Drilling veroboard without chipping?

[runmikeyrun]

I'm having some trouble drilling holes in veroboard for plastic standoffs.  It chips like crazy.  I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.  Any tips?  My bits are new, standard point. 


Ham fisting my way through one build to the next since 2003. 

[digi2t]

What size bit are you using?
Is it sharp?
What speed are you drilling at?
Phenolic or epoxy vero?
Hand or drill press?
Are you using a backing block?

[GibsonGM]

Quick Tip:  use perfboard    

[runmikeyrun]

What size bit are you using?
5/32"

Is it sharp?
Brand new

What speed are you drilling at?
Tried full speed and slower speeds

Phenolic or epoxy vero?
Stuff from pedal parts plus, tan.  I did pick up some epoxy board from small bear but haven't used it yet.

Hand or drill press?
Hand drill

Are you using a backing block?
Drilling against my workbench, MDF. 

I guess I should add that in addition to pedals I also build vintage motorcycles, so I am well versed with the use of tools and drilling.  I can't seem to figure this out though.  I've tried drilling through an existing hole and drilling between holes with no difference.  It doesn't seem to matter if I drill from the copper side or the top.



Ham fisting my way through one build to the next since 2003. 

[EBK]

Try masking tape.

[Fndr8875]

which side of board are u drilling from? what kind of stripboard are you using , the cheap tayda stuff? Actual brand name vero board fiberglass epoxy? There is a huge difference in these type materials. Ive used every kind that i can find off amazon, which have been the Fr4 fiberglass stuff and ther veroboard brand is really tough compared to the taydal stuff, Id mark where you want your stand off and use a step smaller, then go up. Also whatsize is the board ur building? bc most or the stripboard ive used has holes in corner thst are stand off sized. at worst you could leave the board a tad bigger thsn you need and least have 1 stabd  off. Ive been doing this for over a year and im pretty terrible at it still, if you can build motorcycles , but cant get a standoff drill wo ruining your board something weird is going on with the type/quallity of board or drill/drill bit your using. Thats the best advice i can offer you. hope you get it figured out.

[runmikeyrun]

I've tried drilling from both sides.  I am currently using the tan stripboard from pedalpartsplus.  I have an epoxy board from small bear that's next to use.  I'm building on a small board, maybe 8x15 so I have to drill my own holes.  My bits are new, dewalt brand.


Ham fisting my way through one build to the next since 2003. 

[deadastronaut]

sandwich/clamp it between 2 small clear plastic pieces....old tupperware tub whatever..

then drill a small hole, get bigger ?...just thinking aloud.

[digi2t]

So you're dealing with VERY poor quality phenolic. It's probably somewhere between burnt toast, and a Ritz cracker on the dryness scale.

Using a hand drill in this situation tends to be dicey, since it's very hard to control feed, which is a critical element here. Sharp bit, and high speed are what you want here, but slow feed is critical to prevent the pressure stress that's cracking you piece. I always use a drill press (table top model), with phenolic or epoxy, but epoxy is much more tolerant in this case. I always use a small block of smooth wood behind thw hole as well, just to be sure that I don't stress the surrounding material. As soon as I see wood dust coming up, I know I'm through.

[deadastronaut]

put copper foil on some burnt toast..

[Cozybuilder]

put copper foil on some burnt toast..

Definitely easier drilling

[deadlyshart]

I'm also seeing this happen (really with any mechanical stuff done on these veroboards), but I'm also using cheap shitty phenolic ones. I'm told that epoxy ones are better, so I've ordered some.

However, and I haven't tried this yet on this veroboard, I'd bet that a dremel with a dremel drill bit (i.e., really small, fine drill grooves) would do it right. Crazy high speed etc. I'm thinking of this type of bit:

[karbomusic]

I've always used the actual Vero brand, never had a problem.

[digi2t]

I'm also seeing this happen (really with any mechanical stuff done on these veroboards), but I'm also using cheap shitty phenolic ones. I'm told that epoxy ones are better, so I've ordered some.

However, and I haven't tried this yet on this veroboard, I'd bet that a dremel with a dremel drill bit (i.e., really small, fine drill grooves) would do it right. Crazy high speed etc. I'm thinking of this type of bit:

There's a difference between "high speed", and "crazy high speed". In this case "high speed" is in context to drilling speeds, not grinding speeds. We want to drill a hole as quickly, and as efficiently as the material will allow us (let's not forget safety either people!). Phenolic, or epoxy for that matter, will cooperate fully with 1000 to 2000 RPM. With a sharp bit, and easy feed, you'll make very nice holes indeed. The important thing here is feed. With out proper, steady feed, bits will bite, and lift the piece, or the weakest part of it. This is probably what's happening in mikey's case. I'm assuming that he's drilling the corners for the stand-offs, and the corner is breaking off.

A Dremel on the other hand, operating in the ten's of thousands RPM range will offer two potential problems here; burning, and chatter. No matter how slow you feed, some form of burning will occur. The natural response here would be, "I'll just dial down the speed", but then, what would the Dremel do now, that the drill can't do? The worse case is chatter. At high speed, with brittle material, the slightest amount of chatter will blow the phenolic to bits. Kinda like the big rock that the coyote tries to hang onto, after having swallowed the whole bottle of earthquake pills.

For those not in the know of the coyote reference, enjoy...

[LightSoundGeometry]

I use the board from small bear or tayda only. i tried others like radio shack and its a mess...cheap. like you said cracks and chips..hard to cut etc. sometimes you have to fork over that extra one or two dollars to have some good materials to work with unless your super creative person who can re purpose anything like the youtube guys lol

only a 1.50 per unit

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/fr-4-3-in-x-4-in/


you dont have to have a dremel, small hand drills will chuck these bits ..as in the case of my hardware stores do not carry the right sizes.

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/drills-3-32-shank/

[EATyourGuitar]

from a business point of view, it is cheaper to tolerate chipping than to buy expensive fiberglass to destroy expensive tools. I put a piece of scrap wood under the vero. I drill copper side down. I would rather the copper falls off then have to cut through copper every time. I clean the chips up with sand paper, wire brush, water.