Strange problem with water slide decal graphics

[steveyraff]

Hey guys.

Im probably into 3 figures when it comes to the number of pedals I've built over the last few years. I mostly sell them on on eBay. From the start I've used the same system for my cases, as it just works.

I sand and buff the cases, measure and drill, then use the same brand of car spray paint for primer and white gloss. I use the same company and the same brand for my water slide decal paper. I print my graphics on the same printer and when I apply it to my cases, I seal it all in with the same brand of clear lacquer spray. I apply several coats allowing time in between to dry.

I think I've became quite good at it now and I almost always get it right first go with no problems.

Here's the thing though. About 6 months ago I sold a pedal to a guy, and he sent me a photo of it about a month after he first got it. I was shocked to see that the graphics had became smudged and blurred beyond recognition. It looked like what would happen if a water colour painting got wet, or like when a magazine page gets wet and the colours all bleed.

It never happened before that or since, so I presumed it may have been something to do with the environment he was storing it in.

However, I built an envelope filter about 2 months ago. I have no use for it so I put it on eBay. Someone tonight emailed to say they are interested in buying it. I had left it out in my recording studio, which gets very cold at night as I do not leave any heating on in it when it's not being used. I was really annoyed that when I went to fetch it tonight, it looks very like it's starting to do the same thing. It's just starting to loose it's sharp definition. The edges of lines on the graphics are just beginning to get a little blurred. It's not that bad, but it's irritating.

Is it to do with storage temps? The only other possibility I came up with was that the printed ink wasn't dry enough before sealing it with clear coat. I just don't know. But then why would it take it weeks or months to degrade? And why when none of the others did?

Anyone else experience this?

[thermionix]

When you say lacquer, do you mean actual lacquer?

[steveyraff]

When you say lacquer, do you mean actual lacquer?

Halfords clear lacquer spray. About 3 or 4 years ago when I started I tried about half a dozen different types and then based upon the recommendation of a few people here I went for Halfords and it worked best, and has done for years now. I'm trying to figure out why these two isolated incidents occurred.

[thermionix]

Didn't know ol' Rob had gotten into the finish business.

Nitrocellulose lacquer is pretty organic, almost a living thing, and can be more susceptible to harsh environmental conditions than other finishes.  Also tends to go through changes even long after it's cured.  I don't know if this also applies to acrylic lacquer.

Case in point, a buddy of mine has a reissue '59 Les Paul (R9).  The mahogany on the neck has some amount of cherry red stain, either applied directly to the wood, or mixed into lacquer in the lower finish coats.  The whole thing has clear lacquer on top of that, including the binding.  After some months of playing, the binding on the neck started turning pink.  Somehow the warmth of the hand, or maybe skin oils or sweat, is making the red stain migrate, seemingly under the clear coat, on a fully cured factory lacquer finish.  There is also a spot on the back of the body that is turning natural mahogany color, losing it's red stain, clear coat still intact.

Don't know if that applies to what you're experiencing, maybe the cold storage conditions are partly to blame for your lacquer eating into your decal ink.  So far I tend to use enamel on pedals, but I haven't used decals, so I don't know if the two would work together or not.

[MrStab]

hi Steve,

i think Thermionix probably has the answer, something more to do with the sprays themselves, but I've had a few things happen to me which vaguely sound like what you're experiencing. Maybe there's a common element involved.

if you're using inkjet, i've found you really have to let the ink dry overnight before clear-coating the decals (themselves), else the ink can dissolve and bleed in the water. also, i've had Rustoleum clear-coat have weird blotches on it after cleaning it with water a good few days after i thought it was dry. you mentioning the temperature change and the ink drying jumped off the page to me, in any case.

FWIW Rustoleum Crystal Clear is what i use for smoothing enclosures out to apply decals, and for the decals themselves. i start with a thin coat and then go heavy (Rustoleum is forgiving like that). works well and doesn't seem to yellow. i couldn't tell you much about the ingredients or anything but maybe someone else can.