Ok. Official Easy Vibe Debugging request

[thermionix]

extenderise?

That's just Duck Speak for "extend"...he's kinda funny like that (and 2 hours late I might add!)

He's wondering how you connected the blue trimmer on the board, because it's a different package than what the board was laid out for.

[duck_arse]

exactamundo. extenderiser. late? me?

electros are cheap, can't hurt to replace them. and - can you do another run of voltage readings on the IC socket pins, with the IC's removed, please?

here is a "way" to knock-up some vactrols real quick, might give you some insights:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=114247.msg1060069#msg1060069

[bifbangpow]

extenderise?

That's just Duck Speak for "extend"...he's kinda funny like that (and 2 hours late I might add!)

He's wondering how you connected the blue trimmer on the board, because it's a different package than what the board was laid out for.

ah well that is probably key.  I connected the blue trimmer's three prongs into the three holes right most on top... then the top center in middle, then the left most on bottom.  Not sure which is a , b, or c, .  So in short... I probably did that wrong hah.  Would love to correct it though!

[bifbangpow]

exactamundo. extenderiser. late? me?

electros are cheap, can't hurt to replace them. and - can you do another run of voltage readings on the IC socket pins, with the IC's removed, please?

here is a "way" to knock-up some vactrols real quick, might give you some insights:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=114247.msg1060069#msg1060069

1. ILl say what I just said to the Thermio... I probably put the trimmer in wrong if there is any difference visable in the photo.  The ik trimmer i bought had it's pins formed in a triangular shape. 
I used the right most pin (not sure if thats a b or c) and put it in on top, put the center pin in center (center pin being the top point of the triangle of pins) and then the left pin on bottom.  Please advise.

As for IC Chip sockets with no IC in them here ya go:

U1:  (1) 3.28   (2) 4.9    (3) 0       (4) 0   (5) 0.02   (6) 3.4   (7) 3.4    ( 8.8
U2:  (1) 7.3     (2) 7.3    (3) 7.3    (4) 0   (5) 8.3    (6) 3.3    (7) 3.4    ( 8.8
U3:  (1) 0        (2) 0       (3) 7.8    (4) 0   (5) 8.1    (6) 3.2    (7) 3.2    ( 8.8
U4:  (1) 8.4     (2) 8.4    (3) 8.4    (4) 0   (5) 7.4    (6) 3.3    (7) 3.3    ( 8.8

also new updated photos. i heatshrinked three of my LED to vactrols.... does that look ok? I sure hope so.




best photo hosting service

What do you think?

[bifbangpow]

p.s. Would this be a better solution?

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/1k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-cermet-25-turns-3296w.html

[duck_arse]

an appeal - does anyone - ANYONE - have a circuit dia with numbers on to match R.G.'s layout? please?

I don't know which is U4, but pins 1, 2, 3 should not be at/near supply. from what I can work out, all the non-supply pins of all the IC sockets should sit at or (resistor dividered) below the bias voltage, appearing at the resistor//led//led//diode string. possibly U2 is also having wrong voltages.

the trimmer you have should be OK, as the wiper is copper connected to one of the lugs on the pcb, so as long as you have the wiper to the middle pad, should be good. and yes on the tayda trimmer, it would fit [although 25 turns might be a little more resolution than you want there].

[bifbangpow]

an appeal - does anyone - ANYONE - have a circuit dia with numbers on to match R.G.'s layout? please?

I don't know which is U4, but pins 1, 2, 3 should not be at/near supply. from what I can work out, all the non-supply pins of all the IC sockets should sit at or (resistor dividered) below the bias voltage, appearing at the resistor//led//led//diode string. possibly U2 is also having wrong voltages.

the trimmer you have should be OK, as the wiper is copper connected to one of the lugs on the pcb, so as long as you have the wiper to the middle pad, should be good. and yes on the tayda trimmer, it would fit [although 25 turns might be a little more resolution than you want there].

what would cause this? I mean, what would you do from here?

[bifbangpow]

is there a point where I just blame my shitty etching job and abandon this thing?

[duck_arse]

cause it - probably etch problems. but you can use your meter on ohms/continuity [power OFF to circuit] and probe around between the (+) supply line and the empty IC sockets. there should be low ohms at the pin 8's only. (without a circuit and pin numbers to refer to, debugging the pcb is doing my head in.)

[bloxstompboxes]

Please don't throw this board out because you think it's a bad etch. I have had worse and got them working. I see a couple things. You ahve a couple pads not fully soldered. Probably not the cause but it bugs me. The other thing I notice is on the trace side, there is the printed dates and words on the bottom edge. After that is the triangular trace that jumps over a trace and pad in the middle bottom of the board. That last word printed appears to have copper above it bleeding into that trace just before it becomes the triangle. There might be something else but I am at work and that is what I see so far.

[thermionix]

Oh right here?



Yeah that's a problem, definitely shorted.  Scrape that away with your exacto.

[bifbangpow]

Oh right here?



Yeah that's a problem, definitely shorted.  Scrape that away with your exacto.

You guys are the best. 

The pads that aren't full soldered are probably the ones to any pieces i had to take out and replace one or two times... i burnt my fingers in the midst of doing this and rushed the solder.  I will correct asap.  Time to scratch that connection away and try again.

[bifbangpow]

HOw does this one look?