Mid-Fi electronics Clari(not) issue

[Voodoo_7]

Hi Im new with vero layouts and made my first one. A Clari(not) clone. So, I finished the circuit and the led works, the signal comes through but there is no delay weirdness. just Hum and the normal signal...
I hope you guy are able to help me. like I said, I dont know much about much^^ I also had only breadboards with solderingeyes and no stripes. I connected them with wire and stuff. I also teard some of them off. But normally that shouldnt affect the circuit as long as the connections are functional. also the led went always on after i activate the Fuzz.

Thanks and Greetings, Max
ps: I read the troubleshooting threat about all the things I should post but most of them were pretty confusing so i just added some pics

[robthequiet]

Hello and welcome. So, we have something coming out but not any effect.

Two things:

1) Do you have a multimeter?

2) The circuit board could use some cleanup of any extraneous bits of wire and little bits of solder. You can use a thin tip screwdriver or thin blade to scrape between the pads to make sure that you don't have solder bridges. Careful not to leave any loose bits of material where they might make a connection where none should be.

[Ben Lyman]

Hi and welcome Max.
It looks like you have a couple 22r where there should be 22k down in the lower right corner of your board.
I also see there should be a 22k between the 100r and LED but I don't see that one at all in your board.
Have you ever seen this site? Its all perf layouts, I think they are usually accurate:
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/search?q=mid+fi+clari

[Voodoo_7]

Ok, hmm. red red black gold should be 22k. The one between 100r and the led is attached. I will measure them after work, to play it save. Yes i got a Multimeter and the cleanup is a good idea! The layout is verified, it should work like this.

[duck_arse]

also hello and welcome. also those 22R resistors.

your IC sockets are not polarised parts, but they do include a handy dandy indicator/suggestor, for when you pull your IC's outta the board (like to read the voltages we will be asking for, shortly), and want to reinsert them the right way round. both your sockets are backwards - don't pull them out, it's too much trouble, but also don't forget when you go to reinsert.

and - I'm unsure of what (+) is indicating on that vero layout, but if it is for the Kathode, your led appears to be backwards. the flat (and the anvil and cup, seen though the side) on the led body indicates cathode [unless you have tayda superbrights, in which case .....]. this is why we like to see circuit diagrams.

and, mostly, we like to see voltage measures, especially when there is a TO-92 regulator involved.

[Ben Lyman]

I see the other 22r now, I didn't notice it at first hidden by the LED. Anyway, all three of those are 22r (red, red, black, gold) probably should start by  replacing those with 22k (red, red, orange, gold) and then go from there.

[Voodoo_7]

oh, Man! you were right with the resistors. I didnt get it in the first place okay, okay. I changed the led and ordered some 22K resistors(I got poor attention -.-). So, you guys want me to measure what exactly? I never used IC before. only for some vu meter stuff.

[duck_arse]

we want you to measure and post: the supply volts and the volts on each pin of the 2 IC's. if we see something we don't like, we'll have you measuring again. (you can [power off and] pull the IC's out for these measures, and [power back on and] probe the socket pins, for added safety.)

[Voodoo_7]

alright! I will do my best. But I have to wait until I get back to the workingbench. probably on the weekend

[Voodoo_7]

I added the 22k resistors. still the same. Hum and no effect. I tried to measure the volts on the IC but I dont receive any value. I changed the IC chips. same result. I mean, I dont really know how to meqsure and which value on the Multimeter is the right one. The Datasheet also didnt help me a lot... Oh Man, Idk

[Voodoo_7]

IT WORKS! Ive overseen one cut. Now we got delay. Still Hum. But delay! I have to figuer out from where the hum comes

[Ben Lyman]

Grab an alligator clip and hook your DMM (NEG) to any secure ground point of your pedal and then start touching your DMM (POS) point to all the pins and write down the volt readings. Make sure of course to understand how these doodads are numbered, locate pin #1 and go around in a counter-clockwise circle. Do it with the pedal powered up (obviously) but with no signal running through it.

I found this discussion where a user posted readings from his working clarinot, here's the link:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/mid-fi-electronics-clarinot.html

Here's his readings: (Unverified, eh!)
==PT2399==
1. 4.92
2. 2.45
3. 0
4. 0
5. 2.18
6. 2.24
7. 1.08
8. 1.19
9. 2.46
10. 2.46
11. 2.46
12. 2.46
13. 2.46
14. 2.46
15. 2.46
16. 2.46

==LM386N-3==
1. 1.30
2. 0
3. 0
4. 0
5. 2.72
6. 7.39
7. 3.65
8. 1.30