RullyWow opinions

[Fndr8875]

Has anyone used RullyWow? I made an order at like 3 am sunday night for a Pop Sizer, (DE Soda Meiser) pcb and the 4 pack 3pdt breakout boards, 15 bucks total, and it shows itll be here in like 3 days. Im soo sick of radioshack pad per hole builds, ive gotten them to work but they never last long. Plus since they went outta buisiness and sprint bought them they stock is a joke. If they had the square copper pads those arent as bad but the circle one burn up so quick. Anyway, ive been such a cheap ass, finally decided to get me a nice PCB, a red 1590 hammond box, some switch craft jacks, Clear Davies style knobs. I still went ahead with the blue 3pdts, theere is a goood seller on ebay i buy stuff from and u get 2 for 6.99 4 day shipping. Any way, There build calls for fill Caps. I know that DE uses Tantulam caps in this circuit, will there be an issue with polarity? Also, ive posted questions on here and get responses telling me to basically fig it out myself, one response was a one word post...it said read. I and good with tech stuff and work in IT, but electronics for whatever reason is just really difficult for me to under stand. Ive been messing with this stuff for a year now and still have troulbe with basics and theory, and schematics. Anyway i know there are ppl who are lazy and just wanna post and get a laid out answer and not put anything into it themselves, but there are ppl on here who desperatly want to understand stuff but are slower learners than others or have trouble understanding things. Pls be considerate everone. Isnt that what this board is for? Anyway, its gonna fell crazy to have a entire build done in like an hour, including drilling enclosure adding my graphics and wiring everything. Ill post my build if anyone is interested. I know theres a lot of Devi haters, but i think her pedals are pretty incredible, I dont get into her personal stuff. It does bother me that she basically mentored the ppl at dwarfcraft and alot of there stuff seems to be inthe same vein as hers, she @#$%ed her self, but anyway im way off topic..

[amz-fx]

Q: I know that DE uses Tantulam caps in this circuit, will there be an issue with polarity?

A: Tantalums are polarized so you should orient them according to the marking on the pcb or as shown in the instructions. If the info is lacking, we can tell you which way they go but would need some more details. I suggest that you get the materials and look them over, and then come back with your questions and we'll see what we can do to help.

Best regards, Jack

[duck_arse]

Fndr - first off, don't lose heart, and don't take it to heart. if RG takes the time to provide you with an answer, even one word, you should pay attention to that word. he certainly doesn't waste them.

are you using film caps instead of tantalum caps in your build? film caps have no polarisation to worry about, tantalum caps, as amz-fx says do have polarity, and must be observed. (they indicate the + leg, whereas aluminium electros indicate the - leg.)

if your boards are burning up, you probably need to practise your soldering or check your equipment. if you are burning cheap perf board, there is a fair chance you will also burn an expensive pcb. practise. if you are still ahving trouble, come and show us, and we might be able to tell you where/why.

and! we are always interested to see, whatever it is you end up building (or burning).

[jimilee]

Rullywow is a great guy and consults with other members / pcb makers. We've talked and I've bought several things from him including paying him to etch a rather large board for me. As far as the rest, R.G. Is the man.

[Fndr8875]

the board calls for film caps. I have standard green mylar film, poly film box, and will be getting some tantulams friday along with my other stuff for this build. There is no polarity markings on PCB bc it calls for film. ill post a pic of the build guide. Obviously im happy to have such knowledgeable ppl on this board, And most of os prob wouldnt be in this hobby if it werent for them. I was referring to a post couple days ago. But like on my first build I was confused as to how to wire in/outs  with pots involed, i understand it now but there were like 20 responses about how i should read this or refer to schematic and such when i clearly stated my eyes felt like they were gonna bleed from all the stuff i had read and diagrams i looked up and the widely varied answers from one person to the next and i still didnt get it, posted tons of pics of my build, I was just suprised no one would just offer a suggestion like your board in runs into your volume in and through the circuit and out your gain, at least in that instance Like i said if i post a question its because ive spent time researching and cannot find a clear answer, and id rather not burn up my build. I can solder fine on Radioshack PCB. I built a hyperion last week, ill include that pic to. Thanks for repsonses guys. I try to go through here and give any advice i have but most the time theres 10 responses with way better advice.

This is a pcb devi used to sell, and ive seen countless other pics of her populatied PCBs all with yellow tants on them.




Heres the rully wow PCB




Heres the hyperion i built. I doubt ill burn up a professionally built masked, tinned, and plated pcb if i can long  solder paths on radioshack boards with very thin copper pads

[amz-fx]

Fndr,

Those yellow caps on the Devi pcb look like they might all be 0.1uF ceramics, and those would not be polarized.

Best regards, Jack

[Fndr8875]

Thanks jack, well i have pretty much all caps but those, im guessing multilayer ceramic. well I got 5 40 row sip sockets coming with everything so ill just socket the caps and tryw what i got , ill look into the tantalum thing more and try to fig out the orientation.

[amz-fx]

I would just go with the MLCC and not worry about the tantalums. If you do want to try them, here is some info to get you going.

Mouser Part #: 581-TAP104M035DCS
Manufacturer: AVX





You can meaasure the dc voltage at the base and collector of each transistor and then make sure that the plus side of the cap is connected to the higher voltage.

regards, Jack

[Fndr8875]

awesome info, makes sense with ur added notations to the schematic. Ive got some on the way from tayda. I thought i read somewhere that they add noise to circuits, and Devi Evers fuzzes , well are noise makers so i guess i interpreted those yellow caps to be tantulam.

[darrenw.sparky]

Everything ive had from rully has been great, actually worked first time for me. Theyre boards are great. Be careful with where you get tantalum from. Ive had some from ting tong chinaman where the polarity was labelled wrong resulting in a small bang when powered up. Low profile electrolytic s are a good choice. Ive been building for a while and it does not pay to skimp on components.

[jubal81]

Rully layouts are outstanding. As good as it gets.
+100