octave clone help - edit*now working

[LightSoundGeometry]

well, I cant get any thing on a vero to work at all..at least this time when I plug my guitar in , it goes through and plays to the amp but skips the effect ( effect not working)

Dan Armstrong green ringer from guitar FX : http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/12/dan-armstrong-green-ringer.html

I copied the picture and followed the picture to the letter -substitutions, no big caps  , but I used a 1 watt 2k2 instead  of the .25w (all I had) and the first cap is slightly larger at 630volts instead of like 160 on a mullard or something - I bought all the arts at mammoth or bigsmyth from ebay

I am not sure really how to work the DMM, but I probed around like the instructions told me to.

Q1 .77v 14mv .752mv

Q2 .24v .77mv .69mv

Q3 8.1v .21mv 3.07v

diodes share a hole and it reads .21v










I put a few pieces in the wrong spots and had to pull out and replace, but I too a knife and an exacto knife , went down the tracks and tried to clean any possible solder jumps between the tracks..I havent slept in a day now so my eyesight is blurred and blinded..i cant see right now lol


it actually might be working ..I put my amp up on full gain and break up , I can hear the slight octave down whilst barring the low E & A on the same fret - could be the mismatch in parts I was reading by doing some google search. I do have 4 different caps and an odd resistor but mathematically they are essentially the same values I was thinking

the guy who made the original post on fx has his diodes socketed and says they make the most difference I think I was reading. I think my diodes were like .75-1 a piece so they aint cheap ones lolol

maybe I need larger caps?  


Edit: nope still not working, I have a video uploading to youtube right now with more details and sounds

edit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Xfs-zAgxq0

[duck_arse]

the base of Q1 should be about 2V. check your resistance from base to V+ and base to GND (power off first!) find what's wrong around Q1, maybe that'll be the only prob.

from one of your pics, it looks like you have a butane powered hammer, is this correct? and, maybe you could use "one big part" as your build signature. (also, can you list transistor volts with the pin name, e, b, c, save confusion, especially with pnp/npn mixed and pos grounds?)

[LightSoundGeometry]

fixed and I cant believe it !!  soon as I get my 2k2 in the mail I will be gold, I had to do some rigging to get the 1watt to not short out lol  - waiting on correct parts to arrive via mail   I painted the case and added a LED finally !

[deadastronaut]

yeah you need much bigger caps..

just my 2p, i breaded the green ringer a long time back, its quite a weak effect imo

it only really kicked in around the 12th fret area....well it did for me anyway..


@DA: butane hammer..

(funny i just got a butane soldering iron (for car stuff) ...its pretty sick. 

[LightSoundGeometry]

yeah you need much bigger caps..

just my 2p, i breaded the green ringer a long time back, its quite a weak effect imo

it only really kicked in around the 12th fret area....well it did for me anyway..


@DA: butane hammer..

(funny i just got a butane soldering iron (for car stuff) ...its pretty sick.  

for sure, I am soldering with an acetylene blow torch ( I can make guitar effects and cut angle iron at same time!)  - it has a sweet spot and needs a neck pickup and the 12th fret span to work. its something you kick on dring a long blues solo to change the timbre - jimi hendrix purple haze is the quintessential example  

this guy here gives a great demonstration of how it shoudl be used

I like to say subtle instead of weak - it colors the tone enough to give it something but not change it completely - its why I am fascinated by the effect

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-4lKcrBVcQ

[LightSoundGeometry]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_EtGGZaORM

she sounds fantastic !!

[deadastronaut]

Cool...sounds authentic...