first time build:advice signa drive clone

[thecakeguru]

Hey guys, im looking at getting into pedal building. A have a little bit of basic electrical know how, can solder, and have worked on small misc. projects before. (not a total noob, lol).
Decided to build my first guitar pedal, and didnt want to build a kit. Im a little ambitious but I dont think this circuit is terribly difficult. First off, veroboard, never used the stuff, but read enough on it over the last few days that im fairly certain I understand it. Ive compiled a list of parts that I have read from the schematic, and think I have everything for the circuit itself. I'll post a pic of the schematic as well.. Could you guys offer me some help/advice and proof read my parts list to make sure I have it all covered?

Parts:

1 IC RC4558P

2 Diode 1N914

1 Diode 1N4001

2 LED T-1 3mm, Diffused, Colors   

1 DPDT (Center OFF)   



1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm Split Shaft   
(500K Linear)   

1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm Split Shaft   
(2K Linear)   

1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm Split Shaft   
(100K Linear)   

1 IC, Socket, Machine-Pin, Mill-Max 8-pin   

4 Metal Film(1K)

8 Metal Film(10K)   

2 Metal Film(620K)

1 Metal Film(2.2 Meg)

1 Metal Film(4.7K)

1 Metal Film(100 Ohms)

1 Metal Film(220 Ohms)   

2 Metal Film(2.2K)

2 Topmay TMC05 (.1 mf)

2 Topmay TMC05 (.22 mf)   

2 Electrolytic, Radial 50V Non-Polarized (1 mf)   

1 Electrolytic, Radial 25V (10 mf)   


1 Electrolytic, Radial 25V (47 mf)   

1 Electrolytic, Radial 25V (100 mf)   

1 Xicon Ceramic Capacitors (51 pf)   

2 1/4 in. Mono jacks

1 DC Power Jack, All-Plastic, Unswitched   

1 CIC Blue 3PDT   

1 Stripboard - Velleman ECL1/2

and then a few misc items like knobs, enclosure, wire, shrink wrap, ect.

The part im not sure on are the caps, I want to make sure those are right, especially that non polarized cap. Any input guys? Does it look like I got a pretty good list for this project?

The Schematic: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/cmat-mods-signa-drive.html

[R.G.]

A vero/tagboard/perfboard layout is not a schematic, and is very much more difficult ot see how the circuit works from.

[thecakeguru]

I cant seem to find an actual schematic, just the vero layout. Everything was labeled so I just compiled a list of what I saw. The one thing im not sure of is what to use for the 1uf caps.

[nate77]

With pedals, the main factor in cap type is typically the value. It will often dictate the type used. I stick with box type poly caps for the vast magority, however smaller values (in the pf range) are going to be ceramic and the larger values (above 1uf) will be electrolytic, however I use tantalum if possible if used in the signal path. 1uf is the right on the cusp of poly and electrolytic. You can use non-polarized caps anywhere that polarized are called for, but as stated earlier, available values are the deciding factor. 1uf poly caps are easily available, will last longer than electrolytics and are largely considered to have a smoother sound profile. So the moral of the story is; for 1uf, use unpolarized poly caps. Welome to the forum and enjoy your all consuming new hobby.

[thecakeguru]

Thank you! exactly the info I was looking for.. You said you use tantalam? Why is that?

[nate77]

Tantalum caps are a bit more expensive than electrolytics but they have a much longer life span ( which may or may not be a factor in most pedal builds ) but are readily available up to 10uf and when used in the signal path tend to produce a thicker and less brittle tone. Unfortunately, I couldn't tell you exactly why, but in my experience and from what I've digested on these forums from the gurus around here is true. When I started my path in pedal building and such I modded a number of mass production pedals (boss, crybaby wahs, etc) and simply replacing the cheaper components in the signal path with better quality parts is common practice. That's when I first noticed tantalum caps producing a fatter and richer tone. In some circuits like the univox superfuzz, there are 10 polarized caps in the signal path (all 10uf) and the one I built with all tantalums as opposed to the one I built with all electros is vastly superior. The most common advice is experiment and see what you like, but that is my experience and seems to be the consensus of most.