Footswitch Stereo Wiring?

[stonerbox]

Building a stereo fuzz (originally based on the BassRightFussWrong Rev2 ) to be used mainly for analog synths. However I have now run into a wall. The pedal is ready to be boxed but I do not know how to wire the footswitch for stereo. Guessing you need a 4pdt to wire it stereo, right? Any alternative ideas? Two switches is a no go and as for right now I only got a bunch of 3pdt's.

For the curious here is the BassRightFussWrong Rev2
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=86922.0

[dbp512]

You can use a 4pdt to wire a stereo bypass, but it won't have an indicator light. If you wanted to get a bit fancier, an optical bypass uses an optocoupler to accomplish the same thing with a dpdt; or a relay bypass uses a single pole momentary switch to toggle a relay (which you can stack as many as you want). I think the easiest way would be a pair of relay bypass boards that have the necessary daisy chain pads, the Uber by TH Customs comes to mind, but there are probably others.

[idy]

Relay, Opto or 4pdt with millenium bypass type LED circuit. Pretty simple add-on.

[stonerbox]

You can use a 4pdt to wire a stereo bypass, but it won't have an indicator light. If you wanted to get a bit fancier, an optical bypass uses an optocoupler to accomplish the same thing with a dpdt; or a relay bypass uses a single pole momentary switch to toggle a relay (which you can stack as many as you want). I think the easiest way would be a pair of relay bypass boards that have the necessary daisy chain pads, the Uber by TH Customs comes to mind, but there are probably others.

You really confuse me.

Edit: All I got at hand are 3dpt footswitches and 2dpt toggle switches.

[dbp512]

You really confuse me.

Edit: All I got at hand are 3dpt footswitches and 2dpt toggle switches.

Sorry, I do that. Other members here know how to explain things better. I'll try to explain the different bypass mechanisms.

First up is mechanical bypass, which uses 2 poles on a switch to route the signal to the effect or bypass it. In order to route a stereo signal, you'd need to use 4 poles on a switch. If you wanted to do this with one switch/toggle/activator, you'd need to buy one, and like idy said, you'd need to make a millennium bypass to also power an LED (google search the schematic, you'll find plenty of info on it). 
 
The next option I said is optical bypass, which uses an optocoupler (light emitting source and light-sensitive component in one chip) to bypass the effect. When you apply power to the light emitter on the opto (by say, closing a circuit using 1 pole of a switch), the resistance on the other side of the opto drops to practically 0, routing the signal indirectly. This allows you to build a circuit with a 2 pole switch, so to wire a stereo effect you'd still need a 4 pole switch, plus the optocouplers. 
 
Finally is a relay bypass, which uses a relay (electrically controlled switch) to route the signal. The premise with this, is instead of using a latching switch, you use a momentary switch to send a brief signal to a logic chip or microcontroller, which activates the relay. For this, you'd need to buy several parts (or a nicely pre-sourced kit). The benefit of this is that you can toggle any number of channels with a simple one pole switch. 
 
So it looks like no matter what you'll need to buy at least a different switch to accomplish what you want. The good news is the switches you have are used extremely often, so you they won't go to waste.

[stonerbox]

You really confuse me.

Edit: All I got at hand are 3dpt footswitches and 2dpt toggle switches.

Sorry, I do that. Other members here know how to explain things better. I'll try to explain the different bypass mechanisms.

First up is mechanical bypass, which uses 2 poles on a switch to route the signal to the effect or bypass it. In order to route a stereo signal, you'd need to use 4 poles on a switch. If you wanted to do this with one switch/toggle/activator, you'd need to buy one, and like idy said, you'd need to make a millennium bypass to also power an LED (google search the schematic, you'll find plenty of info on it). 
 
The next option I said is optical bypass, which uses an optocoupler (light emitting source and light-sensitive component in one chip) to bypass the effect. When you apply power to the light emitter on the opto (by say, closing a circuit using 1 pole of a switch), the resistance on the other side of the opto drops to practically 0, routing the signal indirectly. This allows you to build a circuit with a 2 pole switch, so to wire a stereo effect you'd still need a 4 pole switch, plus the optocouplers. 
 
Finally is a relay bypass, which uses a relay (electrically controlled switch) to route the signal. The premise with this, is instead of using a latching switch, you use a momentary switch to send a brief signal to a logic chip or microcontroller, which activates the relay. For this, you'd need to buy several parts (or a nicely pre-sourced kit). The benefit of this is that you can toggle any number of channels with a simple one pole switch. 
 
So it looks like no matter what you'll need to buy at least a different switch to accomplish what you want. The good news is the switches you have are used extremely often, so you they won't go to waste.

Thank you, that made a lot more sense to me.

I've been thinking... bad things! Wouldn't this work if I hardwired the effects two outs to the output jacks together with the bypass signals? Until I get my hands on some 4dpt's.

[R.G.]

Some basic knowledge would help. Have you read "The Ins and Outs of Bypass Switching"?

Here: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/bypass/bypass.htm

Preventing things before a pedal in the chain, which can be just a guitar, from being loaded by the input of the pedal and/or bypassing circuit when the effect is switched out is a problem. Your last proposal would leave the driving circuit loaded, and could cause treble loss when the effects are bypassed.

"True bypass" is an old solution to this problem, buy by no means the only or IMHO best solution.

There's a lot more to this than how to wire up the switch.

[stonerbox]

Some basic knowledge would help. Have you read "The Ins and Outs of Bypass Switching"?

Here: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/bypass/bypass.htm

Preventing things before a pedal in the chain, which can be just a guitar, from being loaded by the input of the pedal and/or bypassing circuit when the effect is switched out is a problem. Your last proposal would leave the driving circuit loaded, and could cause treble loss when the effects are bypassed.

"True bypass" is an old solution to this problem, buy by no means the only or IMHO best solution.

There's a lot more to this than how to wire up the switch.

Thank you for the info R.G. I do know how switches work or at least I would like to think so. But read up on stuff (again) is never a bad thing in case you missed something.
The circuit load is indeed a problem that is present but it will have to do for now.

Out of curiosity what would be your alternative to "true bypass"?

[blackieNYC]

 Geofex has some great switching ideas, and the Tone God's Wicked Switches article is good. I've used both - but for a recent stereo build I "decided" (a hasty build but just enough room for two stomps and a battery in a 1590bb) to simply put two stomps right beside each other. Each has an LED. It also gives me the ballerina-toed option of having one channel dry, which I thought might be fun.
If you know any ballerinas who could help me out with this that would be great.