LFO problem- different voltages 4559 v TL072?

[blackieNYC]

Tremulous lune.  Worked on the breadboard. Now it's on a pad per hole and the LFO isn't O'ing.
Voltages for pins 1,2,3 (output on 1 should be a square wave, it is not, as seen on my scope)
Rc4559p
Pin1- 1.5v
Pin2- 2.7v
Pin3- 4.7

With a tl072
Pin1- reads 1.5 until I touch pin 2 with the voltmeter probe, then it shoots up to 8.4v.
Pin2 - 2.7v
Pin3 - 4.6v
Supply is 9v, pin 4 grounding confirmed.
Neither one oscillates. I suppose the difference is the chips responding differently to the capacitance introduced by the voltmeter, but I'm hoping it's a clue. Based on the (solid, static) LED brightness, I have reason to believe that pin 1 on the 4559 does leap upwards when my probe is on pin two but unlike the 72, the voltage drops when I take the prob away.  The 72 stays at 8v. Pins for the 2nd half of the op amp vary according to which chip is in. 5,6,7 will either be 3 v or 6v or so.
With the op amp removed, I get 4.5 on 1,3,5,6,7 and .3v or so on pin2.  .3v is what my digital voltmeter reads when it isn't touching anything so essentially zero volts. Tried two of each chip.  Swapped the .01 cap btwn pins 1&2.          Any ideas?

[Kipper4]

The 4558 is the Oscillator chip. Can you verifiy if its oscillating on  pin 1. Does the indicator led flash?
The TL072 is the audio signal path.
You should be getting oscillating voltages at pin 1 and 7 on the 4558?
Check all your connections around the 4558.

[blackieNYC]

Thanks.  I've actually popped several TL072s and 4559s into the oscillator position ,(describing only the LFO above).  They worked in that circuit on the breadboard.  I don't know what the hell I've done to this thing.

[anotherjim]

072 is a different beast. V-high input impedance so more sensitive. 4558/9 are improved 741's?
Check timing capacitor. Is it 100uF in your build? That could be leaky or wrong polarity.
Not sure about op-amp pins your referring to - in schematics I've seen pins 1,2&3 are the LFO buffer, not the osc (and would all have the same voltage), but you're free to swap the amps to suit layout of course.
Anyway, whatever volts on the osc output, the timing cap should be charging or discharging towards until the volts on the - input pass the volts on the + input when is should switch output polarity.
So I suspect the timing cap charging or feedback to amp inputs has an error/fault. The behaviour when you touch the input with the DMM is like some kind of 1bit latch, which is what it is if you take away the negative feedback from the timing cap.

[blackieNYC]

Gotcha.  One of my problems is when I move from breadboard to soldering is not simply plucking that component straight off the breadboard.  The breadboard ends up having the oversized caps, the oversized pots with solid core breadboard wire, etc.   I should change that 10uf cap. Pretty sure it's not the op amp, but then again maybe the working one is on the floor somewhere.
This is built from fuzz central, which has no op amp pins. And a 10uf cap - I think 10uf is right

[Kipper4]

Take a look at the tonepad layout too.

[anotherjim]

There are versions with 100uF timing. 10uF probably better idea as higher timing resistors used for same speed so lower charge/discharge current = Less LFO tick can break through.

Your DMM on a high resistance setting can help check caps. Discharge cap by shorting it out then measure resistance. The DMM will charge it up and the resistance reading will rise as it does. A bad cap will take longer to reach infinity or never get there at all. Compare it with the cap in working one in your breadboard (a good idea to keep a working version there). DMM trick only works on caps in uF range. Lower (sub uF) values charge too fast to notice a difference, although you can still spot one that's leaking badly this way.

Also, if cap seems ok, compare resistance (chips out) between cap + and each of the 3 op-amp pins with control pots at same settings between both builds. Make sure - of cap is connected to ground too. Plenty of clues to be found