Require pedal genius help!

[Fancy Lime]

Hi monkey2410,

glad to hear you got it working!

For the hum: on PCB it might be a bit quieter than on breadboard. But putting it into a closed metal box will probably make a bigger difference.

Cheers,
Andy

[monkey2410]

Do you guys know if theres an easier way than this to add an L.E.D (to indicate active mode) without it having an effect on the biasing ive already done? And also if you can give me some confidence that I have drawn this 9v AC adapter connection in correctly before I start pluging it in to the mains too then that would be appreciated 

[thermionix]

Most people use the 3rd pole of a 3PDT stomp switch to turn the LED on and off.  Your new schematic has all of the positive rail going through the LED from what I can tell.  A few other issues, the "9V AC" shown going into the power jack should be 9V DC.  You have your tone control shown wired as a fixed resistor.  There's no need for switched jacks.  If you're including a battery it is common to use a stereo input jack to connect the battery negative to ground when a plug is inserted.

[monkey2410]

Hi, thanks, a few errors there i didn't notice. How is this schematic?

Is the grounding correct on the L.E.D circuit?

[thermionix]

No.  In that arrangement you're switching between "LED on"  and "entire power supply shorted to ground".  Not good!  You can use that 3rd pole as a single throw (just two of the lugs) and either switch the +V or the ground connection of the LED.

Also not a good plan to have the board power switched on and off, will make pops and weird noises when you switch between bypass and circuit on.

[monkey2410]

So this is cool then?



Yeah preferably I'd have a toggle ON/OFF but i don't have one and it would mean re-designing my enclosure to fit a switch in so I may have to just make do with the footswitch noise unfortunately 

[thermionix]

I don't think you're following me.

You would use a single footswitch, 3PDT.  Two of the poles would switch the in and out between circuit and bypass.  The 3rd pole would just be a "make or break" to complete the LED circuit.

The positive of the power supply would always be connected to the board, not switched.  The negative of the battery would go to the "ring" of a stereo input jack, so you won't drain the battery if you pull the input plug out.

There are many ways to wire the footswitch, but this is maybe the easiest to understand:



What's not shown there is the power to the board, and the stereo jack wiring.

[monkey2410]

Okay so I THINK I've corrected it this time  Let me know 



I know the - of the battery needs to be wired to the ring of a stereo jack but there isnt any stereo jack components on the Kicad I'm using so I've just wired it to earth pin of the mono for this demonstration.

[GibsonGM]

Save this document...look at "True Bypass"....

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/how-to-build-it/technical-help/switching-and-wiring/bypass-sw-options/

[thermionix]

Okay so I THINK I've corrected it this time  Let me know 



I know the - of the battery needs to be wired to the ring of a stereo jack but there isnt any stereo jack components on the Kicad I'm using so I've just wired it to earth pin of the mono for this demonstration.

There you go.  Other than the stereo/mono jack thing, that corrected the errors I was seeing.

[monkey2410]

thankyou i appreciate the help!