Problem with GGG a red llama

[Jmsteele187]

A few months back, I put together a red llama.  I had it working just fine, inside the enclosure.  Unfortunately, I got quite busy, and wasn't able to finish the enclosure until this past weekend.  I painted the enclosure and added a sound to light circuit with a light plate.  Now, after reassembling, it doesn't work right, and the S2L doesn't work either (I think I know what the issue is there, though).  It doesn't let all the signal through, when in bypass.  While on, it does affect the sound, but not quite the way it should, and it seems that some of the out put isn't all there, and the gain control is working more like a level control.  When I push the stop switch, it makes a popping sound that it never made before.  There is also quite a bit of hiss that wasn't there before, as well.  By the way, I thought the paint job came out pretty well, for my first time.  Aside from a little fish eye that occurred while baking (lesson learned on that one).
Here are the links to the schem and wiring diagram.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_whrl_sc.pdf
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_whrl_lo.pdf
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_whrl_pcb.pdf
Let me know if you need any other info.

[Jmsteele187]

Anyone?

[Saint Louis Toneworks]

I build red mommas as they are my favorite ..usually when it doesnt work it is because there is a cold solder joint around the IC . I found this to be from the cheap vero from certain retailers or you are not cleaning the tip of the gun and vero before installation.

since it already worked before, i am guessing a suspect piece had shaken loose from the vero and you should go back in with a hot clean tp and re flow all the connections paying more attention around the IC ..thats usually where it loose at in my experience

I usually found popping noises related to cheap power packs or over saturated power supplies/daisy chains ..could be a grounding problem, something is not properly grounded inside someplace?


edit , pcb ..but still go back and reflow all the solder connections and make sure none are touching each other .  if you email JB directly he will personally walk you through it, he is a helpful good dude.

[GGBB]

It doesn't let all the signal through, when in bypass.

That's a big red flag for shorted wires, bad connections, poor solder joints etc. You need to sort this out first, then worry about the circuit if it still has problems. Otherwise, post voltages etc. - read the Debugging page in the top menu.

[Jmsteele187]

It doesn't let all the signal through, when in bypass.

That's a big red flag for shorted wires, bad connections, poor solder joints etc. You need to sort this out first, then worry about the circuit if it still has problems. Otherwise, post voltages etc. - read the Debugging page in the top menu.

I was suspicious of some shorted wires.  Honestly, the wiring is a mess.  I want to disconnect all the wires from the jacks, pots, and switch, and clean it all up.  That will be the first thing I do, when I get home from work, if I have time.  I'll post back with my results.  As far as the S2L circuit, when I put the pcb I mistakenly mirrored everything, except the IC.  Swapping a resistor and a couple of wires should take care of that issue.

[Jmsteele187]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!  I re-wired everything and cleaned it all up.  I found that the wire from the switch to the input of the board had broken and was hanging on by a strand.  I also fixed the issue with the S2L circuit.  Now everything works perfectly.