component composition infinitecimally minute...in ''most'' cases].
I studied a bit about it and tried 'mojo-ing' up some builds for a while, and decided I like the sound of selected salvaged components [mostly film caps and any resistors].
Quote from: seedlings on June 30, 2014, 11:51:30 AM
Quote from: nognow on June 30, 2014, 08:45:25 AM
which type is the best?


The best resistors and capacitors are on your board, in a pedal that you use often, and with each jam a sly grin grips the corner of your mouth, yet you can't even remember what brand they were.   ;)

CHAD
Quote from: tca on June 30, 2014, 11:42:58 AM
The ones that match the written label.

Cheers.
Quote from: bool on June 30, 2014, 09:52:16 AM
>>> something newly made in Germany/Japan

Beware the Axis powers!
Quote from: Seljer on June 30, 2014, 09:00:48 AM
"holy grail" in the sense of "mojo" in the true sense of the word, i.e. because Hendrix/Clapton/<insert guitar hero here> used a <insert pedal/amp from the 60s here> made with those components thats the only way to get a perfect recreation of the sound.

Modern carbon film resistors are quieter and more stable than any old carbon comp resistors. Same applies to modern film and electrolytic capacitors, if you buy something newly made in Germany/Japan you can't go wrong. There are diminishing returns in spending extravagant money on fancy "audiophile" or "vintage" capacitors. You generally want to avoid ceramic capacitors in audio circuits because of microphonics and non-linearity (whether its audible is a circuits that is already distorting anyway is another debate).

The old components look cool though :D

Thanks! :icon_lol:

amptramp

A tolerable article on capacitors for guitar use showing what they actually look like:

http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/auditioning-tone-capacitors-part-ii-1

Note that the exalted bumblebee and Sprague Black Beauty capacitors that are so prized among some people are regarded as a nuisance among those of us who restore antique radios.  They tend to split along the seam allowing humidity and moisture to get in.  Beware that ceramics can be microphonic so that listening with a headphone amplifier may give entirely different results from playing live.  I don't necessarily subscribe to their statements about the effect on tone, but it does show that some differences exist.  Of the ones shown, the Orange Drops are considered to be excellent as are the tropical fish caps (which I use in radio restorations).  I have used yellow-body ones also and have a prized collection of Vitamin Q capacitors.  Silver mica is useable for accurate capacitance values up to 5000 pF.  Styrene (or Styroflex) capacitors have a low temperature rating (which is not an issue in a guitar) but are usually available in tight tolerances - just don't use too much solder too close to the body or they will melt and change value.

For a typical radio restoration, see here:

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=130714&hilit=Marconi+252FM

trjones1

The best resistors are whatever is lying around.  As for caps, everyone has their preferences.  I've only found one capacitor that I like more than the rest, but it's a secret.

darron

Quote from: bool on June 30, 2014, 09:52:16 AM
>>> something newly made in Germany/Japan

Beware the Axis powers!

That's a clever answer. I'll remember that one!
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

StephenGiles

At 9v .......no difference at all, use any type to hand!
"I want my meat burned, like St Joan. Bring me pickles and vicious mustards to pierce the tongue like Cardigan's Lancers.".

MrStab

the best stuff HAS to be platinum-plated, and be so carbon that it can be measured by the carat.

or, jokes aside, 1% metal film resistors and 5-10% polyester caps are what i go for, to minimise variability.
people in the past didn't have blue LEDs or Large Hadron Colliders, so i have no time for their mojo legacy.
Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

amptramp